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1 hour ago, desertdude said:

What I would do is run a couple of cycles of the "getting dark soon" oil and change it every 3000kms, just because a oil is dark or opaque doesn't means it lost its capabilities, and see if it makes any difference,  A slow overtime long term flush if you will. 

Also another old mechanics trick is a 100km or so before you change your oil drop in 300 to 500ml of ATF, since ATF has much stronger detergents and it will give the internals a good wash and in such low quantity it wont effect you other oil properties. But hey do it at your own risk, I'm a known rebel and do stupid things like use diesel oil in flat tappet motors and feed water down the airtake! 

ALSO very important. Semi Sythentic oil is a crock, not because there is anything wrong with the oil but because most companies even well known ones are crooks, what one usually thinks is a semi syn blend is a 50% syn oil blended with 50% regular dino oil. But thats not the case as there is no standard as to whats qualifies as semi-syn oil. There could be as little as 10% syn oil in regular dino oil and that qualifies as semi-synthetic oil unless the % mixture is mentioned, which I don't think anyone does, 

So better to fork out a little extra and go full synthetic rather than have to deal with dubious blends. ( I know I know before anyone gets to it, I know even fully synthetic oil is formulated from a mineral oil base )

It's not. It's distilled from hydrocarbon-rich gases like methane, carbon dioxide, and others, depending on the properties the final distillate must have. Once the gases are distilled into a liquid, the additives you also find in mineral oil are added. As a practical matter though, synthetic oil is not synthetic in the sense that it does not contain hydrocarbons- it is synthetic in the sense that it is not refined from crude mineral oil. 

If you find mineral oil in oil that is labelled as fully synthetic, you are being ripped off. You are right about the blends though- there are no standards to define a mineral/synthetic oil blend, so better stick with the fully synthetic stuff. 

However, some synthetic oils cannot be mixed with anything else, not even other synthetics- if you do mix these oils, you end up with an engine full of Jello. I have the details of this somewhere- I'll look it up and post it later. 

32 minutes ago, Gaurav said:

Watch again from 11:45 - 12:26 as a bottom line and close this topic on that note - without being Einstein or a chemistry teacher.

 

Nonetheless, it helps to know a little chemistry when you deal with lubricants. 

Edited by treks

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21 minutes ago, Gaurav said:

Watch again from 11:45 - 12:26 as a bottom line and close this topic on that note - without being Einstein or a chemistry teacher.

 

I don't disagree at all ! LOL

But that would only apply IMO if you have the car from new, you buy it at 50-80-100-150k. Who knows what he previous owners have been doing. 

So just to better your chances, would do no harm to frist try to bring it into original specs and then follow the what it says in the book.. 

 

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3 hours ago, Gaurav said:

Thanks @vanhack we really need good and honest garages in Dubai, and the price you said seems pretty reasonable.

I know what you meant with Mobil 1 made in UAE or Egypt, I do read those labels but still, Mobil 1 is FAR better than ENOC / ADNOC oil in my views. Second, comes the Castrol and Shell are also good. My car behaves much better as I have tried all oil brands and also ENOC / ADNOC oils get dark too soon within 1000 kms that doesn't give you proper reading metrics if oil really needs a change or not, as I always change oil much before it's advised kms.

Doesn't oil getting dark means that its doing its job properly I.e cleaning the internals of carbon....can't say about enoc but I almost always use adnoc in my shop unless the customers specifies anything else and its good oil

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So I did an oil change at Fineway today....price on the 5W-30 gone up!!! Today I had to pay AED294.00 with 8 litres of Enoc 5W-30 and an original filter. They cleaned the air filter and topped up windscreen washer, with water....I will just squirt some dishwasher soap in there later. 

They are happy for me to bring my own oil/filter and they charge me AED60 for the labour to do so, so not bad....I can do this at home, but I always create a mess and then disposing the oil is another chore by dumping it at the petrol station oil change catches.

 

 

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On 4/19/2018 at 6:17 PM, shadow79 said:

Doesn't oil getting dark means that its doing its job properly I.e cleaning the internals of carbon....can't say about enoc but I almost always use adnoc in my shop unless the customers specifies anything else and its good oil

That is true, this is akin to complaining that when I wash my greasy hands the water in the sink is getting black! Ignoring the fact all that blackness was washed away from my hands meaning the soap is doing its job. 
 

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OMG you guys are still on for this debate without understanding the base logic that there is no variables in the scenario means it's the same car, same owner, same usage, same CLEAN engine, well-taken care since 5+ years - ENOC / ADNOC oil gets dark in 1000 kms and Mobil / Castrol / Shell get dark with its age of up to 5000 - 7000 kms.

Pajero engine.JPG

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if that picture is of your engine i guess there is a problem your oil pump is not pushing oil up till the head as its seems very dry there....

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HAHAHAH, this thread becomes a can of worms now. @shadow79 this my Pajero engine head, when opened and cleaned while doing the valve replacement by the most competent mechanic here @Barry

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Yes looks very dry. 

Here is an interesting study on various oil brands....

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/xs11-info/articles/51-consumer-reportstruth-motor-oils-july-1996.html

And some more observations from us company that specialises in oil analysis for industrial and retail customer.

://www.google.ae/amp/amp.timeinc.net/thedrive/the-hammer/12762/10000-sample-study-on-motor-oil-supports-what-consumer-reports-concluded-a-decade-ago%3fsource=dam

 

 

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100 dhs to anyone on carnity who can find an engine I built that was bad, rattles, grenaded itself, whatever. 

I work to the book, I don’t bodge things, scam people, make misdiagnoses, charge for work that didn’t need to be done unlike many mechanics in uae, no names dropped. 

I’d also like to throw this out there, Black engine oil doesn’t necessarily mean it’s cleaning the engine. A well maintained engine shouldn’t be so full of contaminants that it turns the oil black over 1,000 km or less. More often than not, it’s cheap, crappy low grade oil which turns black because it can’t handle the heat and burns and breaks down, thus not protecting the engine. There’s a little thing in chemistry called oxidisation, maybe worth reading up on. Then there’s also the issues of whatever additives are in the oil which will also break down and turn dark over time. 

If the oil is black instead of dark brown come service time, there’s a good chance the wrong oil was put in, ie not to manufacturer specs. Failing that, maybe it’s time to take a look at your rings and bores. 

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