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I am waiting 8 weeks, to replace my transmission box..stuck in a container from Japan..

Nice helper feature @Gaurav., but nothing beats just practising doing it manually 😅👍 Some offroad modes don't lock the rear diff in 4H. Sand mode does. But then rear diff can be configured 3 ways in offroad mode in 4H, Locked at all speeds. Locked at < 40, then automatically unlock above 40kph, relock when speed drops. Unlocked at all speeds. And then save that as the new default for your custom off road mode.

@Luke K P I got a chance to see a 2km cruise mimicking our blip blip skill in Ranger Raptor, today. It's a pretty impressive feature for self-recovery without stressing to dig more. Although I am not sure why Ford decided to engage the rear diff-lock in 4H, by default. Is that kind of LSD, which activates under low speed only and becomes open diff at higher speed like in old Chevys?

Found an old Carnity post about a similar problem, suggested solution was replacement of solenoid valves:

So I visited Al Habtoor today, explained the situation to them. They did a complete inspection (test drive, OBD, etc.) and suggested that the differential is the root cause. They also ruled out wheel bearings as a cause and told me that those would make a consistent noise. Suggested repairs by them includes replacement of solenoid valve, free wheel switch and hoses. If that does not fix the problem then the actuator and all 4x4 switches need replacement. The leak in differential was a false alarm, it was some leftover WD40 from the timing belt replacement job 😅. My personal experience with Al Habtoor was a good one. They were professional and quite helpful. Have to give credit where it's due. My Pajero is still under Al Futtaim warranty (Automall purchase), so I will be visiting them to get the fixes done. I have already visited Al Futtaim Auto Care Centre twice in the past for this particular issue, both times they said "we cannot fix what we cannot observe". So I am under immense pressure of recreating the noise during test drive when I will visit them again. If the noise does not occur during test drive then I will insist on the video being proof of the problem (already tried in the past) and of course diagnosis from the official Mitsubishi Service Center Al Habtoor. @Marek @Frederic I found a post on an off-roading forum about this exact issue where people have (over) analysed this issue. I am pasting the technical explanation from that post to shed some more light on this issue: BTW while driving today I was able to turn off the noise again by switching from 2H to 4H. I will do some more research as well as tinkering and hopefully get the car to make the noise on command. That would make my life much easier when trying to explain this fault at the service centre. Would appreciate any tips to recreate this sound when I want for demonstration purposes. I will keep you guys updated. Thank you!

I hope its just a minor fix. see you on the next one

Sorry guys, my car is not ready i need to withdraw. Enjoy it.

I was thinking the same about the half-locked solenoid or actuator, but in that case it would keep showing the blinking 4x4 lights on the dash i presume ? Another thing that's bugging me is that in 2H the freewheeling clutch disconnects the front drive shaft, so the diff should not be rotating or causing noises in 2H, or am i also wrong here and there is still some kind of connection on one wheel ?

front diff grinding sound can be caused by half-locked solenoid... so he's onto something. Nonetheless the leak is also something to address (and fast) regardless of the root cause of the problem there...

Good find, finally. However front diff grinding due to low oil will be constant and not intermittent. Still double check the wheel bearing, as wheel bearing noise starts with intermittent behaviour then become all time feature if you ignore.

and THAT is something they were not able to identify at al habtoor? I mean - have they even looked under the car? does every driver in this country need to be a mechanic in order to have a reliable car?

Hi @rroker..that is good progress. If there is oil leak in the front diff why they didn’t check the oil levels across all transmission system.. must be low and could be also overdue for change which can cause such noise. I would do that before jumping to parts replacement

Thank you for the detailed replies @Srikumar, @Islam Soliman and @Gaurav. @Srikumar I do not think it is the sound of rubbing, not sure about wheel bearing sound though. I do not have the front skid plate installed and after every offroad drive the tyre did start slightly touching the front back bumper at certain angles but I got it fixed each time. This noise problem existed before my first ever offroad drive, (which was with you @Srikumar BTW ) so it seems unrelated. From the driver's seat, the noise does not seem to be coming from left or right, but almost center. Heeding advice from you guys, I decided to visit my garage today and luckily the noise started when I was about to reach the garage. I called the mechanic out on the road and was able to demonstrate the noise to him while slowly driving past him. Later we put the car on a lift and tried spinning the wheels in 2H and 4H. The mechanic concluded that the noise is not related to the wheel bearings but he pointed to the front differential and said the noise seems to be coming from there. Also he pointed to fluid leaking from the differential. I have taken a picture of the part that he suggested to be faulty: After leaving the garage, I got the noise again. I tried switching from 2H to 4H and the noise just went off when the car switched to 4H. As I had mentioned before, the noise problem never occurred while off-roading when I was always in 4H. Googling for "Pajero front differential issues", found me some posts on various off-roading forums that had people complaining about the exact same symptoms as me. The final solution was replacement of either solenoids, actuators or both. I am going to get a second opinion about the wheel bearings and front diff from Al Habtoor before getting anything fixed. Would also appreciate any further comments from you guys.

This would have caused the engine to overheat instantly, as water and pressure constantly leak. That's the last stage. My views: 6 liter depletion isn't normal and you would have felt it much earlier before this car switching-off episode. Something is leaking through the radiator or its hoses for sure. Car switched off is the last stage and Im afraid and sorry to say that most likely 9 out 10 times with full engine overheat, the head gasket goes instantly. Probably you might be lucky as you were at slow-moving speed and not on highway or off-road. Don't drive the car until you can get hold of a good mechanic available to minimize the extent of damage (if it's done). Get the coolant pressure check. Get compression test of all cyl, that can 100% tell the engine health. If variance of more than 10-15% in any cyl. surely head gasket is gone. All cyl should read above 120 PSI or Google Patrol compression number to cross-check.

It's 90% wheel bearing and the best part is, it will get worse progressively very soon. Ask a mechanic or DIY, jack up one front tire off the ground and check the wheel for two levels of play: Up and down and then side-by-side. Any play is not acceptable and you need to change that side wheel bearing. Do the same test on other front side and you will find the culprit easily.

Hi @londondxb the fact you had to add about 6litres is indeed a sign you were basically running without any coolant. Using water to refill can be done in emergency cases, but you will need to get it flushed and replaced with coolant asap. Water will cause corrosion inside the cooling circuit, while coolant has corrosion inhibitor inside, and also has a higher boiling point). Another thing to consider is you might have some air bubbles inside the system now which have to be released. In any case i would highly advise to take the car for coolant flushing and replacement (even a nearby Autopro or something can do this). They can also do a basic inspection on leaks. I do hope if you are consuming water somewhere and you don't seem to see where it's going, it might be being burned by the engine which would mean a faulty head gasket. But then again you'd have to see some white smoke coming out of the exhaust.

Hi @rroker.. I think they need to isoline first if noise is there while car is on “P” and play with engine to get it to higher RPM, if it is still there then this isolates all moving parts on wheels, brakes, suspension, and transmission and focus on engine and other moving parts like belts, rollers, or engine it self. if noise is not coming on that state then with extreme cautions and proper safety preparations they can put the cat on the lift to just barely take the wheels off the ground (few centimeters) and ensure the car is stable and then engage transmission and start accelerating to simulate the issue and identify where it’s coming from.. highest suspects will be wheel bearing, drive shaft, transfer case, or transmission itself. P.S. that last test need to be done by a very experienced person who ensures the car is fully stabilized on the lift before they engage the gear and will not change with vibrations once it’s engaged

Before the floods, and during Eid, I was out for a ride and got stuck in some really slow stop/start traffic for about 20 minutes. This was late in the evening when the weather was a bit cooler. For the first time ever the coolant temperature on my dash spiked to max and the check engine light came on (which I've now read to be P1217 - engine over temperature). This is the first time it's happened in my <1 year of ownership; it normally sits dead on the 'min' line. I shut it off and waited an hour or so to cool down before topping it up with I think 6 litres of water before driving it home with no further issues. When I got home I topped everything up to the max again - the radiator and the two supplementary tanks next to each wing - and it was probably another four litres, which is an alarming amount of coolant. So far I've not seen any leaks whilst the car has been parked; it's bone dry. I last had the car serviced about six months ago which was its first service during my ownership. I hope they checked/topped up the coolant, but I guess there's every possibility they didn't and I'd been running low since purchasing the car. When I bought the car I did a PPI on it and there was no mention of coolant leaks/coolant being low, but again I don't remember explicitly seeing that it was checked so there's every possibility it was overlooked again. All my local garages are currently full of flooded cars but I of course have to take it in somewhere to be pressure checked, etc. In the meantime does anyone have any suggestions on what I proactively might be able to check? Could I have an improperly sealing radiator cap for instance? Visually everything looks fine but maybe I have a leak that's causing evaporation under high pressure.

The noise feels like a rubbing noise or from the wheel bearing. Just check if the mud guards are not scrapping the tyre especially in the front. Do you have a skid plate for the front bumper? Reason I am asking is because the Pajero front bumper without a skid plate does tend to bend inside after a couple of off-road drives. See if you can get someone to sit with you and try to find out from which side of the car the noise is coming from. That might help to identify if it's a wheel bearing issue

how did "shwarma" get inserted into this request? If @Ishak & @DP1011 crave shwarma, we'll have to extend the drive from Nahel to Al Ain airport so lunch will be with shwarma 😂

Hello friends, My Mitsubishi Pajero 3.5, LWB, 2017 makes an occasional noise and vibration which usually starts at lower speed, increases when I slow down and completely stops with a shudder when I brake. The sound is like the racing of a high speed car or motorcycle. You can hear the sound in this recorded video: https://youtu.be/a8v9BJ-X8eY?si=mrLyw4T7mBbBf-K3 I intentionally did not come to a complete stop while recording this video so that I can have a longer recording of the noise. At the end of the video, I come to a complete stop and the noise stops. (1:20) I have been to 3 garages including Al Habtoor but all of them ask me to recreate the sound during a test drive which is impossible to do as I have been unable to establish any correlation between the sound and any specific usage of the car. Yesterday I got my timing belt replaced by Al Habtoor and they had told me that maybe the sound would go away after that but lo and behold it occurred within 5 minutes of me taking the car out of their workshop. The following jobs were done on the car as a part of maintenance or service which did not fix the noise: All Disc skimming Front brake pad replacement Engine oil, filter replacement Steering column boot lubrication Brake cleaning All 4 tyres replaced (HT to AT) Wheel balancing and alignment These jobs were done over period of few months. None of these jobs fixed the noise problem. Also I have been on 3 newbie offroad drives but the problem has never occurred during off-roading. Apologies for the long post, I had to make sure I provide all the details because I am at my wit's end here. I will be going back to Al Habtoor but it would great if an experienced Carnity member can guide me in the right direction of what this noise could be. Thank you!

Unless the donuts and shawarma are from last week's drive😂!

@Gaurav it will be great to have another newbie drive or at least join this one in two groups 😁

@Gaurav Since there are 8 ppl in waitlist, any possibility for additional Newbie drive this week?😀

With donuts, shawarma, and coffee, we can adjust the time and extend the convoy sir @Zed 😅