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Clunk 'tok' sound during acceleration


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3 minutes ago, GumbyAKhan said:

How does this guarantee thing work? I mean I can ask for guarantee, but if it's just a verbal thing, anyway I can't enforce it right? Just curious . 

You can tell them if the problem is not solved you not going to pay. If you do that with phone message than you have a proof. When you go there to pick your car, make a test drive if it is solved ok of it is not solved than this is their problem. 

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Just now, GumbyAKhan said:

How does this guarantee thing work? I mean I can ask for guarantee, but if it's just a verbal thing, anyway I can't enforce it right? Just curious . 

Verbally yes its more than enough to gauge mechanic's honesty and shaking them enough to do a proper job.

It works majority of the time. Fake or greedy mechanic will simply not take up your job and you will end up running 4-5 garages for the finding the real NEO.

Also dont trust your most trusted garage so easily, as businesses here have tendency to impress you first with 50 dhs job and then on second or third billing hitting the jackpot for thousands.

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Let's root for each other & watch each other grow.

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14 hours ago, Gaurav said:

Totally Agree, but sadly fake and greedy mechanic love to hide behind this "Nobody's perfect" theme and spoil the name for 20% genuinely good mechanics that fails on occasional attempt due to tricky scenarios.

If you are failing 1 or 2 out of 10 times, you are still considered good. If you fail 8 out of 10 times then either you are fake or greedy and need to learn your profession from foundation again. I ain't put my time and money for such people, charge me 50% extra but fix it in first time and that 50% extra labor will save me tons of hassle, time and unwanted parts cost.

We go to mechanics considering they are professional and "should" know what they are doing. If they also do the guesswork and pull the trigger in dark, then whats the point.

I even encountered a mechanic told me that one of my car engine cylinder is gone bad and he need to change that one cylinder. I was looking at him on his face and told him: This car doesn't have LPG cylinder.

Then there is dealership scare for brake drum change. How critical are they to be changed in this service. Sir, its very critical and if you dont change them now they will break in two pieces on the very next hard braking you might do. You don't want to break them at SZR on 120 and loose control and damage your car and end up on a hospital bed. I was like, please change it NOW. Later I googled and found OEM thickness was 6MM and mine was at 5MM and I could have drove that for next 1 year easy as 4MM was change time and 3MM is the threshold. How will you trust these guys again......?

Another dude quoted me 2000 dhs for wobbling Discovery and then after 1 day of research on car forum, I bought an original Land Rover drive shaft U-Joint for 35 dhs and labor for 50 dhs and car was perfect without any wobble. And that was a Land Rover Specialist. Im more scared from specialist now as they know all the in and out of all the known problems but love misguiding the customer for endless repair bills.

I can go whole day with my horror stories and how some people spoil the name of others that ends up spoiling the name for everyone.

Problem is majority of people take 0 intrest in thier cars and how they work, even so called petrol heads, what are the common issues with it and common ways to solve them.

30 mins on the net can save them 1000s but they just refuse to.

There are entire workshop manuals available to download and most major and popular cars have dedicated forums with a lot expertise on them. 

Most recent example I just mentioned, the car my friend had just bought. It was a Honda having never really owned one besides my first 91 civic I have no clue about them. But an hour with google told me its most likely either the main relays or cam sensor. Since relays were cheaper and easy to deal with we tried that first 25dhs worth of relays but no luck. But worth the shot anyways. Then most likely culprit was said to be the cam sensor hidden behind the timing belt cover. So a 80dhs sensor and 40mins of elbow grease to loosen then valve cover so the timing cover can cone out and then back again and now car is running perfectly. 

Now if I would have acted like idiot avg joe car owner and gone to some grease monkey I know I would have ended up with a new fuel pump, coils, plugs etc etc and car still stalling out after warming up.

Similarly my old range rover AC comp clutch wasnt engaging. AC gas was fine and AC clutch was also fine, just not getting the signal to energize. Since Im not very good with the electric side of things I went to this hot shot electrician in Rashidiya who works on porsches, ranges etc etc.

He looked and said I will have to leave the car for a week thry will have to remove the dash and fuck all what not. 

But I could tell sonething was not right in funky town. I excused myself reluctantly opened up the electronic trouble shooting side of the workshop manual and got reading. The P38 has a ridiculously complicated AC setup. So after a day of reading and looking at wiring diagrams I narrowed it down to sonething called the tertiary pressure sensors with only two wires located behind the drivers side fog light.

So I got down underneat, unplugged it. And shorted the plug with a paper clip wrapped it all nicely with electrical tape behind the bumper and lo and behold conpressor kicked back into action. And added advantage was the condesor auxliary fans would cycle on and off with the AC clutch which made the AC even more cooler and this lasted me years until I sold the car.

So a days worth of reading and 10 fils paperclip saved me potential 1000s

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Guys are you still having the tok sound in your pajero? 

 

I have gone through all what you have mentioned and paid and fixed everything else other than the main cause of the sound, until i found the source of it and fixed it 💪

 

I tried to find out in the 5 pages comments but couldn't reach if you did find the problem and managed to fix it, if still the solution needed please confirm and i will write you a detailed explanation. 

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51 minutes ago, Michael sammy said:

Guys are you still having the tok sound in your pajero? 

 

I have gone through all what you have mentioned and paid and fixed everything else other than the main cause of the sound, until i found the source of it and fixed it 💪

 

I tried to find out in the 5 pages comments but couldn't reach if you did find the problem and managed to fix it, if still the solution needed please confirm and i will write you a detailed explanation. 

How bout you write it down anyways for future reference

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15 hours ago, Gaurav said:

If you are stupid - you will consult the head technician or your capable mechanic friend.

Many maybe countless times I have called or talked or brought in technicians to brainstorm the problems I have encountered which have stomped me some even made me think what have got myself into .

if asking for help is being stupid then my friend you really have to reassess the values on which you make those assumptions

15 hours ago, Gaurav said:

buy 10-20 USD workshop manual

Where do you get those are you talking about Haynes then forget it they are as generic as my technical school books they miss many aspects which are only covered in factory service manuals

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5 hours ago, shadow79 said:

if asking for help is being stupid then my friend you really have to reassess the values on which you make those assumptions

Dont over read the things, I meant for mechanics who go wrong 8 out of 10 times and still dont ask anyone for help as stupid.

Asking for help is never stupid, that's how we all learn.

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Let's root for each other & watch each other grow.

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9 hours ago, Michael sammy said:

I shall do that Tomorrow, happy to help others. 

Hi @Michael sammy. Thanks for asking. No, the 'tok' sound still lingers. And I haven't gone to a new garage since I posted this thread. So we look forward to seeing your detailed explanation on how you solved yours. 

 

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