• Set of 4 used:                   Once
• Vehicle used:                    Mitsubishi Pajero 3.8
• Number of years used:    3+ Years
• Value for money:              5 / 5
• On-road comfort:              5 / 5
• Off-road performance:      4 / 5
• Overall Performance:        4 / 5

So it was time to go for a new set of tires for my wife's Mitsubishi Pajero and after a lot of research was in a lot of turmoil whether I should go for the Nitto Duragrapplers as tried and tested or a set of Kumho Solus KL21. Put the options to my wife and with the price point, she immediately jumped at the Kumho Solus KL21 set. I obeyed my wife and asked them to slap the Kumhos on, but deep inside I was waiting for them to fail and never thought that 3 years down the road and I would be writing a positive review on these.

Kumho tires are a Korean brand and made in Korea so it makes you think twice about your investment. I drove them now for 3 years mostly on road except for a couple of occasions when I took them off-road in the sand for a short stint and here is what I think about the Kumho Solus KL21. On road they are really quiet and offer a very comfortable ride, they have a good grip on the road in all weather conditions and so far I have not seen any inconsistent ware in these tires. They have been on for 3 years with almost 70K Kms on the clock and I recently got them inspected, they always remained very smooth and quiet on-road and I now feel confident having them on as the tire shop told me there is quite a bit of tread left on them and no cracks at all. My main concern, however, came how it does perform off-road being a highway terrain tire? The honest truth is, being my wife's car I hardly took it off-road, but for what it is worth it performed well for a couple of short stints I was talking about earlier. The straight threads of a highway terrain help them float better in the sands, and they seem light (which is a big positive mark from the off-road side for stock cars). They have served me very well for over 70,000 kms so far and I am very pleased with their overall performance. They are still smooth, quiet and comfortable on-road even at 140 kmph and gives you good control with different maneuvers.

In conclusion, I would only like to say, these are my first set of Kumho Solus KL21 on my wife's Mitsubishi Pajero and although I was not sold on these at the time of purchase these have most definitely impressed me. I am very happy to own the current set and feeling relieved that my wife had made such a great investment for the past 3 years and the remainder of the time to come. At the price point, they are very good performer on-road and very good value for money.

• Set of 4 used:                   Once
• Vehicle used:                    Jeep Commander 5.7 Hemi
• Number of years used:    3+ Years
• Value for money:              4 / 5
• On-road comfort:              5 / 5
• Off-road performance:      4 / 5
• Overall Performance:        4 / 5

Tires are one of the most important and integral part of your car. I have used Michelin Latitudes tires on my Jeep Commander 5.7 Hemi. I have loved with the utmost respect for Michelin Latitudes due to their softer side wall for extra road comfort and better sand flotation.

I was blessed to have acquired them with the car which was owned by the French Diplomat in Dubai and loved them to no ends. The only thing that has come between me and buying the Michelin Latitudes is my tight budget and these sets don't come cheap, but one thing is for sure they are worth every dime, The Michelin Latitude tires lasted me for over 3 years over  90,000 kms that includes on road and regular off-road driving every week. So I was very happy with the fact that I got these with the ride and they lasted me through the whole 3 years that I had my Jeep Commander 5.7 Hemi. Besides the price the only thing that used to bother me was to take it to the mountains, since these tires are soft they kind of loose their shape somewhat when taken to the hard surface like the mountains and there was a bit of discomfort after its first mountain adventure.

The Michelin tires are made in France so you are sure they are made with love and it gives you that added peace of mind for your investment. I drove them for 3 years in all sorts of terrain: sand, wadi, rocks and road and here is what I think about the Michelin Latitudes. On road they are really quiet and offer maximum comfortable ride due to their side walls are really soft, plus they have a reasonably good grip on the road in all weather conditions. They lasted me 3 years with total abuse off-road, they always remained very smooth and quiet on-road and I felt confident having them on, however as mentioned earlier after taking them to the rocks they became a bit uneven and started to have a negligible noise  My main concern however came how it does perform off-road being a highway terrain tire? The answer is simple, it was amazing as the straight threads of a highway terrain help them float better in the sands, and they are very light (which is a huge positive mark from off-road side for stock cars). They served me very well for over 90,000 kms and I was very pleased with their overall performance.

I have since changed my off-road vehicle from the Jeep Commander 5.7 Hemi to the Land Rover Discovery and recently to a Nissan Pathfinder. And without a doubt I would have gone for the Michelin Latitudes again if only the prices were more reasonable. I had made a couple of trips to Oman while the tires were fairly new and again after 1 year of use, they were smooth as silk, quiet and comfortable on-road even at 140 kmph and gives you good control with different maneuvers. Off-road I used to drive it normally on 15 PSI in the soft sands and it used to be amazing, the lowest I had to go down to was 12 PSI where I got stuck in some really soft sand pit and it performed well. The result was always amazing.

In conclusion I would only like to say, that although I used them only once in my life but my heart has always been with the Michelin Latitudes  If only the price was a bit more competitive with other major brand of tires I would still be using Michelin Latitudes.

Cars are precise assets and pat of the family considering the amount of money spent to acquire one. Just like the human system, cars do require some care to keep it safe and sound, cars require some care to keep it safe and going for long. The human system is taken care of by giving it nutritious food, taking it to the hospital for checkups from time to time and all sort of care just to ensure that the body is healthy. This same thing applies to the cars that we drive, they require absolute care to keep their parts functional, from the brakes, tires and all car parts that make up the car system. Therefore today I will be talking about ways car owners can take good care of their cars themselves in the simplest way ever to keeping it safe and sound and also increase it's resale value. The list includes simple steps and daily routine “Do it yourself” tips that when followed judiciously will keep car in good condition and offer lot more value back, whenever you sell.

1. Read the user manual: This is the first on my list of how to take good care of your car, because many car owners neglect this very first step. Every car is different and comes with its user manual which contains the specifications of the car and care instructions for the that specific car. By reading the manual first of all is the right step on how to start taking good care of your car.
    
2. Change engine oil regularly: Just like the human body needs food to nourish its system so also does the car engine need a good oil to keep its part in good condition. Therefore it is advised that you change your car engine oil regularly as per owners manual recommendation. Check weekly and make sure to top the oil with a good brand of engine when it is low.
    
3. Brake pad check: In time of danger, the car brakes come to rescue. This is only possible if the brake pads are good and functional, then the brake will do its work. A simple take of changing or checking on your brake pads regularly can save your life and keep car in good condition without any accidental history.
    
4. Tire care: The tire in a car need some pedicure too just the human feet do, your car can’t move an inch if the tire is not in good condition and also the brake and brake pads can’t put the car to a stop if the tires are bad. it will be a good thing to do to check on the expiring date of a tire and change it if the tread is wearing off.
    
5. The spark plug: Some car owners don’t even know a car has a plug, well now you know every car has a spark plug which is meant to be change periodically. A bad spark plug can cause the car to have issues accelerating with in a short time. Very old spark plugs should be changed to avoid engine malfunction.
    
6. Tire air pressure: It is one good thing to have a good quality tire in your car it is another thing to make sure the air pressure in the tires is what suites the car. Over air pressure in the tire of the car can cause outburst which is very fatal when the car is in motion and when there is under pressure which mostly we call flat tire, the car wouldn’t even move an inch and this will affected the wheels badly.
    
7. Grease every joint: Rust is the enemy of iron and once it steps in damage done to the car cannot be undone, but a simple step of greasing the parts that have nuts on it and some iron parts can encourage lubrication and easy movement of those parts thereby keeping the rust away.
    
8. Park your car under a shade: There is no other person excerpt the car owner can do this, even a mechanic wouldn’t always be there to park your car for you, Parking the car under a shade will prevent the heat of the sun from destroying the plastic parts of the car or even the windscreen and dashboard. If shade is not always possible, then use the car sunshade to protect the dashboard and many other plastic parts.
    
9. Battery care: The car battery is just like the heart of the engine and without it the whole car system wouldn’t work. Any problem in the battery affects mostly the electrical part of the car, the horn, lights and ignition. It is important that a car owner from time to time check the acid level of the battery and top it when necessary and also clean or check the terminals to see they are intact.
    
10. Clean always: Washing the car is part of the care to keep the car paint smooth and shiny. The cleaner a car the better it is, even if you don’t have the strength to wash the whole car kindly take it to the car wash and get the quick clean done than leaving the tons of dust on it for weeks.

• Set of 4 used:                   Twice
• Vehicle used:                    Land Discovery and Nissan Pathfinder
• Number of years used:    5+ Years
• Value for money:              5 / 5
• On-road comfort:              5 / 5
• Off-road performance:      4 / 5
• Overall Performance:        4 / 5

Tires are one of the most important and integral part of your car. I have used Michelin Latitudes tires on my Jeep Commander 5.7 Hemi and Pirelli Scorpions tire on my Land Rover Discovery. I love both these tires equally with an inch extra respect for Michelin due to their softer side wall for extra road comfort and better sand flotation.

While I was in market for tires for my Discovery, there were offer on Nitto I came across for our off-road club and to be honest Nitto tires were very competitively priced. After fair evaluation and considering my tight budget, I thought it was a good compromise to consider Nitto Dura Grappler for my Land Rover Discovery. This first set of Nitto Dura Grappler tires lasted me for 4 years for roughly 60,000 kms that includes on road and regular off-road driving every week. So in end I was very happy with this forcible compromise I have to make 4 years back due to budgetary constraints. 

The Nitto tires are made in Japan so it gives you that added peace of mind for your investment. I drove them for 4 years in all sorts of terrain: sand, wadi, rocks and road and here is what I think about the Nitto Dura Grapplers. On road they are really quiet and offer a very comfortable ride although their side walls are not as soft as Michellin, plus with the technology they call "Revolutionary Dura-Belt™ 3 Steel Belted Technology" that gives them good grip on the road in all weather conditions and avoids inconsistent ware of these tires. They lasted me 4 years with total abuse off-road, they always remained very smooth and quiet on-road and I felt confident having them on. My main concern however came how it does perform off-road being a highway terrain tire? The answer is simple, it was amazing as the straight threads of a highway terrain help them float better in the sands, although they seem a bit heavy (which is a bit negative mark from off-road side for stock cars). They served me very well for over 60,000 kms and I was very pleased with their overall performance. 

Recently I have changed my off-road vehicle from the Land Rover Discovery to a Nissan Pathfinder. And without a doubt I have got a second set of the Nitto Dura Grapplers again. I recently went to Liwa with my new set of tires, to test if they are still the same or not? The answer is mostly yes, they are still smooth, quiet and comfortable on-road even at 140 kmph and gives you good control with different maneuvers. This time however I found something different in off-road, that I have to deflate more in the sands. Instead of the 15 PSI that I used to drive it on, I had to go down to about 12 PSI. It did well for some time, but in the really soft patches the car sunk, what amazed me was that they have done something with the tire thread that pushes the car upward and takes you out of the soft stuff if you have your technique right. Even though the car would be lifted from its spot and move a bit then again bog down in the soft sand. The trip leader advised me to deflate it down to 10 PSI a couple of times, but I was hesitant to not to have a pop-out. Having to be pulled out on 2 occasions I decided to listen to my trip leader and deflated further down to 10 PSI. The result was amazing, I never got stuck again for the rest of my liwa trip, even in soft sand where it seem the car would just get stuck, I continued to push and felt the tire just found the smallest bit of traction that would keep the car moving and a lift upwards which just did the trick and did not allow the car to bog down.

In conclusion I would only like to say, these are my second set of Nitto Dura Grapplers on 2 different rides, and if I was not impressed the first time around, this time it has surprised me with a change for the better. I am very happy to own the current set and feeling relieved that I have made a great investment for the next 4 years to come.

5 tips to take care of your car during extreme UAE summers

Just imagine what all your car is facing in this scorching summer while you are sitting in its AC and enjoying the drive. You can put your cotton clothes; you can have a chilled soda but what about your car? It can’t speak but that doesn’t mean you won’t take care of her. Don’t be so tough on your car and give her the attention she needs. The way you pamper yourself to stay fit in this oppressive summer, should be the way you care for your car too. Here are 5 things that you must do to keep your car (and your wallet) happy. 

1. Check Fuel Economy
   
   If you want to make a long term contract with your present car then keep a check on its fuel returns, after all, at the end you would be looking for its fuel efficiency more than anything else. Moreover, Fuel economy check is very essential in hot summer because the weather gets very harsh on the car and mechanical parts face double the heat. Good fuel returns can be ensured by scheduling cyclic drills like changing oil filters after a specific number of months or kms, full inspection of air filters and so on. Drop in fuel economy could signal something is wrong with the engine health and you need to schedule an inspection at the earliest. 
   
   
    
2. Get Air Conditioner Serviced
   
   Although, AC is not required to run the car efficiently but the car AC is as important as any other part in summers. Without an AC, you cannot even think of driving for a few kms and that is why you should get it serviced. BUT in case you do not mind looking all sweaty and frustrated when you reach work in the morning, you can skip this step. BTW, AC is the first to get cut-off if engine has some heating issue so to save engine by running a tad cooler car computer sacrifice the AC. So if your car is not well serviced, then you might loose AC sweet cooling on any extremely hot day.
   
   
   
    
3. Check the Coolant Expansion Bottle
   
   Keep a weekly check of coolant as it should be full especially in summers. A dry coolant tank (expansion bottle) might become a problem for your car engine’s life efficiency. There is one more way of checking the coolant; if your car’s temperature is going high then be assured that it needs a refill IMMEDIATELY. Keeping a bottle of coolant is advisable when going on long road trips to save your car engine from very expensive damage. 
   
   
   
    
4. Air Pressure in tires should be checked 
   
   High temperature of atmosphere is the main cause of tire’s expansion and so checking tire pressure is one activity that you should do at least once a week unless your car has TPMS (Tire pressure monitoring sensor). Don’t consider the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall as it is generalized for all the 4-wheelers in market, rather go for the recommended tire pressure mentioned in your car owners manual or on driver door sill (when open).
   
   
   
    
5. Clean the Battery
   
   Extreme heat of summer can overcharge your car’s battery by just speeding up the chemical reaction inside the battery. The end result would be a short lifespan of the battery. So to prevent the aging of the battery at a faster pace, detach its cables and wipe off the terminals. If possible, get your battery checked from a service station and save yourself some money and headache. 
   
   
    

These 5 simple steps can ensure safety of your car during summers. The precautions mentioned above will help your car survive the heat and live longer than expected. Take care of your girl

If you like my advise, please hit the like button below and save your friends by sharing this advice.
 

Waterless Car Washing

Imagine that a hose uses 40-50 litres of water per minute. Within ten minutes, you have used 400-500 litres. With water being such a precious commodity in the desert you may ask yourself how to wash your car. It is possible to simply rub the dirt off with a cloth but in doing so, you will scratch the paint.

To wash your car without water, you will need four or five high quality microfiber cloths depending on the size of your car and a spray bottle of waterless cleaner. One bottle of cleaner should be enough to wash your car approximately 4 times, again depending on the size of the car. There are many different waterless cleaners available on the market such as Meguiars Ultimate Wash, Ecotouch WCW, Griots Spray On etc. I’ll leave it up to you to read the reviews of different products online and decide which one is right for you.

Clean the car one panel at a time, starting from the roof and work your way down. There’s no point starting at the bottom and working your way up as the cleaner will run down onto the bit you have already cleaned and you will be constantly chasing your tail.

Simply spray the waterless cleaner onto the panel you are cleaning, then use a clean towel and wipe the dirt off. Don't use so much pressure on the cloth that you rub the dirt deep into the paint and create scratches. When the piece of towel you are using becomes dirty, fold it and use a clean part until it is completely dirty, then use a new towel. When you have cleaned the panel, wipe it entirely with a clean towel to remove any leftover moisture or dirt.

Once you have finished cleaning the entire car, it helps to apply a good coat of wax. Not only will this keep a good shine to your paint but it will also help you to remove dirt next time you wash.

**DISCLAIMER** I accept no responsibility for any harm or damage caused by anyone cleaning their car. This is only a simple guide on waterless cleaning. Always use high quality products and follow the manufacturers recommended instructions. 

Car tyres in the UAE typically deteriorate faster than their tread life. Why you ask, well it’s hotter than a blacked out FJ cruiser sitting in the July sun with all the windows up, and the massage parlour business cards’ ink are etching the images on to the window.

No but seriously why, because the heat of our summer temperatures dries the tyre out, once that occurs the shoulders, where the tyres expand at higher speeds (100 kms and above) stretch at the shoulders of the tyre, and thus crack. As you have noted in summer the amount of debri on the 140km limit highways increases, mostly it is from burst tyres of trucks that are loaded to the limit of the tyre, and the trucks are perhaps using poor condition tyres. Below is a picture of a cracked tyre, if you have similar tyres then consider changing your tyres soon, using moisturizer cream does not solve the issue below...don’t ask me how I know.

So that’s probably why the RTA asks that tyres are changed every 3 years, as the ambient temperature, exposure to UV light causes premature aging of tyres and any rubber parts on a vehicles, have you noticed how infective your wipers are after a couple of weeks of the summer heat, seems like the wipers were designed to shift the dirt from the edges to your direct field of vision.

So how do I get the best possible deal in the UAE on tyres you ask, because they are expensive? Here are some tips to reduce your buying price:

1. Don’t buy from your service centre, authorised dealership, as they will charge harder than a wounded rhino. Petrol stations tyre dealers are also charging higher at times you have no choice, as you have a puncture and are incapable of changing to the spare tyre or filling with the foam, or driving at the lower speed on your run flats because you need to get to that meeting that you are already late for in typical Dubai fashion. I will assume that people are able to change a tyre on this forum, and can do this simple car ownership task in their sleep, if you can’t then LEARN NOW!
2. Buy tyre brands from the official tyre distributor of that brand, sometimes this tip can be contradicted, as the independent tyre dealers in Sharjah, Al Dhaid, Al Wagan, Madinat Zayed are lower, why, because their overheads are lower. But you don’t have the 5 hours to spare for a round trip to Madinat Zayed, as you have to get a manicure for your golf game that day. See my notes for list of popular brands that I have bought from the official dealers. I tend to prefer the dealers, as the technicians are better trained, yes that can happen in the UAE, and the equipment is in better condition...oh and the customer waiting room has a better selection of magazines, but the tea and coffee are reconstituted engine oil at best.
3. Don’t drive to the tyre shop and ask for the price, they will not offer a good discount if you are there, as they know you want to get this over with quickly, instead call them, phone calls are cheaper than crawling in traffic. And on the phone you can squeeze them on the price, the amount of squeezed discount is dependent on your background, if you are from the West, a 10% discount will probably suffice, if you are from the East you will ask if you can get the tyres for free as you have to save up for your son’s education or daughters wedding, and then work your way up the discount slabs, and you consider this is a national sport.
   Do you need to replace the same brand of tyre...the short answer NO!, you can match the size of the existing tyre, pricing depends on country of origin, so from lower to higher, China, Thailand, Korea, Japan, American, Europe. I will assume that the audience can quote their tyre dimension in at least 2 languages, if not then you need to learn this, use youtube, google and stop watching that other nonsense on youtube.
4. So if Adam Smith were a Dubai resident, and wanted to change tyres, when would he do that? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supply_and_demand Supply and demand prevail here in the city of trading. So summer presents more opportunity for tyres to combust whilst on the highway, thus putting the fear of god into them, and they all rush to the tyre dealers for some new tyres. This fact is well known by tire traders, and they know they can squeeze an extra 10-15% out of the resident. So if you check your tyres, and think that they need to be changed based on the quality image above, then do it before May, as prices will remain higher until September.
5. Do rotate your tires, keep the pressures up, infact you can increase the pressures around 3-4 psi higher on all tires than the car manufacture recommends, this will increase your fuel economy. But the car manufacturer recommends a lower pressure I hear you ask, sure they do, but to maintain a smooth ride and we really don’t need this here in the UAE as our roads are very smooth, exception is the rubble they used to surface Motorcity’s main retail stretch.

Note:  Sole Agent Tyre Dealers, use www.atninfo.com and www.yellowpages.ae to get the number.

Bridgestone: Alserkal Bridgestone or Nasser Bin Abdullatif Alserkal Est.

Yokohama: Juma Al Majid

Dunlop: Al Gurg Tyres (Dunlop Pro Shop)

Michelin: Central Trading Agency (They have Tyre Plus shops, which are expensive and have found that Michelin are cheaper at the independent shops, so buy your tyres from the independents and have them fitted at a good tyre fitting shop)

Pirelli: Al Hawai Tyre company

Continental tyres: Emirates For Universal Tyres LLC (I think, and I see that this brand is not widely used here)

Hankook: Al Dobowi Tyres

Kumho: Ideal Tyres Trading (not sure if they have fitting facility, and rely on 3rd party to fit tyres)

Cooper Tire: Renaissance Trading

BF Goodrich: Tyre Express (but maybe same as Michelin, independents are cheaper)

Toyo: Tyre Express (but maybe same as Michelin, independents are cheaper)

Thank you and I hope you make it to your work, golf game or the school run safer and a few dhirhams more in your pocket, if we bump into each other say you read my advice and found it useful, if you didn’t I don’t care.

Once your car touches the 30,000-kilometre mark, be sure that there will be some parts which need a change or at least a relook to check if they are in good condition. The coolant is one such important element which will need a change after running such a distance.  A mixture of water and antifreeze coolant, it is one element in your car which ensures that your car engine does not heat up. The engine coolant also prevents rust corrosion and anti-freeze in colder countries. 

Considering the hot and very hot climate in GCC countries, it’s important to check your engine coolant levels regularly, if possible weekly or monthly at least. Also, if you have been practicing to feed your car with water every week or so, you must have made your coolant quite weak. And because of the usage of air conditioners in the cars in Dubai, it is best to ensure that there is a good mix of coolant and water. Normally, an engine is comfortable with a 50/50 mixture of coolant and water. Also, keep the radiator flushed to prevent electrolysis due to breakdown of old coolant.

Before doing anything, please make sure that the engine is cold otherwise the pressurized system could release hot water and steam het as soon as you open the radiator cap. If you notice that your coolant has deposits in it or the original color (green/red) has changed, then it needs to be changed immediately. It also indicates that there could be a more serious problem inside the cooling system itself. A mechanic will be required to address the fault.

The coolant tank is usually located towards the front-end of the car and has a colored cap. To know whether it is time, there are Coolant testers available which are cheap and easy to use. You can go through the instruction on the package. It has enough clarity to quickly understand and diagnose. 

Some coolants can also be tested with a paper test strip. Dipping the strips into the coolant and matching the color of the strip to a chart provided with the strip allows determining its condition. 

You could also use a refractometer. Drip couple of drops on the space provided on the meter and close the cover. Once pointed to light, you can read the scale. You could also try Hydrometers, but not the bulb type, as they have been proven to be less accurate.

Coolant level can deplete if there are leaks or weak hoses, so you will have to make sure that all connections are tight and healthy. Low levels of coolant/antifreeze could indicate a leak, so you either need to visit a mechanic or use a sealant product like Prestone Head Gasket and Engine Block Repair to temporarily block the leak until you arrange a mechanic visit.

Caution: Whichever brand of coolant you choose, ensure that it is approved by the car manufacturers for the type of engine.

If you need more help, or need specific answer for any question then try the ‘Carnity Forum’ (http://carnity.com/)  or find car businesses near you with the Carnity ‘Business listing’ (http://carnity.com/business_listing) section.

There are several instruments in a car, which needs a little care from you, and it just springs back to life, just as new, irrespective of age or accidental damage. You really do not need to visit a mechanic for it. The headlights are one, which with age loses its sheen and a small caring ‘pat’ could just revive it by using the ‘Do it Yourself’ method. 

Extensive heat in GCC countries kills the outer plastic of the headlight and with exposure to sunlight, it loses its look and shine. And scratches come by default during the high speed highway drive with free sandblasting session every day. Here are some tips to make the scratches disappear and to remove the yellow shade which appears over time due to polycarbonate clouds, thanks to the UV rays that degrade the outer layer of plastic.  

1. Formula 1 Scratch Out: This Liquid rubbing compound helps in forming a clear coat on your headlight. Leave it to dry for 30 minutes and then start gently scrubbing applying little pressure in a circular pattern with a dry cloth. Once the dry paste is off, repeat the scrubbing exercise with water but more gently. This rubbing compound comes at a price of 12-15 AED in any fuel station. 
    
2. Toothpaste method: Use regular toothpaste, some towels and water. Spread the toothpaste onto the lens, spray water and dry it with the towel. It works.
    
3. Meguiar’s PlastX: This can be used for minor damages or to make the headlight get its shine back. Meguiar's PlastX is easily available in Ace hardware. You will also need Sandpaper grit depending on the severity of the damage and discoloration, but, you have to purchase few sheets of higher grit from the one you choose. So, if you purchase sandpaper with 1000 grit, you will also need to buy 1500, 2000 and 2500. To start with 1000 grit is ideal for severely yellowish lenses. You will also need a few packs of microfiber towels, a flannel cloth, a masking tape and a bucket. Use the masking tape to mask the light you choose to work with and then cut the grit papers into usable size. Soak in water for 10 minutes. Take the 1000 grit paper and sand the lens, vertically or horizontally only, not in circular motion. Keep spraying water on the lens. Now, use the microfiber cloths to dry the lens. Then use the next level of grit and sand in the opposite direction from the previous session, and repeat the process. Then use the next level of grit and repeat all over again in opposite direction. Now, use the flannel cloth and put a small bit of Meguiar's PlastX and apply on the lens firmly in circular motion and allow it to dry. After some time, use the microfiber cloth to remove it from the lens. Try this for a few more times till the clarity of the lens is evident and then remove your masking tape. Then place a good amount of PlastX on your hand and spread it over the lens and allow it to dry. With a microfiber cloth, polish the lens for one final time. Once satisfy take the before and after picture and show off to your friends of your little DIY (Do It Yourself) project over the weekend.

If you need more help, or need specific answer for any question then try the ‘Carnity Forum’ (http://carnity.com/)  or find car businesses near you with the Carnity ‘Business listing’ (http://carnity.com/business_listing) section.

Brake pedals are made to be stepped upon and when you do and it behaves in an unusual way, it is signaling damage within. Once you find the fault, replace it immediately, especially in the GCC or at least in UAE considering the weather conditions where extreme heat plays its trick on the brake discs life and normal wear and tear.

This type of behavior often called as brake pedal sagging and when you do realize that there is a problem with the most essential part of your car, check for air in your brake lines. It could be because of a leak, a loose bleeder screw or even a leaking seal on the master cylinder.

 To fix the air bubbles, you have to bleed the brakes i.e. a procedure to remove air. This can be done by starting from the master cylinder, the driver-side rear, passenger front and finally driver side front. You will need somebody who can help you with the brake pedals. When there is pressure on the brake pedal, open the open the bleeder screw and then close it immediately before the letting the pedal go, else air will get back in.

If your brakes are low, pump the brake pedal a couple of times as you drive. If it makes the car stop, you do not need a brake replacement; you need a brake adjustment or a DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid is needed. Before going for repair, consult an expert about bleeding the brakes procedures. 

On your own, you could check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. If it’s low, there's a leak and adding fluid is the only option and look for leaks thereafter. If the level is fine, check the adjustment of the rear brakes. 

A way to know if there is a leak is by how the car stops. As an example, if your car pulls to the right, the left brake has a problem. So the fluid is not being applied to the left caliper efficiently. 

If the pedal goes to the floor, it means that there is no pressure in the master cylinder and the system has a leak. If the pedal is soft and goes further than normal, it means that the brake fluid leak is somewhere in the system. If you have a grainy feeling with the pedal, then probably the brake pads are worn out and if the pedals are extremely hard, then check the brake booster.

Do not push the brake pedal to the floor while bleeding brakes. Try placing a block of wood under the pedal. It is also advised to vacuum old fluid out and replace with fresh fluid every 3 years or 60,000 kms. This helps keep debris out of the system and prevent damage to the master cylinder. 

Always check you brake discs and even if one is worn out, it could cause braking issues. 

If you need more help, or need specific answer for any question then try the ‘Carnity Forum’ (http://carnity.com/) section or find car businesses near you with the Carnity ‘Business listing’ (http://carnity.com/business_listing) section.

Brake pedal vibration generally caused by aged brake drums and very few times due to other reasons covered below. When the brake drums (aka discs), the braking component whose main job is to hold the brakes gets worn out, the vibration takes place when you stop. When you press the brakes, your car brake pad hold the brake drum slowly that is mounted inside the wheel. Brake drum have certain minimum thickness depending on each car weight and power and when this minimum thickness threshold reaches the first sign usually appears is brake pedal slight vibration while hard braking and occasionally on soft braking. If your car is equipped with an Anti-lock braking system then you should be getting an (ABS) warning that may light up when the car is vibrating. It means that you have to get the brake drums changed. If you do not have ABS, get your brakes checked immediately. 

Brake pedal vibration in some cases can also be caused due to brake pad issues; if your brake pads had frequent contact with oil, dirt, or other substances. It can also happen if the pads are damaged or having any manufacturing defects or poor quality duplicate brake pads. Another cause could be the age of brake disc. As with age, discs grab brakes unevenly, without warning cause the pedal to vibrate. It could be because of overtime wear. It is important to always replace both discs on front or back at the same time, even if one is causing harm.

Next comes the wheel alignment issue. If the car is out of alignment, pedal vibration is obvious. Non-alignment results in rapid tire wear and harm to the suspension components. To address this, get your car up to 80-100 kmph on a straight road and leave the steering wheel for a moment. See if the car immediately tries to go to the right or left. If it does, realignment is required. Also check on worn suspension components like ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings, and others, as in some cases failure of these wheel related component can cause such brake pedal vibrations.

Visual inspection by yourself of brake drum and pads (in some cars) can tell lot of first sign of fatigue and then you or your mechanic can check for advance level doubts like: cracked CV joint boot or a hairline crack on the rotors, low brake oil, master cylinder is misbehaving, brake drum is not fully placed inside the hub, drums have uneven wear that can be fixed by facing them in the lathe machine.. 

If you need more help, or need specific answer for any question then try the ‘Carnity Forum’ (http://carnity.com/) section or find car businesses near you with the Carnity ‘Business listing’ (http://carnity.com/business_listing) section.

Every car uses electricity to power up lot of devices and sensors like engine management chips, air conditioning, music systems, headlights etc. Surprisingly enough not all the electricity comes from battery as it comes from the alternator also called dynamo. Battery supplies only the first cranking power and when engine starts then the alternator takes over the electric demand. When you start your car, if you experience a delay in cranking of the engine or the headlights are dim, then there is a problem either with the battery or the alternator. The best way to find out the issue is to use a voltmeter or a multi-meter. 

When checking the alternator, you measure only the voltage, so a voltmeter is ideal; the multi-meter measures not just the voltage but other electrical properties too. 

Before checking the alternator, check the battery. It is required to start the vehicle, and spinning the alternator to keep the battery charged. So, if the battery is low, the vehicle may not start and you will not be able to check the alternator. Unlike European countries, where the weather tends to get cold and the battery is usually the culprit, in GCC the battery could be in a better state. 

To check the battery, turn off the engine before attaching the voltmeter. Connect it to the battery by placing the red end (positive) to the red battery terminal and the black one (negative) to the black terminal. If the meter shows a reading above 12.2 volts, the battery is healthy. If it is less, then you will have to recharge the battery rendering the alternator to be healthy. 

Also remember to check the connecting cables for abnormal wear - if crackled or frayed, replace them. A poor connection can cause a voltage drop reducing the flow of current through the charging circuit.

Look at the alternator gauge and an volt/amp gauge can read the alternator output. Turn on all accessories like headlights, heater or blower of the AC and see if the the gauge decreases voltage. If the voltmeter is higher when the engine is running, it means that the alternator is charging.

You can also use your ear. Try to hear the alternator when the engine is running. In case of any issue with the alternator, you can hear a weird screeching sound emanating from the front of the car.

Another way of the checking any problem with the alternator is to run the engine for a few minutes. Then turn it off and touch the alternator. If very hot, it is an indication that something is wrong. 

If the alternator is working well, your multi-meter should read somewhere in the range of 12.6 volts with the engine off and 14-15 volts when the engine is running. If voltage is below 13.5, then it is a sign that the alternator is not able to meet the battery’s charging requirements.

Try accelerating the up the engine to 2000 RPM or higher. If the voltage is too low and you are sure that all connections are well placed, then it might just be time to change the alternator.

If you need more help, or need specific answer for any question then try the ‘Carnity Forum’ (http://carnity.com/) section or find car businesses near you with the Carnity ‘Business listing’ (http://carnity.com/business_listing) section.

A good battery accepts and holds a charge. It can produce amperage close to its rated output and just needs to be recharged. While a bad one will not hold or accept charge leave along coming close to the required amperage. You just have to replace it.

A car battery life is about 3 to 5 years, so going by its life, you will need a new battery. 

A low or dead battery does not mean your battery has failed, or that it needs to be replaced. A good battery can run down for any number of reasons: somebody might have left the lights on, you have not driven enough to keep the battery fully charged. It could also be that the car has been idle with lights and music system on with engine off, that means battery was drained without getting recharged from the alternator system that works with the engine rpm. Or there is an electrical problem which is draining power from the battery while car is off: like anti-theft system, music system, bluetooth and internet connectivity.

Many auto parts stores will test your battery for free. On your own, try the load tester. If the battery voltage drops below 9.6 volts during the test, the battery is bad. If it gives a reading of 0 volts, your battery just had a short circuit. If the battery stops reaching 10.5 volts, it has a dead cell. If the battery is fully charged and the voltage is 12.4 or less, the battery is sulfated.

You could also use an electronic ‘conductance’ tester. It sends an alternating frequency signal through the battery to determine the condition of the cell plates inside the battery. Such tester gives an accurate reading.

As for the size, the stock-size battery should be ideal. In GCC conditions, a smaller battery may not fail either. A larger battery has a lot of extras - expense, toxins, weight. Increasing battery size might allow running your car, but it is not an advisable upgrade unless you really require that additional amperage to power up some special device like heavy music system with amplifier and woofer, have additional headrests DVD screens that chew lot of power and slight increase in battery output will ease the load. Upgrade the battery to max 10-15% increment only, like if OEM battery had 60 AMP so you can safely upgrade to 65-70 AMP but not higher than that without consulting proper electrician.

If you need more help, or need specific answer for any question then try the ‘Carnity Forum’ (http://carnity.com/) section or find car businesses near you with the Carnity ‘Business listing’ (http://carnity.com/business_listing) section.

Air filter as a name itself is self-explanatory; this particular part plays a vital role in your car’s engine performance and its life. And because of its seemingly ‘small’ existence in your car compared to other priority devices, it is often ignored. Giving a thrust to forget the air filter is its comparatively lower cost of replacement too.

But, if you know its ‘job profile’, you may start loving it. 

Your car engine needs air – Clean Oxygen to complete the combustion process, to power your vehicle. Given Dubai’s, UAE’s or other neighboring GCC countries humid and dusty condition, there is a challenge compared to European countries. And so the role of an air filter in GCC is much more important than say a car in Paris or in Zurich; the air has much more dust and debris, and the air filter of your car will have to be cleaned or changed at a frequency that is much more than is usually the norm. A clogged air filter will not only affect the fuel economy, but it can/will reduce performance in terms of acceleration. 

So, keep the following in mind:

1. The frequency of changing the air filter definitely varies from car to car. While the norm is to change it after 20,000 to 40,000 kilometres, if you live in sandy areas like Ras al-Khaimah or Hatta, then its best to get the filter changed after 10,000 to 20,000 kilometres. If you live in places like Dubai or Abu Dhabi, then 20,000 to 40,000 kilometres is good enough. And if you go by time, then, if your car is older than two years, you probably should get a new one now. 
    
2. An ideal rule of thumb is to change the air filter at least once a year. Also, it is a good practice to check the air filter from time to time, especially when checking the engine oil. Mainly because, the need for change of oil is driven by the same conditions as with the need for changing the filter – car periodic service.  
    
3. You can check the condition of the air filter on your own. Car owner’s manual will help you locate the air filter’s location and ‘plucking’ it out of the car requires plain common sense. In most cars, it is made of pleated paper-like material with the rubber frame. Once out, rely on visual inspection. If the filter is white, no need to change. If it is slightly dirty, even then there is no need to change. In fact, it works more efficiently. If you see only a slight layer of dirt, you just have to clean it up by blowing air or tapping it few times on the floor. However if the air filter is ‘caked’ or turned completely black or choked with dirt then you definitely need to change it immediately.

Remember, if your mechanic tells you to change the air filter every time you visit him, it is time to change him and not the filter. Thankfully, in this part of the world, cars are well maintained and the service adviser usually checks the filter when you get the car serviced.

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