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Do you really care which Motor Oil are you using for your thousands dirhams car?


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1 minute ago, Srikumar said:

@syedyaseer just like what desertdude said, all engine oils are multi - viscosity. So you have one viscosity reading for winter (first number) which is suffixed by 'W' and the second number which is for the summer. Those numbers donot indicate the actual viscosity but infact represent a scale for comparison between the various grades.

 

So in your case for UAE weather which never will see sub zero temperatures, you can choose either 5W-30 or 10W-30, as the summer viscosity (in this case 30) is the same for both the grades. You can decide which one to choose based on availability. Always better to put fully synthetic oil.

 

Also, referring to one of your earlier comments, I also have started buying the brand of oil that I prefer along with the original oil filter and give it to the mechanic to replace them. They charge AED 20 - 30 to do the oil replacement and I have complete peace of mind on what is going into my vehicle. It also works out to be cheaper for me as well.

@Srikumar Thank You for the detailed explanation. I may not able to self buy option at the moment as my car is under warranty for 1 year and 20K kms (whichever comes first). Once it is out of warranty, i will definitely take this route of self buy. Further can you recommend me brand or let me know the oil brand you use.  

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That is a very basic question for every car owner that unfortunately not a lot of people pay attention to, but it is not only applicable for the oil. It is applicable for anything related to the maintenance/upgrade of your car. 

For me the short answer is yes I make sure is the specific brand I want is used. 

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15 hours ago, desertdude said:

So much wrong information on this thread that I just couldn't help myself! Believe me I tried ! 

The two ratings on the oil is basically the minimum viscosity the oil will maintain in a certain temperature range. Like for example 0W-20 ( The W stands for Winter ) and the other number, 20 in this case ,a good rule of thumb is that  20 that oil will maintain certain thickness or viscosity for up to 20 C . So basically it wil not be too thick at 0C to not be able to pumped around the motor to keep it lubricated and at 20C it won't be thin enough that its not doing its job. 

Read your car manuals they recommend different grades for different temp ranges. Below I've attached a page from my manual. So if you are using 0w-20 "for all american cars" as is being suggested in peak summer time hear where temperatures are hitting close to 50C then you are asking for trouble.

And the S and C stands for S= Spark as in petrol engine C= compression as in Diesel engines. And the next letter is the grade and usually the higher the letter the better it is, specially if you have a newer car But better to check for older cars. I mean 15-20 year olds. 

http://www.driverstechnology.co.uk/oils.htm


Oil.jpg.ed4651691b49252ac404e0a8bae92bd7.jpg 

Thank you, sir, for the information and this definitely helps us to improve and update our knowledge as well.

we are all here for the same purpose. my question is if "engine oil temperature range" is the information telling us temperature range in which oil can give its optimum performance then what will be the temperature of the engine while running in which oil is in use? in the same picture the owner of the thread is mentioning to use DOT4 brake oil, well then why manufacturers always recommend using DOT3 or a mix of DOT3 and DOT4 brake oil? Do you really think you need to use Anti Freeze Coolant while living in GCC? it is mentioned over there. If you add water in Anti Freeze Coolant then what will be the purpose left for using coolant instead of using water? in recommendation it is saying use the engine oil as per your climate then should we use different oils in winters and summers? 

I seriously couldn't find less than this from this picture. please don't mind as my purpose of asking the question is not to challenge anyone's knowledge. my humble apology 

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3 hours ago, syedyaseer said:

Experts, To continue with the topic of which engine oil shall i use in my prado. I have below image clicked from my user manual. Kindly guide me which of these two spec mentioned to be used in UAE weather. Clear recommendation/suggestion(if possible with brand name too) will be much appreciated as i will not be able to digest the technical part of the same. 😄 

Engine Oil.jpg

Hi, you can buy 5W 30 or 10W 30 minmum in SM or better go for SN. while recommending the oil the manual also suggest you to choose 5W or 10W as per your temperature range however the viscosity will remain 30 for both. 

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6 hours ago, Glanz Lube said:

my question is if "engine oil temperature range" is the information telling us temperature range in which oil can give its optimum performance then what will be the temperature of the engine while running in which oil is in use?

Say Wot ??? The engine of the temperature of the engine of oil temperature........?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?
I have no clue what you just said. Could you try to be a bit more clearer?

6 hours ago, Glanz Lube said:

in the same picture the owner of the thread is mentioning to use DOT4 brake oil, well then why manufacturers always recommend using DOT3 or a mix of DOT3 and DOT4 brake oil?

NO, manufacturers don't always recommend DOT3 in fact most bigger, specially european cars mostly say ONLY DOT4. DOT4 has a higher oiling point than DOT3 so in heavier or performance orientated cars where heavy brake usage is anticipated its almost always DOT4 and now even DOT 5 or DOT 5.1 
 

6 hours ago, Glanz Lube said:

Do you really think you need to use Anti Freeze Coolant while living in GCC?

No, many a time I have run my older cars only on water, cars I was not really bothered with keeping long term or knew had aluminum heads and blocks. I kept my Series I for 8 years only on regular water with no adverse effects, because prior to selling it I opened up the entire engine for new timing chain, seals and gaskets. Had 0 corrosion in it. 

But anti freeze is not only for preventing freezing, its also a rust inhibitor as well as lubrication for your water pump and many don't know it also has a certain life and like brake fluid should be totally drained out, flushed and refilled around every 2 to 3 years, 

 

6 hours ago, Glanz Lube said:

in recommendation it is saying use the engine oil as per your climate then should we use different oils in winters and summers? 

Not in the UAE, where there is not two different types of extreme temperatures. It just goes from being really hot to mildly chilly here. So something like a __-40 should suffice year round.

And btw with an name like Glanz Lube arn't you suppose to be somekind of expert of all of this? 

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5 minutes ago, desertdude said:

Say Wot ??? The engine of the temperature of the engine of oil temperature........?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?
I have no clue what you just said. Could you try to be a bit more clearer?

NO, manufacturers don't always recommend DOT3 in fact most bigger, specially european cars mostly say ONLY DOT4. DOT4 has a higher oiling point than DOT3 so in heavier or performance orientated cars where heavy brake usage is anticipated its almost always DOT4 and now even DOT 5 or DOT 5.1 
 

No, many a time I have run my older cars only on water, cars I was not really bothered with keeping long term or knew had aluminum heads and blocks. I kept my Series I for 8 years only on regular water with no adverse effects, because prior to selling it I opened up the entire engine for new timing chain, seals and gaskets. Had 0 corrosion in it. 

But anti freeze is not only for preventing freezing, its also a rust inhibitor as well as lubrication for your water pump and many don't know it also has a certain life and like brake fluid should be totally drained out, flushed and refilled around every 2 to 3 years, 

 

Not in the UAE, where there is not two different types of extreme temperatures. It just goes from being really hot to mildly chilly here. So something like a __-40 should suffice year round.

And btw with an name like Glanz Lube arn't you suppose to be somekind of expert of all of this? 

Hi, the name like Glanz Lube is making you come forward and say that all information in this thread is wrong and false whereas I can point out many things on your knowledge. Yes, we are in this business, from manufacturing to wholesale selling(Covering Americans, European and Local) but not with this name. the only information given before your first comment was an API chart from their website and if you and to tell them that they are wrong surely they will not have time to waste on this. secondly, the DOT 3 and DOT 4 which you are mentioned especially for European cars, is not like that. I guess there is a need to know why the car needs to have higher boiling point liquid rather than giving a try to have more boiling point liquid in your car. To have coolant and not to have coolant is entirely your choice as it belongs to you. my point will remain like this that if you have to add water in the coolant then what purpose left for using coolant. -40 temperature in GCC I never experience so far may be due to my limited mobility in this region. however, you have clearly avoided the topic of required/recommended viscosity by the manufacturer. if a car manufacturer recommends to use 20 viscosity but you want to use 50 based on temperature reasoning then again it's your choice because it's your asset. 

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1 hour ago, Glanz Lube said:

Hi, the name like Glanz Lube is making you come forward and say that all information in this thread is wrong and false whereas I can point out many things on your knowledge. Yes, we are in this business, from manufacturing to wholesale selling(Covering Americans, European and Local) but not with this name. the only information given before your first comment was an API chart from their website and if you and to tell them that they are wrong surely they will not have time to waste on this. secondly, the DOT 3 and DOT 4 which you are mentioned especially for European cars, is not like that. I guess there is a need to know why the car needs to have higher boiling point liquid rather than giving a try to have more boiling point liquid in your car. To have coolant and not to have coolant is entirely your choice as it belongs to you. my point will remain like this that if you have to add water in the coolant then what purpose left for using coolant. -40 temperature in GCC I never experience so far may be due to my limited mobility in this region. however, you have clearly avoided the topic of required/recommended viscosity by the manufacturer. if a car manufacturer recommends to use 20 viscosity but you want to use 50 based on temperature reasoning then again it's your choice because it's your asset. 

Well I'm guessing you obviously didn't take the time to read my detailed response, as I said anti freeze isn't merely for the coolant not freezing during cold weather. As for brake fluid, obviously some cars have bigger engines, produce more horsepower, go faster and thus have bigger brakes and produce more heat so a dot 3 would not suffice. 

As for viscosity no where does the manufacturer recommend only to use 20, 30, 40 or whatever rated oil, there are two examples already in this thread where manufacturer recommends different rated oil for different ambient temperatures mentioned in the owners manuals. Problem is no one bothers to read the owners manual!

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3 hours ago, desertdude said:

 

No, many a time I have run my older cars only on water, cars I was not really bothered with keeping long term or knew had aluminum heads and blocks. I kept my Series I for 8 years only on regular water with no adverse effects, because prior to selling it I opened up the entire engine for new timing chain, seals and gaskets. Had 0 corrosion in it. 

 

Sorry dude, but this isn’t good practice. I primarily work on classic cars so I see the long term effects all the time. Running on water isn’t good and it does affect parts, especially aluminium parts. Unless you’re running distilled water, which I’m pretty sure you aren’t. Coolant with corrosion inhibitors does serve a purpose. If it was up to me, I wouldn’t even recommend ordinary coolant, if fill all the cars here with waterless coolant. Sure, the engine runs a bit hotter but it’s all about the boiling point. 

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31 minutes ago, Barry said:

Sorry dude, but this isn’t good practice. I primarily work on classic cars so I see the long term effects all the time. Running on water isn’t good and it does affect parts, especially aluminium parts. Unless you’re running distilled water, which I’m pretty sure you aren’t. Coolant with corrosion inhibitors does serve a purpose. If it was up to me, I wouldn’t even recommend ordinary coolant, if fill all the cars here with waterless coolant. Sure, the engine runs a bit hotter but it’s all about the boiling point. 

I know. But I just couldn't be arsed in my beaters. As I said I ran the disco 8 yearsً on ordinary tap water, ripped open the motor just before I let it go to fix all the seals and new timing gear and chain at 330k kms. Absolutely no corrosion anywhere. 

A couple of years ago I did some real looking up into Evans waterless coolant. From what I remember it really wasn't sonething great and as you mentioned it ran much hotter and something to do with the chemicals used in it. Anyways overall it wasn't something that was recommended and too great on your motor in the long run.

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