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PREPARATION FOR THE DRIVE AND WHAT TO EXPECT 1) Please ensure that you reach the meeting point on time, i.e., 5:00 AM sharp. If you are late, you would be left behind. 2) Convoy numbering would be posted after 6 pm today. 3) Please spend 15 minutes to go through the Absolute Newbie briefing Video. This would help you prepare for your offroad trip. 4) Once you reach the meeting point, please turn on your radios. We will be using Carnity Channel 2 tomorrow. (446.03125 Mhz). The instructions to program the radio are provided in the below post 5) All traction controls, ABS and Air bags need to be switched off. If it requires pulling the fuse, please do the needful. Incase of any queries you can always ask the senior members. 6)Deflate to 15 psi. Incase if you have any difficulties you can approach the senior members who would assist you. 7) Feel free to ask questions on the radio or announce if you have a problem. We shall be starting the drive close to 2nd December Cafeteria, and enter the desert through some nice easy tracks and dunes so that you can get familiar with your vehicle. As the convoy's confidence increases I shall be gradually increasing the level of the drive keeping in mind everyone's comfort level. We will be driving for about 3 hours, practice driving in sand, proper steering control, crossing some dunes, and getting you and your vehicle accustomed to off-roading in general. By 08:30 we will be heading out, where you can inflate the tyres with your compressor. As we would not be exiting close to a gas station, please ensure that you have your own compressor. See you on the sand tomorrow.

DRIVE RSVP IS CLOSED Convoy Numbering 1. Srikumar - Cherokee XJ 2. Topgear - FJC 3. Sreejith Sreenivasan - LR2 4. Ammar Naji - Ford Expedition 5. Vijaysekhar - Wrangler 6. Taha Elghuel - Wrangler 7. Nivin - Xterra 8. h1fny - Wrangler 9. Neale Faulkner - Wrangler 10. Onlyjunaid - Wrangler 11. Vineeth John Joseph - Xterra 12. Jeandre Bezuidenhout - Wrangler 13. Hennie Schoeman - Wrangler 14. Newton Rozario - FJC See you tomorrow.

Totally agree. Touch screens are a real pain, but i also understand partially why Tesla is using them. You can avoid a ton or wiring. I also prefer a simple rotating switch.

I hate anyone putting their dirty stinky feet on my nice clean dashboard. Here’s what happens when you have your feet on the dashboard in a crash.

Thanks @Gaurav for encouraging me to post this topic. It has really widened my knowledge and I'm thankful for all the wise suggestions that you and our fellow off-roaders have shared. It's really motivating to be a part of this club that allows us all to benefit from unbiased advises and learnings from different experiences. Will take all the replies into consideration once I get the car checked, thanks again!

Personally, I also prefer some essential controls to be adjustable via knobs or buttons. Muscle memory will help a lot. Touch screen only for non-essential and elective controls, like radio, maps, phone connection etc. It is an overkill and disaster waiting to happen when something essential like wipers speed need to be adjusted via the touch screen.

A driver in Germany has been convicted of using a restricted electronic device while driving after having a crash. The car is question was a Tesla Model 3. It was raining and the driver was adjusting the speed of the intermittent wipers which can only been done through the touch screen. With so many cars having HVAC systems, radios and many other things controlled through the new wave of touch screens, is it only a matter of time before somebody can be convicted for adjusting the AC or heating whilst driving? Will manufacturers go back to old school buttons and knobs? Mazda are currently trying to move away from touch screens for safety reasons. In the latest models, the touch screen locks when the vehicle is moving. Personally, I'm not a fan of touch screens as it means you have to take your eyes off the road whilst driving, whereas if you have buttons and knobs, you can simply reach down and feel for it without taking your eyes off the road. With touch screens, you don't develop muscle memory for the controls because there is no tactile feedback so you always have to look what you are doing. https://loudlabs.media/techlabs/german-tesla-driver-has-been-convicted-of-adjusting-wipers-via-touchscreen/

Bottas has just renewed for 2021. Looks like Merc wants stability over young blood from their junior program, the likes of George Russell or Estaben Ocon. I can understand why they do it especially since it is the year before the new rules but I prefer that they go for a younger drive in case Lewis retires. https://www.formula1.com/en/latest/article.analysis-6-key-questions-about-bottas-new-mercedes-deal-answered.5uqiWFwogVNNBICB1mXKs7.html

Agree, the 4.0 Fortuner (new model) is pretty good in the sand. The only alternative Mitsubishi has now is the 3.0 Montero Sport which is quite nippy thanks to the 8-speed automatic and not overly heavy, but the Fortuner has more horses and Torque (but costs a lot more too). I would not mind buying a basic Montero Sport in a few years, as they will be easy to find, and maybe the original 220hp can be brought to 250-260 with some mods. But then again i might change my mind another 20 times by the time is there.

Car owners tend to change their wheels for the looks but in off-roading (and any other motorsport), changing the wheels and tires might be the best bang for the buck performance wise (if chosen wisely). Wheels and tires are unsprung weight and has direct effect on your available power. You must ask yourself what you want to achieve. Why would you like to have beadlock wheels? You can go to a lower PSI, but why do you want to go to a lower PSI? Beadlocks are more heavy so it will have direct impact on your car's available power. As Febin said above, do consider the weight, also for non beadlocks. There are many possibilities, bigger/ smaller rim, different offsets, different profile tires, different ratios. It is good that you first ask, I made the mistake of not asking and just trying, if I had done some research on some LC200 fora, I would've saved myself money. If chosen wisely, the sweet spot of; correct offset, not a too big rim with a relative tall sidewall tire, your car's performance will change drastically in the sand. But every medal has two sides, where you will gain something here you'll probably have to deliver something in return, might it be, road noise or fuel consumption. One thing I would consider as well, is the availability of your tires you are going to choose. You might want to go for a overland trip in the future, or cruising to Oman. Keep in mind that an exotic tire size, might not be available in a tire shop somewhere on the road.

But the Car Forum Feed has nothing to do with the offroad club. There are problems that people are facing that they hope to get a solution. Same like a person facing a problem while driving a car on the road. Just because he/she drives a 4x4 doesn't mean they can't ask a question

Well then it's your own fault for doing that! Lol

I know this poor man's difflock technique very well because I have blown my Land Cruiser front differential during one of the desert challenge in 2006 while trying the same stunt. It costed me 4500 diff and labor extra. If you give hi rev in low range gear with brakes on, you will have the same result "UNLESS OTHERWISE" specified that rev up to 2,000 RPM or so.

I just finish my set up with black method wheels and 315/70/17, if I could do something different I would go for method on bronze color those looks beautiful so I recommend you to check it out Another set up that I like it’s the new rubicon wheels with big tires

Montero sport is nothing but a L200 pickup with a station wagon shell on it. And it drives like one too. Just like the Fortuner is a Hilux pickup underneath

Lol yup I think that's the max non jeepers can stand a jeep. I sold my jeep also in around that much time. And all the time I had it. I had to constantly tinker with it. And it was the best well kept full service history British woman expat owner never off-road mechanically solid blah blah blah jeep one could buy and it was still shit. First I had to change the rims because it came with 17 inch bling bling wheels. Once I did that it got the death wobble. Fixed that, overheating issues with bigger radiator and extra fan fixed and lifted it 1.5 inches then everything went crazy. More death wobble had to recalibrate and drop transmission just for a tiny itsy bitsy lift. Still drove like shit. Went back to original tyrevsize and oem steel wheels then it sort of behaved but drove like a pig due to heavy steel wheels Got fed up and got rid of the the POS P.S skipping all the other tiny bullshit it had in that much time. Like temp gauge 3/4th during desert drives ( suppose to be a jeep thing) raised the hood at the back with spacers helped a tiny bit. Also coolant always boiling out after you come to a stop. Turns out the original Mopar radiator cap was shit. So a cheap 10dhs saniya cap which was a tiny bit a more tighter fit did the job. Etc etc etc

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Not really this is popularly know as the poor man's difflock. I myself have tried it a couple of times with mixed results. This is no different than doing a standing burnout and less stressful on the drive train.

This without any precise description will break your front or rear differential in seconds. LO gear torque + Brake = Recipe for 5,000 - 10,000 dhs instant damage. Very surprised to see Hummer putting this in owner's manual without any indicative rev band. With H2 torque I guess anything above 1.5-2.0K RPM will result in instant grinding noise of differential pinion gear.