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Thank you for this honour and I really feel at home with Carnity. Like everyone would try to better his or her home to come back to, I too make suggestions which might or might not help. I am humbled to being heard every time and it not only feels good to see my idea come to life but also being appreciated publicly. Many people make contributions in their own way to make Carnity what it is today, a wealth of knowledge preserved for any body who would like to use it to their advantage. Thank you Carnity for giving us the opportunity and thank you to each and every friend I have made in Carnity who encourage me to make my home a better place.

Thanks, @Rahimdad for all the continuous support and ideas to develop Carnity knowledgebase. His one of the recent suggestion has been implemented to have a featured topic - sidebar panel where best of the best topic will get featured. A topic will only get featured based on single criteria - to have wealth of useful information and not the just maximum number of views and replies.

Hi there, It goes without saying that your car's alternator, battery, and wiring should be in good and working condition, with or without installing additional equipment. Basically, you will need to run another power wire straight from your battery's + towards your amp(s). Choosing the right size of cable is based on how powerful your amps are: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-1TnffuYRpSC/learn/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html I'm not good with gauge sizes, i used 10mm2 cable if i'm not mistaken (7 AWG). You can buy the complete cable sets on s o u q or downtown which will contain the following: 1) Power Cable (red) with fuse and fuse holder: Avoid drilling holes in your firewall (metal wall between your engine bay and the inside of your car). Just look at which location the cabling from your engine bay goes towards the dashboard. This will normally pass through some kind of rubber. Through this rubber you should be able to pinch a small hole and then put your power cable through it. Now guide your power cable to the back of the car where your amp will be located. You'll need to remove the upholstery/carpets/sidepanels and look for the shortest way possible. 2) (Ground cable) Black: This will be a short piece of black cable of the same thickness as your power cable. Connect this one to a GOOD grounded chassis point nearest to your amp. with GOOD ground i mean it has to be a bolt going into the metal frame of your car. Use an ohm meter to be sure that the grounding is actually in touch with the frame. In many cars, the bolts that are used to mount the seat-belts to your car frame are good for this. If nothing is available then you could drill a hole in the metal panel, remove the paint, and bolt it to the frame. But use this as last resort to avoid corrosion or hitting something which you did not intend to hit like your gas tank. 3) RCA Cable: This is the cable that sends the audio signal from your head-unit to the amp. DO NOT put this wire together with your power cable in the same cable trunking. In some cases it will result in humming or noise when you accelerate the car. Just try to find a different route. Normally the power cable goes through the left side of the car (the side where your battery is), while the speaker cable and signal cables go through the right side. 4) Remote Cable: This is a simple wire that you'll need to connect to the headunit's "remote" connector. It sends 12 Volts to the amplifier to switch it on when the headunit is switched on. Most RCA signal cables have a small third extra wire along the core that you can use, but any wire (or some extra speaker wire) will do. 5) Speaker Wire: Regular audio speaker wire 2,5mm2 will do to cable the speakers all the way up to the amp. You can choose to tap into them through the original connector behind the head-unit, or you can pull new cables all the way up to the speaker itself (not so easy to do with front speakers as you'll need to pass through the original rubber door cabling). You'll need the following equipment: -Soldering iron (if you decide to solder instead of using crimping lugs). I prefer soldering any time. -Crimping lugs (forks, male and female). -Electrical tape. -Multimeter. To identify which speaker is which in your cabling, you can use a 1.5 AA volt battery . Just hold the speaker wire on the + and - for a second and the popping sound will get you to identify which speaker is which. Try to take into account the correct + and - connections of your speakers. If wired incorrectly it will result in a phase cancellation fault which you cannot hear easily, but results in far less bass coming through the speaker because one speaker moves outwards while the other moves inwards during pumping out sound, resulting in a cancellation. If you are not sure which is the + or -, just wire up everything and when you play a song with some good bass, try shifting the balance from L to R on your head-unit. You will notice that suddenly you will have more bass out of 1 speaker instead of 2. That means your + and - are reversed . Most-probably you WILL break some of these side-panel plastic thingys that pop into the holes and keep your doorpanels and sidepanels in their place. The older the car, the more likelier because they are detoriorated and will break off very easily. But that's a small pain compared with the joy of having a good sound system.

Here is my current audio system build - Pioneer (all the way), that I and Barry have built last year. SUPER happy with the output and loud enough to have crisp detail with enough bass for little outdoor gathering even. Pioneer TS-A1686S - 350W - 60W RMS (Front speaker) - 150 AED Pioneer TS-A6996S - 650W - 100W RMS (Rear Speaker) - 200 AED Pioneer TS-S20 - 200W - 20mm amorphous-titanium-coated dome tweeters - 250 AED Pioneer DEH-X4850FD - 100W x 4 Channel (Head unit) - 375 AED Pioneer GM-D8604 - 1200W Class FD 4 Channel Bridgeable Car Amplifier - 500 AED Oxygen free cable for wiring - 100 AED High-quality AMP cables - 100 AED Labor in 3 places - 300 AED Total: 1975 AED My strong advice is to first make up your mind 100% on which all components you want and then go with one shot buying and installation, as that will save you labor cost, time and hassle A LOT. I have done in 3 tranches and regret the time and money wastage. For road noise, there are soundproofing ways that you can ask the sound installation guy to place it and seal all doors. Of course, it's not cheap though and it may cost in the range of 800 - 1000 AED additional.

I like to welcome three newbies to the Carnity offroad club: Aref, Prakash and Vinod. All of them drove very well and had lot of patience and understanding to follow the brief for safe off-roading. Thanks to my limited memory chip, I completely forgot this area and it was like totally new area for me after several years of break. It was something different and had the perfect mix of all terrain for the newbies. We had 2 cars, with really low bumpers and to my surprise, both of them managed very well and exited with the same bumper in place. Special thanks to Rahim bhai lead to keep everyone safe and we manage to finish drive with just one stuck in 5-6 hours. It's always good to meet new faces and exchange different cuisines at the end, that makes any drive complete with social touch and knowing each other.

I am looking to change the audio system in my Jeep Cherokee. Currently the audio receiver unit is a Pioneer DEH-4250SD with 50W x 4 rating which I am currently going to continue. The 5.25" front and rear speakers seem to be the original from the factory and are completely worn out. I intend to buildup a good quality sound system, but since I am on a very tight budget I felt I will start changing one component at a time and hopefully in a few months would have a sound system that I can really enjoy. I plan to replace the front speakers at the first stage, then next the rear speakers, then get an amp and woofer. But, I need some help in defining the final system so that I am moving in the right direction Some of the questions I have are: 1. With the current audio receiver being rated for 50W x 4 which I presume is the RMS wattage, would it be ok if i install speakers of higher RMS rating so that if I upgrade the receiver unit in the future it would improve the sound quality at that stage 2. Should I go with 4-way speakers or 2-way speakers, full range speakers or component speakers? 3. I do get a lot of road noise at high speeds, is there any kind of dampeners that can be used to negate this? Or can you define a sound system that can take this into account, because I am sure that this issue would be faced in convertibles or car with soft tops as well. 4. How do I decide what should be the amp and sub rating? I am quite new to this, so do appreciate your advise and suggestions.

What are the worst design flaws you have seen? Here are a few, Nissan X terra. Factory roof rack, brilliant. Factory sunroof, brilliant. Not being able to use the sunroof because the roof rack is in the way? What the heck? Mercedes biodegradable wiring loom. Great idea in theory, saves all that plastic from going to landfill. In practice, hecking stupid idea. What if you like your old car and want to keep it but every time you go for a drive something short circuits? Lifetime fluids. Sure, fantastic. It's not like the metal parts rubbing together in your gearbox will ever create swarf that will eventually jam up the valve block. Physics eh? What did that Newton guy know anyway.

In an ideal world for awesome clarity and crisp output, everything should route through AMP. You should have 4 channel decent AMP for 4 speakers and 2 Channel AMP for the woofer. Or you can get powerful 4 channel AMP and use two channel for 4 speakers by clubbing front left + rear left as one set and so on for right side and use other 2 channel for the woofer. Or you can get 6 channel AMP but the price will be a lot more than having two AMP. Secondly in any sound system built, the head unit is the main jewel in the crown. Do not compromise on that, I was having 3 years old Sony xplod single 52W RMS unit that I replaced with Pioneer 100W RMS and just by replacing the head unit, the whole sound scene changed dramatically. While doing my system some of the geniuses here advise me too to go for the used component, but after researching the main issue I stopped. Expensive cars factory unit run with a lot of support at AMP and controller level and design with that size and sound space inside that car, so unless you rip every sound module from the donor car and place it exactly same in your car you won't' enjoy, as you will lose the secret recipe of "config". I have gone to my friend's place to listen to his Harman Kardon speaker and realize they sound too bad as just speaker alone from scrap can't do the full justice. They perform well only at a certain level and moment you want to crank up the volume, you realize there is something wrong. Crutchfield has tons of good information and build list, that I strongly suggest to use and educate from. IMHO go for new one so that you can size everything perfectly for your car.

I used to ride bikes and whilst it’s a lot of fun, you constantly need to watch your ass. If I had a dirham for every time someone said sorry mate I didn’t see you, I could leave dubai for good.

1000 Watts is plenty to run a PlayStation. I ran a PlayStation and small lcd screen on a 300w inverter before. If it is cutting out when you plug it in the cigarette lighter, maybe the wiring for the cigarette lighter can’t handle it. Have you tried it with the engine running, might make a difference. Also a lot of electronic devices don’t like a modified sine wave. They would prefer a pure sine wave to run properly. Square, quasi and cutted waves are what electricians call dirty electricity. Take your clamp leads to any of the small electrical shops, show them the wire and they will sell you extra per metre to suit your requirements. It isn’t expensive. Don’t forget to add a fuse in the power supply. If you’re going to lengthen the leads, solder and heat shrink is the only real solution. Twisted leads can spark and drop the connection or worse still, cause fires. Better still, just replace the whole cable with a single length of wire. If you need any help or someone to show you what to do, I’m free most Fridays.

Hey, The component speakers will indeed have their own filter on board, but the lowest frequencies are anyway sent to the door speakers. A high pass crossover on your Amp will allow you to filter out everything below 80hertz so your subwoofer can take these on instead of the 5.25" front speakers. Its not a must but more a "nice to have" on your Amp. Pertaining the secondhand stuff; you might find some on dubizzle if you keep a close eye on it, but be careful when buying secondhand speakers: it's difficult to test them when you buy them, and they might have been abused heavily. Check on souq for deals and good prices. I have bad experiences with sharjah and find it more convenient to get everything delivered.

Hi, The 4x50 Watts on your head-unit are in reality hardly 4x22 Watts RMS. Upgrading with an amp will surely result in a big improvement in terms of sound quality. The fact that your original speaker size is a bit on the small side, will not result in a lot of power on the low frequencies. So adding a subwoofer will come in handy. Unless you are able to put bigger speakers in all your doors, then you might be happy to go without a subwoofer. Full range speakers for your doors are fine. Better results will be achieved with component speakers on the front. Mainly you want to be able to point to separate tweeter directly towards yourself, which is not possible if the tweeter is in your door. Dampening the noise is surely possible. We used to put asphalt bitumen on the insides of the doors Pertaining your question on the wattage: - For door-speakers: 50W RMS onwards is more than loud enough. Many speaker brands use wattages like max or PMPO (peak music power output) which are very very overrated and unrealistic. If you go for the big brands, just look at the RMS rating because this is at least a realistic value. - For subwoofers: Anything from 200W RMS up to a few thousands of W RMS is possible a good starter set is a 12" subwoofer for 200W RMS. Take into account the space it will need in the back of your car. If you want to go offroading and camping, it becomes a bit of a hassle imho. You can put plugs on it so it becomes removable, but also comes with some limitations. - For Amplifiers: Always make sure that your amp can deliver/match the RMS wattage of your speakers. There are many options available: 4 channel amps, 2 channel amps, amps which can be bridged, amps with onboard crossovers, etc.. etc... Chronologically in your case i would take the following route: 1) Look for a good component front speaker set in either the original size that fits, or if possible go for a bigger size. Pioneer, Sony, JBL are good entry level brands. Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, Polk Audio, JL Audio, Focal, Hertz, are more high-end but will set you back a decent buck and are more difficult to find here. 2) Buy a decent 2 channel amp that can power the front speakers. Again Sony, Pioneer, JBL, Alpine, etc will give a good bang for the bucks. If possible go for an amp that has built-in crossovers. You can enable the highpass filter for your front speaker so you can make sure they only play stuff above 80hz. It will result in less rattling in your doors, and anything under 80 hertz will be for your sub anyway 3) Rear speakers: Less important imho. Buy some entry level ones and keep them on the headunit amp. 4) Subwoofer: 10 to 12" is the most chosen option due to power vs size. You can buy an additional amp to power it (2 channel amp that is bridged), or go for these active sub tubes with built-in amp. I found a shop on SZ that sells Ground Zero stuff. Unfortunately they charge a bit too much like most shops here. You didn't mention if you want to do this by yourselves or not. It is a nice hobby and if you have some basic knowledge about electricity and removing door panels, it is rather easy to do by yourselves. I made it my hobby many years back and the joy of installing, listening, and fine-tuning it is much higher than getting everything installed by a pro. But that is your choice of course and installing cost here in UAE is not that high. Good luck !

There have been studies that indicate diesel fumes are indeed carcinogenic. The 2 main contributors are soot and PAH (Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons). PAHs can directly alter the DNA in your lungs on inhalation causing cell mutations. Soot tends to get stuck in the alveoli which causes inflammation. Surrounding cells try to fight the inflammation which can cause random mutations that may develop into cancer.

@sertac, thanks for the feedback. Would you know what was the RMS rating for your head unit and front speakers? Also, I thought normally since the amplifier feeds the subwoofer the sub power rating has to match the amp power rating.

A very sincere thanks to the complete team with Gaurav Bhai, Rahimdad Bhai and Asif Bhai's unparalleled support and guidance. In spite of being newbie it was a cake walk at every instance. Appreciate the way every minute details are executed in a organized way.. Happy off roading !!!

Hi Sri; Lately i made a sound system for my Cherokee. I used sony xplod 3 way speaker for front(https://uae.souq.com/ae-en/sony-xplod-13cm/s/?as=1). I didnt change the back ones(they are still working). For subwoofer and ampfi i found second hand pionner 760w ampfi and 1300w subwoofer. I bought them for 400AED(from dubizzle). I paid 250aed for cables and fixing in Ajman. If you want to listen how it sounds we can meet and you can try. I am really happy with my system.