Oh, and I also replaced my wheels and tyres.  So no more trash talk about the low profile slicks.  My truck now has decent footwear.  Can't wait for the next desert trip.

This is a very simple and cheap test you can do on your own car. All you need is a cheap multimeter at 40-50dhs. You can probably pick one up even cheaper online or at somewhere like dragon mart. 

I'm sure some of us have experienced a problem where you parked the car up in the morning and went back to it in the morning and it wouldn't start because of a flat battery. Why did this happen? It was working fine last night?

You should first test the battery with a proper battery discharge tester. This is a bit more expensive than a multimeter and I appreciate that most people won't have or won't buy one. 

Next thing you need to check is the functionality of your alternator. You can do this with a multimeter which is one of the tools i recommend everyone should have. Set the alternator to VDC. DC volts. Measure the battery voltage across the positive and negative terminals with the engine stopped and ignition off. It should be 12 volts give or take half a volt either way. Next, start the car and measure the voltage again using the same method. Depending on the car, you should see a voltage of 13-14 volts. If you rev the engine and see a wild fluctuation the charging regulator could be fried but this is a whole other topic.

Ok, now that you're sure that your battery and alternator are fine, let's find out why your battery is draining overnight. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and connect the negative wire on your multimeter to the negative terminal on the battery. Tape it on if you have to. Next connect the positive wire on your multimeter to the cars earth lead. Again, tape it on if you have to. 

Now turn your multimeter on. Set it to the highest possible amp setting and turn it down gradually until you get a reading on the screen. Once you see a reading, this is your battery drain. Pull the fuses out one by one and watch for the reading dropping to zero. When you pull a fuse and the reading drops, you know you have found the circuit where the problem is. Check your cars fuse diagram and see what the fuse corresponds to and you know where to start looking for the problem. 

**diaclaimer** I accept no liability for any harm or damage caused by following this guide. Always read your cars manual and consult a qualified mechanic before carrying out any repairs. 

A very good morning to all my fellow Carnity Enthusiasts. I wanted to share this simple but useful device which I had bought recently from Dragon Mart, a bit expensive, but totally worth it.

This is a power bank which can easily fit in the palm of your hand and includes all wires to connect and charge your mobile phones, laptops and more importantly start up your dead car battery. It is a bout 12000 MAH power bank that can easily start up your dead car, I have tried it twice with 2 dead cars and it works like a dream, no need to keep it charging for long. Just connect, switch it to 12Volts (it has a switch 3V, 6V and 12V for different applications), and start up your car. It sends a strong charge to the car battery and just starts it up. If fully charged it still has enough juice to charge your 3000 MAH battery completely. Forgot to mention it has a torch also, not so powerful, but useful to eliminate dark spots. Awesome device.

This is what it looks like, I like the case also, very handy and useful.

When a car engine become weak and looses power due to age or any other failing reason, it is the best to go for engine compression test to mechanically diagnose the true status of engine health. A compression test is used to determine the condition of components inside the engine cylinder such as head gasket, piston rings, valves and valve seats. 

This is a very simple test and something you can do it at home even, interpreting the results is a different matter and something we will discuss later that require bit of knowledge and set rules. 

You will need a compression tester kit which can be picked up relatively cheaply from any tool shop within 50 - 100 AED (25 USD).

Engine Compression Test

1. The first thing you need to do is to remove the fuses which supply the power to the fuel pump and injection system. You don't want fuel in the cylinders while doing this compression test. 
2. Next remove all the spark plugs, I have covered this in another how to topic here.
3. Then disconnect the wire supplying power to the coil to eliminate the risk of sparks or electric shock. 
4. Screw the threaded end of the compression tester into the spark plug hole on cylinder number 1. Screw it in by hand, reasonably tight but do not use tools or over tighten. 
5. Now hold down the throttle full and turn the engine over with the key switch. You need to turn the engine over until the reading on the tester becomes stable. I usually just turn the key and count to 5. 
6. Take a piece of paper and write down the reading on the tester. 
7. Now repeat the above process on cylinder number 2, then cylinder 3 etc until you have tested all cylinders in the engine. 

Reading the test data

As a general rule, a healthy engine should have all cylinders reading around 100 psi or more but all engines are different and a new engine will produce a higher reading than one with a few miles on it. Anything around 130 psi or above is extremely good, anything below 90 psi is verging on extremely bad. Read about your own engine and see what the averages are. 

If you are getting very low pressure readings in any one or few of the cylinders, then perform the test again, but this time pour some oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole before screwing the compression tester in. Not too much, around 10 millilitres is plenty. If the pressure readings are higher than before, this indicates that the piston rings are leaking. If the results of the test remain low, you should look towards a problem with the valves and seats. 

The results for all cylinders should be the same +/- a 10 psi. If one cylinder wildly varies from the rest, you know there is a problem with this cylinder and it will make further diagnosis easier because you know which cylinder to start looking for problems in. 

Another thing to look out for is that if 2 cylinders have a low pressure reading and these 2 cylinders are directly beside or opposite each other, it can indicate that the head gasket has blown between these 2 cylinders. 

**Disclaimer** I accept no responsibility for any harm or damage caused by anyone performing compression tests or misinterpreting results. Always consult a qualified mechanic and read the workshop manual for your car before performing any work. 

Turbocharging Basics

Turbocharging is a great way to make your engine produce more power but it is not as simple as just bolting on new manifolds and a turbo.

The purpose of adding a turbo is to force feed as much air as possible into the cylinder which means you can burn more fuel and therefore produce more horsepower. A naturally aspirated (NA) engine can only suck in a certain amount of air before the inlet valve closes, sealing the cylinder and preparing for compression. This is generally only around 60% of the cylinder volume. Even using the latest and best tuning techniques, the best you can hope to do is increase this to around 80%. Adding a turbo can increase this volumetric efficiency to around 120-150%.

Running higher amounts of boost means you can effectively have a small turbocharged 1.6 engine producing more power than a lazy big V8.

One thing to be aware of is that as you add more air and fuel, you are also effectively increasing the compression ratio. Too much compression and your engine will go bang. In order to reduce the chances of this happening, pre-boost compression must be lowered. An issue of high compression is pre-detonation, also known as pinking. This happens when the air/fuel mix has been compressed so much that it ignites on its own without a spark from the spark plugs and before the piston has finished the compression stroke. This explosion of the air/fuel mix effectively tries to push the piston in the opposite direction from which it is travelling. If you’re lucky, you will only end up with small pits and marks on the piston crown and cylinder head. If you’re unlucky, you can end up with broken connecting rods and a hole in your engine block. There are a few ways to reduce the chances of detonation such as using water/methanol injection and higher octane fuel but if you’re planning to run high levels of boost, you must reduce pre-boost compression. This can be achieved in different ways such as a rebore with wider pistons, use specially designed low compression pistons, fitting a stroker kit, using a thicker head gasket (I have also seen some people building engines using 2 head gaskets).

Direct injection technology as originally used on diesel engines has now found its way onto petrol engines. Fuel is injected later into the mix than before. This lowers temperatures and helps to deal with the pre-detonation problem.

When adding a turbo, you will have a lot more gases flowing through your engine so it will also help to do some work to the cylinder head to maximize gas flow. Polished ports, larger valves, larger exhaust manifold will all help.

Fitting of an adjustable boost controller will help you fine tune optimum pressure and timing advance.

Now that you have more air flowing into your engine, you need to pay attention to fuelling. If you don’t have enough fuel in the mix and the engine is running lean, it will be running a lot hotter than before which can result in melted pistons. This can best be managed by using an aftermarket ECU which has been specially designed for turbocharged applications. An aftermarket ECU also means a new wiring loom and new sensors so don’t forget to budget for this as well.

Before you even think about turbocharging your engine, you should research and read as much as possible about your particular engine, see what other people have done before you. Make sure your engine has a good strong block. Not every engine will be strong enough for turbocharging. There are a lot of bolt-on turbo kits on the market for a lot of cars but don’t forget, it’s not as simple as just buying the parts and bolting them on and you’re finished.

**DISCLAIMER** I accept no liability for any harm or damage caused by anyone modifying their car. Always read the workshop manual for your car and consult a qualified mechanic before starting any work.

The goal for the majority of car modifiers is to make your car accelerate harder and travel faster. This is relatively easily achievable by spending money and changing some components in the engine. There is a big temptation to just open up a catalogue and order everything but realistically, this does not always work, there are some modifications that just do not perform well together.

For example, if you have a gas flowed cylinder head and add a high lift camshaft, if the two parts are not matched correctly, you could end up with a truck load of horsepower but a torque band that is narrow and unusable. If the parts are matched correctly, you can end up with more power than the sum of the individual parts. Say a high lift camshaft gives you 10 BHP on its own and a gas flowed cylinder head gives you 10 BHP, using the correct two parts together can give you an extra 30 BHP rather than 20.

The first thing you need to understand is how a 4 stroke petrol engine works. The piston moves up and down twice during each cycle creating the 4 strokes, Suck (down), Squeeze (up), Bang (down), Blow (up). A mix of fuel and air is drawn into the engine (suck), the fuel/air mix is compressed (squeeze), the mix is ignited by the spark plugs (bang), and finally the exhaust gas is emptied from the cylinder (blow).

The second thing you need to understand is what you’re trying to achieve which is get as much of the correct mix of fuel and air into the engine as quickly as possible (more fuel & air = bigger bang = more power), compress it as much as possible and when finished, get it out of the engine as quickly as possible.

Let’s look at some modifications you can try to achieve this:

Breathing modifications

These are modifications that help your engine breathe easier, i.e. air intake and exhaust. Your car comes from the manufacturer designed to pass emission and noise regulations which can strangle your engine. One of the first modifications most people do is to ditch the factory intake and exhaust and fit uprated items. Performance/sports air filter, induction kit with nice smooth pipes and less joins to help the air flow better, performance exhaust manifold, complete removal of catalytic convertor or fitting of a less restrictive item, larger bore exhaust pipe with free flow silencers.

Internal modifications

Items such as high compression pistons (do exactly what the name suggests), forged conrods (bigger bang means bent/broken conrods which can burst through the block and ruin your engine). However, when using a big turbo/supercharger, low compression pistons are used to prevent the effects of turbo lag and to reduce the chances of ignition problems. There are also other ways to increase the compression ratio such as decking the block and skimming the cylinder head. More compression can lead to pre-detonation of the air/fuel mix (pinking) which can damage the surface of the pistons and cylinder. This can be countered by using fuel with a higher octane rating.

Cylinder head

There are many modifications you can make to the cylinder head to increase power. The internal ports within the cylinder head can be polished and channeled to allow gases to flow more freely in and out of the cylinder. Larger valves can be used, again letting gases flow faster in and out of the cylinder. The angle of the valve and seat can be changed, again having the same effect as above. The camshaft can be changed for one which opens the valves to a different height and for a different length of time.

Engine rebore

As the Americans say, there’s no replacement for displacement. An engine rebore can give you a few extra hundred CC which effectively means you have a bigger engine in a block the same size as the original engine. This will however require you to use other parts such as larger diameter pistons and rings. Not all engines are suitable for reboring, such as aluminium ones with cylinder liners but most cast iron blocks are fair game. Another way of increasing your engines CC is to use a stroker kit which consists of special crankshaft, conrods and pistons.

Crankshaft grinding/polishing

Grinding a polishing a crankshaft has the effect of making it lighter which makes it easier to turn, resulting in a freer revving engine. It is also very important to make sure that it correctly balanced which will enable you to run a higher maximum rev limit without the engine shaking itself apart.

Forced induction

Forcing more air into the cylinder by using a turbo or supercharger means you can add more fuel, giving you that bigger bang you’re looking for. Both turbos and superchargers have their own advantages and disadvantages. Turbos produce more power than superchargers but only produce it when the engine is at speed, thus creating a noticeable surge of power when the engine produces enough exhaust gas to activate the turbo. This time delay is known as lag. Whereas a turbo only produces power some of the time because it is driven by exhaust gases, a supercharger produces power all the time because it is driven by a belt and pulley system. It is very easy to change the power output of the supercharger simply by changing the pulley.

Fuelling

Because you have more air going into the cylinder, you need more fuel. This is easily achievable on older cars by simply fitting a different carburetor. It’s still pretty simple on more modern cars by adding a larger capacity fuel pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator and larger injectors. However, this is also the tricky part as you need to make sure the air/fuel ratio is perfectly balanced. If you run too lean, i.e. too much air, not enough fuel, the engine will run too hot and you can melt pistons and spark plugs. If you run too rich, i.e. too much fuel, not enough air, you will end up with black smoke from your exhaust, carbon build up on your spark plugs, carbon on the valve seats which mean they don’t close correctly.

ECU tuning

There are different ways to modify your cars ECU which can enable you to adjust things such as air/fuel ratio, spark timing, boost, and rev limits. Some ECUs and software will even allow you to add features such as launch control and run different engine maps for different situations such as one for everyday driving and one for racing. On most cars it’s relatively simple, just connect to car to a laptop with the correct software and off you go. On other cars the ECU is locked by the manufacturer. This can be overcome by using a piggyback ECU which sends false signals to the cars own ECU to allow control of the above functions. In some high performance applications where money is no object, it is possible to even throw the cars original ECU in the bin and use a special dedicated sports unit.

**DISCLAIMER** I accept no responsibility for any harm or damage caused by anyone modifying their car. This is just a simple guide on the basics of tuning. For more information on a particular topic, please ask on the forum or read a book. Always consult a qualified mechanic and read the workshop manual for your car before carrying out any work.

The quickest way to check any car engine is to give a close look at the car exhaust system through its tail pipe. In ideal condition you should not be able to see or feel the car smoke from the exhaust tail pipe, unless it's a diesel engine car that result in black smoke (normal). All petrol engine cars since last 10-15 years have been optimized to the extreme to not to pollute the environment. This resulting in most modern engines are getting very efficient and with all the current rules and regulations relating to environmental pollution, they will produce little to no smoke at all. Smoke from your exhaust can be one of the signs that your cars engine is having problems but what does it mean? Let's look at it here in more detail:

Black smoke

Black smoke indicates a rich air/fuel mix, i.e. too much fuel in the mix and not enough oxygen to burn it all. Some of the most common problems that can causes black smoke from car exhaust are:

1. Dirty/blocked air filter
2. Faulty temperature sensor 
3. Injector/s stuck open
4. Blocked fuel return line to tank
5. Faulty FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)

White smoke

White smoke is steam, caused by water/coolant entering the combustion chamber. This can be caused by:

1. Faulty head gasket
2. Cracked cylinder head
3. Cracked engine block
4. Problem with turbocharger (Only water cooled turbos)

Blue smoke

Blue smoke is caused by oil entering the combustion chamber. This can be caused by:

1. Worn valve stem oil seals
2. Worn piston rings
3. Worn cylinder walls
4. Worn turbo seals
5. PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve stuck open

Here are the few videos to help you identify the colour of your car exhaust smoke:

**DISCLAIMER** I accept no responsibility for any misdiagnosis of exhaust smoke, this is just a simple guide on some of the possible causes. Always consult a qualified mechanic and read the workshop manual for your car before attempting any repairs.

5 Signs to Change Your Transmission

Transmission (Gear box) is a mechanism in a vehicle for transmitting power from the engine to its wheels. Mechanical auto problems with transmission may cause distinct sounds as compared to the usual sound of your automobile makes but one can’t predict the condition of transmission failure by one’s sixth sense.

The only way to determine whether the transmission needs servicing, rebuilt or a replacement is by paying close attention to the way your transmission is acting (shifting).

Here are some symptoms or signs to be sure that you need to change your transmission as soon as possible.

1. Grinding or Strange Noises
   If you come across any harsh sound in manual transmission or a shaking sound in automatic transmission then just stop the car immediately and check the transmission fluid level as this is the most common problem. Get this fixed (top-up or change) as soon as possible to protect the transmission from further wear.
    
2. Problems With Shifting Gears
   If you are facing problems with shifting gears then your transmission is surely in trouble. A car requires clean transmission fluid regardless of the mode in which you are using it i.e. either manual or automatic transmission. A transmission that holds too much dirt or slurry will generate stagnant response in the transmission which will affect the vehicle’s changing gears too quickly or too late while driving. Take your car to a transmission specialist mechanic to get it service before it breaks completely. 
    
3. Surging of Automobile
   You may face surging of the vehicle if your car’s transmission is polluted with lots of dirt and slush. Due to this, your vehicle may fall backwards or forward as the dirty transmission fluid does not flow properly in the car’s transmission. This would resist the smooth operation of gears and other moving parts of the car.
    
4. Slipping of Gears
   Lack of hydraulic power is the cause of dirty transmission. For the proper functioning of gears, the transmission of the vehicle should develop the desired pressure which can’t be possible with the contaminated transmission fluid. Moreover, the dirty transmission can obstruct the flow of fluid which is responsible for creating the required pressure. Thus it is recommended to flush off the dirty transmission as soon as the problem arises.
    
5. Delay in Movement of Vehicle
   Is there any delay in the movement of your car? It should be noted that normally the car doesn’t take time to move once put into gears. Kindly keep a check on impeding or on delay of few-seconds between shifting and moving of car. If you come across the increase in delay then your car is already facing serious problems with transmission. 

It is highly recommended to change your transmission if you are facing any of the above mentioned problems. Moreover, you should take your car for a transmission service after every 30,000 to 45,000 kms depending on the fluid used for the car.

Brakes are one of the most important aspect of any vehicle, much before the engine horsepower and fancy luxury trim. If you can't stop your vehicle in time, then it's all useless to have such expensive car. Just like Engine, Tires and Suspension, brakes also required periodic servicing or replacing with new set of brake pads and/or brand disc's.

There are some obvious signs that your brakes needs service, such as the brake light appearing on the dashboard of your car or you realize that the vehicle is taking longer to stop than it needs to. In either of these cases, you should visit your expert mechanic for a brake check very soon. But do you know what are the 7 signs that might indicate a problem in the braking system?.

Here are the seven signs that will help you find out.

1. Noise: screeching, grinding noises when applying the brakes.
2. Light: brake light is well-lighted on your vehicle dashboard.
3. Pulling: vehicle pulls to one side on  braking
4. Low Pedal: brake pedal nearly touches the floor before engaging.
5. Grabbing: brakes grab at the slightest touch to the pedal.
6. Hard Pedal: should apply extreme pressure to the pedal before brakes interact.
7. Vibration: brake pedal vibrates or pulses, even under normal braking conditions

Brakes are a normal wear item on any vehicle and that they are eventually needs  to be replaced. Factors that effects the life of brakes includes driving habits, vehicle type, operating conditions and the lining material quality.

What P0170 Code Means, And How To Fix It

With knowledge comes the power to tell when a mechanic tries to rip us off, so  with these posts, I am hoping to provide Carnity members with some basic knowledge of a particular fault code to help them understand what caused a particular generic OBD II code to be set, and how the system(s)/component(s) that relate to the code work. https://carnity.com/topic/9801-how-to-scan-trouble-codes/

Definition of P0170 code - Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1)

Code P0170 is defined as  “Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1)”, with “Bank 1” referring to the side of the engine that contains cylinder #1 on engines that have two cylinder heads.  Codes that are related to fuel trim issues are rare on American and Korean cars, but common on imported European cars. Cars most affected are turbocharged petrol models in the Mercedes-Benz, Audi, BMW, and Volkswagen ranges.

What sets PO170 code

This code is set when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) cannot control or regulate the air/fuel mixture when required, or when it gets a request to adjust the fuel trim from post-catalytic converter oxygen sensors that exceeds its ability to adjust the fuel trim. Negative fuel trim means that the PCM is attempting to lean out the air/fuel mixture, and positive fuel trim means that the PCM is attempting enrich the air/fuel mixture.

Symptoms of PO170 code

Symptoms of code P0170 vary widely between applications, and sometimes the only indication of a problem is the presence of a stored code, and an illuminated CHECK ENGINE light. Other possible symptoms could include-

·         Poor acceleration or power loss

·         Hesitation at start up

·         Misfiring at start up

·         Hesitation and/or misfiring upon acceleration

·         Visible black smoke from the tail pipe upon acceleration and /or start up

·         Increased fuel consumption

Note that some symptoms, such as  over fuelling (rich running) can damage the catalytic converter(s) if the fault is not fixed.

Causes of PO170 code

The most common cause of code P0107 is oil leaking past turbocharger seals, which leads to  fouling of the mass air flow meter element. Other possible causes include-

·         Excessive oil in the inlet tract that causes short circuits in the mass airflow meter connector.

·         Cracked, split, or dislodged intake air ducting that allows unmetered air to enter the engine.

·         Oil-fouled oxygen sensors on turbocharged engines.

·         Poor quality, or mismatched after market mass airflow sensors.

·         Excessive fuel pressure caused by a defective fuel pressure regulator.

·         Low fuel pressure caused by defective a fuel pump or defective fuel pressure regulator.

·         Clogged, or dirty fuel  filter.

·         Vacuum system leaks, allowing unmetered air to enter the engine.
(Note that it is important to be sure that there are no vacuum leaks on the engine. It often happens that perfectly good MAF sensors and other components are replaced when the real problem was a vacuum leak.)

·         Damaged catalytic converters that fail to clean up the exhaust stream.

·         PCM failure is not altogether impossible, but this happens very rarely.

Basic troubleshooting steps for code P0170

NOTE #1: Diagnosing code P0107 requires that the engine be in perfect running condition. Any other codes present, and especially codes relating to crankshaft and camshaft position sensors, misfire, vacuum, catalytic converter, or fuel pressure related issues must be resolved before starting to diagnose code P0170.

NOTE #2: To diagnose code P0170, and assuming that there are no other codes present, you will need a repair manual, a code reader that can monitor live data streams, and a digital multi-meter. While it is possible to perform this diagnosis and repair on a DIY basis, it is recommended that the diagnosis and repair be performed by a competent mechanic. If you choose to do the repair yourself, proceed as follows-

NOTE #3: It is important to retest the system after each step in the repair procedure. It saves a lot of time, and it prevents the duplication of tests.

STEP 1

Record all stored fault codes and available freeze frame data for future reference. This may help you identify the cause(s) of possible intermittent faults later on. At this point, you need to determine if you have negative, or positive fuel trim condition, to save you time later on. Most code readers will indicate this.
 

Step 2

Since the most common cause of this code relates to the mass airflow meter, remove the meter from the inlet tract and inspect it for the presence of oil on the heated element wire. If oil is present, use an approved cleaner to remove the oil. Be sure to use only an approved cleaning agent to clean the element, since some cleaners will remove the special coating on some MAF sensor elements, rendering the MAF sensor useless.

NOTE #1: There is little point in replacing, or reinstalling  the  MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) if there is excessive oil in the inlet tract. Most turbocharged engines have a light oily residue in the inlet tract, and this is normal, but liquid oil in the tract means there is a serious problem somewhere. The source of the excess oil must be found and the problem should be corrected before continuing the diagnostic/repair process.

NOTE #2: Excessive oil in the inlet tract will almost certainly have damaged the oxygen sensors and catalytic converter, which means that the code will persist even after replacing the MAF sensor with an OEM part. These components must be checked/tested for functionality before proceeding with diagnosing/repairing code P0107. Refer to the manual for the correct testing procedures for oxygen sensors.

Step 3

If there is no excess oil in the inlet tract, and you have cleaned the MAF sensor element, refit the MAF sensor, but before you retest the system, perform a visual inspection of all wiring, and connectors in the circuit. Refer to the manual to determine the location, function, and color-coding of each wire.

Look for damaged, burnt, or short circuited wiring, as well as damaged, or corroded connectors. Repair or replace wiring and/or connectors as required.

Step 4

If the wiring checks out OK, or if you have replaced or repaired wiring/connectors, you need to perform reference voltage, continuity, ground, and resistance checks on the control circuit wiring.

Consult the manual on the exact values. It is important to follow the instructions in the manual exactly, and bear in mind that obtained readings must either match stated values exactly, or fall within the specified range. However, make absolutely certain that you disconnect the system from the PCM before performing continuity checks to avoid damaging the PCM or other related controllers.

These checks will pinpoint electrical issues in the control circuit wiring that may not have been visible. Repair, or  replace wiring as required. Recheck the system after repairs to confirm that all values conform to the manufacturer’s specifications.
 

Step 5

If the wiring checks out OK, you need to test the MAF sensor. To do this, connect the code reader to the system, and start the engine, but set up the code reader in such a manner that only the live data from the MAF sensor is displayed. This gives more accurate data, but it also removes distractions that could be confusing.

To interpret the data obtained, you need to consult the manual to get minimum and maximum signal voltages for the application being worked on. As air passes through the MAF sensor, the airflow generates an electric current, which the PCM uses to calculate a suitable timing and fuel delivery strategy. Therefore, as the RPM’s change, the signal voltage generated by the MAF sensor should change as well.

Some code readers will present this information in the form of a graph, which is easy to interpret. One axis of the graph will represent the engine speed, and another axis will represent the signal voltage. To test the MAF sensor, have an assistant operate the throttle to change the engine speed - this will reflect as a changing voltage on the code reader display.
 

Step 6

However, the obtained voltage readings relative to the engine speed must match the values stated in the manual exactly; if they do not, the MAF sensor is likely defective, but do not assume it is. Test the oxygen sensors for functionality, and only replace the MAF sensor if the oxygen sensors are proven to be in good working order. Consult the manual on how to test the oxygen sensors. Replace any oxygen sensors that do not comply with the manufacturer’s specification, and retest the MAF sensor.
 

Step 7

If the wiring, oxygen sensors, and catalytic converter(s) are good, but the code persists, replace the MAF sensor with an OEM part, but only if you are absolutely certain that there are no vacuum leaks present.  After market MAF sensors are often the cause of code P0170 and related codes, so avoid using aftermarket components where possible.
 

Step 8

Test drive the vehicle with the scanner connected to be able to monitor the performance of the MAF sensor. At this point it is unlikely that the code will return, but if it does return, it is possible that there is an intermittent fault present. Some intermittent faults can be extremely challenging to trace and resolve, and you may have to a allow the fault to worsen before an accurate diagnosis and definitive repair can be made.
 

Codes related to P0170

·         P0171 -  System Too Lean (Bank 1)

·         P0172 -  System Too Rich (Bank 1)

Disclaimer

WHILE ALL INFORMATION IN THIS POST IS ACCURATE, IT IS INTENDED FOR GENERAL INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. I DO NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR DAMAGES OF ANY KIND ARISING OUT OF THE USE, OR INCORRECT AND/OR IMPROPER USE OF THIS INFORMATION. ALWAYS CHECK WITH YOUR MECHANIC OR THE MANUFACTURER/DEALER OF YOUR VEHICLE  BEFORE ATTEMPTING A REPAIR BASED ON THIS INFORMATION.

How to diagnose / replace Spark plug?

Faulty spark plugs can be a major cause of poor running and poor fuel economy. They eventually wear out over time and need to be replaced. They are also a good indicator of the general condition of an engine and how it is running, i.e. if they are black and oily it could mean worn piston rings or valve stem oil seals, if they are black and sooty it indicates an over rich fuel mixture which could be a blocked air filter, a faulty temperature sensor causing the engine to over fuel or any other number of things. I have posted a picture below showing some of the most common problems here.

Thankfully, changing spark plugs is a simple task you can do it by yourself and it doesn’t take too  long. You will need a ratchet, extension bar and a spark plug socket to suit your size of plug. It is possible to use an ordinary deep wall socket but a dedicated spark plug socket is better as it has a rubber insert which clips onto the top of the plug and helps you withdraw it easily. Your motor factor/parts supplier will advise you on which plugs your car requires or check below in multiple manufacturer to be sure.

• NGK spark Plug finder
• Denso spark plug finder
• Bosch spark plug finder
• Champion spark plug finder

Pull the wires off the top of the spark plugs. Always pull them by the insulator, try not to pull the thin part of the wire or you can damage it. Always remember which order you removed them in or the car won’t run properly if they are connected in the wrong order or may not run at all. Sometimes it helps to put a bit of tape on the end of the wire and write the cylinder number on it. If the car has a coil over plug ignition system rather than ordinary wires, remove the coil packs first.

You now have access to remove the plugs. Put the socket over the end and rotate anti clockwise until the plug comes out. Be careful if the engine is warm, use gloves to hold the plugs otherwise you can burn yourself with the hot plugs.

Fit the new plugs. Before you tighten them, make sure they are on the correct threads. If you have a torque wrench, use this to tighten them. Check the workshop manual for the torque settings specific to your car, it’s probably somewhere between 10-30 Nm. If you don’t have a torque wrench, you can use an ordinary ratchet but do not over tighten them. Not only will it make them more difficult to remove next time but if damage the cylinder head you could be in for a whole world of bother, maybe having to remove the head to fix the threads. If the car has long tubes down to the spark plugs, it’s very important that you don’t just drop the plugs down the hole prior to tightening. Either push a piece of rubber pipe over the end and use it to lower them down or use the extension bar and socket to gently land them in their socket. If you drop the plugs down the tubes, you can bend the ground electrode which closes the gap and means you won’t get a proper spark.

Refit the plug wires in the same order as you removed them or refit the coil packs if you have a coil over plug system and start the car.

**DISCLAIMER** I accept no responsibility for any harm or damage cause by anyone changing their own spark plugs. This is just a simple guide. Always read the manual for your own car before attempting any repairs.

How to jump start your car when car battery dies?

A car with a flat battery can be a real pain. Maybe you left the interior light on overnight, you go to start the car to go to work in the morning but nothing happens. You haven't got time to wait to call a mechanic or breakdown service, you need to be at that important meeting. This is where it comes in handy to always have a set of jump leads in the boot. Especially in a place like Dubai where most cars are automatic and it's not possible to simply push start them. If you haven't already got a set and are going to purchase some, make sure you buy good quality ones made from heavy welding cable. Some of the cheaper, light leads can overheat, melt, short and start a fire which will only add to your misery. If you spend the money on a decent quality item, it should last you for the rest of your days.

Park both cars close to each other so the jump leads will reach both batteries without being stretched but do not let the cars touch.

Ensure both vehicles are in neutral with the handbrake on or in park if automatic. Also ensure both vehicles are switched off with the keys out of the ignition.

Check the terminals on both batteries for corrosion or damage. If there is a problem it will need to be addressed. 

Attach one end of the red lead to the positive terminal on the battery of the dead car then attach the other end to the positive terminal on the battery of the good car.

Attach one end of the black lead to the negative terminal of the battery on the good car and attach the other end to an unpainted metal part under the bonnet of the dead car such as a large bolt or engine bracket.

You're almost ready to jump start the dead car. First check that the ends of the cables are all secure and that they will not get caught in any moving parts such as fan, alternator belt etc.

Start the engine of the car with the good battery and let it run for a few minutes whilst keeping a light rev on then try to start the car with the bad battery. If it starts, all is well and good. If it doesn't, let the car with the bad battery run for another few minutes and try again. If it still doesn't work, check your connections and if it still doesn't work, you may need to change the battery or call a mechanic.

With both engines running, disconnect the leads in reverse order from which you connected them. 

If the battery in the car which was previously dead is ok, the alternator will charge it up again fairly quickly but if you're still having starting problems, you will need to address them.

**Disclaimer** I accept no responsibility for any harm or damage caused by anyone jump starting their own car. This is merely a simple guide on how to do it.

DIY: How to paint your wheels?

A fresh looking set of wheels can make a big difference when it comes time to sell your car or maybe you just fancy a change of color to make your car that little bit more unique.

As with any work involving painting, surface preparation is the most important part. Even more so than the actual painting. Runs and drips in paint etc. can be sanded and polished out but if the surface below the paint isn’t good, you’ll never achieve a good finish.

How to: With the wheels removed from the car, give them a good wash and remove as much dirt as you can. Use a wire brush if the dirt is baked on or stubborn.

If there are any really rough bits on the wheel, kerbing damage, corrosion etc. use 80 grit sandpaper to dress them down nicely. If there are large dents or scrapes, you can use some body filler to fill them up. When the body filler is dry, use some 400 grit sandpaper to make it nice and flat, the same level as the metal.

Next comes the boring part. Sand the entire surface of the wheel with 400 grit sandpaper. The purpose of this is to ‘key’ the surface. Paint only sticks to rough surfaces. If you were to paint onto the original smooth finish of the wheels, chances are that it wouldn’t last and the paint would flake off. Make sure everywhere has been keyed, in all the little nooks and crannies.

The next stage is very important. You need to make sure the surface is completely dry and free of water. Use a heat gun to dry everything nicely. If you don’t have one, a hairdryer will do just fine.

Now you need to mask the tyre with tape so that it doesn’t get covered in paint. I find that if you wipe the tyre with thinners, it helps the masking tape to stick. Also mask the tyre valve and remove the wheel centre caps if you don’t want them painted.

Now you’re ready to paint. There’s two ways you can do it, silver and cheap or different colour and slightly more expensive. I’ll explain the silver method first.

You will need two tins of silver wheel paint. This doesn’t need primer or lacquer and will pretty much stick to anything you spray it on. Shake the can before you start and spray it on in nice smooth coats. Take your time, don’t make the coats too thick or the paint may run which will cause you headaches later. You can use the heat gun on a low setting or a hairdryer between coats to help them dry out. Leave the wheels for a few hours for the paint to harden, remove the masking tape and refit to the car.

If you are painting the wheels a different colour, you will need two tins of primer. Shake the tins well and spray it on in nice light coats, using the heat gun or hairdryer on each coat. Leave the primer to harden for a few hours. This will make it easier to sand and prevent the sandpaper from clogging up then you rub it down. Rub the entire wheel surface down with 600 or 800 grit sandpaper to key the surface for the colour coat. You will need two tins of your preferred colour. Shake the tins well and spray on, again using the heat gun or hairdryer between coats. When finished, leave the wheels to dry overnight. This step is very important or the lacquer and paint may react leaving you with a terrible finish. You will need three cans of lacquer. Start with a nice light dusting of the lacquer. Leave this to dry for an hour and build up the coats. You don’t want the lacquer to dry out completely between coats as each layer will gel together and eventually form one thick layer. If you want a really nice smooth finish, it will help to leave the wheels to dry for a few days before you fit. When the lacquer is sort of dry but sticky to the touch, you can leave them out in the sun and the lacquer will bake nice and hard.

**DISCLAIMER** I accept no responsibility for any harm, damage or poor paint finish caused by people painting their own wheels. This is just a guide to show you how simple it can be.

Do it yourself: How to change your car engine oil?

Changing your car engine oil is one of the simplest jobs you can do it yourself and can save you both time and money.

Before you start you will need to make sure you have the correct engine oil, correct engine oil filter, correct tools and empty container to collect the old engine oil . Your motor factor/parts shop will advise you on these.

The first thing you need to do is run the engine for 5 minutes to warm the oil. Cold oil takes forever to drain and you'll never get it all out.

Place chocks behind the rear wheels, jack the front of the car up and support it with axle stands. Never get underneath a vehicle that isn't properly supported. You may think it will never happen to you but I personally know two people who have been crushed and killed by falling cars.

If the car has a plastic cover or metal bash plate underneath the engine, remove this. Keep the screws together in a small box, this will save them from getting kicked around the floor and being lost.

Now you're ready to remove the sump bung. Place your empty container underneath and slowly screw the bung out. Be ready to move the container to catch the stream of oil and be careful as it will be warm. Also make sure the container will be large enough to hold all the engine oil.

When the engine oil has finished draining, clean the bung, replace the copper washer (there should be one supplied with the new filter or ask your motor factor for one) and screw the bung back into the sump and tighten. Do not over tighten or you may strip the threads resulting in a leak. It's better still if you use a torque wrench but if you don't have one, it doesn't matter, just tight it nicely with reasonable hand force.

Next you need to remove the old engine oil filter. If it is a metal spin on filter, use a filter strap, chain or other filter tool to unscrew it. When you have removed it, keep it the right way up. If you turn it upside down, you will end up with oil all over your nice clean floor. Take a smear of new oil on your fingertip, rub it onto the rubber gasket on the new filter and screw the filter on. You don't need to use a tool to fit the filter, just tighten it tightly by hand. If the car has a paper cartridge type filter, remove the lid of the housing and withdraw the filter. Remove the filter from the housing and dispose of it. Clean the lid. You will notice some rubber o-rings along with your new filter, change the old ones for these and smear the new ones with some fresh oil. Fit the new filter into the lid and screw it back into the housing taking care not to over tighten it.

If your car has a plastic cover underneath, refit it. Aren't you glad you kept those screws in a little box?

Next, jack the car up again, remove the axle stands and place the car back on the ground.

Remove the oil filler cap and pour in the new oil. If you're worried about spilling, it may help to use a funnel. Unless you know the specific quantity of oil the car requires, fill a little at a time and keep checking the oil level on the dipstick until it reaches MAX. Start the car, wait 20-30 seconds and switch off. Wait a couple of minutes and check the oil level on the dipstick again. If you need more, add it but be careful not to overfill. Too much engine oil can do as much damage as too little. Start and run the car and check for leaks, there shouldn't be any if you have done everything right.

Remember to dispose of the old oil and filter responsibly. Don't dump old oil down drains, it harms the environment.

If you have everything you need to hand before you start, this should all take you around twenty minutes. Don't worry even if it takes you an hour though, it's not a race and enjoy doing something by yourself for the first time.

**DISCLAIMER** This is only a basic guide to changing oil and filter. I accept no responsibility for any damage or harm caused by anyone changing their own car engine oil. Before you start, I recommend you read about changing oil for your specific model of car as per the car owners manual. There should be plenty of information online about it. I only seek to demonstrate how easy it can be.

With knowledge comes the power to tell when a mechanic tries to rip us off, so  with these posts, I am hoping to provide Carnity members with some basic knowledge of a particular fault code to help them understand what caused a particular generic OBD II code to be set, and how the system(s)/component(s) that relate to the code work. https://carnity.com/topic/9801-how-to-scan-trouble-codes/

Definition of Generic Trouble Code P0087: "Fuel Rail/System Pressure Is Too Low"

What sets code P0087

This code is set when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) receives a signal that the pressure in the fuel rail/system is lower than what is required for the engine to start, or to run properly. The required fuel pressure varies from vehicle to vehicle, but in all cases, the fuel pressure can vary between  pre-defined upper and lower limits. Thus, when the PCM detects that the fuel pressure does not fall within the specified range, code P0087 will be set.

Symptoms of code P0087

Typical symptoms include:

·         Illuminated CHECK ENGINE, or SERVICE ENGINE SOON warning light.

·         Stored trouble code.

·         Vehicle may not start.

·         Engine may be hard to start, with long cranking periods before it starts.

·         If the engine starts, there may be some hesitation on acceleration. Note that misfire-related codes may be present in these cases.  

·         Loss of power if the engine starts. Note that in these cases, there may be other codes present along with P0087.

Causes of code P0087

Typical causes include the following, although not all may be present on all vehicles.

·         Low fuel level in the tank.

·         Defective fuel pump/fuel pump relay.

·         Clogged, or dirty fuel filter.

·         Defective fuel pressure regulator, preventing the fuel system from achieving/maintaining the required fuel pressure.

·         Defective fuel pressure sensor.

·         Short circuits in associated wiring.

·         Open circuits in associated wiring due to damage to wiring.

·         Loss of ground in the wiring circuit.

·         Corroded electrical connectors, causing bad contacts/connections.

·      Defective OEM, or aftermarket security/anti-theft/immobilising devices that could prevent the fuel pump from starting. In these cases, there may, or may not be an illuminated CHECK ENGINE light present, or there may be other, vehicle-specific  codes present along with P0087.

Basic troubleshooting steps for code P0087

NOTE: When diagnosing code P0087, it is important to be sure that the fuel gauge is working properly. Many expensive fuel pumps, relays, and even PCM’s have been replaced when the vehicle simply has run out of fuel. Also, be sure to make sure that there are no leaks in the fuel system that could affect fuel pressure.

Typically, when a mechanic investigates code P0087, he will start by doing an inspection of the relevant circuits to eliminate damaged/corroded/short circuited wiring, which he will repair before doing anything else. The next step will then typically be to-

Step 1

Record all freeze-frame data and stored codes with a scanning tool, which is a sort of “snapshot” of what happened when the fault code was set. This is an important step since it may indicate an intermittent fault, which can sometimes be very difficult to find and repair.

Step 2

Clear the code, and test the fuel system to see if the code has returned.

Step 3

If the code is still present, the mechanic’s next step will be to check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail (using a dedicated fuel pressure gauge), which he will compare with the specified value for the vehicle. At this point, the mechanic will also check for the correct system voltage at the fuel pump. If the system voltage is not within specification, or absent, the mechanic will check/replace the fuel pump relay, or repair damaged wiring found during this stage of the procedure. In some cases, the battery may have to be replaced if it is defective.

NOTE: Low battery voltages can cause some fuel pumps not to start.

Step 4

If there is enough fuel in the tank, the system voltage is within specification, and the fuel pump is found to be working properly, the mechanic will check/replace the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator before clearing the code, and retesting the system to see if the code has returned.

Step 5

If the code is still present, or the vehicle will still not start although the fuel pressure is within specification, the mechanic will test the fuel injector circuit to check for open, short circuited, or corroded wiring.

NOTE: In some cases, a vehicle can show all the symptoms of code P0087 a code relating to the fuel injectors/fuel injector circuit being present. However, this depends on the capabilities of the code reader (and its software) more than anything else does, since some cheap, or generic code readers / scanners often fail to extract some fault codes.

Step 6

If the injector circuit is OK, and the fuel pump is working, the mechanic will check the operation of the fuel pressure sensor. This check will involve checking the reference voltage (power supply) at the sensor, which is usually 5 volts for most applications. The check will also involve checking the sensor’s resistance using a special chart, called a pressure to Hertz chart. Note that it is almost impossible to diagnose a faulty sensor without this chart. The mechanic will replace the fuel pressure sensor if its resistance readings do not fall within specifications.

NOTE: This sensor converts fuel pressure into a signal voltage, which the PCM interprets as fuel pressure, which in turn is used to calculate fuel delivery (injector pulse width), and to adapt the ignition timing (among other parameters) to ensure that the engine operates efficiently. 

Step 7

If the fuel pressure sensor checks out OK, the mechanic will perform continuity/resistance/ ground checks on the wiring between the fuel pressure sensor and the PCM, making sure that the PCM is disconnected before doing so. Not disconnecting the PCM can damage it during continuity checks. If any faults are found, the mechanic will fix them at this point.

NOTE: If there is no problem with continuity or the ground, the PCM is likely to be defective, but PCM failures do not happen often, so the fault must be sought elsewhere before the PCM is replaced.

Step 8

At this point, the vehicle should start, so the mechanic will clear all fault codes, and test the vehicle with a scanner connected  to see if the code returns. This can happen if there is an intermittent fault in the wiring, so the mechanic may have to replace the affected wiring harness to ensure a reliable repair.

Codes related to P0087

P0088 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too High.

Disclaimer

WHILE ALL INFORMATION IN THIS POST IS ACCURATE, IT IS INTENDED FOR GENERAL INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. I DO NOT ACCEPT ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR DAMAGES OF ANY KIND ARISING OUT OF THE USE, OR INCORRECT AND / OR  IMPROPER USE OF THIS INFORMATION. ALWAYS CHECK WITH YOUR MECHANIC OR THE MANUFACTURER / DEALER OF YOUR VEHICLE  BEFORE ATTEMPTING A REPAIR BASED ON THIS INFORMATION.

Myth about lifetime transmission fills

There has been a lot of talk lately about “lifetime” transmission fills, so in this post I will take a closer look at this issue.

Lifetime transmission fills have destroyed thousands of transmissions all over the world, simply because transmission fluid breaks down, just like any other lubricant. More importantly though, a new transmission has a lot of relatively rough wearing surfaces, which means that the metal particles that wear off internal components eventually end up in the fluid, where they are filtered out by the transmission filter.

However, many “lifetime” transmissions do not have internal filters any more. Instead, they have fine metal mesh strainers or screens, and the problem with that is the fact that most metal wear particles are small enough to pass straight though the strainer where they can become stuck in the valve body, where they can cause hard and/or erratic shifting, or sometimes a failure to shift at all because they prevent valve shuttles in the valve body from moving freely.

That is just one of the many problems with lifetime fills. Another issue is that since many transmissions do not have proper filters, metal wear particles are allowed to circulate freely, despite the fact that almost all transmissions have two more magnets in the oil pan to “capture” floating metal particles. In practice though, there is no guarantee that any magnet will always capture all metal particles, so in effect, the metal in the fluid turns the fluid into a sort of grinding paste that causes premature wear on the clutch packs, bearings, planetary gears, and small moving parts in the valve body.

Then there is the problem of additives in the fluid that break down. Many car manufacturers claim that the fluid in their lifetime fills is fully synthetic. That may be true in some cases, but they are only telling you half of the story. The fact is that the word “synthetic” means nothing in itself, since even the best synthetic fluids do not offer enough lubrication on their own.

All synthetic lubricants need additives like friction modifiers, anti-foaming agents, and corrosion inhibitors to protect against corrosion and mechanical wear, and there is no single additive that lasts forever. ALL additives break down over time due to the effects of heat, moisture  and contact with oxygen, and while this breakdown process  takes longer to occur in transmissions than in engines,  it does happen, and when it does, it  causes problems with shifting because the fluid no longer lubricates the transmission properly.

One of the major manufacturers of transmissions, ZF, recommends that the fluid in their products be replaced every 80,000 kms, but car manufacturers have made it almost impossible to replace the fluid. It is certainly possible to replace the fluid when you start experience shifting problems, but the problem is that nobody knows how much fluid most modern transmissions take.

Measuring the amount that comes out of a transmission when you remove the oil pan is only a part of the fluid charge- the rest remains behind in the torque converter and in the valve body, so you don’t know how much fluid to put back in.

Overfilling a transmission is just as bad as under filling it, which means that unless you have diagnostic equipment with the correct software to measure the temperature of the fluid as you fill the transmission, you could accidentally destroy the transmission by overfilling it. Transmission fluid expands as it heats up, which means that a transmission must be charged with the correct amount of fluid, with the temperature of the fluid determining the exact volume of fluid required.

In most cases, this temperature is about 40⁰C, but unless you can measure this temperature accurately, you could end up over filling the transmission as easily as under filling it. A modern car transmission can take anything between 4.5 and 6 litres of fluid, but since you don’t have a dipstick to gauge the level with, you just don’t know how much, or how little fluid to put in the transmission.

So is a lifetime transmission fill a bad thing? It is absolutely a bad thing because you cannot service such a transmission, and there is a good chance that the dealers don’t know how to service a malfunctioning transmission with a lifetime fill as well. Moreover, you don’t get a lifetime guarantee to go along with the lifetime fill, so you are basically on your own when the transmission  fails if the car is not covered by a warranty- and that is a very bad thing indeed. 

Bottom line, change the transmission oil and filter every 50,000 to 60,000 kms irrespective of the car manufacturer or dealer advise of lifetime transmission fills. This is my personal advice based on burning my fingers twice by believing in the theory of lifetime transmission fills. Both the time all my internet research and consultation with top mechanics taught me this lesson.

The top 5 most common Car problems

Car not starting
The single most common car problem is the car not starting and that has series of things to check and troubleshoot before calling a recovery and sending for detail diagnose.

1. Low on fuel: If car is extremely low on fuel and fuel pump is weak and/or old it will not build enough pressure to start the car as fuel delivery is very less. To counter this, always keep fuel more than 1 quarter of a tank.
2. Dead Battery: If battery health indicator turn white, it means its dead. Green is good, empty means that battery is fully discharge and can be recharge by jump starting the car and then driving the car for more than 20 minutes to start the charge cycle. If car interior lights and headlights are dimmed then it’s a sign of weak battery that stop retaining the charge for certain cranking amps and failing to start and changing the battery is required. 
3. Choked Air filter: Check the air filter and it should look clean and free from dust and practically in a white or lighter color (depends on brand). If it’s fully clogged, choked and turn to darker color then remove it out and tap it on the floor gently couple of times to remove the dust as much as possible or use compressed air to blow the dust away. If car starts, then change the air filter asap as it’s not good to suffocate the car air delivery passage, that will burn more fuel and have difficulty in start up again very shortly.

Car wobbling or pulling on one side
Car majorly wobble due to unbalance wheels. No matter how good they were balanced in the past this problem can still occur, by simply hitting or scrubbing the pavement that removed the wheel balancing small metal strip accidentally. While balancing the wheel it is important to see Zero | Zero on both left and right side of the wheel to make sure it is 100% balance. In off-road cars, little bit of sand can get in the tire that makes similar wobbling as that sand keep rotating inside the tire. So get the tire open and remove all the sand from inside and then balance the wheels. 

Last but not least this can also happen if all 4 tires are inflated at different PSI level. Always inflate the tires as per OEM specification sticker placed on the driver door side (when open).

In some cases (not so common) car can also wobble while having a drive-train issue, axle issue or faulty suspension. These all require professional diagnose and repair accordingly.

Reason for car pulling on one side is the wheel alignment and that is totally different than balancing. Alignment is much quicker than getting all wheel balance and done faster and cheaper. Alignment will keep your car steering straight on road and also save your tire from uneven wear.

Check engine light
This one is the big Pandora box that can get on for so many minor to major reason that to list all of them here will require a separate book for each brand. However, in general “Check engine Light” comes for below most common reasons:

1. Car is due for service.
2. Fuel cap is not closed properly.
3. Crank sensor, Cam shaft sensor need replacement.
4. Faulty spark plug, HT lead (plug wire) or faulty ignition coil.
5. Engine oil level depletes due to leak or internal combustion.
6. Air filter is not set properly, or air flow meter on air filter housing got loose.
7. Issues with emission control and some of the emission component need change.

Engine Overheating
Most dangerous and often neglected that result in huge repair bills. Always keep an eye on Engine temperature gauge inside the car dashboard. STOP the car immediately if it rises even slightly and inspect the below items immediately:

1. Check the level of coolant in reservoir bottle, if low top-up immediately.
2. Check the level of coolant in the radiator (when car is cold), if low top-up immediately.
3. Check radiator fan is working in two speed: low (normal) and high (when car is hot).
4. Check if there is no leak in the radiator and neighboring big black water hoses.
5. AC fan works, when you switch on AC and shuts off when you switch off AC.

If you pay attention to above 5 points, you will save over 75% chances of your car getting overheat and save your engine. Hope you know if car engine overheat to the max ONCE, it has over 90% chances that you need either new engine or rebuild old engine that cost almost 60%-70% of the engine cost. So make sure your eyes are always glued to the engine water/coolant temperature gauge and you notice the rise in time and stop to diagnose. If in doubt, do not drive if car is overheating in idle. Period.

Screeching noise while braking
In simple words, if you hear screeching noise while braking then change the brake pad shortly as they are going to screech even more in next few days to remind you for the required maintenance. While changing brake pads, front set of pads get consumed 3 times faster than the rear ones as over 70% of the time car only uses front brake and not rear. It’s only when car is under full load or high speed hard braking engage all 4 brakes together to stop your car faster.

While at it you also should pay attention to brake disc condition, and should always get the brake disc skimmed if your brake pad change was delayed and constant metal scratching caused the serious scratches on the brake disc surface. Secondly, brake disc has certain minimum thickness and if it’s lower than the threshold thickness (mm) then it is highly advisable to change it ASAP for safe braking. Check your car repair manual or speak to service adviser to find out the minimum thickness of brake disc for your car model.

Headlight or Taillight not working
First thing to doubt when the headlight or tail light fails is the electric fuse, which is simple do-it-yourself job and replace any blown out fuses. If fuse were fine then you can check the lamp placed inside the tail light or head light and see if that is blown out, just like our house bulb it also breaks the filament after certain age. These two above steps can be simply performed by reading your car owner manual instructions.
Beyond this point to check the switches, wiring, distribution points you will need a professional assistance to carry out a thorough check with a certified car electrician.

I drive a Mercedes S class with an AMG kit and that usually means expensive tyres as suggested by Continental as they are specially made just for Mercedes, and so there goes any savings you hopeed for, as the tyres are ridiculously expensive, approx AED 12-13K for 4 tyres. I folowed their advice and got the recommended ones the first time I changed it and thought it would last me 2-3 years.

Alas I was asked to change it in less than 2 years and financially I was shocked at the thought of having to shell out another 12k.

I researched like crazy and found dealers of the same size tye but Korean make and was shocked when I heard the price. They said AED 2200. I was like so 2200 x 4 right? they said no, 2200 in total. Now you know I was shocked.

I drove to the workshop and checked out the tyres and perhaps reluctantly put on the Korean brand, Nexen inspite of many ppl telling me against it. They recommended filling Nitrogen in the tyres and I said go ahead.

I took the risk as the price was just too good. Call me a risk taker ...but the moment I drove it off, it felt smoother than my earlier branded tyres and it was Love on the asphalt and I have no worries for the past 1.5 years.