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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/12/2018 in all areas

  1. I get so many messages from people asking for advice on their car problems. Sure, if you’re a friend and I know you, feel free to call me and ask, but if you don’t know me personally, please post all questions on the forum. I will be civil and answer personal messages but it’s not the proper way to do it. Information shared in private messages is information lost. Share the questions and answers on the forum and people will be able to search it for years to come and your questions will help many people instead of just helping yourself. I do what I do for free, I don’t receive any payment. I’m just trying to share knowledge the same way it was shared to me years ago.
    6 points
  2. @Nikhil this drive instead of seeing love, you will feel it. I will be parting my teddy bear hugs to all.
    3 points
  3. p0300 this comes usually when one of multiple cylinder are misfiring which actually means that the cylinder is not burning fuel adequately or not at all. there are many reasons for this as its one of the most wide scope code in automotive line it can start from the tip the air filter to the end the exhaust.its bit easy to diagnose if accompanied with other codes if not then the fault could be anywhere in anyform it's not that you can't fix it but it's a long procedure to narrow it down if left alone its a very nasty thing which can create many troubles like drivability issues rough idle,high fuel consumption, weaken the engine mounts, ruin the catalytic converter,choke the catalytic converter which in turn will ruin the rings and fail the engine and or run the catalytic converter so hot that it could lead to a fire hazard. the fix The spark plugs first off all is to pull the codes and see what actually is going on get some live reads from the diagnosis machine if its a advanced car if not then start from the basics like check the spark plugs if their ceramics been burnt at the base then it is time to change them the air air filter should be inspected and replaced if necessary air metering sensor should be checked and verified if in specs the throttle hose should be inspected for air leaks also the intake hoses and the intake manifold itself should not be ruled out too they too get bent or develop cracks that can be checked by spraying starting fluid and or carefully listen you can hear a hissing noise sometimes the ignition coils/plug wires then check the ignition coils for any electricity escape burn marks it'll show up like rainbow color (if distributor less) just loosen up the ig coil and raise it a bit while the engine is running you will hear the ticks ticks at uniform speed if not then switch off and exchange with the one which does tick tick that way you can narrow it down to the ig coils or the wiring of that particular coil harness which can be corrected looking up the wiring diagram of the particular make and model if still it remain in the particular cylinder then the coil driver of the particular cylinder located in the ecm is bad if the car is equipped with the distributor then wait for it to be dark or darken the place nicely and then open the bonnet and observe the plug wires for any lightning escape through the wires be careful though as its gonna sting real bad because of very high current the injectors/fuel pump it could be that the injectors are not working or its wiring could be bad that too can be checked exchanging the injectors place and again hearing the ticks of the injector using mechanics stethoscope if still not then the wiring of that particular injector needs to be looked at by using the wiring diagram also its important to remove them all and get them serviced at a good place so that you can know that the spray patterns and the spray quantity is good if still the problem persists in that same cylinder then the injector driver in the ecm is the problem for some cars which have direct injection injectors you wont be able to do this as removing injectors in those means you have to put back new ones the fuel pump pressure can be checked by fixing a gauge at the fuel rail and or a T joint should be put between the fuel rail and the feed pipe. please bear in mind that if the car was standing for a long time then its better to empty the tank and start with fresh fuel. the timing components the timing belts or chains could skip a teeth or two and the engine will run out of timing and result in misfire like behaviour you always have to check the camshaft ,crankshaft and the balancers (if equipped) that they alin at the right timing marks (if present) you can look up the FSM's of particular engine's the engine cylinders to check these you have to remove the fuel pump relay so no raw fuel will contaminate the catalytic converters ( if equipped ) and stick a gauge in the spark plugs place and note down each cylinders pressure also (generally) be aware that no two cylinders pressure should be more the 20 psi apart. they should be above 80 to have a start condition for specific engine pressure please look in the manual (to pin point ring and valve or leaking gasket problem apart you have to put oil in the cylinders to take the reading) the exhaust sometimes with a direct hit it crumbles or sometimes because of running hot the catalytic converter melts and chokes the pipe if it is in the right place of the pipe. it can stall or run very different then you are accustomed to as there could be very high back pressure which could alter the firing cycle the waiver those with heart conditions stay away from ignition components as very high voltage risk is involved. the work explained above is very dangerous to attempt on your own. there are many additional steps which have not been mentioned here but is not limited to like cover removal or the intake removal,timing cover removal which maybe required multiple times to complete the procedure you will always need the help of someone who is professionally trained to handle this types of work. the risks involved can be of electrocution, burning (yourself or the car or the premise where you are performing these exercises ) amputation, respiratory illness, blindness
    2 points
  4. @Nikhil this drive is a newbie drive in Maliha area. The love drive was near Lisalli. I think there might be a repeat of that drive in the near future. Your most welcome to join the Maliha drive as well.
    2 points
  5. All those who have registered for the drive, please share your contact numbers in case there is a need for any coordination. The phone number of the senior members who will be there for this drive are mentioned below: Rahimdad - 050 674 9099 Asif - 050 699 0411 Srikumar - 055 9567471
    1 point
  6. @shadow79 you misunderstood my comment, I was trying to help you with more info by sharing the P0300 code article written by professional and certified OBD II diagnostic expert with 25 years of experience.
    1 point
  7. Very well said @Barry i do agree with you every bit, im also happy that you believe in sharing all what you know.😉 in today's world many dont do that and if you need an advice you need to pay a price for it, luckily thanks to Carnity many of us get real and genuine advice free of cost.( Experienced hands on job advice tried and tested with experience to be specific)
    1 point
  8. Will we be seeing the love again , I am interested and will inform one of my friend also to join on 16 nov
    1 point
  9. Very well said @Barry and I'm sure many of Carnity regular contributing members must be getting such PM. Newbies should realize that help should be in open not only to help others in the future but to maximize their response from other experienced car enthusiast's.
    1 point
  10. Fair play Barry. A little respect for your space.
    1 point
  11. 1 point
  12. What did I originally say? Check the shaft. But what do I know about cars? 😂😂😂😂 glad you got it sorted.
    1 point
  13. Just an update on the OP, in my last drive the noise was just getting worse and after we exited, i felt a heavy vibration at the speed of 20 - 30 km / h. Had to winch it to the garage, and when inspected it turned out to be the front drive shaft joint at the transmission end and not at the front differential end. Got a clean front drive shaft from the scrap yard and had it replaced. The entire noise has disappeared. 😄 Will be giving the car a good test during the next weekend drive as I finally have a mental peace knowing that the car is ready to be pushed to the limit
    1 point
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