Leaderboard

And don’t thank me, actually I also didn’t want my beloved Jawaher (that’s my car’s name) to kiss your car 😘

Knowing Emmanuel well and driven with him for over 2 years, I think there are two possibilities for this stuck: He carefully moved slightly up to avoid the churned up patch and still slid down, so either his momentum wasn't enough to steer left and up too fast OR His rear tire pressure was more as the car slid down from the back into the churned up patch.

As requested by @Emmanuel

It seems the path was already messed up by the time it was your turn to go there.. I can see the pathfinder barely made it and your car ground clearance was not able to cross through the path because the sand was wet and behaved like mud. I think that if you had made it somebody else would have gotten stuck anyway..

@Emmanuel I'm you biggest fan and with this thread you have won my heart and sure to win many more. Rightfully no shame and good to learn from such videos. @WiLfY spot on, sometimes we should leave little extra space in such situations as we cannot be sure how the car in front will react. Once we drive together in a few drives we pick up on drive habits and judgement gets better.

Guessing.. The car in front slowed down and you took your foot off the accelerator, losing momentum and then stuck. Hmm.. the car in front looks like a Pathfinder.

Having a refusal or getting completely stuck is something nobody should feel guilty about, since it's part of the off-roading game. It’s also an essential experience in your learning. Somehow, as long as you can understand what happened so you won’t repeat the same mistake over and over, it’s a must to improve. There are hundreds of reasons why you can get stuck. Some of them don’t directly depend on the driver (it can be related to an engine issue, the terrain, the climate, etc.), while others are just mistakes. Some of them are clear and obvious, others are more unpredictable and difficult to identify… As a big fan of @Rahimdad’s What Went Wrong ? thread, it came to my mind that we could simply adapt his brilliant idea by analyzing, not accidents, but stucks, and try to make together a list of all the possible reasons behind them. Please do share here your guesses, explanations... and videos. I’ll start easy, with one of my best stucks this year, which happened in Area 53 two weeks ago (I borrowed the footage from @Javier M). So... who can tell us why I got stuck here ? Stuck_1.mp4

Drive in Wadi Shawka, Dam, Track, Camping, Hiking, Cycling, Weather, Location, Photos, Videos, Reviews and Feedback from the travellers who have visited before. Wadi Al Shawka offers many adventures in one place from offroad trails to outdoor sports like cycling, hiking, canyoning etc. Wadi Shawka in Ras Al Khaimah is covered by Hajjar Mountains from all side and the valley is filled with rocky terrain, farmland, water pools, wildlife and plenty of parking and camping spots. Wadi Shawka is a perfect place for having a family picnics, bbq and get-together in nature. Wadi Shawka is about 1 hour away from Dubai and Sharjah and approx 2 hours 30 minutes from Abu Dhabi. Drive to Wadi Shawka Dam: You can drive any car there as it has a flat track path with a mix of tarmac road till Shawka Dam. https://goo.gl/maps/srTTLCiZtn72 25°06'20.1"N 56°02'33.2"E - 25.105587, 56.042553 For offroad adventure, Wadi Shawka offers two levels of route: Drive in Wadi Shawka - Easy (only for 4x4 and SUV): Instead of going straight towards the Shawka Dam, you can take right towards the Canyoning parking and follow the gravel track for fun and adventurous drive to reach right behind the Shawka Dam. You can enjoy the beautiful views of the mountain and water together with plenty of shaded area for fun and picnic, bbq and games. Starting point: https://goo.gl/maps/Mvx6PtcNecM2 25°05'50.7"N 56°01'57.2"E - 25.097427, 56.032552 Midway: https://goo.gl/maps/zfeDSojdmdz 25°05'42.4"N 56°02'34.6"E - 25.095115, 56.042931 Viewpoint: https://goo.gl/maps/d91KFhsBn3m 25°06'15.4"N 56°02'47.1"E - 25.104281, 56.046412 Drive in Wadi Shawka - Intermediate (only for 4x4): Perfectly bouldered and challenging track after Shawka Dam towards Wadi Esfai side, sometimes this route is inaccessible due to big rocks and deep water wading, so good ground clearance 4x4 with offroad tires are highly recommended. Proper 4x4 with good ground clearance is must from this point onward Wadi Shawka Starting point: https://goo.gl/maps/3jAgDXtLxsB2 25°06'11.4"N 56°02'57.2"E - 25.103179, 56.049213 Waypoint 1: https://goo.gl/maps/EgVjapcFY4S2 25°06'18.4"N 56°03'42.2"E - 25.105111, 56.061711 Waypoint 2: https://goo.gl/maps/pkx7h5aPrVL2 25°06'11.5"N 56°04'34.8"E - 25.103180, 56.076341 Waypoint 3: https://goo.gl/maps/smFU7vDsV5Q2 25°05'54.9"N 56°06'04.0"E - 25.098587, 56.101118 Wadi Shawka Finish point: https://goo.gl/maps/Qi4T8ANNPiS2 25°05'47.9"N 56°07'20.2"E - 25.096628, 56.122282 Farmland: https://goo.gl/maps/cY8wwrTQsqk 25°06'00.4"N 56°05'04.2"E - 25.100111, 56.084500 Shawka Bicycles: https://goo.gl/maps/KkV1HkShpuS2 25°05'01.4"N 56°01'17.5"E - 25.083726, 56.021531 Shawka Cycling Starting Point: https://goo.gl/maps/Vy1UcLwtHTo 25°04'49.1"N 56°01'34.3"E - 25.080298, 56.026204 Shawka Hiking: https://goo.gl/maps/SxbJmM4Fd4z 25°06'47.1"N 56°02'01.6"E - 25.113092, 56.033769 Shawka Pools Access (easy): https://goo.gl/maps/aRigoiBv6Xw 25°06'13.8"N 56°01'37.4"E - 25.103821, 56.027067 Heritage Village: https://goo.gl/maps/hH9y2aS1Uzk 25°06'11.7"N 56°02'28.9"E - 25.103249, 56.041350 Wadi Showka Canyoning Parking: https://goo.gl/maps/6rJjHRafsfF2 25°05'51.9"N 56°01'47.1"E - 25.097745, 56.029747 Wadi Shawka Dam Aeriel View Reviews: Tripadvisor - 4 out 5 based on 25 reviews Google: 4.3 out of 5 based on 83 reviews There are very few grocery shops and restaurant around for quick bites and snacks, so it's always better to pack your food in advance, as choices here are quite limited. Cafeteria: https://goo.gl/maps/ADZ2FUZn4Lt 25°05'54.3"N 56°01'34.0"E - 25.098421, 56.026111 Grocery: https://goo.gl/maps/TfribDJmkmn 25°05'53.6"N 56°01'41.5"E - 25.098221, 56.028185 Mosque for Friday Prayers: https://goo.gl/maps/oofPYFeLDsz 25°05'50.5"N 56°01'44.3"E - 25.097347, 56.028958 Small Mosque: https://goo.gl/maps/hiLPCvV5Dvw 25°05'49.5"N 56°01'37.9"E - 25.097090, 56.027191 Best time to visit: October to May, when the weather is not too hot for outdoor. Careful during the rainy season. Wadi Shawka Weather: Wadi Shawka temperature is slightly lower than the city temperature by 2-5 degrees. Maybe a lot lower if you can find a good shade under the trees. Wadi Shawka Entrance Fees: There are no charges to visit or using public areas Timing: It is open 24/7, 365 days, but to enjoy nature daytime is better. Wadi Shawka Camping: You can camp anywhere safely, but be careful of wildlife especially after dark. Essentials: Outdoor clothing and closed footwear, Online GPS is a must for driving (offline is even better), carry plenty of water and food if you plan to stay outdoors for long hours. Keep it clean: Don't litter anywhere, because trash cans, plastic and glass kill wildlife. Emergency: If bitten by a snake or a Scorpio take a picture or remember the colour and size and rush to the nearest hospital for a specific antidote for that species. Keep yourself calm, so your blood pressure and heartbeat stay low to help you minimize the effect. Feedback: Please leave your feedback below if you have been to Wadi Shawka and like to add something more. Wadi Shawka Track: In KMZ and GPX format below Only Carnity Members Can download this complete Wadi Shawka Route Track Wadi Shawka.kmz Wadi Shawka.gpx

No you didn’t it was my mistake @G.huz, not your.

I think this is what happened, passing by from the upper side might have lead to other things, maybe bad ones... So thank you @Emmanuel for taking that decision. I think it's a smart decision to slow down, he was at a good pace and momentum, I ruined it by becoming slow. I remember I shifted gears to pass that one, it was tricky... @Gaurav was trying to teach us a hard lesson hehe. It was a wonderful drive, I enjoyed every bit of it, even that stuck of mine, from which I burned like 5000 calories just by turning the steering wheel left and right hahaha

Great team work, guys ! You have covered almost everything. @WiLfY you're absolutely right, as you can see on this footage (again sorry for the low quality of the video). The question is why I took my foot off the gas, and here, as pointed by @Rahimdad and @Fuad, it was my mistake : not leaving enough distance with @G.huz's car in front. What happened exactly at this point is that I hesitated to steer more left and accelerate. Seeing the heavy wet sand (the night and the morning before there had been heavy rain and haze, good point @Javier M), I was not sure to be able to climb on the left, and in this case a failure could have led me to slid down and then hit the Pathfinder. Last point, and here @Gaurav is also right : after this stuck I had to bring down my tire pressure again. One hour earlier I had deflated to 12/12.5 psi, but with the heat (the temperature was high this afternoon), the gauge was now displaying 14. stuck1_embeded.mp4

And @Javier M was able to manage because he had some distance between for quick reaction.

1. Very Imp - In case the car has been parked for long hours - (for eg. overnight or full office hours), start the engine but let it idle for 30-40 seconds as this will work the engine oil to all moving parts at Idle RPM and then head off to your destination, also do not rev. too much for the first couple of kms as far as possible. 2. Not sure about this but i was advised to switch off AC before turning off the car so that at the time of start-up, the AC motor does not put additional load on engine start-up (perhaps senior members can shed some light) 3. Use quality engine oil and change it very regularly as per the Oil type (would recommend full synthetic - Mobil1 or Total, recommended grade as i understand is 15W-40 but you will not get this in Mobil1). 4. Since you mentioned 93K, check previous records if the Timing belt has been replaced. If not, then this is recommended every 100K kms, timing belt, pulley, water pump, thermostat & such things, on that note, also check if "Major Service' was done, which basically replaces all the major fluids. Brake, gear, Differential, Transfer case, power steering and such. Please note, major service will not include the timing belt part, it has to be done separately. Engine is not a high maintenance part if you follow basic rules, most important is right engine oil grade & a quality brand & timely oil change.

Welcome, @Glanz Lube to Carnity and it's a very good opening topic you picked. You should always stick to correct grade engine oil as mentioned in your car owners manual and also choose a well-trusted brand whose quality certifications meet and exceed minimum requirements. I don't rem ever I handed my car keys to change oil without checking which brand and grade of oil those guys are using. I think more than 50% of garages in UAE uses an unheard brand of engine oil to markup good profit and the moment you ask can you get me Mobil 1 or Castrol, service price shoots up by double. In today's competitive world price battle is pushing the quality down and if one garage can service 4 cylinder car in 200 dhs, then neighbour wants to beat down to 100 dhs by cutting the corner on the engine oil. In this price battle, the ultimate sufferer is the customer who thinks he walks away with a 100 dhs lesser deal, but eventually end up cooking his engine for the sake of 100 dhs without even knowing the difference between a good and bad quality engine oil. Sadly some of the car dealers are even using such inferior brand of engine oil and when you ask which brand it is then they conceal with the car brand+oil name, sir it's original "car brand" oil - I heard it twice with two different car brands and ran away.

like my workshop guy recently mentioned to me:80% of the people do not know the difference between oils, let alone talking about SN grades. It also confuses me sometimes. I tend to put my faith and trust in the workshop and sometimes ask them which products they use and for what reason. I heard that most oil manufacturers need to abide by certain quality certifications, but again that is maybe something that is easy to bypass or not. I just stick with the timed intervals and most times get my oil change before it's due time.

Any of the above manufacturer or any other renowned brand. I'd say more than the brand its the oil specs that are more important, you could be using the wrong spec oil from "the best" and still end up in trouble. For hot climate conditions like this its better to go for a higher weight oil and read up your car manual for oil change interval for dusty climates, you'd be surprised some recommend half the interval for oil changes in extreme duty or hot and dusty climate than their regular change intervals. Because heat is the biggest enemy of oil and it has only a certain capacity to absorb pollutants, dusty and sandy environment just adds to the burden, hence heat and dust use up the oil's life at a faster rate than normal

@Javier M nice vedio. Cloudy atmosphere looks like desert in hill station.

Noted. i will check and update you on this. Thank you very much.

During Manufacturing Toyota uses SAE 0W-20 it seems. They also recommend use of SAE 5W-30 engine oil if SAE 0W-20 is not available. (Source: Toyota User Manual).

From my limited knowledge for a small work I got done from Al Haboor for Pajero, these guys are good. However, they have insanely high prices man.

In my last service that I got done with Mohsen (a guy @Barry recommended), he confirmed he was using fully synthetic oil for 10k interval service on Pajero if I remember correctly. Though I didn't check which brand is being used. I guess next time I should once again check my car manual, confirm exact specifications. Is brand also important then or as long as specifications are fine, we're good to go ?

Hi, it is good to stick with timed intervals for oil drain. the oil game is not at all confusing. only we need to know a few basic which will help us in future to know which oil we are using and what results we can achieve from it. time intervals also depends on your oil filter quality or life. in motor oil some brands refers an oil drain up to 25,000 miles means 40,000 km which I also have experienced in my car but with recommended oil filters and to change oil filters after every 12,000 km. after changing oil filter you can top up the oil with same brand same specification which is already in engine.

2019 Mitsubishi Lancer EX Poised and perfect in every way The global automotive industry suffers from a severe competition – the only way to stay afloat is to make cars at the least cost possible and sell them at prices similar to other vehicles of the same size. Segmentation is killing off great cars, and the Lancer Evolution was one of them. Once a flagship offering, Mitsubishi has now discontinued it entirely. All that remains of the wonderful EVO is its compact saloon brother, the Lancer EX. Now new for 2019, this new car is a ray of hope among enthusiasts. While it's true that the exterior has remained unchanged for many years, it still looks thoroughly modern. This was a futuristic look, and now that the future is here, Mitsubishi will probably never update it. The design is quintessentially Japanese – poised and perfect in every way. Whether it is a highway or an art studio, 2019 Lancer EX is inspiration personified. Step inside and the interiors aren’t modern but the aesthetic is timeless. It is still all plastic but the materials have a soft look throughout the cabin. They are dark, but that complements the air of sportiness and sophistication. Thin chrome lines the air conditioning dials – dainty. The CVT gets paddle shifters which are made from magnesium. The touchscreen is small by 2019 standards, but it is mated to a 710 -Watt Rockford Fosgate sound system for exhilarating fun and enjoyment. There are two engine options and three transmission options. You can have the GLS or GLX models with a 1.6-liter engine which makes 117 hp and 154 Nm, with a 5-speed manual or a 4-speed auto. The better engine is the 2.0-liter which makes 150 hp and 197 Nm, but it is only available with the 6-step CVT in GLS, GLX, and GT trims. The GT is the best-equipped and best-looking car of the lot. None of the trims make for a fast car – 0 to 100 km is possible in 10.5 seconds with the 2-liter and 13.6 seconds with the 1.6 engine. This makes the 1.6 - liter variant about as quick as a stick-shift Mirage. But it is better equipped and no more expensive than a Mitsubishi Mirage. Mitsubishi Lancer Features Rain-sensing wipers Adaptive HID headlamps with cornering adjustments Driver and passenger, driver’s knee, side, and curtain airbags (5-star safety rating in 2015) 351L trunk Sunroof 9-Speaker Rockford Fosgate audio Keyless entry, go, trunk release Mitsubishi Lancer Price in UAE Mitsubishi Lancer GLX - 1.6 liter - 41,900 AED Mitsubishi Lancer GLS - 1.6 liter - 59,000 AED Mitsubishi Lancer GLX - 2.0 liter - 45,000 AED Mitsubishi Lancer GLS - 2.0 liter - 60,000 AED Mitsubishi Lancer GT - 2.0 liter - 67,000 AED Mitsubishi Lancer Exterior Mitsubishi Lancer Interior

Am I being ignorant? After going thru your post i have realized that till date i have not asked my FNG Mechanics about the oil they used for my car/s till date. Is it a blind trust or am i being careless. I have been using A class garage (As per most of the UAE motor Insurer) every time I service my car. Except for the New car which was under service contract, i have not changed it. At the beginning only twice i used local petrol bunk lube services which i was not really satisfied then i moved over to my current garage.

Hi, first of all, check what specification of motor oil is recommended by your engine manufacturer. like which API and SAE? It is highly recommended to use correct oil for your engine if you want to use its full life otherwise the engine will drain very quickly. Mostly in GCC engine manufacturers recommend 5W 30 SM however for GCC model you can go higher for SN full synthetic one. Secondly, as you are more concern about motor oil the same you care you need to give to the oil filter. Oil filter acts as a heart for an engine and if it is choked then not a gold liquid can save your engine.

I vote for Mobil 1 as the best engine oil, over the other brands. My choice is based on my own experience since last 10 years and Mobil 1 quality and engine response always surpassed other brands.

Every time I visit new service center they make me convince of their engine oil is the best engine oil in UAE. I know this is never ending and never satisfying question, but I still like to ask which is the best engine oil brand in UAE available for cars for extreme hot and dusty weather condition. If anyone can rate these brands in their superiority order then it will be nice to know: Total vs Mobil 1 Vs Shell Vs Castrol

Hi guys, I just bought my 2013 3.5 Pajero 5 doors. It's 93k km . I need to know whats the oils and parts that I need to change. Also what's the best for me if I go to Al habtoor service or do it by garages. Thank

GEOLANDAR G039 265 70 16 112 S http://yokohama.ae/tyre-search.php?vtype=SUV/4WD Geolandar is good in my opinion and i have recently installed a set. So far so good. However, i installed the G056 but somehow not able to find on the above website, wonder why though.

@Glanz Lube As im not able to understand technical part of it, Could you please suggest/recommend which oil shall i use for my prado?

Well, 0W 20 means at zero temperature the viscosity is 20 so you can't match both oils. both are completely different. 5W 30 SN you can make with group 2 and group 3 mix base oil whereas 0W 20 SN you can't make without group 5 base oil. the composition is completely different

More specifically it is mentioned that SAE 0W-20 is recommended for cold weather. I assume that means SAE 5W-30 shall be used for UAE cars as the weather is not favourable for SAE OW-20?

Hi, there are many manufacturers making full synthetic and the prices vary from 7 dirhams to 60 dirhams per litre guess the difference? I will open topics and knowledge base here so that members will know which brand or specifications they have to use. I will not advocate any brands as everyone is doing a great job. only you need to know which oil your engine manufacturer is recommending and only you have to use premium quality in that recommended specifications. ask your service guy about oil filters as well because a 5 dirham priced oil filter can damage your engine no matter you are using highly recommended oil. 0W 20 is the best oil, I am also using it. it is not because it is best oil but my engine manufacturer is asking me to use it. all American cars no matter these are Honda, Toyota etc 0W 20 is the recommended oil for them. while in GCC these manufacturers say that use 5W 30 because of some engine changes. however, try to use SN grade or SN Plus in these API

Hi, once I visited Toyota dealership and asked for their warranty card. while reading the details I pointed out that the engine manufacturer is clearing mentioning that use motor oil with specification 5W 30 SN then why are you referring your clients to use your labelled motor oil which is inferior to recommend one. which was I guess 5W 30 SM Semi-Synthetic. they had no answer and in the end, suggested me to talk with their management. so would you like to give your car on which you have spent thousands of dirhams and which is your asset to these business oriented people to run it for you? i guess no

Hi, thank you so much for your responses and sharing your experience on this topic. it is always good to know your engine of a car and what it needs and how we can use its optimum life with performance. Oil runs like blood in engine and Oil Filter act as the heart for the engine. My experience is that sometimes people really care about motor oil which they are using but don't think about oil filter which can also destroy the engine within a few thousands of kilometres. it is also recommended to know which oil filter we are going to use for our engine. normally the oil filters which are available in the market can run up to 5,000 km to 7,000 km which every oil manufacturing company gives the guideline to drain the oil and change the filter. every oil evaporates on a certain level of heat producing in the engine. some oils have a high temperature of evaporation and some have less. it can be seen which we keep on checking the oil level and it shows some less amount while checking on the dip stick. so in short we must know why we are paying 300 to 400 dirham against 100 dirhams and what benefits we are enjoying for it

@Gaurav yes Inshallah will soon join you guys for an event, might be fun Thanks all for your inputs. Will update my final decision once it's done in a day or two, whether Geolandar G012 A/T or Geolandar G056 H/T. Spoke to Future Tyres guy also and he's saying yes A/T is best for off-road but some customers get annoyed with the noise on it while driving on road. Let's see!

The best engine oil is the oil that is fulfilling the specification recommended by the engine manufacturer. We often use motor oil which hardly matches with recommended API and SAE. The new engine must use full synthetic which is SN so that the life of the engine can achieve its maximum level along with its performance. Mostly American cars use 0W 20 whereas European cars refer 0W 40 however in GCC it is recommended to use 5W 30. in all above-mentioned grade use minimum SM or otherwise use SN.

About two months back I switched to Kumho Roadventure ATS for my Pajero 3.8. So far it has been good for both on and offroad.

I like to keep it short but seeing different responses, it will get a little bigger. US sites are good to get the specs data like weight and road noise, but over 50% of those tires don't exist in UAE at least the same pattern and design. So they are only useful once you zero down to 2-3 exact pattern, brand, and types and then research to compare. These days I have been seeing ESMA sticker on every tire in UAE to tell the road noise and other specs, that you can use to compare wisely as those standardizations is done in UAE for tires available here. All online tire selling website is at least 100 per tire expensive than the dealers in sharjah tire market. Once you decide what you want, call a few tires shop in Sharjah and get the latest production tire from the cheapest of the shop. You will save at least 400-500 dhs. I'm buying tires from those shops for 15 years and always walk away with the best deal. Future tyre "WAS" good place to go in Ras Al Khor, but as per my and few of my friend's recent experience, they have been overcharging by 200% so I no longer recommend them but no doubt they are professionals. Coming to the tire choices now: Michelin's are my all time favorite, I have used them twice Michelin LTX and Michelin Pilot, both were amazing. LTX used to be A/T tread and very good for sand offroad being soft and lighter and very quiet on road. Michelin rubber is really superior grade but not very advisable if you venturing too much in wadi's as after a little you might cut that soft rubber with stones very easily. @Emmanuel using Michelin Primacy (If I rem correctly) and he can advise more on that specific brand and type. Yokohama Geolander A/T is my current favorite choice as Yoko's have finally figured out the best of three combinations: Road + Sand + Rocks with minimal of road noise, rem I said minimal and not no noise. Any A/T tire will be loud as hell on road due to the tread pattern to be aggressive for offroad and hence result in more road noise. So this trade-off is inevitable if you like one tire to fit both your needs. I'm using G012 version since last 6 years, as my second set running since last two years and they wear evenly too to get you some good miles on them, unlike many other A/T tires which start losing chunks and pieces after the first year of usage. BF Goodrich, has the amazing offroad capabilities but quite heavy and will limit your offroad capability if you are running on the stock engine without any power mods. Secondly, they are quite noisy on the road since I used them last but again someone I met recently said they are not noisy any longer. Either that guy had loud music system or BFG have really changed on road noise, I don't know tbh. Bridgestone dueler and Dunlop Grandtrek is good road tread and not good for regular offroad especially in wadis and rock you might damage them with regular wadi's run. In sand, if you deflate them under 15 PSI, you might pop out them very easily. I have used them both on my Land Cruiser and Nissan Patrol and labeled as king of pop out on every drive.

If it’s good enough for a GT40 or Porsche 917 I think it will be ok for a pajero.

Gulf has been around for a very long time. You might recognise some of these

so this is how intermediate Swaihan looks like this looks super awesome

This is exactly I have done few years back and realized that Mobil1 wins all the time in my case (car + driving style). It's a tad expensive but worth every extra spend when I feel the throttle response and mileage.

Asking which brand of oil is the best out of the three you mention, is like asking which colour of paint is best- red, blue or green. All three brands have both good and bad characteristics, and how well each works depends on the engine, driving style, fuel quality, environmental conditions (heat, dust, humidity), and how well the PCV system on that engine works. The best thing to do therefore is to try all three brands, and see which gives you the best fuel economy and throttle response. You may also find that the engine runs cooler with some brands of oil, so combine all these factors, choose the brand of oil that works best for you, and then stick to that brand and formulation.

I recently had a car in with a few oil leaks in the engine so I started stripping down a few things to see what I could fix and this is what I came across inside the engine. This is the result of using cheap nasty oil. My advice as always, good oil only costs 20 Dhs more. Use it. If you think what you see on the outer parts of the engine looks bad, just imagine how the insides must look. The oil won't be flowing properly and all sorts of damage will be occurring.

Believe it or not, this car actually had an oil change every 10k and there was 70k total miles on the car. The oil the previous garage was using was just shitty. This particular company has over 300 cars and I've just started taking care of them all a couple of months ago. I've come across 5-6 like this and I'm expecting more. I could quite happily estimate that 20% of my time is spent fixing other people's mistakes.

eeewww, this poor engine must have run for 20-30k km with single oil change before reaching to this stage......! Owner's driver license need to be destroyed and make him off the road for at least 6 months.

Here is a little lesson in oil,

I vote for castrol magnatec is the best one out here.