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  1. Two Way Radio Guidelines Every Off-roader brings his own radio, programmed to the frequencies described in below advice topic. We will not share spare radios or program your radio on the drive. If you need assistance in programming the radio, post a topic on the Carnity website with your questions and we will help you out. Make sure your radio is fully charged. It will be your only way of communication while driving. Before buying, please carefully read below advice so you are informed properly on which model / cost / shops... No radio = No drive. It is an essential tool and you should make sure you bring it on every drive and learn/practice how to use it. Within Carnity Offroad Club we are using a number of frequencies on the two-way radio. This is necessary as we have sometimes multiple convoys driving and broadcasting on the same frequency. With this functionality each convoy can select a channel that they want to use without interfering with others. The 10 radio frequencies are listed below: Below you will find the programming instructions for the most commonly used radios in Carnity Offroad Club. Please get yourself familiarized with your radio, as it's an essential tool for any Offroader, and this device is responsible for establishing clear and life-saving communication while venturing Offroad. If you are planning on buying a radio, make sure it is the UHF version and not the VHF version. We recommend the Motorola/Crony MT777, Crony CN888, or Baofeng UV-5R because of excellent price / quality ratio, Dragon Mart has many models, just make sure it has the ability to set the frequencies manually. Please do not buy a screenless model like the Baofeng 888S as it cannot be programmed without cable and software. Before getting into the real technicalities, some basic info on radios settings that you will come across: *STEP FREQUENCY: on the FM band, frequencies are spaced from each-other at a certain bandwidth. The Step frequency is basically the incremental change in your radio when you turn the rotary knob on top of your radio. When you program the radio to a certain frequency, you will need to make sure the appropriate step frequency has been set correctly. (see on the above frequency list). * PTT: Short for PUSH-TO-TALK: This is the button on the side of your radio that you push when you want to broadcast a message. * MON: Most radios have a Monitor button. When pushed you are basically monitoring the channel. If no-one is broadcasting you will just hear noise. But this is useful to set your desired volume. * SQL or Squelch: To make sure that your radio does not pickup every little signal, the squelch acts as a gatekeeper to only allow a broadcast on your radio when it is strong enough or nearby enough. If you encounter a lot of noise that's being picked up by the radio, try changing the SQL setting a little bit. A higher setting makes the radio less sensitive to noise. * RX and TX frequencies: RX stands for Receiving frequency, which TX stands for transmitting frequency. in Carnity we transmit and receive on the same channels. * DCS / CT codes: These are basically encryption settings that allow a user to make sure only radios with exact same CT codes can listen in on the chatter. As these settings are confusing and complex, they should not be used (CT should not be showing on your display). Programming the Motorola/Crony MT777: Note: This radio has 2 operating modes called "Frequency" and "Channel". To switch between these modes, keep the ENTER button pressed while switching on the radio. Pressing the VFO/MR button while you're in Frequency mode will bring you to the combined mode, which is basically a screen that shows both the channel and the frequency. You can use either one of these modes during operation. To Program the Channels: 1. Make sure your radio is switched off. 2. Press the Moni (black button on top of the orange one on your left side), and MENU key together while switching on the radio. 3. Wait for the set to display SELF (which means manual setup). 4. Press Enter and it will show the Channel number. 5. You can choose which channel to program by selecting it from the rotary selector knob on the top of your device. 6. Once you have the desired channel, press ENTER. 7. Type your first frequency you want to program. 8. Press ENTER on every setting below to go through the advanced settings and verify if they are programmed as following: (If above settings are not correct they can be changed with the rotary knob on the top keep pressing enter until your set displays the next channel to be set). 03=OFF (if a number is showing here, push the *Lock button until OFF appears). 04= Enter the same frequency as the one you want to program. 05= OFF (if a number is showing here, push the *Lock button until OFF appears). 06= OFF 07= ADD 08= HIGH(H) 09= NARROW 10=-------- 9. Repeat from Step 5 to program the rest of your channels. Very useful Youtube video below: method for adding a single frequency later on, without going through the whole SELF programming mode again: 1. Make sure the radio is in Frequency Mode. Type in the frequency you want to program. E.g 446.00625 2. Press MENU and then press the VFO/MR button. The channel number will start to blink. 3. Use the rotary selector knob to select on which channel you want to save this frequency. 4. Press VFO/MR button again to confirm and exit. Keypad can be locked by pushing the * LOCK button for a few seconds. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Programming the Crony CN888: Note: This radio has 3 operating modes called "Frequency", "VFO", and "Channel". You can toggle between these modes by pressing the orange Function button on the top left corner, followed by pressing 1 (Mode). Programming the radio as described below can only be done in VFO mode. 1. Switch on the radio. 2. Press the Function Key (orange button on top left corner). 3. Press 4 (STEP) until it shows 6.25. Press EXIT to confirm. 4. Now type the first frequency you want to program. Eg. 446.00625 5. Now press the # button. The Channel number in the corner of the display will start to blink. 6. Select with the A (up) or B(down) buttons to choose wich channel you want to save the frequency. 7. Press the C button. the radio will confirm by saying "SAVED AS RX FREQUENCY" 8. Press the # button again. The Channel number in the corner of the display will start to blink. 9. Press the D button. the radio will confirm by saying "SAVED AS TX FREQUENCY" Keypad can be locked by pushing the Function button, followed by the *F.L button. Programming the Baofeng UV5-R: When buying a radio like the Baofeng UV5R, many certain frequencies and channels are already programmed into the radio, but these are different from the ones we use in Carnity. As you will be programming 5 new channels onto Channel number 1 till 5, it is important to first delete these existing frequencies stored in those channels. You can do that as following: Step 1: Delete the existing channels from channel 1 till 5: 1- Switch on the radio 2- Press the MENU button followed by the buttons 2 and 8. (Menu 28). 3- Press MENU, and then use the UP/DOWN arrows to select which channel you want to clear. 4- Select CH1 and press MENU again, you will hear "delete channel, followed by confirmed". 5- Now go back to step 3 and do the same for the following channels (CH2-CH3-CH4-CH5). 6- Now all 5 channels are clear and ready to be programmed. Step 2: Set the step-frequency: - Switch on the radio - Press the MENU button and with the up and down buttons select STEP frequency. - Change this to 6.25 and press MENU to confirm. - Press EXIT to go back to the main menu. Step 3 Program the new frequencies in the radio: 1- Press the VFO button. You will hear the confirmation “frequency mode”. 2- Make sure the arrow is on the top line. If not, press the blue A/B button. 3- Type in the frequency you want to save. I.e 446.00625 4- Press MENU, followed by button 2 and 7 (menu 27). You will see MEM-CH. 5- Press MENU and now use the up and down buttons to select the channel you want to save it on. 6- Press MENU again to confirm. Your first frequency is now stored under channel 01. (receiving memory). 7- Press MENU TWICE again to confirm. Your first frequency is now stored under channel 01. (transmitting memory). 8- Press EXIT and repeat from step 3 onwards to program your remaining channels. Note: To program the Carnity backup frequency channel 5, you will need to set the step frequency to 12.5. When done, follow the same steps to program and save it under channel 05. You can either program these channels one by one into your radio, which is the easiest for you later on, or you can just enter the frequency without saving it. Some extra notes: Option 5 in your menu should be on Narrowband. Option 10 and 12 in your menu should be set to OFF (we are not using CT codes). BaoFeng_UV-5R_Manual_(1).pdf
    49 points
  2. So you have decided to become an Offroad Enthusiast by either joining an Offroad-Club, or becoming a Solo Adventurer to explore the UAE deserts ? Then surely the time has come to start investing in the proper offroad gear. Good quality offroad gear will be your biggest help to be self-reliant and to enjoy this sport thoroughly. After all you don't want to be stranded in the middle of the desert with unsafe or unreliable equipment. We have compiled a list of essential tools you should have as per our club levels, and included some recommended gear which we have used in the club with good results. OFF-ROAD FLAG (NEWBIE AND ABOVE) A proper off-road flag is safely mounted with a bracket, or suction cup, and does not fall off on the first windy day. You can either buy a very decent flag like the AOR ones, or go to the nearest dune-buggy shop, or Dragon Mart. A fishing rod with flag also does the job. TYRE DEFLATOR AND PRESSURE GAUGE (NEWBIE AND ABOVE) Deflating your tyres will be a weekly practice, and the accuracy of your tyre-pressure gauge will make the difference between struggling in the sand or floating on it. You can buy them in ACE, Speedex, or Dragon Mart and it is advisable to buy two different models to double-check the accuracy. Most cheaper models work well on normal tyre pressures (35 psi) but start to give inaccurate readings below 15psi. Deflating your tyres can be done with a stem removal tool or a quick deflator. Whatever works for you. How to deflate your tyres is well documented here: FULL-SIZE SHOVEL (NEWBIE AND ABOVE) Next to your Carnity buddies, a proper shovel will be your best friend in the desert.You should get a full-size laborer shovel, and not a small foldable camping spoon/shovel. Buy a shovel with a handle, and a v-shaped tip, you will find them in general hardware shops. Example below is perfect, and will allow you to displace a lot of sand. TWO WAY RADIO (NEWBIE AND ABOVE) While driving with an offroad-club, a two-way radio is essential to communicate with the rest of the convoy and to receive instructions or guidance. In Carnity Off-Road Club, we use two-way UHF radios that are programmable to our frequency list that we have created. Make sure your radio is always fully charged for every drive, and if possible invest in having a second (spare) one. We can recommend the Crony/Motorola MT777 or the Baofeng UV5-R model as both are good radios with excellent price/quality ratio. You will find them in Dragon Mart. Do not buy a walkie talkie without a display, as these will be mostly pre-programmed and the frequencies cannot be changed unless you purchase programming software and cables. NOTE: THE BAOFENG 888 RADIOS THAT WE HAND OUT AS SPARE RADIOS WILL NOT WORK OUT OF THE BOX WHEN YOU BUY THEM AS THEY HAVE DIFFERENT FREQUENCIES. YOU CAN PROGRAM THEM BUT YOU WILL NEED PROGRAMMING CABLE, A LAPTOP, AND SOFTWARE CALLED CHIRP. IF YOU ARE NOT INTO THESE TECHNICAL THINGS, PLEASE STICK WITH BUYING THE CRONY/MOTOROLA MT777 or BAOFENG UV5R AS THESE CAN BE EASILY PROGRAMMED YOURSELF WITHOUT CABLES OR SOFTWARE. Instructions on how to program the Motorola/Crony and Baofeng you will find in below post: FIRE EXTINGUISHER AND MEDICAL KIT (NEWBIE AND ABOVE) Both items every vehicle should have, offroad or onroad. You will find DRY POWDER extinguishers at the petrol station or hardware shops, and a medical first aid kit at general hardware stores or pharmacies. Make sure they are immediately accessible in case urgently needed. 12V AIR COMPRESSOR (NEWBIE AND ABOVE) After every offroad drive you will need to re-inflate your tyres. If you are lucky to be nearby a petrol station you can slowly drive your way up there, but in many cases you will be miles away from one. You will find air compressors from 150 up to 2500AED as per your budget and liking, but if you are using it on a weekly basis you will find that sticking with a well-known brand like TJM, Bushranger, ARB really makes the difference. You can be lucky with the Camel branded compressors in Dragon Mart too, but do not expected any warranty on them. ACE, Speedex has the branded ones, and also a few cheaper options. GPS DEVICE (INTERMEDIATE AND ABOVE) From a dedicated GPS device such as the Garmin 276cx, or a smartphone with your favorite navigation app, it will be important from Intermediate level onwards that you start practicing navigation, putting waypoints, entry and exit points, and seeing the difference on your map between for example long range dunes and small technical dunes. Apps like MotionX for IOS, MyTrails, and GaiaGPS are very popular and allow you to properly prepare for your route / track beforehand. RECOVERY ROPE WITH 2 SOFT SHACKLES (INTERMEDIATE AND ABOVE) Recovering stuck vehicles in the desert is a skill, and from Intermediate level onwards you will be able to practice this. There are different types of ropes in the market, and finding the right one might be very confusing. - A Polyester Tow Rope is meant to tow a vehicle on the road, NEVER for off-road recovery. These are the basic tow ropes you will find at the petrol station. - A Webbing Sling is a Polyester rope that you can buy in hardware stores and is meant for industrial lifting, but can also be used as tow rope in specific cases (to re-direct a stuck vehicle with gentle tugs). This material does not stretch. - A Snatch rope (flat) or Kinetic Recovery Rope (round) is a rope made of Nylon that allows to stretch for about 20%, and is extremely useful for offroad recovery as the stretching creates a kinetic energy and the recoil effect helps in recovering vehicles stuck in the sand. When choosing a kinetic recovery rope, you should select a rope that has a breaking strength of 2-3 times the weight of the vehicle you will recover. For example; if you recover a Nissan Xterra which weighs 2 ton, the breaking strength of the rope should be at least 6 tons. Most recovery ropes have 10-15 Tons breaking strength. The reason for this is that the forces involved when a vehicle is completely stuck in the sand are far higher. Our club uses both the Viking Kinetic rope as well as the AOR Kinetic recovery rope with excellent results. The Viking rope costs about 350AED with a bag and 2 soft shackles included, while the AOR kinetic rope costs about 390AED without soft shackles. (AOR soft shackle cost 155 AED per piece). A shackle is a device that allows you to connect your rope to your tow point. These used to be mostly rated metal D-shackles, but nowadays the soft shackles, that were well known in the sailing world have become in offroading too. A soft shackle will be safer to use as the less metal involved the better during recoveries. More information on using these Kinetic recovery ropes and shackles can be found in below post: FLOOR JACK WITH WOODEN BOARD (ADVANCE AND ABOVE) A hydraulic floor jack in combination with a strong wooden board will allow you to safely lift a vehicle in the desert to replace a tyre or fix a pop-out. We do not advise using scissor jacks or bottle jacks, as these are only acceptable for on-road and will topple over in the sand or possibly even on a wooden board. A good hydraulic floor jack should be at least 2T capacity and a swivel neck (rotating handle) will allow you to put it further underneath the vehicle and still be able to lift it. JZX or YATO has good hydraulic jacks. Do not buy the cheapest one available as the consequences or risks when the floor jack collapses could be very serious. A strong wooden board should be at least 1 1/2 inches thick and made of natural wood and not MDF or plywood. A good example is scaffolding planks. It should be large enough to fit your hydraulic jack on it. TOOLKIT AND FLUIDS (ADVANCE AND ABOVE) A toolkit will come in handy for a multitude of reasons, in case a vehicle breaks down, to fix a loose exhaust, flag, or bumper, but can make you a hero if you are able to fix your vehicle instead of leaving it behind in the desert. Following items are recommended: A small basic multimeter, set of spanners up to size 24, some adjustable spanners, a hacksaw, hammer, set of screwdrivers, some electrical tape, duct tape, cable-ties, some spare car fuses, spare valves and stems, tie down straps, socket wrench set and some pliers. Also a tyre repair kit will be coming in handy, together with some thick gloves, and battery boost cables. Following fluids are recommended: - Engine oil: 1-2 liter - Coolant: 1-2 liter - ATF Transmission oil: 1 liter - A can of WD40 or penetrating oil - Spray-can with water to cool down an overheating engine.
    31 points
  3. When joining Carnity Off-road Club, there will come a time that you’ll need to start looking for deflators, pressure gauges, compressors, flag, etc... Dragon Mart is a wonderful shopping paradise but finding the item you need is indeed sometimes a daunting task. So I listed below some shops and their locations that might be of help: Off-road Flag Section: EA Address: EA01 Shop: S&D Autoparts Deflator tool and pressure gauge Section: EB Address: EBD05 Shop: Taizhou Yian Trade Two Way Radio Lots of options, but the BA section has the most shops. Look out for the big CRONY labeled shop. They have the Motorola MT777 = 120 - 150 AED. Crony MT777 = 80 - 120 AED Also the Baofeng UV-5R is still popular and easy to find. Costs about 75 AED. Floor Jack & Tools JZX shop in section EA, no. EAA25 2 Ton floor jack with swivel neck = 120 - 150 AED (Recommended) Tool kit = 50-100 AED Compressor Mainly available in BA section. Have a walk and haggle a bit. The Camel logo brand is pretty good. Available in single or twin cylinder model. Single cylinder = 100 -150 AED Twin Cylinder = 150 -200 AED (Recommended) Please take note that we are not affiliated with these shops nor do we give any guarantees about their items. We solely provide the location where you can find these most common items to save your time.
    28 points
  4. Recovery Gear Below is the most comprehensive list of all commonly used off-road gears and basic recovery tools - this is the stuff everyone needs and it has to be easily accessible at all the time, while driving in off-road terrain (Sand and Rocks). MANDATORY KIT AIR COMPRESSOR Bush Ranger Black Max, ACE @ Festival City. Also available Pro Air, Max AirII at different price points. ARB Air Compressors from ARB Abu Dhabi (call up and order, will deliver C.O.D) Chinese stuff at Dragon Mart - if you're feeling lucky. Other compressors at Carrefour/other Hypermarkets or car accessory shops are not really recommended. RADIO / WALKIE TALKIE Motorola, allegedly 20 mile radius, from the small Sabka shops Dhs.325 Dragon Mart, higher output (will fry your ears), cheaper, clearer. TOW ROPE / SNATCH STRAP Bush Ranger heavy duty tow (dhs.200 or so) or Pro snatch kit (Dhs500+) from Ace Viking rope from Robbie's Garage (to the left of Times Square, Shk Zayed Rd) Dhs265, I think. Kinetic Rope from International Trading Co. Opposite Everhot Water Heater - Al Qusais. SHACKLES Are available at ACE, 3.0 T to 4.75 T very reasonable rates, make sure you get the shackles with the screw and not the pin-type shackles. SAFETY FLAG - available from shops that sell Quads, alternately use Fishing Rods fastened with a bolt to the spare tyre rig, also available is the FireStik range at Robbies which is very expensive but very neat and professional). You may also want a gutter-mount for the same (if your vehicle has a rain gutter). SHOVEL Fancy chome-plated stuff rom ACE or other accesory shops - expensive & of debateable utility. Bushranger tri-fold shovel with its own cover - about as expensive, easier to carry. Regular construction shovel from a hardware or construction material store - Dhs.25 and much more effective but not so compact. Fiskars super-lightweight camping shovel. Most expensive but is also lightest (you want to carry sand, not metal!). I recommend this, but this is very budget-sensitive. BASIC FIRST AID KIT Available at all pharmacies, auto kits available at ACE and some specialized offroad joints, you can also put one together yourself or your vehicle may have one supplied with it. Should contain: Gauze (Large, Medium & Small sizes) Sticking Plaster & Adhesive Strips (Band Aid variety) Surgical Cotton Surgical Spirit/Antiseptic Basic medication/ointment for minor cuts and bruises Burnaid other burn treatment Scissors & Forceps Cotton Buds BASIC TOOLKIT + FIRE EXTINGUISHER + JUMP STARTER CABLES + USABLE STEPNEY HYDRAULIC SCISSOR FLOOR JACK & STRONG WOODEN PLATFORM/PLANK (or HiLift Jack base) An alternative is the very expensive and equally heavy but neatly packaged Exhaust Jack Series II (dont buy Series I) from ACE, its upwards of Dhs.800. A Hi-lift jack is something a lot of people like to carry prominently like some sort of badge, but this is of doubtful utility in our really sandy terrain. Very useful in Wadis etc. DEFLATION KIT Valve remover for tyres - most tyre shops Dhs.10/- Pen-type pressure gauge (marked in PSI, not LbFt) - Dhs.25/- most car accessory shops. Other gauges are also available, the pen-type stuff is considered good. Use trusted brands like Milton, PCL, ARB, Victor, Rolson or Monkey grip. 4 Spare Tyre Valves to replace any lost while deflating. CAN FOR ADDITIONAL FUEL FOR LONG TRIPS Available from Ace Hardware, good for long distance trips where you are not sure about the petrol stations on the way, very handy in places like Liwa. YOUR VEHICLE SHOULD HAVE RECOVERY POINTS - FRONT AND REAR. OPTIONAL ADDITIONS Collapsible water can from ACE (Dhs.35 or so). Cool box with ICE (also useful for medical emergencies) and fluids of your choice (for more guidance, ask Kash). Cargo Net & Elastic Tie-downs to keep things securely fastened. GPS - Make sure it can store way points, record a track and pay the track back in reverse. Miscellaneous stuff that you should never need, but would want to keep handy - tire sealant gel/foam/goo, radiator leak-stopper (powder that you pour into your leaky radiator), exhaust leak fix (for small leaks, not cracked exhausts), flashlight, etc from ACE. Just to be on the safe side, one small 5 litre fuel can (Dhs.25 from any petrol station) and a manual siphon hose to borrow fuel from others (15-20 bucks). Duct Tape, Insulation Tape, Bush Knife/Pen Knife & Plastic Zip Ties. For camping trips - collapsible chairs/tents/sleeping bags/lanterns/BBQ kits/use your imagination. Small bottle of concentrated liquid Camp Soap or Dettol Hand Sanitizer + lots of Kleenex/tissue rolls. Working gloves to handle hot stuff in the engine bay + cloth/cotton waste. AAA or IATC Assistance as a sort of insurance for major breakdowns. Hope this helps. Please let us know if you need assistance or further information.
    24 points
  5. Basic Guide to Self-Recovery For newbie here is the recommended to read beginners guide to off-roading before you jump to reading this topic. We have already looked at the very basics of driving in the desert, lets look at another aspect. Sooner or later you will experience another, but not so pleasant but inevitable facet of this sport or hobby. Getting stuck, now we will talk here about that or to be more precise, how to get yourself unstuck without any help or if you are on your own, which by the way is not a very good idea to start with, specially if you've been just introduced to this activity. Getting bogged down happens all the time, whether its your first day in the desert or your a seasoned professional with the scars to prove it. The very first thing to do is NOT to panic. You are not the first one this has happened to and your not going to be the last. Panicking will only make the situation worse, so its always better to keep a calm and collected mind to help you through this ordeal. The other thing is to realize that your actually stuck and leave it at that and learn to accept that, yes, you are stuck and not going anywhere anytime soon. I have noticed many a times that someone does not accept the fact he is stuck and making the situation worse, What usually happens is the individual goes into denial mode and thinks that power alone can help him out, forgetting that his old friend momentum has abandoned him because he was mean to it. Then you see huge trails of sand being thrown up as he or she digs deeper into the earths crust. You see every time a wheel spins in a stationary position is displaces more sand underneath it effectively acting as a drill, remember our goal is to stay on top of the sand not under it, so this ego push will make things worst. Most of the times by simply reversing out to where you came from will solve the problem, specially when you have a slightly rising gradient in front of you. But start of with the gas slowly making sure not to spin the wheels, a little slip here and there is acceptable. Best way to do this is to pop your head out of the window or simply open the door and peek at your wheels. The advantage of this is two fold, first you can see your tires and second very quickly you'll learn not to spin them as doing so sends a tons of sand in your direction and fill the interior of your car with sand. Also before you do this, its best to step out of your vehicle and analyze the predicament you've gotten yourself into. This gives a good idea of what exactly needs to be done next. One effective technique and one that I personally feel is dying out is the art of rocking. No its not some kind of ritual dance to appease the sand gods so they will let you free from their clutches. It is pretty much what it says. You literally rock your car out. This usually works best if you are knee deep in it and on relatively flat surface, has limited to no effect if the car is stuck sideways at a sharp angle. This works best if your driving a manual transmission but not totally ineffective on autos too. First thing to do is engage low ratio as this gives you more torque and you shall require oodles of it here. In low gear now bring the clutch to it's friction point, and I do hope you know what that is, if not look it up. Just when you feel the car is about to move, press it back in, just before it stalls. You don't need to use the gas pedal here. You might even stall a few times but its perfectly OK to do so, try again. Now once you do this you'll realize that the car gets a slight jolt like some one just gave it a wallop. Do this a few times and you'll feel with every movement of the clutch the car gets more movement than the last. What is happening is your disturbing the sand that has a death grip around your tires. With every jolt the car is trying to make forward, some of that sand is moving into place where your tire used to be, all the while making some space for the tire to move about. After a few attempts in one direction change gear, if you were in 1st put it in reverse and vice versa. Now this pushes the sand on the other side of the tire. All the while you will see your movements getting bigger and bigger gradually, now the trick is to keep the clutch engaged just long enough to move the vehicle as much as possible before it stalls out and you will see the car has now started to rock. What is happening now even if you have half a foot or less of travel in either direction is, sand is sliding in when you move and when you go over it the weight of your vehicle is compacting it, so you will slowly start to rise out of the sand. Sometimes the surface could be flat or the sand coarse and not sliding in at a fast enough rate or not at all. Now what you will do is what many will find extremely odd some might even disregard it. Pile up sand on your tire sidewalls. When I mean pile up, I don't mean bury your entire tire, just till sidewalls should be enough and you might have to repeat this. When you do this and rock that sand pile flows into that little tract your making like a small bulldozer and slowly the elevation starts to get higher. Now that you've got a good rocking motion going for you, you can feel your almost free. Now get the timing right on the edge of your swing, throttle it down and most of the times you will jump right out, sometimes you might misjudge it or the sand is playing tough, you might have to start over. Another thing to keep is mind is you have to make sure you are not grounded. This is when any other part of the undercarriage i.e chassis, differential etc is in contact with the sand, even if by a little. You'd be surprised how stubborn sand can be sometimes. Best to clear your car to such an extent that nothing other than your wheels are in contact with the ground. For an automatic rocking is less effective simply because of lacking a clutch, and not being able to give those life saving initial jolts. What one does is play between D and R. D a little movement forward, the same in R. Do this a few times and see if your getting any movement in any direction and if only in one direction, then play with that side first and then slowly going in the opposite direction. The concept is the same but just takes longer and your not rocking, rather paving your way out. You can try and achieve a rocking motion by alternating between a gear and N, but this is not recommended. Also keeping in mind not to over do it and automatic transmissions are prone to overheating, give it a little rest in between tries by simply putting it in park or neutral to cool itself down. Another way if your driving an automatic or you cannot rock for whatever reason. Is crawling. Now this is different and nothing like rock crawling. Crawling is basically struggling and fighting your way out. More like a battle with the sand to show it whose the boss, but don't get too cocky here, mother nature always has the upper hand. You might win the battle but will always loose the war. First of all is see if there is a downhill slope in any direction, even a very slight one, always remember to never underestimate the power of gravity. Similarly aim away from any uphill slopes, yes even very tiny ones and this goes for almost all types of situations where you get bogged down. How to crawl, very simple but can be physically strenuous at times. As always engage low ratio and apply differential locks if you have them. Now if the down hill slope is behind you engage reverse or forward if in front, first we have to get it going, then if it is on any one side we try to come out of it. You have to give it enough throttle that your wheels start to spin slowly, again stick your head out of the window for the two reasons mentioned above. Usually this is in between 1500 to 2000 rpms. Initially you might have to go a little over just to get the ball rolling, easing back down once you do. I don't think I need to mention again that you do not want to be spinning them as if your doing a burnout, just keep it steady. Now while that is happening, do full lock to lock turns with your steering wheel from left to right and than from right to left again. Do it with a little enthusiasm and not as if granny is trying to parallel park. You might notice that front wheels might stop turning between those lock to lock turns but that's OK. Keep at it. What is happening here is that your oscillating wheels are clearing out loose sand from its path and depending in which direction you are moving either pulling or pushing your car. Of course the rear wheels are also helping. Also if you got mates with you a little push also helps out a lot. By this time you should have some kind of movement. At first it could come is short bursts, but keep at it. If you notice you are getting lateral movement only within a specified arc of the steering i.e only half a turn in either direction and rest of the movement of the steering wheel is pretty much doing nothing. Then limit the the turns to that much. Trying out complete lock to lock turns again in the middle to see if the situation has changed or you lost movement in the your intended direction. If the downhill slope your aiming for is on one side then steer more on that side. Limiting turning to the opposite side. If your lucky and there is a downhill slope close by you will feel the car is starting to struggle less as it tries to free itself and gravity giving it a good helping hand, this is when you start to give it a little more gas. this is also when you realize how even a slight slope helps. Slowly but surely if you don't over spin you tires and keep at it, your vehicle will come to a harder patch of sand and now all you have to do is keep going until your well clear. And of-course when all else fails, use your trusty shovel and a little bit of elbow grease. But know how to use it wisely don't just go about it, a little shoveling in the right place goes a long way, rather than a lot of shoveling in the wrong place. First of all make sure as mentioned earlier nothing other than your tires should be in contact with the ground. If there is a build up of sand in front or at the back of any of the tires, clear that out as well. Once you've done that try to break free if it doesn't work the first time see where the problem is and shovel a little more and give it an another shot. One type I will not cover in detail here as it is a subject all on its own is when you get stuck sideways, only the very raw basics as it is always advisable to get help from others first, only if your by yourself and you have no other option. The simple aim here is you want either the nose or tail of the car to point downhill as much as possible. If it is very steep slope with very loose sand and your tires dug in quite deep on the down side, in that case call for help. If it is not that steep, or high and the sand is not all that soft and your not dug in too deep, then you can try to get out of that situation, but raise caution again if your not 100% confident of what your doing it is best to ask or call for help. Anything over 30 degree of tilt I would leave it alone, more experienced drivers might attempt steeper angles but they know what they are doing and do not try to emulate them. Thing to do here is see which side of the car is pointing more down and has a clear path that is no obstructions like bushes. You want to go in that direction. Sometimes you could land up in what will once again have your car stuck, i.e: a ditch or pocket but being stuck level in a ditch is any day better than being stuck sideways on a slip face. Try to crawl out first but of course not steering up in this case. If you feel your getting some kind of movement then keep on going if not, give it up. Assess the situation very carefully and correctly and then you might want to physically move some of the sand out of the way and try again but very very careful and cautious as sometimes that sand on the lower side wedged up against your car is the only thing keeping it from rolling over. So if you disturb that you could end up in a world of hurt. And last but not least as every stuck is unique and requires its own set of solutions to get away, sometimes you will have to use one of the techniques mentioned here sometimes all of them, or even more, never give up on ingenuity, but always step out and access your situation before you start trying.
    22 points
  6. When starting as an off-roading enthusiast in UAE, you will come to hear about deflating your tyres, and setting your tyres to the right tyre pressure is one of the first things you will need to learn to master. The main reason for deflating your tyres is to obtain a longer footprint in the sand, and that enables you to drive on the sand, instead of digging into it. Tyre pressure is defined in PSI (pounds per square inch) or Bar. You will find both readings on your pressure gauge. In UAE most people use PSI, and the gas station compressors also use the PSI identification. Below you can see the corresponding PSI and Bar readings. As a beginner level offroader, you should reduce your tyre pressure to about 15 PSI. This is low enough to enable you to drive in the dunes without the risk of the tyre coming off the rim. This 15PSI is also perfect for on-road-tyres. After a few drives, and depending on the terrain, or if you have offroad tyres, you can slowly deflate further down to 10-12 PSI. Take note that the risk for having a pop-out will increase, so don't be afraid to post your questions on the Carnity website or consult one of the marshals if you are not sure about your tyre pressure. There are different ways of deflating your tyres, and each have their advantages and disadvantages. The more you will practice, the sooner you will find out what works best for you. How does a stem valve looks like ? The stem valve is consisting out of 3 pieces. The body, that is made of flexible rubber, the core, and the valve cap. Take note of the following: - The rubber valve body wears out over time. Once you start to see cracks, it is advisable to get it replaced at the nearest tyre center. - The valve core is a tiny component with a small rubber gasket. If you remove them on a weekly basis, the gasket slowly wears out or the core can even break. Carry 5-10 spares in your vehicle. The tyre center often give them for free. - The valve cap keeps dirt and sand from entering into the valve, so it's advisable to always screw the cap back on. The process of deflating / inflating goes by either pushing in the valve core, which allows air to be released, or by removing the valve core, which is a much faster option. How to check the tyre pressure ? Verifying your tyre pressure is really easy. Get yourself a pressure gauge, and push it against the tyre valve, or screw it on (depending on the model). You will see the reading in PSI or Bar. The digital ones are fine, but one day the battery will be empty, so a good old analogue is preferred to have as well. PS if you find that your gauge has difficulties reading the tyre pressure, and you really need to push it hard onto the valve, this is an indication that the valve core is worn out. Replace it with a new one and you will see that this will solve your problem. Which tools to deflate and how much time will it take ? 1) Set of keys, a rock, or anything you might find in your car (+/- 15 mins) PROS: CHEAP and plenty of stuff available CONS: Takes a very long time which you could use for a smoke or a chat and risk on damaging the valve stems. 2) Valve Chucks (4-5 minutes) Buy 4 of them and stick them on all tyres simultaneously and then wait about a few minutes (as per your type and size of tyre) to arrive at around 17-18 psi. Then take one tyre at a time and use your pressure gauge to further decrease and finetune the pressure of each individual tyre. PROS: Fast and Cheap CONS: none that i know off. 3) Stem removal tool (2-3 minutes) Available in most hardware shops. Enables you to remove the valve core stem so the tyre pressure comes down very fast. PROS: Very Fast and Cheap CONS: Be careful not to lose the stem as it can blow out. So taking some spare is advisable. Be careful not to deflate too much as it really goes fast. Use a stopwatch and learn to find the perfect timing when to screw it back in, and then double check with a pressure gauge. 4) Rapid Tyre deflator and pressure gauge ( 4-5 mins) This tool enables you to loosen the stem, quickly deflate and immediately take a pressure reading. PROS: Professional tool for reasonable price, pressure gauge and deflator in one tool. CONS: Might take a bit of practice to get the hang of it. The fake chinese ones are fairly unreliable. As with all tools and gear, we advise you to practice a bit at home to become familiar with them. It is also recommended to carry two pressure gauges, so you can compare them with each-other and double check your readings. Often we have seen pressure gauges giving accurate readings at high pressures (35) but very inaccurate results at 10-15 PSI.
    21 points
  7. Top 3 off-road mistakes that driver makes in the UAE People assume driving off-road is a lot easier due to no rules and restrictions as compared to driving on the road. That may be true to a certain extent, but after a while it might get messy if certain rules aren’t followed. Off-road freedom is awesome, but you should always remember these three MAJOR off-road mistakes that every experienced and in-experienced off-road drivers come across in the UAE. By the way, all these 3 rules apply for desert, mountain, small drive - overnight drive, beach sand & sand dunes. So by remembering these 3 golden rules you will save yourself from 75% of the off-road threat that may spoil your enjoyment or cost you some expensive repairs. It's always good to read little bit more on how to drive off-road before you embark with your most capable 4x4 vehicle. If you are new to off-road then you should listen to people advice, see what others are doing and learn how to negotiate with various off-road obstacles. Deflate, deflate and deflate: No car in the world is capable of driving off-road without deflating. You might get away with few 100 meters without deflating, but eventually you will get stuck. Yes you need to deflate in sand and on rocks as well. For sand, ideal is to deflate to 15-18 PSI as per terrain difficulty and also as per the temperature (deflate more in summer, when sand is loose). Maximum you can deflate to 12 PSI (not lower) if you are in very challenging terrain like Liwa, Sweihan or Al Wagan sand dunes. For wadi's and rock crawling you need to deflate lesser up to 22-25 PSI as compare to sand. In wadi and rocks little deflation help in better traction by increasing the footprints while crawling and absorb LOT of shocks on loose gravel or rocky terrain, while driving. Plan your stop: About 90% of off-road stuck happen due to stopping in wrong places. Always choose the safe spot to stop, and stop slowly. People driving in sand dunes while climbing up and down the dune, get tempted to stop in amazing scenic spot, but when they start again they get stuck. Don't stop on uphill, sideways and on loose sand which will make it difficult for you to move the vehicle again. When in motion, use that momentum to choose the flat, hard spot (as much as possible) so that moving again is easy. Stopping hard with harsh brake will dig you in the sand and moving again will be even more difficult. In the inevitable situation if you brake hard, then go backwards few meter and gain momentum to drive further. Driving in sand is very simple physics that needs common sense more than an ego of being an owner of "most powerful car" and "most expensive car". Take it easy and be ready to go back little bit and start again if you are stuck in a difficult spot, try to find work-around than forcing your way in because mother nature is sometimes more stubborn than you are. For rock climbing, crawling and wadi passage plan your stop carefully so that you can start back safely and avoid any excessive wheel-spin or slippage of your vehicle. In rocks while negotiating with big boulder (stones) you need more of patience and external help than too much gas and distractions. External help means to have your friend or family person outside the car who can guide your exact tire movement (very slowly) and help you step on safe spot and pass through. Don't panic when you are stuck: The beauty of off-road driving is EVERYONE will get stuck, whether you are a super sales achiever, manager, leader, CEO or the VP. The idea is to stay calm and "DO NOT PANIC". Majority of off-road stuck are very minor and you can recover yourself in less than a minute if you are calm. If you panic and give too much acceleration it will dig you deep in sand and might dislocate your vehicle more in rocks. When vehicle is not moving, first attempt is to try reversing immediately and seeing what is blocking so that you can avoid it. If reverse is not possible, then step out and identify the situation, have few sips of water and you will get creative in thinking different ideas to get out. If you are stuck in wadi's and mountains, you can probably move few smaller rocks aside by hand and make your way or sometime you can place smaller rocks under your tire and use them as a stepping stone. In sand stuck, if vehicle is not moving engage your Lo-Gear (4WD lo-gear) and start with little aggressive acceleration up to 2500 RPM (ONLY) and that too in quick short intervals (no full gas for long stretch). See if it helps moving your vehicle few meters or even centimeters, then repeat the same in front and reverse several times and make little movable path and when you have a good stretch, then take off with more acceleration up to 5000 RPM (sometimes even full gas). Idea here is to avoid full gas in beginning as that will dig you down and once you have little movable path and vehicle is in motion for 5-10 meters and you give more or full acceleration, it will help you cross that climb, loose-sand or uneven spot more easily. If everything fails as per self-recovery, call for help and don't dig yourself deeper by too much excessive self-recovery, as that will make the situation worse for other car to pull you out.
    21 points
  8. This tutorial will describe the safest techniques to recover a vehicle from the desert. We will try to cover all scenarios and focus on the safety aspect. Although many offroaders have already learned the art of off-roading in the UAE desert, performing recoveries is a skill in itself and needs practice and clear understanding and respect of the dangers involved for the person recovering, the person being recovered, and bystanders. This is a skill that will require practice, and the more recoveries you do from different situations, the more experienced you will become. Whenever you have ANY doubt in during a recovery, you should assess the situation with other senior members and make the decision together. 2-3 people will most likely have a better total overview and will result in a safer recovery attempt. Team work is essential in this sport and all the more during recoveries. 4x4 Recovery Tools D-Shackle or Bow Shackle The D-shackle, also called a bow shackle, is the tool that you will use to connect your recovery rope to the tow-hook of the vehicle (both sides). Since the uprising of soft shackles, and the incidents that happened with poor quality D-shackles, most Off-roaders have now shifted to using soft shackles. A good quality, rated D-shackle can still be useful in some scenarios, and they are safe if the recovery is being done properly, but the risk of this projectile flying through the windshield and potentially killing people has made this shackle a tool only to be used by people who have 100% skill level and know what they are doing. Soft Shackles Soft shackles were first used in the marine/sailing world and have recently become very popular as the perfect shackle to use for off-road recoveries. They are easy to use, and in case they break they will not become a deadly projectile. They are more expensive than metal D-shackles but will last quite long and there is no compromise when it comes to safety. The shackle is made of UHMWPE, also known as Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene, or Dyneema. This synthetic yarn is 10 times stronger than steel. Kinetic Recovery rope or Snatch Strap. A kinetic recovery rope is made of Nylon. The most useful characteristics of this rope is that it stretches about +/- 20% during a pull. This means the “tug” or “jerk” effect of the recovery will be dampened, resulting in less strain on the vehicle’s tow-points. The downside is that because of this characteristic, people sometimes have the tendency to start pulling much harder, which can result in breaking the vehicle’s tow-points or chassis. The recoil effect of this rope creates a massive force and that is why during a recovery we clearly instruct to not exceed 15km/h during recoveries, and to gradually build up the strength of the pull in 2-3 attempts. Do not use this rope for towing a vehicle. Due to the stretch effect it will be difficult to control the towing process, and furthermore you will damage the rope as it needs to recoil and settle after a recovery. When choosing a kinetic recovery rope, you should select a rope that has a breaking strength of 2-3 times the weight of the vehicle you will recover. For example; if you recover a Nissan Xterra which weighs 2 ton, the breaking strength of the rope should be at least 6 tons. Most recovery ropes have 10-15 Tons breaking strength. The reason for this is that the forces involved when a vehicle is completely stuck in the sand are far higher. Our club uses both the Viking Kinetic rope as well as the AOR Kinetic recovery rope with excellent results. The Viking rope costs about 350AED with a bag and 2 soft shackles included, while the AOR kinetic rope costs about 370AED without soft shackles. (AOR soft shackle cost 155 AED per piece). This rope is not the same as a Polyester Webbing sling that you will find in most hardware shops ! Kinetic recovery ropes will cost you about 350-400 AED. A Polyester webbing sling is far cheaper but does not stretch. Performing a Recovery When doing a recovery there will be tasks involved for both the person doing the recovery, and the person being recovered. It is essential that there is a clear communication established over the radio or verbally to make sure the recovery is being done professionally and safely. Bystanders should remain at a distance radius of at least 10m during the recovery process ! Scenario 1: A vehicle is crested Getting crested is an event that happens regularly during off-roading, and by following below steps you can recover a vehicle safely. The individual tasks for each person are mentioned below: # PERSON PERFORMING THE RECOVERY PERSON BEING RECOVERED 1 Will first inspect if the vehicle is front-heavy, back-heavy, and if the car can be maybe recovered without ropes. In many cases it is sufficient to clear the sand from the wheels, from underneath the body of the car, and try the self-recovery method and engage diff-locks. can help with clearing the sand from the wheels 2 When recovery with a rope is deemed necessary, he will attach the rope to a secure “recovery point” of the car. The recovery point needs to be strong enough and in perfect condition. He will not perform recoveries on worn out or heavily rusted towpoints. You need to keep approximately 2m free-play in the rope, so you have space to ramp up the vehicle before the pull starts. 3 Will step inside his car, put on his seatbelts, engage 4LO and put his car in First Gear forward or Reverse depending on the direction he will be recovered. He then announces on the radio that he is belted up, car is running in low gear, and he is ready for the recovery attempt. 4 Get inside his vehicle, engages 4LO, puts on the seatbelt, and asks the person being recovered if he is ready for the recovery attempt. Acknowledges the message and confirms he is ready for the pull. 5 Will drive a little bit forwards and backwards to create a firm track if needed, then starts off with a gentle pull. This is to test the waters and in some cases the vehicle will already come out. 6 If second attempt is needed, he will announce on the radio that he will try again. Acknowledges the message and confirms he is ready for the second pull. 7 Performs second attempt which is slightly more aggressive 8 The car comes out and is bring brought to flat ground where the rope can be safely removed. Follows the recovery vehicle to flat ground Scenario 2: a vehicle is bogged down When a vehicle is bogged down or in a ditch, and needs recovery with a rope, the same scenario as scenario #1 will be applied. You should always clear the wheels and shovel as much as you can to ease the recovery. It is also very important to properly position the vehicle to avoid sharp angles. Again, the rope should have at least 2m free play before starting the recovery. Make sure you position your rope in a zig-zag shape and verify it is not in a knot. Creating a knot in a kinetic rope will damage it beyond repair ! Scenario 3: a vehicle needs to be pulled upwards In the case that a vehicle needs to be pulled upwards, you need to be aware that the force that you will need to apply will be far higher. Some examples: - Towing a 2 Ton vehicle on the road results in a 100kg pull resistance. - Recovering a wheel-bogged down 2 Ton vehicle on flat sand results in 2000kg of pull resistance. - Pulling a chassid-bogged down 2 Ton vehicle on an upward slope of 15° results in 3500kg of pull resistance. (as photo below). This is the main reason why it is so important to clear the wheels from sand and shovel out the body of the vehicle as much as possible to reduce the resistance. Be aware that when pulling a vehicle upwards on a steep angle might damage the front bumper on the vehicle that is being recovered. Especially on slopes of 10° and more, the rope can hit the front bumper. Additional safety measures Safety Strap A safety strap is a very helpful tool to secure the rope or d-shackle during extreme recoveries. In that case it will avoid from becoming a projectile. Tow Point Essentials Most 4x4 vehicles are equipped with proper tow hooks which are welded to the chassis. In more modern SUV's which are less meant for heavy duty use, you will sometimes find a screw-in type of tow hook. These are generally ok for occasional use but for weekly recoveries they will not do as the threading will wear out and eventually they will fly out. Every Offroader should make sure he has proper recovery points on the front and back and that they are in perfect condition. During more extreme recoveries there are additional techniques we apply to distribute the load, such as a bridle rope. This rope basically distributes the load between both towpoints. In which direction should i put my vehicle when i recover someone ? This will depend on a case to case basis: When during the recovery you want to have FULL visual of the car that you are recovering, it will make more sense to attach your rope to your front recovery towpoints. In the case the recovery needs a bit more force, and you have a towbar or stronger recovery points at the back, then it makes more sense to attach your rope to the rear towpoints or tow bar. In the case that you really want to see where your own car is going (in difficult terrain with bushes for example), it will also make sense to perform the recovery by attaching the rope to the back of the car. Can i attach my shackle or rope to a tow ball receiver ? Tow balls are NEVER to be used for recovery purposes. There have been many incidents where the tow ball has come off and became a deadly projectile. DO NOT ever recover a vehicle by connecting to the tow ball !!!
    20 points
  9. Welcome to a basic guide to off-road venturing. Most of us would like to venture into the vast dunes we see on either side of the road, but it can be tricky for the uninitiated to take the first step off the tarmac and into the unknown, Well the first thing to remember is sand is almost like a liquid surface and our main aim is to stay above it, buoyant if you will and not sink. How do we do that? Lowering the tire pressure. How does that help exactly? It increases the contact patch or footprint of your tires. Which basically means now there is more ground to support the weight of your vehicle and you wont sink in as easily. At first stick with 15 - 18 psi, going any lower exponentially increases the chances of the bead of your tire losing its seal with the wheel and letting go of all the air (pop out), usually at the worst time and place possible. Once you understand and gain more experience in the art of desert driving you can go lower according to the vehicle and terrain at hand. But in the beginning lets stick to 15 - 18 psi to keep our first steps in to the desert as trouble free as possible. Now that you have your tires ready for the terrain what do you do now. Full throttle starts are mostly never a good idea but rather gentle acceleration, some situations you need to give it more go than normal, but if starting from a flat and relatively smooth area it is always better to be gentle. Hard starts will usually end up in digging yourself in if not careful. But don't be a granny about it either, remember this is not your typical tarmac surface and gentle blips on the throttle will not get you anywhere. You have to learn to achieve that balance. Once you get going you have to remember what was mentioned earlier, that think of sand as a liquid surface. You have to keep your momentum, in fact momentum is your biggest friend out in the desert and once you have an intimate relationship with momentum, it will help you out in a lot of places. What you initially thought were impassible tracts of sand, momentum will take you through them. Think of this as water skiing, once the boat slows downs the skier tends to start going lower and lower into the water until he finally sinks. Although the desert will not consume you and your car like a body of water but getting back to that speed and motion is going to be real hard, and in some places its just not possible to build that momentum again and you will either get bogged down or have to change route. Don't be afraid to let your engines stretch its legs to keep the momentum going. Most people are afraid to rev their engines too much simply because they are not used to it. Don't change up gears too soon, as the lower rpms will rob the wheels of the required torque to keep the momentum going. But also just don't stick in one gear and let it scream in pain. If you're driving an automatic keep the pedal planted in just enough that it does not shift into the next gear or mashed totally into the carpet that it downshifts and starts to over rev. Automatics in this regards can be a slightly tricky, but they shift gears in milliseconds and keep the downtime in between gears to a minimum. While on a manual you have to be quick and crafty with you changes as too long between gears and you could have broken that fine balance keeping you afloat. Again taking similarities between water and sand, more like ice in this example. Steering. it will not be as sharp or as responsive as on a hardened surface. The vehicle will not turn on a dime. There is a small delay in where you want the nose to point and where the car itself wants to go. Basically you turn and then you wait for the rest of the car to catch up before it actually starts to and this delay gets worse as the speed of your vehicle increases as well as the softness of sand your driving on. So you have to be a little ahead of time, a sort of a mini time traveler if you wish and be able to predict where you want to be going in the next few seconds rather than waiting for the last moment. Sometimes no matter of future predicting ability can help you when gravity becomes in charge, this usually happens on slopes and we will talk about this later. Now that you got your self going, what about stopping? And as always braking, this is different here too, you just can't slam on the breaks. Because all this does is digs your tires into the sand and then trying to move again becomes a hassle if not totally getting stuck. Always gently ease off the throttle and apply the breaks slowly and when ever possible let the car come to a halt on its own. Also makes a big difference where you choose to stop. If your facing uphill and the angle is high enough. 9 out of 10 times you will not be able to carry on forward any further. Always try stopping facing downhill even if it a a very gentle slope. You'd be surprised how well gravity works ! OK, now that we know how to drive on flat surfaces, lets tackle some fun stuff ! Going up a dune ! Sand dunes have two sides to them. One is a gradual climb leading up to what I refer to as the slip face. The other side, a real sharp drop and most of the times there is a nasty bit in the middle of these too. Which I like to call the blade but usually know as the ridge. At first always try to go up the easy side first. Always look for a smooth and straight line up. Which is clear of all bushes, dips and bumps, basically as smooth a ride up as possible. Then comes the tricky bit. Now what you need is power but in very measured quantity. Too less and you won't make it and too much will send you flying off into the unknown on to the other side. So to make it simple, the thing to do is give it as much as you got at first but easing it off or totally letting it go before you go flying off. Three Fourth way up the climb you should be able to guess from the forward momentum of the car that whether you need to keep the pedal mashed into the carpet or you need to back off or totally let go and let your old friend momentum take care of the rest with just some gentle blips from you here or there. Keeping in mind the amount of run up you have had before the climb. If you had enough speed before you hit the dune and specially of it is not a very big one, say twice the height of your car. It would be unwise to mash it as you already had loads of speed and your own inertia will take you over just keep the throttle steady or give it a little more if you feel your losing forward motion on the way up. Sometimes you might even need to slow down if you don't want your bumpers from smashing into the wall of sand. What do you do once your on the top? Well hopefully your not on your own and you are following someone so keep an eye on that car what it does, goes over, turns to one side etc etc and try to replicate the same thing. If your following someone give it sometime before you attempt the climb yourself, in case there is a problem you cannot see. If there is you should see someone come over the top to tell you or if you have a radio you should get an all clear. If your by yourself. Always a good idea to go on foot and see whats on the other side. If you don't make it the first time round. Put your car in reverse and slowly come straight down. Sometimes this can be tricky as you may be a bit disorientated from the angle or which way the tires are pointing. Remember gravity and the delayed steering. Gravity will initially pull you down straight and then the delayed steering will come into play and you could end up sideways on a slope. Also never freewheel down, always keep in gear and let engine braking help you down plus this also helps you keep in control of the situation. Then back up a little further if possible and give it more throttle the next time. Also keep in mind that sand is also a little bit like pie. A hard-ish crust on top with being softer on the inside, and once you drive over a patch you have effectively cracked the crust exposing the softer inner side. So try not to follow your tracks of the previous attempt as you will be treading on the softer exposed sand. The more cars that pass the more churned up and softer it gets. Sometimes it is not possible to get a fresh patch of sand. Only one small exit out of a pocket or only a small crossing on top that is not sharp enough to cross over. In that case try to be on as much undisturbed sand before you are forced to get in line. As with all things, what goes up must come down. Going down is one of the easier parts of desert driving and sometimes the most scarier parts specially if your a beginner, but don't get too easy about it either. Things can still go wrong. First basic rule is too keep you wheels and the nose of your vehicle pointing straight down. This might be harder than it sounds, remember what was mentioned earlier about reversing down a dune, the same thing can happen while going down nose first. Again never freewheel in neutral down a drop and don't brake too aggressively this will cause your nose to dig in and in a worst case scenario cause you flip over, head over heels. Although this is very rare but this might happen. Another phenomena while slithering down a dune is fish tailing. That is when the end of your car wants to over take the front, So it starts to come up sideways from behind. What needs to be done is to make the appropriate steering correction and slightly accelerate for your front to get back up to speed with the back. But gently, over enthusiasm here can end up worse than the initial symptom of fish tailing. If coming down a sharp and steep downward slope engage low 4, 1st gear or D 1 if an auto and then let the car comedown with the help of gravity and engine braking. Better is to start off with less sharper gradients and practice this with being in D 1 or 1st. Once you get used to it you should be able to complete this task in D and just the brakes. But it is always handy to know this technique, In the end driving in the desert is a delicate balance between momentum, gravity and power and only practicing and driving as often as possible can get you better at it and develop a sixth sense about it. You will learn to interpret the feedback of your vehicle and steering wheel is giving you. You will learn to read the terrain better, even before your vehicle gives up on you, you will realize your not going to make the climb and its better to stop or if you have enough momentum left to come back down. But its better to start of with the correct basics instead of getting ingrained with the incorrect technique right from the start. This is just a very basic guide covering only some of the points. Remember nothing beats real world practice. Hope this has been of some help in making that transition from tarmac to sand. Feel free to add or edit or even post questions. I will try my level best with whatever knowledge I have to try to answer your queries.
    20 points
  10. When using your vehicle in the desert, certain electronic aids like Active Stability Control (ASC) or ABS need to be disabled, as the soft and slippery sand will make the traction aids kick in and you won't be able to spin the wheels, which is something that is unavoidable when driving in the sand. Below i will describe the easiest two methods to disable your ABS and Stability Control (ASC) at the same time. You can choose either method 1 or method 2 as per your own preference. Method 3 describes the installation of a kill switch, which will require some work as seen in the video. Method 1: Removing the ABS relay 1) Switch off the engine and open the hood. 2) Locate the relay box and open it. 3) Locate the ABS relay on the upper right hand. Remove it by pulling it out. 4) Close the cover and hood, and switch on your engine. You will have no specific alarms on the dashboard but they will start to flicker after a while (ABS light, ASC light, etc...) and eventually they will stay on which indicates they are completely disabled. Method 2: Unplugging the ABS connector This method obtains the same result, but faster. After unplugging you will have immediately disabled ABS and ASC, hence you will have no restrictions. After your drive, there could be some sand inside the connector, so carefully remove it with some compressed air or a small brush. After your offroad drive, you can open the hood, plug the relay or connector back in, and restart your car. The ABS and ATC dashboard lights will be off again. Method 3: Installing a Kill Switch If you are handy, you can do this yourselves by following below steps. If you are in doubt, get it done by a professional workshop. The most advanced method includes the installation of a special "double functionality" kill switch. These can be bought online but are rather expensive. See functionality below:
    16 points
  11. This comprehensive used car buying guide covers the complete spectrum from the day you first thought of buying a used car till the day you bring that car home. It is designed with clear headlines in a sequential manner so that you can jump to any stage with a quick scroll. We have spent a lot of time and effort in compiling this used car buying guide based on several senior members, experts, mechanics, and technicians advice with their years of experience in buying a used cars, fixing them, and spotting the dodgy repair work. I hope this wealth of knowledge helps you and your family in driving a safer car eventually. 1. Research and prepare your budget If you want to be successful in picking up that perfect deal, you will first need to build a target list of used cars that you are looking for. If you aren't sure about what you want, then check these 7 Car types you should know before buying. Once you have chosen the car(s) that you want to purchase, do some research online and try to find the model/year that suits your budget. Whichever car you shortlist, the very first step you need to check if that car's year model has any recalls safety alerts and bulletin. You can check most of the GCC vehicle recalls, safety alerts and TSB here, and also you can search all newspaper websites one by one for recalls verified by the United Arab Emirates Ministry of Economy. You should check the theoretical fuel consumption of the car with the distance you travel every month to factor in your fuel estimate. Be prepared that based on your driving style, this could be at least 15-20% higher. If fuel cost is a concern for you, then you can check 30 Fuel Saving Tips For Saving Over 30 Percent On Fuel Cost called Hypermile: Extreme Energy Efficient Driving. Apart from the car cost and fuel consumption, there are a few more costs involved that you need to know before making up your mind about which impact the Real cost of car ownership. Once you select your car based on your needs, research, and liking, it's always advisable to take a second opinion from a genuine car expert or a person who has owned a similar car in carnity car forums. Look how Avinash took the real good advantage of discussing his car buying need with unbiased car experts and owners and finally changed his mind from buying a Jeep Wrangler TJ to Nissan Xterra. The people who have owned a similar vehicle are the best persons to advise instead of your social friends, family, or salesperson at a car dealership. Buying a used car will probably mean that it needs some attention to bring it back to the condition that you really want. Consider replacing tires, having the full maintenance done, and bringing in the car for detailing and polishing will add to your total expenditure, so be prepared when setting your budget. When going for luxury cars like BMW, Mercedes, and Porsche, be prepared to put aside a bit more than if you’d buy a Japanese or US car. Maintenance and parts on luxury cars cost a lot more. Same way when considering a 4x4, there are more parts involved and higher fuel consumption you need to factor too. To have some guidelines on your budget, check these 3 Key factors for assigning next car budget. 2. Where to search and how to proceed Without any doubt, it is always recommended to buy a used car from a car owner than any car dealer or private seller as a middleman. The reason is that you will be able to have a clear understanding of the car’s history, and reason for selling, and as there are no other parties involved, both will get the most benefit from the deal. Always prefer Car Classifieds that have real car owners used cars and not from the car dealers. If you search car classified sites, always make sure to filter the ads from the car owner. Also, be careful because many so-called private sellers are in fact dealers on most of the car classifieds websites. If you don't see the seller's name on the car registration card or hear a story that I am helping my friend/brother then 90% chances are of a middleman acting as a private seller. You can find 5 Best places to buy clean used cars at good price here. The major problem with car dealers or the middlemen is that they are flipping cars for business and if the car has no service history records then it must have gone under a lot of compromised repair or quick fix recently. This sub-standard repair or cost-cutting will cost you dearly in the first 6 months of ownership. UAE has many used car dealerships, the Ras Al Khor auto market in Dubai is enormous, Mussafah in Abu Dhabi, Abu Shagara and Souq al haraj in Sharjah are a few of the big and famous used car markets here in UAE. Be very careful when buying a car from a dealer or auto market. The inspection steps mentioned below are to be followed even more rigorously to avoid ending up with an imported or salvaged lemon! Once you found a good prospective vehicle, don’t immediately jump to view the car, but call the seller or dealer first to make sure if it is still available. At the same time, you can go through the first basic questions like why the car is being sold, if it’s still available, how long it has been up for sale, and if it had any unmentioned issues or accidents in the past. Do not discuss the prices on the phone yet. Keep that for when you are face to face with the seller and once you have fully assessed the car’s condition. The reason for not discussing or negotiating the car price on the phone will set you aside as a real buyer as 90% of car dealer phone call starts with "what's the last price?" which is pretty sad and painful for any car seller that buyer wants to knock down 50% of asking value without even looking at the car or its condition. So with this strategy, you will have a better head start compared to other viewers and this approach might help you know a lot more about car history when the owner is at ease and not furious with bargain hunters. When you set up an appointment to view the car, make a preference to see the car in daylight hours. If it's not possible, then bring a good torchlight and ask the seller to head to any fuel station. This will help you in assessing the paint and bodywork. 3. Seeing the car and service history Once you go and see the car that you have prospected, it is very normal to be excited. But please do not ever show this to the seller, as you would give him the signal that you REALLY want the car, and that puts him at the competitive edge in the upcoming discussion about the price. Keep a poker face, stay friendly, and stick to the facts. Do not disclose too much information on why you are interested in this type of car. The less the seller knows about you, the less ammunition he has that he would use to ask for higher prices. It is ALWAYS recommended to bring a friend on the visit, he might see things that you don’t see. If that friend is a bit technically inclined, or even a mechanic, all the better! The car's mileage should represent what the seller tells you. While in theory, it is always better to have a car with low mileage, this depends on how the car was maintained and driven. Many high mileage cars are sometimes in better condition than that low mileage driven cars that have been standing still for years or are poorly maintained! Ideally, the car should have complete service history, preferably from the dealership or a reputable garage. If nothing is available, walk away from this vehicle or buy it at your own risk if you are technically inclined. This should ring alarm bells! Verify if the car is GCC specs or not. A GCC car will have the metal sticker on the driver sill containing vehicle info and has Arabic written on it then which means it is GCC specs. It is recommended to go for GCC specs vehicles in the UAE or GCC countries, but you’ll also find plenty of American and Japanese imports that will be a lot cheaper. Buying a non-GCC car is a big risk as most of these cars have been written off (accidental), stolen, or have unknown damages or issues. Ask for the previous RTA inspection documents and valid insurance and registration card to avoid problems when doing the official handover in the RTA offices. Check the mileages mentioned on the documents to see what the yearly increment was and whether it is in line with the current mileage of the car. If the car is on a loan or lease, the seller will need to settle that first otherwise transfer of ownership cannot take place. Ask him to check with his/her bank for the procedure and timeline required. Check for recent repairs and verify if the maintenance schedules were properly followed. Check when the next big maintenance is coming up, as that might include expensive parts like timing belts and suspension parts. Those are quite expensive maintenance jobs and if they are almost due, you should reduce the asking price accordingly. A VIN Number is an international Standard code on every vehicle. On most cars, you will find it on the dashboard driver's side. When cars are written off by the insurance due to a heavy accident or flooding, it will appear in the International VIN Database. For imported vehicles, you can use a website like carvertical.com that allows you to enter the VIN code and for a small payment receive a full report on the car. For checking the accident records inside the UAE, there are the following options: https://portal.moi.gov.ae/eservices/PublicServices/AccidentsInquiry.aspx?Culture=en https://www.evg.ae/_layouts/EVG/trafficaccidents.aspx?language=en 4. Exterior and bodywork inspection As mentioned, make sure you see the car in daylight, or if not possible, bring a torch with you and ask the seller to put the car underneath the streetlights or at a fuel station. Dodgy paint job A good way to tell if a certain car has been involved in an accident is to check for signs that it has been repainted and the way to do that, is to look at the reflection of the paint. The surface may look clear and smooth when viewed straight on, but sit by the side of the car and you may spot some unevenness or wavy lines with dips. If you do, there’s a good chance that the car has got a body repair job after the accident. Walk around the car and see if the color on all the panels matches — if it doesn’t then you know some patchwork has been done too to the car. Many cars that are 6 years and older, will have some scratches left and right. That is perfectly normal and does not mean the car is not worth buying. If the scratches are small, a decent polishing job can hide them again, and you can use it to push down the price a little bit. Misaligned panels When the doors, boot and bonnet are closed they ought to be perfectly flush with other panels. If the alignment isn’t right, it could be a sign that the car has been involved in an accident. Similarly, the front and rear bumper should fit straight but if you notice it’s at a slight angle or the gap between left and right doesn't match, chances are high that the car had an impact. Open and close all the doors once, there should be no rattles and they should align perfectly. Check the tyres Get your hands on your knees and give the tyres a good close look. If the tread seems uneven, it could be because of a misaligned wheel or even possibly caused by damage to the chassis. While you are down there it’d be a good idea to have a good look at the underbody and the wheel wells – if you see a fresh application of a rubberized undercoat it could be because of recent structural repairs and this was a quick way to cover that up. Windshield Inspect the windshield for cracks. Even the smallest crack can suddenly cause a complete crack a few weeks or months later. If the crack is smaller than a coin, there are companies that can repair it and make it structurally intact again, so it does not crack in the future. Inspect the windshield rubbers too, many cars that have been parked in the bright sun for a long time might have dried up windshield rubbers. Headlights Most modern cars now have plastic headlights, which become yellow after long exposure to UV radiation (in sun). When they become too hazy, RTA will make note of that and might not pass the car. If both headlights do not have a similar level of haze, then either the headlights were replaced after an accident, or the careful owner got them polished (and that means the owner is a bit perfectionist 😊), or kept the car in the shade at all times. Chassis Try to look under the car and see if there are any noticeable damages to the chassis. You can spot the recent damage by seeing the color differences on the repaired areas compared with the original paint. For older chassis damage you'll need to consult the proper technician who can check the chassis with computer alignment, including RTA Tasjeel selected branches. Have a look underneath the car's engine bay and sides to search for any wet markings of oil drops or pools of oil. Minor few drops or stains are acceptable to some extent if they are occasional, but regular drops or a pool of oil or any other fluid will require an immediate checkup! Clearwater dripping when the car is on = AC condensation - nothing to worry about. Clearwater droplets coming out from the exhaust = it's a sign of a healthy engine. Front side underneath - golden or brown oil = Engine Oil leaking - Immediate check needed. Front side underneath - green or red water-based fluid = Engine Coolant leaking - Immediate check needed. Under front driver or passenger side - red or brown oil = Gear Oil leaking - Immediate check needed. 5. Interior and minor detailing When entering the car, you might be either put off by the mess, or pleasantly surprised about the cleanliness. Both are possible impressions and be careful not to make an early judgment. Car dealers will get the interior professionally cleaned by third-party companies, so it looks super clean. When buying from a private owner you would hope that he shows you the car in a clean external and internal condition. If not, then better to walk away from a dirty interior car, which is expensive to restore. Damp smells If you notice that the dash light, or the power windows or indeed other electronical equipment doesn’t seem to be working right, it could be a sign of flood damage. Too many air fresheners in the cabin should sound the alarm bells – is the owner trying to cover up any damp smells caused by water damage? Visual signs of aging A car interior should match the km driven even if the car has a full service history. For cars with mileage below 50,000 km, you shouldn’t be seeing any broken knobs, faded buttons, worn-out brake or accelerator rubber, or loose and shaky gear levers. Car seats should not have too much play when you sit. Pull the seat belt out and see how smoothly it rolls back, if it doesn’t or gets stuck halfway then either car is accidental or driven over 100,000 km. Look on the driver's door sill, to spot any fuel station service oil change stickers to contradict the full-service history. Not all dashboard warning lights are serious, the one in yellow is an indication and orange is a warning and red is the problem. Still all lights are having different meanings for different brands, so worth checking further with the owner’s manual what any existing light points to and then decide to make a purchase. Try all functionalities such as an electric folding roof, electric seats, lights, indicators, radio, fans, and others before starting the car. Listen for squeaky noises or rattles. 6. Test drive, warning light and feedback Finally, the time has come to start the engine and focus on how the car drives and behaves on the road. The engine should start with a single crank and have a stable RPM after a first 15-30 seconds of warming up. Any dancing rpm is a sign of an engine that's not in good health. Although it might not be a big concern or issue, you should know that it will require some tune-up or minor repair work for changing spark plugs, coils, HT leads, etc. in the very near future. In idle, when you hit the gas, the engine response should be instant without any lag, unless it’s a turbo engine that has turbo kicking lag (not engine lag). NO check engine light on the dashboard is acceptable. Period. Use your nose. Do you smell gas, burning oil, or anything amiss? If you hear a loud ticking noise from the engine bay (engine head), there might be a problem with the valve lifters inside the engine head. Some cars are known to be prone to this, but have it checked by a skilled mechanic before you decide to buy as it could be a more serious and very expensive repair. Hitting the wide-open road: Start off with giving the car enough time to warm up. During that time you can keep the windows open and listen for abnormal noises as the revs slowly dropdown. Once on the highway, drive it at 120 km/h for at least 5-10 minutes. Listen for wind noises as this could mean the door panels or rubbers do not match up. How are the brakes? Are they doing the job of stopping the car? Do they squeak? If while braking there is a shudder, brake rotors might need to be replaced. Is the steering wheel centered, and does the car goes straight when releasing the steering wheel? Might need an alignment. Does the steering go smooth? If not, then the servo pump might be defective. Transmission and Drive train: In an automatic gearbox, ideally, a gearshift should not be noticeable. The best to pay attention is from the 1st to 2nd gear shift and see how smoothly it shifts. As in any aging gearbox that is the first starting point to show little to moderate jerk while shifting. Minor jerk could be because of stale oil and filter that is manageable but worth getting it checked further with the proper technician. In a manual gearbox, the firmer the gear lever shifts the better it is. Loose or soft shifting gear lever needs further inspection. Try to shift gears manually as fast as you can and see how the engine, clutch, and gear respond to your fast movement: If you see any hesitation or delay in engine response in fast-shifting need to be further diagnosed. If the clutch pedal feels loose or spongy, then you might be having a worn clutch that will soon need to be replaced. At an extremely slow speed (in a quiet area), pay attention to any rubbing, grinding, and metal shaking noise. It usually shows when a drivetrain has some issue from the driveshaft or loses couplings often resulting in humming or vibrations or low-speed rattling. Go slowly over the speed bumps and listen carefully. Try all gears, including the reverse gear. If the car is a 4X4, pay extra attention to the transfer box, and try all settings (2H, 4H, 4L). If any blinking lights appear when changing the settings, this could mean mechanical problems, but could also be an easy fix like a sensor or vacuum solenoid. Get it verified by a skilled mechanic in that case. 7. Close the deal and register Does the idea of "talking numbers" fill you with dread? It shouldn't. Negotiating doesn't have to be a traumatic experience. If you are reasonable and have a plan, chances are you can make a deal pretty quickly and easily: Decide ahead of time how much you're willing to spend to get the car. But don't start with this number in your discussion. Make an opening offer that is lower than your maximum price, but in the ballpark based on your average price research. If you and the seller arrive at a price that sounds good to you and is near the average price paid, you're probably in good shape. And remember, the people on the other side probably hate negotiating too (even if it's their job). Transferring ownership in UAE is easy, thanks to the RTA Tasjeel inspection centers. Some are even open 24/7 so you can meet up with the seller in the center to get all the paperwork done. Be careful with the insurance sellers in these offices. Prices will be significantly higher than if you enquire in advance at a regular insurance company. When you buy from the Ras Al Khor auto market, there is an RTA center on site so you can quickly settle the deal. When the car passes the RTA inspection, this does not necessarily mean that the car is in perfect condition. It merely means that the vehicle has no serious structural damage and is considered "roadworthy" by them.
    10 points
  12. The nose-dive damage while off-roading is too familiar with the people frequenting with the off-road drives. I myself have experienced it once if you see the large voids in the front face especially in the lower area like in the first image below. It basically means you are a sitting duck if you hit something hard or a crest. It will break or push in the area that gets hit as in normal physics to absorb the force. Now to protect that area from nose dive hit, smart thing to do is installing a skid / bash plate. Which will not only try to level the area you are gonna cross but also dissipate the force intended to hit vital organs of your car. So now you will be thinking which metal to choose for bash plate? Well you can go with iron plates or steel plates if they are strong enough and of certain thickness plus they are cheap but it will add the extra weight, which is very important thing for off road as lighter car use less force to do the same work. You can use duralumin or titanium if your pocket allows they are sturdy and really strong with a fraction of weight associated with iron and steel plate. Lastly you can use aluminum if it has the right thickness and it will not be so heavy on weight and is not so expensive for the pocket. Here in the following picture if you observe I have used aluminum sheet with a thickness of 4mm. We couldn't bend it by hammering it so we took it to a press so that we can attain the desirable curves but the finished product is of utmost quality and appearance. It's durability will be tested in the continuing journeys of the carnity off-road drives and I'll keep you posted of it's off-road progress.
    10 points
  13. 8 Most important steps before buying any car in Dubai and UAE Buying New or Used cars in Dubai and UAE is one of the most important and very valuable decisions that any individual or household makes. It is very difficult to find a good car from the hundreds of new cars and thousands of Used Cars for sale in UAE. That’s why many times I have been asked for car buying tips and tricks in choosing the right car model for my friends and family. So I thought of laying down my 15 years of car owning, buying and selling experience in words and try to help everyone here. It’s quite detailed and comprehensive so that it can clear many doubts, but don’t worry I made sure that I keep it to the point and very interesting to read. I am sure that after reading this you will realize that there are much more choices exists for Cars for sale in UAE other than just Toyota’s and Nissan in Dubai. Lol. Nothing in life comes for free, so the first and the foremost part are to allocate a budget that many people think is not very important at initial stage. But, trust me when I say its number one then there is a fair reason as changing your budget every week you will make your car buying experience more difficult. About 75% of car buyers in the UAE like to compare cars and hence for a fair car comparison you need to set a fix budget. You can read more here on “3 Key factors for assigning next car budget?” If you are not sure what all factors you need to consider while allocating the Car budget. Second step is to identify your Car need, which should be balanced between your emotional need and practical needs. My heart want’s cool looking 2 door sports car but with a family of 5 or 7, how do I practically enjoy that car with my family or will it be my second car for the weekend drives? All these questions you need to ask yourself honestly and decide accordingly and lock that choice to make rest of the process effective. You can read more here on “7 Car types that you should know before buying a car” Third step is to identify which Car brand or brands you like to buy or consider and why, as every car brand in today’s world is very different in behaving after couple of years of use. Some stay strong for over 10 years and some fall apart soon after the warranty. However every car brand has something special to offer, like some gives you most modern tech and gizmos than any other brand. Some offer extreme reliability, other specializes in the cheapest maintenance and so on. Sadly you can’t mix all good in one brand as every good has associated bad with it. If you fond of new tech and gizmos then slash out the reliability as no one has yet fully tested those technologies and if you like reliability then you should be happy to use the few year old proven technology that has been already perfected. You can read more here on “Top 5 best car brand types to buy” Remember that all this information is an indicative and based of several years of past experience, which may or may not co-relate after few years. Fourth step is to identify which year car year model you should choose or you can afford. If you are a new car buyer, then omit this point. Otherwise it is very important while you are in the market of used car for sale in UAE. Striking a balance between a model years vs. odometer reading is very important and as a car buyer you need to understand its importance thoroughly. This point alone is a very big game changer in identifying the right price for any used car for sale in Dubai or in UAE. Apart from year you also need to decide on full options vs. base option and entry models vs. flagship models and why? All three points are explained here “3 Secrets to choose perfect car model” Fifth step is to find the clean used cars in UAE, and this alone is havoc these days as due to quick internet education every seller and buyer is becoming very cautious and over smart. The most effective and single trusted method for finding used clean cars in UAE is to ask a single golden question: “Do you have full service history”. This question alone will filter more than 75% of the used cars and then you can focus on your mission more effectively. Off course if you know the cars in and out then you can take a bet at your own risk, but for normal average person who knows only 10% -20% basic car knowledge it’s better to rely on the service history records. This is fully explained here "One and only way to find trouble free used car" If you still need some convincing. Sixth step, relatively easy but important to know from where and how to buy the clean used cars for sale in UAE? As overtime this place has grown so much that people think that whatever legacy methods they have been using is still applicable, but it’s actually not. Just like anything else, this has also gone pass it’s saturation point few years back and now every used car buyer and seller need to know this: "5 Best places to buy clean used car at good price in Dubai & UAE" This point alone can save you so much time and money, that you will realize it only after the bad experience with the wrong guys. Seventh step is to put the reality to test and find out if all the above efforts have been followed properly or not. Once you are totally convinced with the model, odometer, condition, options etc. next is to test the car thoroughly by yourself as much as you can before you finalize or take it for further inspection with specialize technician. You should know the basic points to check the car as you don’t want to spend the technician fees for testing 5-10 vehicles, so knowing basic testing points will help you eliminate at least 75% - 80% of your car choices and only 1 or 2 will make it to professional technical test: "5 Things to check in used car before buying?" Eighth and the final step are to decide the final hand-shake price of the car. As true gentlemen you should always stick to your words while doing the negotiation. And never ever give your final offer if you are not serious to buy, or have some doubt before the final testing. Keep the seller in clear picture that you suggest an “indicative price” depending on the final inspection. I have seen major drama stories happening at the testing center when both buyer and seller are right and still deal fall apart because of the lack of clarity in communication. For putting the genuinely right price of any car if you spend 10 – 15 minutes with basic math you can do it yourself and don’t require any price comparison website. I have laid out the best practice that is been followed by insurance companies for over a decade to put a fair value price on any used cars here "4 Most important factors impacting used car price" Remember if you buy it right, you will enjoy it and not lose an arm and a leg while selling it. This is kind of must-read of all the above eight points. Disclaimer: I have written this and all linked articles to help my friends and family and other car enthusiast’s like you. This is purely based on my own experience. If you know anything more than this I am happy to edit these articles any time. Please leave me a comment and I will accept your changes and improvise these as soon as I can. If you like reading these articles and it helped you in anyways, please pass on the knowledge to others and use below red like to show your appreciations.
    8 points
  14. Car tyres in the UAE typically deteriorate faster than their tread life. Why you ask, well it’s hotter than a blacked out FJ cruiser sitting in the July sun with all the windows up, and the massage parlour business cards’ ink are etching the images on to the window. No but seriously why, because the heat of our summer temperatures dries the tyre out, once that occurs the shoulders, where the tyres expand at higher speeds (100 kms and above) stretch at the shoulders of the tyre, and thus crack. As you have noted in summer the amount of debri on the 140km limit highways increases, mostly it is from burst tyres of trucks that are loaded to the limit of the tyre, and the trucks are perhaps using poor condition tyres. Below is a picture of a cracked tyre, if you have similar tyres then consider changing your tyres soon, using moisturizer cream does not solve the issue below...don’t ask me how I know. So that’s probably why the RTA asks that tyres are changed every 3 years, as the ambient temperature, exposure to UV light causes premature aging of tyres and any rubber parts on a vehicles, have you noticed how infective your wipers are after a couple of weeks of the summer heat, seems like the wipers were designed to shift the dirt from the edges to your direct field of vision. So how do I get the best possible deal in the UAE on tyres you ask, because they are expensive? Here are some tips to reduce your buying price: Don’t buy from your service centre, authorised dealership, as they will charge harder than a wounded rhino. Petrol stations tyre dealers are also charging higher at times you have no choice, as you have a puncture and are incapable of changing to the spare tyre or filling with the foam, or driving at the lower speed on your run flats because you need to get to that meeting that you are already late for in typical Dubai fashion. I will assume that people are able to change a tyre on this forum, and can do this simple car ownership task in their sleep, if you can’t then LEARN NOW! Buy tyre brands from the official tyre distributor of that brand, sometimes this tip can be contradicted, as the independent tyre dealers in Sharjah, Al Dhaid, Al Wagan, Madinat Zayed are lower, why, because their overheads are lower. But you don’t have the 5 hours to spare for a round trip to Madinat Zayed, as you have to get a manicure for your golf game that day. See my notes for list of popular brands that I have bought from the official dealers. I tend to prefer the dealers, as the technicians are better trained, yes that can happen in the UAE, and the equipment is in better condition...oh and the customer waiting room has a better selection of magazines, but the tea and coffee are reconstituted engine oil at best. Don’t drive to the tyre shop and ask for the price, they will not offer a good discount if you are there, as they know you want to get this over with quickly, instead call them, phone calls are cheaper than crawling in traffic. And on the phone you can squeeze them on the price, the amount of squeezed discount is dependent on your background, if you are from the West, a 10% discount will probably suffice, if you are from the East you will ask if you can get the tyres for free as you have to save up for your son’s education or daughters wedding, and then work your way up the discount slabs, and you consider this is a national sport. Do you need to replace the same brand of tyre...the short answer NO!, you can match the size of the existing tyre, pricing depends on country of origin, so from lower to higher, China, Thailand, Korea, Japan, American, Europe. I will assume that the audience can quote their tyre dimension in at least 2 languages, if not then you need to learn this, use youtube, google and stop watching that other nonsense on youtube. So if Adam Smith were a Dubai resident, and wanted to change tyres, when would he do that? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supply_and_demand Supply and demand prevail here in the city of trading. So summer presents more opportunity for tyres to combust whilst on the highway, thus putting the fear of god into them, and they all rush to the tyre dealers for some new tyres. This fact is well known by tire traders, and they know they can squeeze an extra 10-15% out of the resident. So if you check your tyres, and think that they need to be changed based on the quality image above, then do it before May, as prices will remain higher until September. Do rotate your tires, keep the pressures up, infact you can increase the pressures around 3-4 psi higher on all tires than the car manufacture recommends, this will increase your fuel economy. But the car manufacturer recommends a lower pressure I hear you ask, sure they do, but to maintain a smooth ride and we really don’t need this here in the UAE as our roads are very smooth, exception is the rubble they used to surface Motorcity’s main retail stretch. Note: Sole Agent Tyre Dealers, use www.atninfo.com and www.yellowpages.ae to get the number. Bridgestone: Alserkal Bridgestone or Nasser Bin Abdullatif Alserkal Est. Yokohama: Juma Al Majid Dunlop: Al Gurg Tyres (Dunlop Pro Shop) Michelin: Central Trading Agency (They have Tyre Plus shops, which are expensive and have found that Michelin are cheaper at the independent shops, so buy your tyres from the independents and have them fitted at a good tyre fitting shop) Pirelli: Al Hawai Tyre company Continental tyres: Emirates For Universal Tyres LLC (I think, and I see that this brand is not widely used here) Hankook: Al Dobowi Tyres Kumho: Ideal Tyres Trading (not sure if they have fitting facility, and rely on 3rd party to fit tyres) Cooper Tire: Renaissance Trading BF Goodrich: Tyre Express (but maybe same as Michelin, independents are cheaper) Toyo: Tyre Express (but maybe same as Michelin, independents are cheaper) Thank you and I hope you make it to your work, golf game or the school run safer and a few dhirhams more in your pocket, if we bump into each other say you read my advice and found it useful, if you didn’t I don’t care.
    8 points
  15. The top 5 most common Car problems Car not starting The single most common car problem is the car not starting and that has series of things to check and troubleshoot before calling a recovery and sending for detail diagnose. Low on fuel: If car is extremely low on fuel and fuel pump is weak and/or old it will not build enough pressure to start the car as fuel delivery is very less. To counter this, always keep fuel more than 1 quarter of a tank. Dead Battery: If battery health indicator turn white, it means its dead. Green is good, empty means that battery is fully discharge and can be recharge by jump starting the car and then driving the car for more than 20 minutes to start the charge cycle. If car interior lights and headlights are dimmed then it’s a sign of weak battery that stop retaining the charge for certain cranking amps and failing to start and changing the battery is required. Choked Air filter: Check the air filter and it should look clean and free from dust and practically in a white or lighter color (depends on brand). If it’s fully clogged, choked and turn to darker color then remove it out and tap it on the floor gently couple of times to remove the dust as much as possible or use compressed air to blow the dust away. If car starts, then change the air filter asap as it’s not good to suffocate the car air delivery passage, that will burn more fuel and have difficulty in start up again very shortly. Car wobbling or pulling on one side Car majorly wobble due to unbalance wheels. No matter how good they were balanced in the past this problem can still occur, by simply hitting or scrubbing the pavement that removed the wheel balancing small metal strip accidentally. While balancing the wheel it is important to see Zero | Zero on both left and right side of the wheel to make sure it is 100% balance. In off-road cars, little bit of sand can get in the tire that makes similar wobbling as that sand keep rotating inside the tire. So get the tire open and remove all the sand from inside and then balance the wheels. Last but not least this can also happen if all 4 tires are inflated at different PSI level. Always inflate the tires as per OEM specification sticker placed on the driver door side (when open). In some cases (not so common) car can also wobble while having a drive-train issue, axle issue or faulty suspension. These all require professional diagnose and repair accordingly. Reason for car pulling on one side is the wheel alignment and that is totally different than balancing. Alignment is much quicker than getting all wheel balance and done faster and cheaper. Alignment will keep your car steering straight on road and also save your tire from uneven wear. Check engine light This one is the big Pandora box that can get on for so many minor to major reason that to list all of them here will require a separate book for each brand. However, in general “Check engine Light” comes for below most common reasons: Car is due for service. Fuel cap is not closed properly. Crank sensor, Cam shaft sensor need replacement. Faulty spark plug, HT lead (plug wire) or faulty ignition coil. Engine oil level depletes due to leak or internal combustion. Air filter is not set properly, or air flow meter on air filter housing got loose. Issues with emission control and some of the emission component need change. Engine Overheating Most dangerous and often neglected that result in huge repair bills. Always keep an eye on Engine temperature gauge inside the car dashboard. STOP the car immediately if it rises even slightly and inspect the below items immediately: Check the level of coolant in reservoir bottle, if low top-up immediately. Check the level of coolant in the radiator (when car is cold), if low top-up immediately. Check radiator fan is working in two speed: low (normal) and high (when car is hot). Check if there is no leak in the radiator and neighboring big black water hoses. AC fan works, when you switch on AC and shuts off when you switch off AC. If you pay attention to above 5 points, you will save over 75% chances of your car getting overheat and save your engine. Hope you know if car engine overheat to the max ONCE, it has over 90% chances that you need either new engine or rebuild old engine that cost almost 60%-70% of the engine cost. So make sure your eyes are always glued to the engine water/coolant temperature gauge and you notice the rise in time and stop to diagnose. If in doubt, do not drive if car is overheating in idle. Period. Screeching noise while braking In simple words, if you hear screeching noise while braking then change the brake pad shortly as they are going to screech even more in next few days to remind you for the required maintenance. While changing brake pads, front set of pads get consumed 3 times faster than the rear ones as over 70% of the time car only uses front brake and not rear. It’s only when car is under full load or high speed hard braking engage all 4 brakes together to stop your car faster. While at it you also should pay attention to brake disc condition, and should always get the brake disc skimmed if your brake pad change was delayed and constant metal scratching caused the serious scratches on the brake disc surface. Secondly, brake disc has certain minimum thickness and if it’s lower than the threshold thickness (mm) then it is highly advisable to change it ASAP for safe braking. Check your car repair manual or speak to service adviser to find out the minimum thickness of brake disc for your car model. Headlight or Taillight not working First thing to doubt when the headlight or tail light fails is the electric fuse, which is simple do-it-yourself job and replace any blown out fuses. If fuse were fine then you can check the lamp placed inside the tail light or head light and see if that is blown out, just like our house bulb it also breaks the filament after certain age. These two above steps can be simply performed by reading your car owner manual instructions. Beyond this point to check the switches, wiring, distribution points you will need a professional assistance to carry out a thorough check with a certified car electrician.
    8 points
  16. 5 reasons to not use SUV's for off-road In my previous advice I have explained: How to choose a capable off-road car? based on low range, ABS and Diff-locks. In this advice I will explain why SUV’s and crossovers do not make good, capable off road vehicles. The SUV’s / crossovers have serious design flaws (or differences) that make them unsuitable as off road vehicles. Below are the 5 points that will make this class of vehicle unsuitable as off road vehicles. 1) SUV’s have poor suspension articulation Main part of the reason why proper off road vehicles can do what they do is the fact that they have a long suspension travel, otherwise known as “suspension articulation”. What this means in the real world is that these vehicles can cope with uneven terrain because the suspension systems allow the wheels to move for up to 40 inches (1 meter) and more with respect to each other. This means that even on extremely uneven terrain, all the wheels can remain on the ground, thus maximizing the traction. In the case of SUV’s and crossovers, the maximum suspension travel is about 9-10 inches (seldom more), which means that once a wheel has moved as far as the suspension allows it to travel, the part of the vehicle lifts off the ground. When this happens, one or more wheels lose traction and if the vehicle is not fitted with diff locks, the vehicle is stuck, and has to be towed out of the obstacle, or uneven terrain. 2) SUV’s are not flexible enough Proper off road vehicles that have separate, “stepladder” chassis are extremely flexible, which also helps to keep all the wheels on the ground. In combination with their long, built-in suspension travel, this means that a proper off road vehicle can negotiate types of uneven terrain that no SUV or crossover ever can, simply because SUV’s cannot “bend” enough to allow the wheels to remain on the ground. 3) SUV’s do not have enough ground clearance While some SUV’s have about the same ground clearance as many proper off road vehicles, the problem is that their suspension setups do not allow for heavy loads. This load is sometimes made up of up to seven passengers, but in most cases, the load comes from the suspension being too soft. When an SUV goes over, say, a bump, the vehicle drops down too low when the suspension compresses as the vehicle leaves the obstacle, and especially so when the vehicle is travelling too fast. Since the suspension compresses too much, the vehicle’s ground clearance can be reduced to the point where some components like differentials, cross members, and even the engine and transmission can hit obstacles like rocks. Proper off road vehicles do not have this problem, because their hard suspensions do not compress to the point where ground clearance is affected in meaningful ways. Moreover, because proper off-road vehicles have hard suspensions, its ground clearance actually increases when one or more wheels go over an obstacle, since the vehicle’s weight is always fully supported by the firm suspension(s). This is not always the case with SUV’s, since their suspensions were designed to move in such a way that uneven spots are absorbed without excessive body roll or movements. Thus, the vehicle is not lifted off the ground when one or more wheels pass over an obstacle, and if the vehicle is loaded with passengers, it could happen that even small obstacles could hit one or more critical components. 4) SUV’s are overly complicated The ideal off road vehicle has as few components as possible to make it work, with driver and passenger comfort coming a long way behind requirements like reliability, ease of use, and easy repair ability. This is not the case with luxury SUV’s and crossovers that are designed to give the driver and his passengers the most comfortable ride possible on hard, paved roads. While we agree that some SUV’s are able to complete short and easy level 1 off road trails that are designed with SUV’s in mind successfully, the problem is that SUV”s are too complex (complicated) to do anything else reliably. Part of the problem is that the electrical systems of modern SUV’s are not designed to cope with the heat, dust, and vibration that go with serious off road driving. In many cases, the air suspensions of these vehicles are protected by dozens of fuses, relays, and control units that were simply not designed to cope with the demands of off road driving conditions. No vehicle that can be completely disabled when a single fuse blows (such as when the compressor stops working when its fuse blows) can ever be trusted on a long, difficult off road trail, and especially a trail that requires extreme care by an expert driver. 5) SUV’s do not have recovery points It is one thing to clown around on some loose sand, or to drive an easy, level 1 trail when there are plenty of other vehicles around to supply a tow, but it is something else entirely when that vehicle has to be recovered in very difficult terrain. For instance, a vehicle that is stuck in sand up to the depth of the tyre sidewalls, can require a force of up to three times the force required to move it if it were on a hard surface. This force is calculated by using the weight of the vehicle as a base line; therefore if your vehicle weighs say, 1800 kgs, you will need a force that is equal to the vehicle’s weight, plus ten percent of that value to move it on a hard surface. In this instance, you will need a pulling force of at least 1980 kg. However, if as we said, the vehicle is stuck in sand up to its rims, you need at least three times that pulling force, thus, 5940 kg, and that is where the problem comes in. Even if there is a vehicle with a winch available, there is no attachment point on the stuck vehicle that is strong enough to withstand this pulling force, and it is almost certain that the normal towing point or recovery eyelets will tear out from the vehicle- leaving the vehicle stuck in the sand, and probably hurting someone as the winch cable snaps and recoils. Depending on circumstances and local conditions, the required pulling force can be as high as six or even seven times the value of the baseline figure, which should make it obvious that unless the vehicle has properly rated recovery points, it should not be used off road, and most certainly not in conditions where it might have to be towed out with forces that exceed its weight by several times. SUV’s are simply not designed to withstand pulling forces of this type, and any attempt to subject a vehicle to these forces is irresponsible, dangerous, and likely to hurt someone. So, no, SUV’s and crossovers do NOT make good off road vehicles, even if it is only because they cannot always be recovered safely.
    7 points
  17. How to choose a capable off-road car? Off-road driving means different things to different people, and one of the most common, and potentially most expensive mistakes made by novice drivers is to think that SUV’s and Crossovers are off-road vehicles simply because they have some AWD capability or they look very similar in height and width. A current post on this forum is good case in point, since it asks if a Renault Duster is a capable off-road vehicle. The answer is simple; No, it is NOT a capable off road vehicle, and no serious off-road driver will ever see it, and other soft-roaders like it as a capable off-road vehicle. This article is not intended to bash Renault Dusters and other vehicles like it; it is intended to explain why they do not make a capable off-road vehicles. For the purpose of comparison, I will stick to why Renault Duster is not a capable as an off-roader, although the reasons listed here apply to all SUV’s and crossovers from almost all the brands and regions. It should have a low range Having a low range is of critical importance in any capable off-road vehicle. It may be true that a Duster has a specially geared first gear that provides a bit more torque to the driving wheels, but the gearing is not low enough to prevent wheel spin, which is an absolute requirement for driving in desert sand. A proper low range should reduce the gear ratio in first gear to the point where the maximum attainable road speed in first gear does not go over 8 - 10 km/h. The advantages of this should be obvious - the low gearing prevents the wheels from rotating fast enough to start wheel-spinning in sand or mud, so with suitable tyres, all of the rotation of the wheels is converted into traction. Soft-roaders like SUV’s do not have low enough gearing to prevent wheel spin, which is why they get stuck so easily. It should have way to disable ABS brakes ABS brakes can be dangerous in off road driving, since it increases stopping distances. This might sound strange, but the fact is that ABS was designed to work on paved roads, where traction is a lot higher than on even the best off road surfaces. On tarmac, the ABS allows the brakes to work at maximum efficiency because there is enough traction to slow the vehicle down effectively without skidding on any direction. However, in the off-road environment, and especially with tyres that are designed for on-road use, traction is reduced to only a very small fraction of what is available on a paved road. Thus, when a driver applies ABS brake when driving on loose surfaces, the wheels lock almost immediately, and before the vehicle has started to slow down. Moreover, as soon as the wheels lock, the ABS system releases the brakes until the wheels lock again, and so on and so forth. In practice, this means that the vehicle effectively has no brakes, and the vehicle could easily drive over a cliff because it cannot stop in time. Any capable off-road vehicle should not have ABS, or if it has, it must have a means to disable the ABS when it is not being driven on hard, paved roads. The most effective way to stop a vehicle on loose surfaces is to allow the wheels to lock, which causes them to dig into the ground, thereby creating increased rolling resistance, which is what stops a vehicle on any surface. It should have a proper diff locks The only differential locks that work reliably are those that lock mechanically. Almost all soft-roaders with some AWD capability have various kinds of viscous couplings that lock only the transfer case to supply torque to the diff that does not normally drive the vehicle. The problem with this is that viscous couplings can seldom handle high torque values over long periods on the one hand, and that the actual differentials on the driving axles are sometimes not locked. Although the Duster can be retrofitted with a rear differential that locks mechanically, there is no point in locking only the front differential in tricky or difficult driving conditions. With proper diff locks, all the wheels receive the same amount of torque but with soft-roaders, and especially those that do not have a low range, the torque that is supplied to the wheels is delivered at wheel rotation speeds that is too high for the tyres and suspension to maintain traction in deep sand or mud. Moreover, soft-roaders are often fitted with traction control systems that are based on the ABS brakes, which means that the system’s stored energy can run out before the vehicle is out of a sand or mud trap. If this happens, the automatic diff-lock control system cannot control wheel spin on an axle, which in turn means that the driver can lose traction on two or more wheels until the traction control system is recharged. On a proper off-road vehicle with mechanically locked diffs, torque is supplied to all wheels equally all of the time, and since momentum is the off-road driver’s best friend, there are no interruptions in power delivery that can cause the vehicle to sink into soft sand or mud. No diff- lock system that works with viscous couplings, and/or that depends on a brake-based traction control system can ever be effective in deep sand or mud, since it cannot supply torque to all four wheels for long period of time. Read more: 5 reasons to not use SUV's for off-road
    7 points
  18. Myth about lifetime transmission fills There has been a lot of talk lately about “lifetime” transmission fills, so in this post I will take a closer look at this issue. Lifetime transmission fills have destroyed thousands of transmissions all over the world, simply because transmission fluid breaks down, just like any other lubricant. More importantly though, a new transmission has a lot of relatively rough wearing surfaces, which means that the metal particles that wear off internal components eventually end up in the fluid, where they are filtered out by the transmission filter. However, many “lifetime” transmissions do not have internal filters any more. Instead, they have fine metal mesh strainers or screens, and the problem with that is the fact that most metal wear particles are small enough to pass straight though the strainer where they can become stuck in the valve body, where they can cause hard and/or erratic shifting, or sometimes a failure to shift at all because they prevent valve shuttles in the valve body from moving freely. That is just one of the many problems with lifetime fills. Another issue is that since many transmissions do not have proper filters, metal wear particles are allowed to circulate freely, despite the fact that almost all transmissions have two more magnets in the oil pan to “capture” floating metal particles. In practice though, there is no guarantee that any magnet will always capture all metal particles, so in effect, the metal in the fluid turns the fluid into a sort of grinding paste that causes premature wear on the clutch packs, bearings, planetary gears, and small moving parts in the valve body. Then there is the problem of additives in the fluid that break down. Many car manufacturers claim that the fluid in their lifetime fills is fully synthetic. That may be true in some cases, but they are only telling you half of the story. The fact is that the word “synthetic” means nothing in itself, since even the best synthetic fluids do not offer enough lubrication on their own. All synthetic lubricants need additives like friction modifiers, anti-foaming agents, and corrosion inhibitors to protect against corrosion and mechanical wear, and there is no single additive that lasts forever. ALL additives break down over time due to the effects of heat, moisture and contact with oxygen, and while this breakdown process takes longer to occur in transmissions than in engines, it does happen, and when it does, it causes problems with shifting because the fluid no longer lubricates the transmission properly. One of the major manufacturers of transmissions, ZF, recommends that the fluid in their products be replaced every 80,000 kms, but car manufacturers have made it almost impossible to replace the fluid. It is certainly possible to replace the fluid when you start experience shifting problems, but the problem is that nobody knows how much fluid most modern transmissions take. Measuring the amount that comes out of a transmission when you remove the oil pan is only a part of the fluid charge- the rest remains behind in the torque converter and in the valve body, so you don’t know how much fluid to put back in. Overfilling a transmission is just as bad as under filling it, which means that unless you have diagnostic equipment with the correct software to measure the temperature of the fluid as you fill the transmission, you could accidentally destroy the transmission by overfilling it. Transmission fluid expands as it heats up, which means that a transmission must be charged with the correct amount of fluid, with the temperature of the fluid determining the exact volume of fluid required. In most cases, this temperature is about 400C, but unless you can measure this temperature accurately, you could end up over filling the transmission as easily as under filling it. A modern car transmission can take anything between 4.5 and 6 litres of fluid, but since you don’t have a dipstick to gauge the level with, you just don’t know how much, or how little fluid to put in the transmission. So is a lifetime transmission fill a bad thing? It is absolutely a bad thing because you cannot service such a transmission, and there is a good chance that the dealers don’t know how to service a malfunctioning transmission with a lifetime fill as well. Moreover, you don’t get a lifetime guarantee to go along with the lifetime fill, so you are basically on your own when the transmission fails if the car is not covered by a warranty- and that is a very bad thing indeed. Bottom line, change the transmission oil and filter every 50,000 to 60,000 kms irrespective of the car manufacturer or dealer advise of lifetime transmission fills. This is my personal advice based on burning my fingers twice by believing in the theory of lifetime transmission fills. Both the time all my internet research and consultation with top mechanics taught me this lesson.
    7 points
  19. Set of 4 used: Once Vehicle used: Mitsubishi Pajero 3.8 Number of years used: 3+ Years Value for money: 5 / 5 On-road comfort: 5 / 5 Off-road performance: 4 / 5 Overall Performance: 4 / 5 So it was time to go for a new set of tires for my wife's Mitsubishi Pajero and after a lot of research was in a lot of turmoil whether I should go for the Nitto Duragrapplers as tried and tested or a set of Kumho Solus KL21. Put the options to my wife and with the price point, she immediately jumped at the Kumho Solus KL21 set. I obeyed my wife and asked them to slap the Kumhos on, but deep inside I was waiting for them to fail and never thought that 3 years down the road and I would be writing a positive review on these. Kumho tires are a Korean brand and made in Korea so it makes you think twice about your investment. I drove them now for 3 years mostly on road except for a couple of occasions when I took them off-road in the sand for a short stint and here is what I think about the Kumho Solus KL21. On road they are really quiet and offer a very comfortable ride, they have a good grip on the road in all weather conditions and so far I have not seen any inconsistent ware in these tires. They have been on for 3 years with almost 70K Kms on the clock and I recently got them inspected, they always remained very smooth and quiet on-road and I now feel confident having them on as the tire shop told me there is quite a bit of tread left on them and no cracks at all. My main concern, however, came how it does perform off-road being a highway terrain tire? The honest truth is, being my wife's car I hardly took it off-road, but for what it is worth it performed well for a couple of short stints I was talking about earlier. The straight threads of a highway terrain help them float better in the sands, and they seem light (which is a big positive mark from the off-road side for stock cars). They have served me very well for over 70,000 kms so far and I am very pleased with their overall performance. They are still smooth, quiet and comfortable on-road even at 140 kmph and gives you good control with different maneuvers. In conclusion, I would only like to say, these are my first set of Kumho Solus KL21 on my wife's Mitsubishi Pajero and although I was not sold on these at the time of purchase these have most definitely impressed me. I am very happy to own the current set and feeling relieved that my wife had made such a great investment for the past 3 years and the remainder of the time to come. At the price point, they are very good performer on-road and very good value for money.
    6 points
  20. Set of 4 used: Twice Vehicle used: Land Discovery and Nissan Pathfinder Number of years used: 5+ Years Value for money: 5 / 5 On-road comfort: 5 / 5 Off-road performance: 4 / 5 Overall Performance: 4 / 5 Tires are one of the most important and integral part of your car. I have used Michelin Latitudes tires on my Jeep Commander 5.7 Hemi and Pirelli Scorpions tire on my Land Rover Discovery. I love both these tires equally with an inch extra respect for Michelin due to their softer side wall for extra road comfort and better sand flotation. While I was in market for tires for my Discovery, there were offer on Nitto I came across for our off-road club and to be honest Nitto tires were very competitively priced. After fair evaluation and considering my tight budget, I thought it was a good compromise to consider Nitto Dura Grappler for my Land Rover Discovery. This first set of Nitto Dura Grappler tires lasted me for 4 years for roughly 60,000 kms that includes on road and regular off-road driving every week. So in end I was very happy with this forcible compromise I have to make 4 years back due to budgetary constraints. The Nitto tires are made in Japan so it gives you that added peace of mind for your investment. I drove them for 4 years in all sorts of terrain: sand, wadi, rocks and road and here is what I think about the Nitto Dura Grapplers. On road they are really quiet and offer a very comfortable ride although their side walls are not as soft as Michellin, plus with the technology they call "Revolutionary Dura-Belt™ 3 Steel Belted Technology" that gives them good grip on the road in all weather conditions and avoids inconsistent ware of these tires. They lasted me 4 years with total abuse off-road, they always remained very smooth and quiet on-road and I felt confident having them on. My main concern however came how it does perform off-road being a highway terrain tire? The answer is simple, it was amazing as the straight threads of a highway terrain help them float better in the sands, although they seem a bit heavy (which is a bit negative mark from off-road side for stock cars). They served me very well for over 60,000 kms and I was very pleased with their overall performance. Recently I have changed my off-road vehicle from the Land Rover Discovery to a Nissan Pathfinder. And without a doubt I have got a second set of the Nitto Dura Grapplers again. I recently went to Liwa with my new set of tires, to test if they are still the same or not? The answer is mostly yes, they are still smooth, quiet and comfortable on-road even at 140 kmph and gives you good control with different maneuvers. This time however I found something different in off-road, that I have to deflate more in the sands. Instead of the 15 PSI that I used to drive it on, I had to go down to about 12 PSI. It did well for some time, but in the really soft patches the car sunk, what amazed me was that they have done something with the tire thread that pushes the car upward and takes you out of the soft stuff if you have your technique right. Even though the car would be lifted from its spot and move a bit then again bog down in the soft sand. The trip leader advised me to deflate it down to 10 PSI a couple of times, but I was hesitant to not to have a pop-out. Having to be pulled out on 2 occasions I decided to listen to my trip leader and deflated further down to 10 PSI. The result was amazing, I never got stuck again for the rest of my liwa trip, even in soft sand where it seem the car would just get stuck, I continued to push and felt the tire just found the smallest bit of traction that would keep the car moving and a lift upwards which just did the trick and did not allow the car to bog down. In conclusion I would only like to say, these are my second set of Nitto Dura Grapplers on 2 different rides, and if I was not impressed the first time around, this time it has surprised me with a change for the better. I am very happy to own the current set and feeling relieved that I have made a great investment for the next 4 years to come.
    6 points
  21. 5 Things to check in used car before buyingOnce you find out your next almost perfect car, then follow the below checks by yourself and you will be almost 75% sure that it’s clean and not lemon. To make it easy I have divided this in below 5 important areas: Exterior: Check the car in daylight always or in extremely well lit area.No major dents, broken bumper, headlights, tail lights, indicator, brake light, chipped paint.No glass is broken from windows and front & back, including rear view mirrors.Open the door and check the pillars for any welding or repairing spots. That perfectly curly welding spot which is fully covered in car paint is the original manufacturer welding (that’s fine). Look for some type of accidental damage from side impact (if any). Open the engine bay and look all around the bay for any repair or repaint from accidental damage.Pull windows rubber beading to checking the inside metal gauge is perfectly straight and smooth and not involved in side impact accident.Interior: Car interior should match the kms driven even if car has the full service history. For cars under 50,000 km you shouldn’t be seeing any broken knobs, faded buttons, worn out brake or accelerator rubber, loose and shaky gear lever.Car seats should not have too much play when you sit and shake little bit.Pull the seat belt out and see how smoothly it goes back, if it doesn’t or get stuck half way then either car is accidental or driven over 100,000 kms.Look on the driver door sill, to spot any fuel station service oil change stickers to contradict the full service history.Not all dashboard warning lights are serious, the one in yellow is an indication and orange is warning and red is the problem. Still all lights are having different meaning for different brands, so worth checking further with owner’s manual of what any existing light points to.Engine: It should start in single crank and have stable RPM after first few minutes of warm up. Any dancing rpm is a sign of engine is not in good health. Though it’s a not a big concern, but a concern you should know that it will require some tune-up or minor repair work for changing spark plugs, coils, HT leads etc. in very near future.In idle when you hit the gas, engine response should be instant without any lag unless it’s a turbo engine that has turbo kicking lag (not engine lag). Japanese and Korean cars generally have fraction of second lag, which is acceptable but German and American cars engine should have immediate response when you tap on the accelerator.ALWAYS drive a car on highway at 120 km/h for at least 5-10 minutes, and any hesitation of engine will show up quite noticeably at higher RPM.NO check engine light on dashboard is acceptable. Period.Transmission and Drive train: In auto gearbox, ideally a gearshift should not be noticeable and best to pay attention is from 1st – 2nd gear shift and see how smoothly it shift, as in any ageing gearbox that is the first starting point to show little to moderate jerk while shifting. Minor jerk could be because of stale oil and filter that is manageable but worth getting it checked further with proper technician. It may be a major expense, so it’s worth a second look when in doubt.In manual gearbox, firmer the gear lever shifts better it is. Loose or soft shifting gear lever needs further inspection. Try to shift gears manually as fast as you can and see how engine, clutch and gear respond to your fast movement: If you see any hesitation or delay in engine response in fast shifting need to be further diagnosed.On extremely slow speed (in quiet area) and while going for highway drive, pay attention to any rubbing, grinding, and metal shaking noise. It usually show when drive train has some issue from drive shaft or loose couplings often result in highway vibrations or low speed rattling.While driving if car pulls to any side it’s a concern and often it needs a wheel alignment (100-300 dhs) but in some cases it may be an axle damaged with minute fracture by hitting the pavement at high speed or off road damage in case of 4x4 or SUV’s.Chassis: Try to look under the car and see any noticeable damage to the chassis, you can spot the recent damage by seeing the color difference on repair area than the rest of it. For older chassis damage you need to consult the proper technician who can check the chassis.Though this is not very big concern for check it yourself, as RTA approved testing center will check this in detail before passing the car for registration. Disclaimer: I have written this and all linked articles to help my friends and family and other car enthusiast’s like you. This is purely based on my own experience. If you know anything more than this I am happy to edit these articles any time. Please leave me a comment and I will accept your changes and improvise these as soon as I can. If you like reading these articles and it helped you in anyways, please pass on the knowledge to others and use below red like to show your appreciation.
    6 points
  22. 3 Key factors for assigning next car budget in Dubai and UAE As everything in life revolves around money, so deciding the fixed budget for your car buy is the number one thing that you should be doing. It’s not only to let you stay in control, but making the rest of the process streamline based on the available budget be it 10,000 or 5 Million. You need to decide the cash amount in hand as a buying kitty and then decide on how big you want to invest or rather spend. Off course I said as big because you don’t buy car everyday unless you are a dealer and hence increasing the budget has its own advantage to get you the most perfect car you need and will enjoy for the next few years. So allocate generously but definitely within your affordability parameters. People who want to take the buying kitty as a down payment only, need to also decide on how big car loan they can comfortably afford as an initial spend and for every month car loan EMI. If you are a cash buyer, then planning is lot easier in assigning the next car buying budget is equals to whatever you saved or whatever you can afford to spend for certain number of years after the residual value of car resale value. Example: You saved 100,000 for your next car buy and plan to drive the car for 5 years. Assuming your car resale value after five years will be 40,000 (4 Most important factors impacting used car price). So if you can afford comfortably spending the 100,000 – 40,000 = 60,000 over 5 years means 12,000 per year = 1,000 per month then go for it. Remember this amount is without Car maintenance, Car Insurance, Fuel cost, registration, Salik etc. This section is bit more complex for the car buyer who is planning to take up a car loan. As he still need to consider the above depreciation affordability and also find viability for the monthly payments. As most bank loan offer up to 80% of car value, so you should be ready with 20% cash as a down-payment. For the remaining payment EMI as a general rule of thumb, you should not exceed the below percentage of your gross monthly income depending on where you fit yourself: For an average joe, for who Car is just an absolute necessity: 10% - 15% Car enthusiast’s, who love Cars and want to enjoy to the max: 15% - 25% Car Maniac, who is crazy about Cars and can’t live without it: 25% - 40% Below are the 3 key factors that you must be aware of and able to factor them while allocating an appropriate car buying budget: Insurance: 4-5% of car value generally for all cars and all drivers 5-7% of car value for sports or high performance car or new driver 7-10% of car value for sports or high performance car and new driver Car Registration, Plate Number, Salik etc: 500-600 AED Annual Maintenance: Approx. 3-5% of car value for Japanese, Korean and American Cars within 5 years of age. Approx. 5-7% of car value for Japanese, Korean and American Cars after 5 years of age. Approx. 7-10% of car value for European and UK Cars within 5 years of age. Approx. 10-12% of car value for European and UK Cars after 5 years of age.
    5 points
  23. Waterless Car Washing Imagine that a hose uses 40-50 litres of water per minute. Within ten minutes, you have used 400-500 litres. With water being such a precious commodity in the desert you may ask yourself how to wash your car. It is possible to simply rub the dirt off with a cloth but in doing so, you will scratch the paint. To wash your car without water, you will need four or five high quality microfiber cloths depending on the size of your car and a spray bottle of waterless cleaner. One bottle of cleaner should be enough to wash your car approximately 4 times, again depending on the size of the car. There are many different waterless cleaners available on the market such as Meguiars Ultimate Wash, Ecotouch WCW, Griots Spray On etc. I’ll leave it up to you to read the reviews of different products online and decide which one is right for you. Clean the car one panel at a time, starting from the roof and work your way down. There’s no point starting at the bottom and working your way up as the cleaner will run down onto the bit you have already cleaned and you will be constantly chasing your tail. Simply spray the waterless cleaner onto the panel you are cleaning, then use a clean towel and wipe the dirt off. Don't use so much pressure on the cloth that you rub the dirt deep into the paint and create scratches. When the piece of towel you are using becomes dirty, fold it and use a clean part until it is completely dirty, then use a new towel. When you have cleaned the panel, wipe it entirely with a clean towel to remove any leftover moisture or dirt. Once you have finished cleaning the entire car, it helps to apply a good coat of wax. Not only will this keep a good shine to your paint but it will also help you to remove dirt next time you wash. **DISCLAIMER** I accept no responsibility for any harm or damage caused by anyone cleaning their car. This is only a simple guide on waterless cleaning. Always use high quality products and follow the manufacturers recommended instructions.
    5 points
  24. 5 Best places to buy clean used car at good price in Dubai & UAECar buying is an absolute mix of art and science together if you want to buy a perfect car. Having said that, means it requires a lot of patience and tolerance toward the car sellers. About 90% of the car seller offer might not fit your requirement, but just raise your tolerance and simply move on than getting into any heated argument. It’s not that you cannot prove a point, but what is the use of picking an argument when you aren’t interested in their car, so save your energy for next car visit and keep yourself calm and positive to do the proper inspection for your next perfect car. No to car dealers I am not saying or claiming that all car dealers are bad, but my experience has been 75% bad with all of them, and I have dealt with 8-10 different type of car dealers from small to medium timers (big boys are usually very expensive) here in Dubai. Sometime they fail to show the complete truth about the vehicle history and when you ask 5-10 questions then you figure out the crap and ugly truth they were hiding. I have even witnessed that 5 year old Nissan Patrol shows 60,000 kms on the odometer and also carrying 180,000 kms Oil change sticker of ENOC fuel pump on the driver door sill (odometer reversed case). It’s very difficult and for novice buyer it’s impossible to figure out the crap they can get from car dealer, so your best bet is to stay clear and do not deal with them. If you are really stuck because of no option in private deal then ask the first golden question with any car dealer: “Do you have full service history”? If the answer is yes, then inspect the service record with your eyes first before wasting any single minute, as many times I have experienced that when you ask service record they start playing hide and seek, that it’s there but in another office or car and will come here tomorrow if you are really a serious buyer. I am like you get serious first to sell and display what you have than playing otherwise and waste my time. No to big car classified sites As majority of them are car dealers or private dealers who is posting their junk cars at dirt cheap price there and keeping the best cars in their showroom to get you their and use these big and overly successful classifieds sites as a bait for the car buyers. Always focus on private deals with the real car owners Search for online car forums with real people Off-road clubs member forumsFacebook groups & pagesLocal supermarket advertisement boards etc.Office intranet or bulletin boardIn all the above 5 options you are sure to deal with the real people and not the car dealers. Once you find a good car deal make a visit and see if the car registration is at least 6 months old and if it’s not, then it may be a of private dealer. In worst case scenario private dealer are much better than the car dealer as they are less hungry and markup only 5-10% but will get you a super clean car with full service records. It’s worth the time and effort they spend to scout a clean deals on wheels. Second point to pay attention is the service history records, check all the receipts and see the service booklet is timely stamped and not any service has been missed out. In some cases people get the minor service to get the stamp and skip the major service to save money or get it done from outside workshop. In case of any gaps, if owner has a record of carrying out the major service from any other reputable workshop, it’s still acceptable than completely skipping it out. Third thing is the quick exterior looks for seeing any noticeable damage from accident, broken bumpers, headlights etc. Fourth is to start the car and see if it starts fine and no warning lights have been displayed on the dashboard. Fifth and the last point is to drive around a car and see how engine and gearbox react to your throttle response, skip a few bumps at good speed to check the suspension, check the AC cooling is OK while car is parked and good when car starts moving, play the music system and check the clarity etc. If all above 5 points are positive then you can consider yourself almost on the way to find your perfect car and consider yourself to go further with testing in detail by yourself in less than 30 minutes: 5 Things to check in used car before buying. Disclaimer: I have written this and all linked articles to help my friends and family and other car enthusiast’s like you. This is purely based on my own experience. If you know anything more than this I am happy to edit these articles any time. Please leave me a comment and I will accept your changes and improvise these as soon as I can. If you like reading these articles and it helped you in anyways, please pass on the knowledge to others and use below red like to show your appreciation.
    5 points
  25. Every car in today’s world is literally trouble free, if you actually understand the definition of trouble. As we humans need special treat over the weekend, movie with a loved one or once in a month long drive, we don’t call these things as trouble and we name them routine leisure activities to keep us charged and motivated for rest of the week/month. Likewise if every car owner in the world follows 100% schedule maintenance then literally there won’t be any trouble in their car. It is proven that over 75% of trouble is because of failed / deferred maintenance. I have been working with so many mechanics in my life and I hear them a lot saying that owner’s complaint about the car when they have over-driven the basic oil change by double its recommended kms. Trust me, not all cars are that forgiving except Japanese. You as a future car buyer need to understand that everything in the car will require some maintenance at some point in future. Please plan and be prepare for that car budget if you want to enjoy a trouble free car. Worst is sometimes, that smallest things can trigger such a big expense, that without knowing we simply blame the car brand. Below are the few of disaster examples: In Land Rover Discovery, failing to grease a drive shaft nipple results in a death wobble and then failure of drive shaft completely.Honda Accord if gear oil is not changed in time, then it will ruin the gear shift and clutch.In Nissan Pathfinder torn axel boot result in front axle failure.Loosely close radiator cap (in Japanese cars) can actually over heat your engine.Loosely close fuel cap (in German cars) can throw check engine light in dashboard.In Range Rover weak battery can display “Transmission Failure” error message because it uses electronic gear oil.So the bottom line is that how to find a trouble free car means that car that comes with proven service history records is the “KING”. Rest everything else might be fake and simple load of lies to sell that car. Before making a purchase insist of seeing the records with regular interval with the dealer (or reputed workshop) in the form of service booklet stamps or with the receipts of amount paid on each service. Showing the sticker of fuel station service is meaningless that every fuel station does the basic engine oil and filter change service and nothing more than that. Just for the complete service history records even if you have to pay 5% -10% extra premium while buying a used car it’s absolutely worth it. Same premium you can also claim when you resell the car if you have been maintaining the car as per schedule maintenance. Disclaimer: I have written this and all linked articles to help my friends and family and other car enthusiast’s like you. This is purely based on my own experience. If you know anything more than this I am happy to edit these articles any time. Please leave me a comment and I will accept your changes and improvise these as soon as I can. If you like reading these articles and it helped you in anyways, please pass on the knowledge to others and use below red like to show your appreciation.
    5 points
  26. 7 Car types you should know before buying a car A second step after the 3 Key factors for assigning next car budget; you should be finalizing the type of car you actually require based on the present functionality and your needs. For ex: a bigger family opts for 7 seats, a small family with kids will choose a car with 5 seats, a family with grown-up kids need a car with ample boot space for teenager sports equipment, just a married couple might like a two-door or convertible, etc. While deciding your next car league you also need to think a little down the line as if it should be still practical for the next few years before you sell or else you might regret your buy within a few months, so think beyond today rationally and not only emotionally and factor all the possibilities for the future. Below is a quick run-down of all the major 7 different types of Car categories that exists in today’s world from the cheapest to the most expensive types with a few known names of the car models to give you an idea: Subcompact Cars: Audi A1, Chevrolet Aveo, Sonic, Spark, Ford Fiesta, Honda City, Nissan Tiida, Peugeot 208, VW Polo etc. Compact Cars: Audi A3, Chevrolet Cruze, Ford Focus, Honda Civic, Mitsubishi Lancer, Nissan Sunny, Peugeot 308, Toyota Corolla, VW Golf. Mid-Size Cars: Chevrolet Epica, Honda Accord, Hyundai Sonata, Mazda 6, Mitsubishi Galant, Nissan Altima, Peugeot 508, Toyota Camry etc. Full-Size Cars: Audi A8, BMW 7-Series, Chevrolet Impala, Ford Taurus, Hyundai Genesis, Nissan Maxima, Toyota Avalon, VW Phaeton etc. Mini SUV / Compact Crossover: Audi Q3, BMW X3, Chevrolet Trax, Hyundai Santa Fe, Mazda CX-3, Nissan Juke, Peugeot 2008, Toyota Rav4, Volkswagen Tiguan etc. Mid-Size SUV / Crossover: Audi Q5, BMW X5, Chevrolet TrailBlazer, Ford Edge, Honda Pilot, Mitsubishi Outlander, Nissan Pathfinder, Toyota Prado, VW Touareg etc. Full-Size SUV: Audi Q7, BMW X6, Chevrolet Tahoe, Ford Explorer, Mitsubishi Pajero, Nissan Patrol, Toyota Land Cruiser
    4 points
  27. I drive a Mercedes S class with an AMG kit and that usually means expensive tyres as suggested by Continental as they are specially made just for Mercedes, and so there goes any savings you hopeed for, as the tyres are ridiculously expensive, approx AED 12-13K for 4 tyres. I folowed their advice and got the recommended ones the first time I changed it and thought it would last me 2-3 years. Alas I was asked to change it in less than 2 years and financially I was shocked at the thought of having to shell out another 12k. I researched like crazy and found dealers of the same size tye but Korean make and was shocked when I heard the price. They said AED 2200. I was like so 2200 x 4 right? they said no, 2200 in total. Now you know I was shocked. I drove to the workshop and checked out the tyres and perhaps reluctantly put on the Korean brand, Nexen inspite of many ppl telling me against it. They recommended filling Nitrogen in the tyres and I said go ahead. I took the risk as the price was just too good. Call me a risk taker ...but the moment I drove it off, it felt smoother than my earlier branded tyres and it was Love on the asphalt and I have no worries for the past 1.5 years.
    4 points
  28. Top 5 best car brand types to buy in Dubai and UAEAlthough this area majorly depends on so many personal choices, but I will try to high grade the most important points to pick and choose the most appropriate and most successful 5 best car brand types for you next car. The basic attribute of the brand behavior is very closely related to the geographical location they come from. In UAE there are 5 major and best car brand types extremely famous and successful in delivering all sorts of Cars. Below is a quick run-down in very generic and not specific to any one brand from that region. Japanese Cars: Honda, Infiniti, Lexus, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Toyota. They are generally famous for extremely reliable and durable cars. Offer reasonable comfort with very high usable life of cars.Resale value: 10 out of 10.Korean Cars: Hyundai and Kia. Recently they are famous for great designs and new technology at competitive pricing. Offer reasonable reliability and acceptable performance.Resale value: 9 out of 10.American Cars: Cadillac, Chevrolet, Ford, Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep. They are generally famous for larger than life, spacious and very competitively priced cars. Offer reasonable vehicle life with standard reliability and acceptable performance.Resale value: 8 out of 10.German Cars: Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Volkswagen. They are generally famous for high end luxury and extreme performance cars. Offer amazing creature comforts, new technology but with limited usable life of car.Resale value: 7 out of 10.UK Cars: Land Rover, Jaguar, Mini. They are generally famous for impeccable detailing and comfort in style. Offer reasonable vehicle usable life with excellent performance but with low reliability.Resale value: 6 out of 10.Having said the above quick pointers, they do not apply exactly same to all brands from same region. For example Toyota and Nissan is few notches above Mazda and Mitsubishi, although all 4 are from Japan, means each brand is slightly different in their core values, commitment and quality. Secondly the resale value is just a quick indicator of an average comparison as per each brand if compared to the same car classification (Explained earlier here: 7 Car types that you should know before buying a car). Each vehicle depreciation is majorly depended as per their origin and then as per their classification. Disclaimer: I have written this and all linked articles to help my friends and family and other car enthusiast’s like you. This is purely based on my own experience. If you know anything more than this I am happy to edit these articles any time. Please leave me a comment and I will accept your changes and improvise these as soon as I can. If you like reading these articles and it helped you in anyways, please pass on the knowledge to others and use below red like to show your appreciation.
    4 points
  29. 4 Most important factors impacting used car price Usually, the price of any commodity or vehicle is defined by its supply and demand. The same should apply to Cars as well but only to some extent and not all. Example: In hot summer more people want to sell their two-door convertible, so in that season when the market is flooded with 2-door convertibles then it will definitely fetch a little lower price. Though this impact is negligible but it’s noticeable. This point alone can help you majorly in finding if your perfect car can actually fit in your car buying budget after seeing its real worthy price and not the inflated price. The car prices that you see on the online classifieds website are not quite right as every seller prices their vehicle depending on the urgency they are in to sell it. Some sell it at undervalue and some sell it at right value or overvalue if they decide to wait for a few days or a week. To find a perfect car buying price, you need to understand that it depends on four major factors combined together to create a perfect resale value: Age, Mileage, Options and Condition. Age: Every car depreciates majorly as per their age factor roughly as per the below table. This further gets complicated based on the car manufacturer region means European and UK Cars will depreciate the most, and then comes the American and Korean brands and then the least depreciation will show up in Japanese cars. Luxury Cars: 20% depreciation for the first year and then 15% depreciation every year. Sports Cars: 20% depreciation for the first year and then 15% depreciation every year. SUV and Crossover: depreciation for the 15% first year and then 12% depreciation every year. Family Sedans: 15% depreciation for the first year and then 10% depreciation every year. Compact Cars: 15% depreciation for the first year and then 12% depreciation every year. The below example will show how to apply the depreciation on year by year rate: 2009 Model luxury car whose price was 100,000 now valued at 35,496 in 2016. 2010: 20% of 100,000 = 20,000 valued at 80,000 2011: 15% of 80,000 = 12,000 valued at 68,000 2012: 15% of 68,000 = 10,200 valued at 57,800 2013: 15% of 57,800 = 8,670 valued at 49,130 2014: 15% of 49,130 = 7,370 valued at 41,760 2015: 15% of 41,760 = 6,264 valued at 35,496 Mileage: After the age, mileage is the second biggest contributor to the value of the car. On average industry consider 18,000 – 20,000 km driving in a year. So you need to check the math with the number of years old and see if it falls in the industry bracket. Although there is no set rule that how much is too much, but you can factor some plus or minus on the final value based on the current mileage of the car. Let’s take the above example 2009 car and in 2016 it should be in the range of 108,000 – 120,000 Km. So if the actual car has 200,000 km driven means it's 80,000 km overdriven, so for every 10,000 km you can minus (if it’s more driven) or add (if it’s less driven) 2-3% on the above depreciated final value. Example: 35,496 x 2% = 710 x 8 = 5,680 (less) OR 35,496 x 2% = 1,065 x 8 = 8,520 (less) Means: 35,496 – 5,680 = 29,816 OR 35,496 – 8,520 = 26,976 for a 200,000 kms driven car. Options: Actually this point should not even exist here if you get the right model and right option price to start the math at first. However, many times you aren’t really able to get the Full options, Mid Options, and Base option pricing after 3-4 years of age. So as a best practice find out the current difference in the percentage of the same model and apply it to the final depreciated value. The reason for this exercise is as Japanese and Korean Cars have very minimal percentage difference (5-10%) between full options to the base models, whereas Germans, European and American cars have huge differences close to 20-30% from the base models. Condition: Last but not least, can heavily dictate the final pricing as Car has a lot to do with the proper maintenance and if the previous user was not maintaining it according to the maintenance schedule then the next buyer will suffer heavily. This condition implies to the general exterior and interior condition plus service maintenance condition. Remember the above math was for average wear and tear car as per its age. So if you come across a super clean car with full dealer service history feel free to bump up 5-7% on the final depreciated value as after all you need to thank such good car owners and vice-versa in the negative condition.
    3 points
  30. A very good morning to all my fellow Carnity Enthusiasts. I wanted to share this simple but useful device which I had bought recently from Dragon Mart, a bit expensive, but totally worth it. This is a power bank which can easily fit in the palm of your hand and includes all wires to connect and charge your mobile phones, laptops and more importantly start up your dead car battery. It is a bout 12000 MAH power bank that can easily start up your dead car, I have tried it twice with 2 dead cars and it works like a dream, no need to keep it charging for long. Just connect, switch it to 12Volts (it has a switch 3V, 6V and 12V for different applications), and start up your car. It sends a strong charge to the car battery and just starts it up. If fully charged it still has enough juice to charge your 3000 MAH battery completely. Forgot to mention it has a torch also, not so powerful, but useful to eliminate dark spots. Awesome device. This is what it looks like, I like the case also, very handy and useful.
    3 points
  31. There are several instruments in a car, which needs a little care from you, and it just springs back to life, just as new, irrespective of age or accidental damage. You really do not need to visit a mechanic for it. The headlights are one, which with age loses its sheen and a small caring ‘pat’ could just revive it by using the ‘Do it Yourself’ method. Extensive heat in GCC countries kills the outer plastic of the headlight and with exposure to sunlight, it loses its look and shine. And scratches come by default during the high speed highway drive with free sandblasting session every day. Here are some tips to make the scratches disappear and to remove the yellow shade which appears over time due to polycarbonate clouds, thanks to the UV rays that degrade the outer layer of plastic. Formula 1 Scratch Out: This Liquid rubbing compound helps in forming a clear coat on your headlight. Leave it to dry for 30 minutes and then start gently scrubbing applying little pressure in a circular pattern with a dry cloth. Once the dry paste is off, repeat the scrubbing exercise with water but more gently. This rubbing compound comes at a price of 12-15 AED in any fuel station. Toothpaste method: Use regular toothpaste, some towels and water. Spread the toothpaste onto the lens, spray water and dry it with the towel. It works. Meguiar’s PlastX: This can be used for minor damages or to make the headlight get its shine back. Meguiar's PlastX is easily available in Ace hardware. You will also need Sandpaper grit depending on the severity of the damage and discoloration, but, you have to purchase few sheets of higher grit from the one you choose. So, if you purchase sandpaper with 1000 grit, you will also need to buy 1500, 2000 and 2500. To start with 1000 grit is ideal for severely yellowish lenses. You will also need a few packs of microfiber towels, a flannel cloth, a masking tape and a bucket. Use the masking tape to mask the light you choose to work with and then cut the grit papers into usable size. Soak in water for 10 minutes. Take the 1000 grit paper and sand the lens, vertically or horizontally only, not in circular motion. Keep spraying water on the lens. Now, use the microfiber cloths to dry the lens. Then use the next level of grit and sand in the opposite direction from the previous session, and repeat the process. Then use the next level of grit and repeat all over again in opposite direction. Now, use the flannel cloth and put a small bit of Meguiar's PlastX and apply on the lens firmly in circular motion and allow it to dry. After some time, use the microfiber cloth to remove it from the lens. Try this for a few more times till the clarity of the lens is evident and then remove your masking tape. Then place a good amount of PlastX on your hand and spread it over the lens and allow it to dry. With a microfiber cloth, polish the lens for one final time. Once satisfy take the before and after picture and show off to your friends of your little DIY (Do It Yourself) project over the weekend.If you need more help, or need specific answer for any question then try the ‘Carnity Forum’ (http://carnity.com/) or find car businesses near you with the Carnity ‘Business listing’ (http://carnity.com/business_listing) section.
    3 points
  32. 1. STAY/STOP Never leave the scene before the police arrives or the issue is resolved even if it’s a minor accident. Not contacting the police at all is illegal in the UAE, so make sure to wait for them to come or report the minor accident with Dubai Police App if you happen to be in Dubai. It’s really simple and just take 2 minutes to get report on SMS. Not only fleeing from the scene of an accident is morally wrong, but it’s a criminal offence to do so as if you are hiding something. Always, and I do mean always, stay at the scene of the accident. Off course move the vehicle aside on the hard shoulder (yellow line) so that you don't block incoming traffic. 2. Check yourself Before you can help anyone else, it’s crucial to know that you’re capable of doing so. Do a quick test to determine whether you can move all your body parts: arms, legs, head, neck, shoulder etc just to see if anything hurts. It doesn’t hurt to quickly see whether you can remember your name, address and something of significance, just to ensure that you don’t have a major concussion. 3. Check the occupants If you’re conscious enough and can establish that you’re okay, briefly ask or check whether everyone else in the car (if present) is fine. If it’s something minor and the person is able to move, help them. If they are unconscious or are feeling neck or back pain, don’t move them an inch. Doing so could lead to serious, sometimes permanent damage. Wait for the paramedics to arrive. 4. Alert the authorities - Call 999 (In UAE) for any road accidentsObviously the next step should be alerting the authorities so that the paramedics, the police and even the fire department (if needed) can come as soon as possible. The sooner they are alerted, the sooner they can come. This may further prevent casualties and save lives. You only need to call Police at 999 and if ambulance or fire is needed they will ask you and take care of the rest. When Police arrives at seen and evaluate the whole situation, they might fine you if they find it's your fault to cause an accident. You can check the here the comprehensive list of RTA Fines and Traffic Fines in UAE 5. Protect the scene/Prevent an accident If the accident happens to be at a dangerous location, say a sharp blind corner or a crest (an uphill section) making the accident difficult for other road users to detect, get out of the way first. Get everyone involved to safety at the side of the road at least, and alert other road users if you can. Place the red safety emergency triangle few meters before the your car to warn other incoming traffic to slow down and be aware of your situation. 6. Give a true statement When the police arrive, be sure to give them a true statement of everything you can remember. Everyone knows that you might be in a state of shock so they won’t take anything against you if some details do come up later on, but make sure you don’t lie or give false information just to cover up and save yourself. The truth will eventually come out. If you’re asked whether you’re hurt and you can’t determine for yourself, say that you’re not sure instead of saying no. It’s better to get checked out right away as car injuries often surface hours or days after the actual accident. 7. Check your vehicle Go over the condition of your car. In more than 80 percent of car accidents, the vehicle is still in a drive-able condition if the damage is purely cosmetic. Don’t be fooled by the exterior however. Inspect the engine bay and if possible, the wheel arches along with the underside of the vehicle. Make sure there’s nothing leaking out and nothing critical is broken or hanging out. Having a busted headlight or a chipped wheel may not be that big of an issue, but a broken control arm certainly is. 8. Don’t rush it If you car is in drive-able condition and you didn’t have to call a tow truck, take it easy. Just because it looks okay doesn’t mean it’s the same as it was before the accident. Slow down and get the car home in one piece. Avoid driving it until you have it checked by a mechanic to confirm it’s safe. 9. Inform the insurance company Make sure to inform your insurance company of the accident as soon as possible. Be truthful about what happened because if they discover that you’ve been lying, you can end up with no coverage from their end, even if you weren’t at fault. 10. Go to a doctor If you’re experiencing some problems the following days, don’t hesitate to visit the doctor. Even if you feel perfectly fine, it’s normal to do a check-up visit especially if it was a bigger accident. Don’t be scared to go to the hospital, delaying it can only make the problem much worse.
    3 points
  33. 3 Secrets to choose perfect car model in Dubai and UAEAge VS. Odometer Any car life and value is highly dependent on its age and how many kms or miles it has been driven. These two are the major component as everything in car ages with passage of time and other mechanical component wear down as per how much it is driven. On an average a car should have driven 20,000 kms a year as a benchmark value to decide its worthiness. Below example will help you understand that where the age will take precedence vs Kms. Car A: 3 years old car driven 60,000 kms for 85,000 AEDCar B: 2 years old car driven 90,000 kms for 85,000 AEDCar C: 5 years old car driven 60,000 kms for 65,000 AEDCar A is better than Car B. (Kms takes precedence) Car B is better than Car C. (Age takes precedence) Car C is better than Car A. (Kms takes precedence) Base VS Full Options While buying a car the price difference between Base and Full option is marginal and that difference becomes miniscule in used cars, especially in Asian and American cars. Hence most of the used car buyers always prefer the full option cars, which makes the Full option resale value better than Base option and also it sells faster due to more in demand. So if little money is not a constraint, always buy a full option car. Entry models VS Flagship models Every car manufacturer always cut so many corners in entry level cars in all classification, which tend to show its age faster than expected. Due to same they fetch even lower resale value as they require higher maintenance after few years of use. On the other hand all car companies take extra time, effort and research for putting together their premium flagship models as they carry special pride of their brand. Due to same they are highly reliable and fetch excellent resale value. If budget is a constraint then, stay away from entry models and go as close as possible to the flagship range. Disclaimer: I have written this and all linked articles to help my friends and family and other car enthusiast’s like you. This is purely based on my own experience. If you know anything more than this I am happy to edit these articles any time. Please leave me a comment and I will accept your changes and improvise these as soon as I can. If you like reading these articles and it helped you in anyways, please pass on the knowledge to others and use below red like to show your appreciation.
    3 points
  34. 3 Major mistakes people make while selling car in Dubai and UAEAs you know that selling is the most difficult task in the world, and it becomes even more challenging when you have to sell used car to a stranger without any trust or positive reputation. So the only thing that can help you sell your car fast with a confidence is to gain the trust of the buyer. Below are the 3 common mistakes that seller makes to prevent gaining the trust and positive reputation while selling car in the UAE. By following below steps, you can actually build a trust and gain positive reputation within ONE MINUTE of your ad-view. Show the car service records One of the most important ways to build a trust is to show the full service records to a buyer without even asking. This will help you gain over 50% of the buyers trust in one single step. Even if you don’t have the full dealer service history, then show the partial record and explain where you have been servicing the car lately. You shouldn’t be lying in this step as smallest lie can fall apart the whole deal at a later stage if buyer suspects any wrong information. I have seen over 50% of the people who sell car don’t even realize that this sharing of service record is of utmost importance. The reason for this importance is that new buyer will be confident in buying after seeing that car has been very well taken care of in the past, and he won’t be spending for your mistakes. You should add at least one picture of the car service record in your online car advertisement to gain that trust immediately. Click good car pictures Majority of online car classifieds I see really lack in this department. People click the blurriest possible pictures, night shots and overcast pictures to hide the fault but they forget that no one is going to buy their car without actually seeing it, so why waste everyone’s time. Do yourself a favor and spend some time in getting the crispiest, highest possible resolution pictures in daylight. Click 50 – 60 pictures and select best 10-15 out of it showing the exterior (all sides), interior, engine bay, trunk etc. for a complete feel of the car that buyer can see within 1 minute of viewing your online advertisement. Off course make sure the car is super clean (washed) from inside and outside and free from your grocery bags or office stuff or personal belongings. By sharing the good pictures, you will be surprise to see how people straight away wanted to see your car as you have already build the trust and confidence within first minute of ad-viewing. Be reasonable and fair No matter how much you love your car, but every car depreciates with time and the mileage and you should know the real value of your car. You can add 5-10% extra for final negotiation, but not over 50% markup and scare the buyer while viewing your ad. Price it right and you will sell it fast, as remember every day your car is anyways going to lose more value so sooner you sell better price you can fetch. If car has some damage or issues, be clear in the car classifieds pictures and in description and let the buyer take the call to still view your car with minor concerns or not. Hiding these will again waste your time and only 1 out 10 people will be actually interested in it. So being honest and clear will help you filter the interested buyers that potentially will accept the car with the little issues along with reasonable discount in the price.
    3 points
  35. The goal for the majority of car modifiers is to make your car accelerate harder and travel faster. This is relatively easily achievable by spending money and changing some components in the engine. There is a big temptation to just open up a catalogue and order everything but realistically, this does not always work, there are some modifications that just do not perform well together. For example, if you have a gas flowed cylinder head and add a high lift camshaft, if the two parts are not matched correctly, you could end up with a truck load of horsepower but a torque band that is narrow and unusable. If the parts are matched correctly, you can end up with more power than the sum of the individual parts. Say a high lift camshaft gives you 10 BHP on its own and a gas flowed cylinder head gives you 10 BHP, using the correct two parts together can give you an extra 30 BHP rather than 20. The first thing you need to understand is how a 4 stroke petrol engine works. The piston moves up and down twice during each cycle creating the 4 strokes, Suck (down), Squeeze (up), Bang (down), Blow (up). A mix of fuel and air is drawn into the engine (suck), the fuel/air mix is compressed (squeeze), the mix is ignited by the spark plugs (bang), and finally the exhaust gas is emptied from the cylinder (blow). The second thing you need to understand is what you’re trying to achieve which is get as much of the correct mix of fuel and air into the engine as quickly as possible (more fuel & air = bigger bang = more power), compress it as much as possible and when finished, get it out of the engine as quickly as possible. Let’s look at some modifications you can try to achieve this: Breathing modifications These are modifications that help your engine breathe easier, i.e. air intake and exhaust. Your car comes from the manufacturer designed to pass emission and noise regulations which can strangle your engine. One of the first modifications most people do is to ditch the factory intake and exhaust and fit uprated items. Performance/sports air filter, induction kit with nice smooth pipes and less joins to help the air flow better, performance exhaust manifold, complete removal of catalytic convertor or fitting of a less restrictive item, larger bore exhaust pipe with free flow silencers. Internal modifications Items such as high compression pistons (do exactly what the name suggests), forged conrods (bigger bang means bent/broken conrods which can burst through the block and ruin your engine). However, when using a big turbo/supercharger, low compression pistons are used to prevent the effects of turbo lag and to reduce the chances of ignition problems. There are also other ways to increase the compression ratio such as decking the block and skimming the cylinder head. More compression can lead to pre-detonation of the air/fuel mix (pinking) which can damage the surface of the pistons and cylinder. This can be countered by using fuel with a higher octane rating. Cylinder head There are many modifications you can make to the cylinder head to increase power. The internal ports within the cylinder head can be polished and channeled to allow gases to flow more freely in and out of the cylinder. Larger valves can be used, again letting gases flow faster in and out of the cylinder. The angle of the valve and seat can be changed, again having the same effect as above. The camshaft can be changed for one which opens the valves to a different height and for a different length of time. Engine rebore As the Americans say, there’s no replacement for displacement. An engine rebore can give you a few extra hundred CC which effectively means you have a bigger engine in a block the same size as the original engine. This will however require you to use other parts such as larger diameter pistons and rings. Not all engines are suitable for reboring, such as aluminium ones with cylinder liners but most cast iron blocks are fair game. Another way of increasing your engines CC is to use a stroker kit which consists of special crankshaft, conrods and pistons. Crankshaft grinding/polishing Grinding a polishing a crankshaft has the effect of making it lighter which makes it easier to turn, resulting in a freer revving engine. It is also very important to make sure that it correctly balanced which will enable you to run a higher maximum rev limit without the engine shaking itself apart. Forced induction Forcing more air into the cylinder by using a turbo or supercharger means you can add more fuel, giving you that bigger bang you’re looking for. Both turbos and superchargers have their own advantages and disadvantages. Turbos produce more power than superchargers but only produce it when the engine is at speed, thus creating a noticeable surge of power when the engine produces enough exhaust gas to activate the turbo. This time delay is known as lag. Whereas a turbo only produces power some of the time because it is driven by exhaust gases, a supercharger produces power all the time because it is driven by a belt and pulley system. It is very easy to change the power output of the supercharger simply by changing the pulley. Fuelling Because you have more air going into the cylinder, you need more fuel. This is easily achievable on older cars by simply fitting a different carburetor. It’s still pretty simple on more modern cars by adding a larger capacity fuel pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator and larger injectors. However, this is also the tricky part as you need to make sure the air/fuel ratio is perfectly balanced. If you run too lean, i.e. too much air, not enough fuel, the engine will run too hot and you can melt pistons and spark plugs. If you run too rich, i.e. too much fuel, not enough air, you will end up with black smoke from your exhaust, carbon build up on your spark plugs, carbon on the valve seats which mean they don’t close correctly. ECU tuning There are different ways to modify your cars ECU which can enable you to adjust things such as air/fuel ratio, spark timing, boost, and rev limits. Some ECUs and software will even allow you to add features such as launch control and run different engine maps for different situations such as one for everyday driving and one for racing. On most cars it’s relatively simple, just connect to car to a laptop with the correct software and off you go. On other cars the ECU is locked by the manufacturer. This can be overcome by using a piggyback ECU which sends false signals to the cars own ECU to allow control of the above functions. In some high performance applications where money is no object, it is possible to even throw the cars original ECU in the bin and use a special dedicated sports unit. **DISCLAIMER** I accept no responsibility for any harm or damage caused by anyone modifying their car. This is just a simple guide on the basics of tuning. For more information on a particular topic, please ask on the forum or read a book. Always consult a qualified mechanic and read the workshop manual for your car before carrying out any work.
    2 points
  36. Your kid deserves all the love and care from you, without being ignorant or inconsiderate while driving your car. It is after all for the safety of your baby, where you as a parent decide where your kid gonna sit, how he or she sits, whether the kiddo is buckled up and safe to ride with you...all these matter. And ‘Never on your lap’ is a golden rule to remember. According to last year reports, in 2014, a child died every week in UAE road accidents, and in most cases it was as a result of their parents failing to buckle them up. Studies have also shown and accidents have proven that wearing a seat belt reduces the risk of death or serious injuries by 40-65 percent on the front seats, but when it comes to your little ones, if not properly buckled up in child seat, this figure goes up to 80 percent. Damn. Although there is no law yet regarding child car seat in UAE. However, there is a law for not letting the kids under the age of 10 in front seat and doing so will invite a fine of Dhs 400 and 4 traffic black points. Similar law to this is in proposal stage for a child seat and also Dubai police highly recommend using appropriate child seat as per the age and height of the kids. Drivers failing to buckle up a child in an appropriate child seat may face the charge of endangering a person's life. If your loved one is less than one year old, he or she should be seated in a child car seat while if your child is six-nine months old or weighing under 10 kgs, he or she should be put in rear-facing child car seat, which should rest at a 45-degree angle and the seat belt should not move more than 2.5 cm. The chest clip of the seat should be near your baby’s chest at armpit level. And if your kid is nine months to four years of age and weighing 9 kgs -18 kgs, seats can face forward for the children. You could refer the car manual to install it properly. The shoulder straps should be near or below the child’s shoulders with a gap that allows one finger between the strap and chest. Grown up children, in the age group of four to six years of age and weighing 15 kgs - 25 kgs, can have the luxury of seat boosters at the back seat. Support cushions can be used for children in the age group of 6 years -11 years and weighing 22kg-36kg. Ensure to use the lap and shoulder combination belt so that your child’s head is supported by the top of the booster. Children over these age and weight groups can be buckled up in the seat belts provided in the car. Do not let your child sit on the lap of other passengers or the driver and never ever leave the child alone in the car.
    2 points
  37. EMERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS IN UAE: Police : 999 Ambulance : 998 or 999Water & Electricity : 991General Information : 101Telephone Directory : 180 or 181 Abu Dhabi Hospitals: Sheikh Khalifa Medical City : 02 6102000Al Rahba Hospital : 02 5064444Corniche Hospital : 02 6724900Al Mafraq Hospital : 02 5011111 Al Ain Hospitals: Tawam Hospital : 03 7677444 or 03 7074100Al Ain Hospital : 03 7635888 Dubai Hospitals: Dubai Hospital : 04 2714444Rashid Hospital : 04 3371111Al Wasl Hospital : 04 3341111American Hospital (Private) : 04 3367777Welcare Hospital (Private) : 04 2827788 Sharjah Hospitals: Al Qassimi Hospital : 06 5386444Zulekha Hospital : 06 2678866Al Zahra Private Hospital : 06 5619999 Ras Al Khaima Hospitals: Saqr Hospital : 07 2223666Saif Bin Ghubash Hospital : 07 2223555RAK Hospital : 07 2074444
    2 points
  38. Buying a car is a very big decision and one should fully take an educated decision rather than shooting in dark by considering only the purchase price of the car. Many time we think some car brand is cheaper than other then why not settle with a cheaper one and save a few thousand in the car buying process eventually we regret our purchase due to expensive insurance, maintenance and fuel mileage. I have bought many cars in Dubai in the last 7 years that I feel below checklist and key points are very important for any person to understand, plan and act on before buying any new/used car in Dubai and UAE. Requirement: Planning a car should definitely start with the need and the real requirement off course. If you require a four-seater car then don't go looking for a 7-seater. Allocate budget: Fix your budget first and then decide to spend 90% of the total set budget, as the remaining 10% roughly will be required for insurance, registration, tinting and other minor accessories. New vs Used: Both have their own pros and cons depending on the budget you decide and you should work around it. Insurance: Usually insurance in Dubai and UAE float around 2-5% of the sale value, but it may vary depending on your car segment: Sports and Luxury cars have higher insurance premium. The new driver will have a higher insurance premium. An old driver can save on insurance premiums by submitting a no-claim certificate from their previous insurance company. Financing cost: If your bank finances the car then do factor the total interest paid overtime, as it will rock the overall budget set for a car. If you looking for new cars then look for a few dealers in Dubai who offer zero percent interest during mid-year car sales. Registration: Although very small like less than 1000 dirhams for testing, registration, plate number etc. but worth counting. Maintenance: Japanese, Korean and American cars have reasonable maintenance costs as opposed to European and British cars. Super compact cars have higher maintenance than a normal sedan or saloon car. Luxury cars have higher maintenance as opposed to regular cars. Sports cars and performance cars have higher maintenance as well. Fuel mileage: Smaller the car size and car engine capacity lesser the fuel consumption. Big 4x4, Sportscar and performance cars have higher fuel consumption as well. Re-sale value: In order of best to worst - Japanese, American, Korean, German, British and French. Real cost of car ownership = (Cost of the car + Insurance + Registration + Finance cost + Fuel consumption + Maintenance) - Re-sale Value. Hope it helps many new car buyers in making an educated decision.
    1 point
  39. Do it yourself: How to change your car engine oil? Changing your car engine oil is one of the simplest jobs you can do it yourself and can save you both time and money. Before you start you will need to make sure you have the correct engine oil, correct engine oil filter, correct tools and empty container to collect the old engine oil . Your motor factor/parts shop will advise you on these. The first thing you need to do is run the engine for 5 minutes to warm the oil. Cold oil takes forever to drain and you'll never get it all out. Place chocks behind the rear wheels, jack the front of the car up and support it with axle stands. Never get underneath a vehicle that isn't properly supported. You may think it will never happen to you but I personally know two people who have been crushed and killed by falling cars. If the car has a plastic cover or metal bash plate underneath the engine, remove this. Keep the screws together in a small box, this will save them from getting kicked around the floor and being lost. Now you're ready to remove the sump bung. Place your empty container underneath and slowly screw the bung out. Be ready to move the container to catch the stream of oil and be careful as it will be warm. Also make sure the container will be large enough to hold all the engine oil. When the engine oil has finished draining, clean the bung, replace the copper washer (there should be one supplied with the new filter or ask your motor factor for one) and screw the bung back into the sump and tighten. Do not over tighten or you may strip the threads resulting in a leak. It's better still if you use a torque wrench but if you don't have one, it doesn't matter, just tight it nicely with reasonable hand force. Next you need to remove the old engine oil filter. If it is a metal spin on filter, use a filter strap, chain or other filter tool to unscrew it. When you have removed it, keep it the right way up. If you turn it upside down, you will end up with oil all over your nice clean floor. Take a smear of new oil on your fingertip, rub it onto the rubber gasket on the new filter and screw the filter on. You don't need to use a tool to fit the filter, just tighten it tightly by hand. If the car has a paper cartridge type filter, remove the lid of the housing and withdraw the filter. Remove the filter from the housing and dispose of it. Clean the lid. You will notice some rubber o-rings along with your new filter, change the old ones for these and smear the new ones with some fresh oil. Fit the new filter into the lid and screw it back into the housing taking care not to over tighten it. If your car has a plastic cover underneath, refit it. Aren't you glad you kept those screws in a little box? Next, jack the car up again, remove the axle stands and place the car back on the ground. Remove the oil filler cap and pour in the new oil. If you're worried about spilling, it may help to use a funnel. Unless you know the specific quantity of oil the car requires, fill a little at a time and keep checking the oil level on the dipstick until it reaches MAX. Start the car, wait 20-30 seconds and switch off. Wait a couple of minutes and check the oil level on the dipstick again. If you need more, add it but be careful not to overfill. Too much engine oil can do as much damage as too little. Start and run the car and check for leaks, there shouldn't be any if you have done everything right. Remember to dispose of the old oil and filter responsibly. Don't dump old oil down drains, it harms the environment. If you have everything you need to hand before you start, this should all take you around twenty minutes. Don't worry even if it takes you an hour though, it's not a race and enjoy doing something by yourself for the first time. **DISCLAIMER** This is only a basic guide to changing oil and filter. I accept no responsibility for any damage or harm caused by anyone changing their own car engine oil. Before you start, I recommend you read about changing oil for your specific model of car as per the car owners manual. There should be plenty of information online about it. I only seek to demonstrate how easy it can be.
    1 point
  40. Cars are precise assets and pat of the family considering the amount of money spent to acquire one. Just like the human system, cars do require some care to keep it safe and sound, cars require some care to keep it safe and going for long. The human system is taken care of by giving it nutritious food, taking it to the hospital for checkups from time to time and all sort of care just to ensure that the body is healthy. This same thing applies to the cars that we drive, they require absolute care to keep their parts functional, from the brakes, tires and all car parts that make up the car system. Therefore today I will be talking about ways car owners can take good care of their cars themselves in the simplest way ever to keeping it safe and sound and also increase it's resale value. The list includes simple steps and daily routine “Do it yourself” tips that when followed judiciously will keep car in good condition and offer lot more value back, whenever you sell. Read the user manual: This is the first on my list of how to take good care of your car, because many car owners neglect this very first step. Every car is different and comes with its user manual which contains the specifications of the car and care instructions for the that specific car. By reading the manual first of all is the right step on how to start taking good care of your car. Change engine oil regularly: Just like the human body needs food to nourish its system so also does the car engine need a good oil to keep its part in good condition. Therefore it is advised that you change your car engine oil regularly as per owners manual recommendation. Check weekly and make sure to top the oil with a good brand of engine when it is low. Brake pad check: In time of danger, the car brakes come to rescue. This is only possible if the brake pads are good and functional, then the brake will do its work. A simple take of changing or checking on your brake pads regularly can save your life and keep car in good condition without any accidental history. Tire care: The tire in a car need some pedicure too just the human feet do, your car can’t move an inch if the tire is not in good condition and also the brake and brake pads can’t put the car to a stop if the tires are bad. it will be a good thing to do to check on the expiring date of a tire and change it if the tread is wearing off. The spark plug: Some car owners don’t even know a car has a plug, well now you know every car has a spark plug which is meant to be change periodically. A bad spark plug can cause the car to have issues accelerating with in a short time. Very old spark plugs should be changed to avoid engine malfunction. Tire air pressure: It is one good thing to have a good quality tire in your car it is another thing to make sure the air pressure in the tires is what suites the car. Over air pressure in the tire of the car can cause outburst which is very fatal when the car is in motion and when there is under pressure which mostly we call flat tire, the car wouldn’t even move an inch and this will affected the wheels badly. Grease every joint: Rust is the enemy of iron and once it steps in damage done to the car cannot be undone, but a simple step of greasing the parts that have nuts on it and some iron parts can encourage lubrication and easy movement of those parts thereby keeping the rust away. Park your car under a shade: There is no other person excerpt the car owner can do this, even a mechanic wouldn’t always be there to park your car for you, Parking the car under a shade will prevent the heat of the sun from destroying the plastic parts of the car or even the windscreen and dashboard. If shade is not always possible, then use the car sunshade to protect the dashboard and many other plastic parts. Battery care: The car battery is just like the heart of the engine and without it the whole car system wouldn’t work. Any problem in the battery affects mostly the electrical part of the car, the horn, lights and ignition. It is important that a car owner from time to time check the acid level of the battery and top it when necessary and also clean or check the terminals to see they are intact. Clean always: Washing the car is part of the care to keep the car paint smooth and shiny. The cleaner a car the better it is, even if you don’t have the strength to wash the whole car kindly take it to the car wash and get the quick clean done than leaving the tons of dust on it for weeks.
    1 point
  41. Turbocharging Basics Turbocharging is a great way to make your engine produce more power but it is not as simple as just bolting on new manifolds and a turbo. The purpose of adding a turbo is to force feed as much air as possible into the cylinder which means you can burn more fuel and therefore produce more horsepower. A naturally aspirated (NA) engine can only suck in a certain amount of air before the inlet valve closes, sealing the cylinder and preparing for compression. This is generally only around 60% of the cylinder volume. Even using the latest and best tuning techniques, the best you can hope to do is increase this to around 80%. Adding a turbo can increase this volumetric efficiency to around 120-150%. Running higher amounts of boost means you can effectively have a small turbocharged 1.6 engine producing more power than a lazy big V8. One thing to be aware of is that as you add more air and fuel, you are also effectively increasing the compression ratio. Too much compression and your engine will go bang. In order to reduce the chances of this happening, pre-boost compression must be lowered. An issue of high compression is pre-detonation, also known as pinking. This happens when the air/fuel mix has been compressed so much that it ignites on its own without a spark from the spark plugs and before the piston has finished the compression stroke. This explosion of the air/fuel mix effectively tries to push the piston in the opposite direction from which it is travelling. If you’re lucky, you will only end up with small pits and marks on the piston crown and cylinder head. If you’re unlucky, you can end up with broken connecting rods and a hole in your engine block. There are a few ways to reduce the chances of detonation such as using water/methanol injection and higher octane fuel but if you’re planning to run high levels of boost, you must reduce pre-boost compression. This can be achieved in different ways such as a rebore with wider pistons, use specially designed low compression pistons, fitting a stroker kit, using a thicker head gasket (I have also seen some people building engines using 2 head gaskets). Direct injection technology as originally used on diesel engines has now found its way onto petrol engines. Fuel is injected later into the mix than before. This lowers temperatures and helps to deal with the pre-detonation problem. When adding a turbo, you will have a lot more gases flowing through your engine so it will also help to do some work to the cylinder head to maximize gas flow. Polished ports, larger valves, larger exhaust manifold will all help. Fitting of an adjustable boost controller will help you fine tune optimum pressure and timing advance. Now that you have more air flowing into your engine, you need to pay attention to fuelling. If you don’t have enough fuel in the mix and the engine is running lean, it will be running a lot hotter than before which can result in melted pistons. This can best be managed by using an aftermarket ECU which has been specially designed for turbocharged applications. An aftermarket ECU also means a new wiring loom and new sensors so don’t forget to budget for this as well. Before you even think about turbocharging your engine, you should research and read as much as possible about your particular engine, see what other people have done before you. Make sure your engine has a good strong block. Not every engine will be strong enough for turbocharging. There are a lot of bolt-on turbo kits on the market for a lot of cars but don’t forget, it’s not as simple as just buying the parts and bolting them on and you’re finished. **DISCLAIMER** I accept no liability for any harm or damage caused by anyone modifying their car. Always read the workshop manual for your car and consult a qualified mechanic before starting any work.
    1 point
  42. How to diagnose / replace Spark plug? Faulty spark plugs can be a major cause of poor running and poor fuel economy. They eventually wear out over time and need to be replaced. They are also a good indicator of the general condition of an engine and how it is running, i.e. if they are black and oily it could mean worn piston rings or valve stem oil seals, if they are black and sooty it indicates an over rich fuel mixture which could be a blocked air filter, a faulty temperature sensor causing the engine to over fuel or any other number of things. I have posted a picture below showing some of the most common problems here. Thankfully, changing spark plugs is a simple task you can do it by yourself and it doesn’t take too long. You will need a ratchet, extension bar and a spark plug socket to suit your size of plug. It is possible to use an ordinary deep wall socket but a dedicated spark plug socket is better as it has a rubber insert which clips onto the top of the plug and helps you withdraw it easily. Your motor factor/parts supplier will advise you on which plugs your car requires or check below in multiple manufacturer to be sure. NGK spark Plug finder Denso spark plug finder Bosch spark plug finder Champion spark plug finder Pull the wires off the top of the spark plugs. Always pull them by the insulator, try not to pull the thin part of the wire or you can damage it. Always remember which order you removed them in or the car won’t run properly if they are connected in the wrong order or may not run at all. Sometimes it helps to put a bit of tape on the end of the wire and write the cylinder number on it. If the car has a coil over plug ignition system rather than ordinary wires, remove the coil packs first. You now have access to remove the plugs. Put the socket over the end and rotate anti clockwise until the plug comes out. Be careful if the engine is warm, use gloves to hold the plugs otherwise you can burn yourself with the hot plugs. Fit the new plugs. Before you tighten them, make sure they are on the correct threads. If you have a torque wrench, use this to tighten them. Check the workshop manual for the torque settings specific to your car, it’s probably somewhere between 10-30 Nm. If you don’t have a torque wrench, you can use an ordinary ratchet but do not over tighten them. Not only will it make them more difficult to remove next time but if damage the cylinder head you could be in for a whole world of bother, maybe having to remove the head to fix the threads. If the car has long tubes down to the spark plugs, it’s very important that you don’t just drop the plugs down the hole prior to tightening. Either push a piece of rubber pipe over the end and use it to lower them down or use the extension bar and socket to gently land them in their socket. If you drop the plugs down the tubes, you can bend the ground electrode which closes the gap and means you won’t get a proper spark. Refit the plug wires in the same order as you removed them or refit the coil packs if you have a coil over plug system and start the car. **DISCLAIMER** I accept no responsibility for any harm or damage cause by anyone changing their own spark plugs. This is just a simple guide. Always read the manual for your own car before attempting any repairs.
    1 point
  43. 5 tips to take care of your car during extreme UAE summers Just imagine what all your car is facing in this scorching summer while you are sitting in its AC and enjoying the drive. You can put your cotton clothes; you can have a chilled soda but what about your car? It can’t speak but that doesn’t mean you won’t take care of her. Don’t be so tough on your car and give her the attention she needs. The way you pamper yourself to stay fit in this oppressive summer, should be the way you care for your car too. Here are 5 things that you must do to keep your car (and your wallet) happy. Check Fuel Economy If you want to make a long term contract with your present car then keep a check on its fuel returns, after all, at the end you would be looking for its fuel efficiency more than anything else. Moreover, Fuel economy check is very essential in hot summer because the weather gets very harsh on the car and mechanical parts face double the heat. Good fuel returns can be ensured by scheduling cyclic drills like changing oil filters after a specific number of months or kms, full inspection of air filters and so on. Drop in fuel economy could signal something is wrong with the engine health and you need to schedule an inspection at the earliest. Get Air Conditioner Serviced Although, AC is not required to run the car efficiently but the car AC is as important as any other part in summers. Without an AC, you cannot even think of driving for a few kms and that is why you should get it serviced. BUT in case you do not mind looking all sweaty and frustrated when you reach work in the morning, you can skip this step. BTW, AC is the first to get cut-off if engine has some heating issue so to save engine by running a tad cooler car computer sacrifice the AC. So if your car is not well serviced, then you might loose AC sweet cooling on any extremely hot day. Check the Coolant Expansion Bottle Keep a weekly check of coolant as it should be full especially in summers. A dry coolant tank (expansion bottle) might become a problem for your car engine’s life efficiency. There is one more way of checking the coolant; if your car’s temperature is going high then be assured that it needs a refill IMMEDIATELY. Keeping a bottle of coolant is advisable when going on long road trips to save your car engine from very expensive damage. Air Pressure in tires should be checked High temperature of atmosphere is the main cause of tire’s expansion and so checking tire pressure is one activity that you should do at least once a week unless your car has TPMS (Tire pressure monitoring sensor). Don’t consider the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall as it is generalized for all the 4-wheelers in market, rather go for the recommended tire pressure mentioned in your car owners manual or on driver door sill (when open). Clean the Battery Extreme heat of summer can overcharge your car’s battery by just speeding up the chemical reaction inside the battery. The end result would be a short lifespan of the battery. So to prevent the aging of the battery at a faster pace, detach its cables and wipe off the terminals. If possible, get your battery checked from a service station and save yourself some money and headache. These 5 simple steps can ensure safety of your car during summers. The precautions mentioned above will help your car survive the heat and live longer than expected. Take care of your girl If you like my advise, please hit the like button below and save your friends by sharing this advice.
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  44. How to jump start your car when car battery dies? A car with a flat battery can be a real pain. Maybe you left the interior light on overnight, you go to start the car to go to work in the morning but nothing happens. You haven't got time to wait to call a mechanic or breakdown service, you need to be at that important meeting. This is where it comes in handy to always have a set of jump leads in the boot. Especially in a place like Dubai where most cars are automatic and it's not possible to simply push start them. If you haven't already got a set and are going to purchase some, make sure you buy good quality ones made from heavy welding cable. Some of the cheaper, light leads can overheat, melt, short and start a fire which will only add to your misery. If you spend the money on a decent quality item, it should last you for the rest of your days. Park both cars close to each other so the jump leads will reach both batteries without being stretched but do not let the cars touch. Ensure both vehicles are in neutral with the handbrake on or in park if automatic. Also ensure both vehicles are switched off with the keys out of the ignition. Check the terminals on both batteries for corrosion or damage. If there is a problem it will need to be addressed. Attach one end of the red lead to the positive terminal on the battery of the dead car then attach the other end to the positive terminal on the battery of the good car. Attach one end of the black lead to the negative terminal of the battery on the good car and attach the other end to an unpainted metal part under the bonnet of the dead car such as a large bolt or engine bracket. You're almost ready to jump start the dead car. First check that the ends of the cables are all secure and that they will not get caught in any moving parts such as fan, alternator belt etc. Start the engine of the car with the good battery and let it run for a few minutes whilst keeping a light rev on then try to start the car with the bad battery. If it starts, all is well and good. If it doesn't, let the car with the bad battery run for another few minutes and try again. If it still doesn't work, check your connections and if it still doesn't work, you may need to change the battery or call a mechanic. With both engines running, disconnect the leads in reverse order from which you connected them. If the battery in the car which was previously dead is ok, the alternator will charge it up again fairly quickly but if you're still having starting problems, you will need to address them. **Disclaimer** I accept no responsibility for any harm or damage caused by anyone jump starting their own car. This is merely a simple guide on how to do it.
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  45. With knowledge comes the power to tell when a mechanic tries to rip us off, so with these posts, I am hoping to provide Carnity members with some basic knowledge of a particular fault code to help them understand what caused a particular generic OBD II code to be set, and how the system(s)/component(s) that relate to the code work. https://carnity.com/topic/9801-how-to-scan-trouble-codes/ Definition of Generic Trouble Code P0087: "Fuel Rail/System Pressure Is Too Low" What sets code P0087 This code is set when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) receives a signal that the pressure in the fuel rail/system is lower than what is required for the engine to start, or to run properly. The required fuel pressure varies from vehicle to vehicle, but in all cases, the fuel pressure can vary between pre-defined upper and lower limits. Thus, when the PCM detects that the fuel pressure does not fall within the specified range, code P0087 will be set. Symptoms of code P0087 Typical symptoms include: · Illuminated CHECK ENGINE, or SERVICE ENGINE SOON warning light. · Stored trouble code. · Vehicle may not start. · Engine may be hard to start, with long cranking periods before it starts. · If the engine starts, there may be some hesitation on acceleration. Note that misfire-related codes may be present in these cases. · Loss of power if the engine starts. Note that in these cases, there may be other codes present along with P0087. Causes of code P0087 Typical causes include the following, although not all may be present on all vehicles. · Low fuel level in the tank. · Defective fuel pump/fuel pump relay. · Clogged, or dirty fuel filter. · Defective fuel pressure regulator, preventing the fuel system from achieving/maintaining the required fuel pressure. · Defective fuel pressure sensor. · Short circuits in associated wiring. · Open circuits in associated wiring due to damage to wiring. · Loss of ground in the wiring circuit. · Corroded electrical connectors, causing bad contacts/connections. · Defective OEM, or aftermarket security/anti-theft/immobilising devices that could prevent the fuel pump from starting. In these cases, there may, or may not be an illuminated CHECK ENGINE light present, or there may be other, vehicle-specific codes present along with P0087. Basic troubleshooting steps for code P0087 NOTE: When diagnosing code P0087, it is important to be sure that the fuel gauge is working properly. Many expensive fuel pumps, relays, and even PCM’s have been replaced when the vehicle simply has run out of fuel. Also, be sure to make sure that there are no leaks in the fuel system that could affect fuel pressure. Typically, when a mechanic investigates code P0087, he will start by doing an inspection of the relevant circuits to eliminate damaged/corroded/short circuited wiring, which he will repair before doing anything else. The next step will then typically be to- Step 1 Record all freeze-frame data and stored codes with a scanning tool, which is a sort of “snapshot” of what happened when the fault code was set. This is an important step since it may indicate an intermittent fault, which can sometimes be very difficult to find and repair. Step 2 Clear the code, and test the fuel system to see if the code has returned. Step 3 If the code is still present, the mechanic’s next step will be to check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail (using a dedicated fuel pressure gauge), which he will compare with the specified value for the vehicle. At this point, the mechanic will also check for the correct system voltage at the fuel pump. If the system voltage is not within specification, or absent, the mechanic will check/replace the fuel pump relay, or repair damaged wiring found during this stage of the procedure. In some cases, the battery may have to be replaced if it is defective. NOTE: Low battery voltages can cause some fuel pumps not to start. Step 4 If there is enough fuel in the tank, the system voltage is within specification, and the fuel pump is found to be working properly, the mechanic will check/replace the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator before clearing the code, and retesting the system to see if the code has returned. Step 5 If the code is still present, or the vehicle will still not start although the fuel pressure is within specification, the mechanic will test the fuel injector circuit to check for open, short circuited, or corroded wiring. NOTE: In some cases, a vehicle can show all the symptoms of code P0087 a code relating to the fuel injectors/fuel injector circuit being present. However, this depends on the capabilities of the code reader (and its software) more than anything else does, since some cheap, or generic code readers / scanners often fail to extract some fault codes. Step 6 If the injector circuit is OK, and the fuel pump is working, the mechanic will check the operation of the fuel pressure sensor. This check will involve checking the reference voltage (power supply) at the sensor, which is usually 5 volts for most applications. The check will also involve checking the sensor’s resistance using a special chart, called a pressure to Hertz chart. Note that it is almost impossible to diagnose a faulty sensor without this chart. The mechanic will replace the fuel pressure sensor if its resistance readings do not fall within specifications. NOTE: This sensor converts fuel pressure into a signal voltage, which the PCM interprets as fuel pressure, which in turn is used to calculate fuel delivery (injector pulse width), and to adapt the ignition timing (among other parameters) to ensure that the engine operates efficiently. Step 7 If the fuel pressure sensor checks out OK, the mechanic will perform continuity/resistance/ ground checks on the wiring between the fuel pressure sensor and the PCM, making sure that the PCM is disconnected before doing so. Not disconnecting the PCM can damage it during continuity checks. If any faults are found, the mechanic will fix them at this point. NOTE: If there is no problem with continuity or the ground, the PCM is likely to be defective, but PCM failures do not happen often, so the fault must be sought elsewhere before the PCM is replaced. Step 8 At this point, the vehicle should start, so the mechanic will clear all fault codes, and test the vehicle with a scanner connected to see if the code returns. This can happen if there is an intermittent fault in the wiring, so the mechanic may have to replace the affected wiring harness to ensure a reliable repair. Codes related to P0087 P0088 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too High. Disclaimer WHILE ALL INFORMATION IN THIS POST IS ACCURATE, IT IS INTENDED FOR GENERAL INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. I DO NOT ACCEPT ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR DAMAGES OF ANY KIND ARISING OUT OF THE USE, OR INCORRECT AND / OR IMPROPER USE OF THIS INFORMATION. ALWAYS CHECK WITH YOUR MECHANIC OR THE MANUFACTURER / DEALER OF YOUR VEHICLE BEFORE ATTEMPTING A REPAIR BASED ON THIS INFORMATION.
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  46. More than 500,000 used cars are listed every year online on UAE car selling portals. So every time you plan to sell your used car that figure is your competition. So how does one go about selling used car quick and easy ? I have been asked this question more than 100 times in my life in Dubai, UAE and that's why I thought of writing this article and keep sharing and using it for others to help. In last 3 years I have bought and sold more than 7 cars for myself, my friends and family. Selling your old car can be pretty daunting task if you don’t know how to sell. Of course, even if it’s an old car a buyer will surely look on all of its aspects. With that, you have to make sure that your car is in good shape and proper working condition overall. You need to make sure that your buyer will be impressed with the first looks. Remember strongly that while selling softer tone, cooperative approach and friendly behavior will help. If you can't adopt any of these three things, sell your car at car dealer for quarter the price. Make Sure Your Car Look Awesome: They say dont judge a book by its cover, but in case of a used car its always judged by its looks. No matter how powerful your engine is or awesome your music system sounds if your car is not presentable from outside, there is a chance that the buyer might not even open your door. To do so you’ll probably spend some cash for detail cleaning, washing and some minor repairs. These all are necessary to make your car as good as new. More than 75% of car buyers always look for car that has no immediate cost and they can reliably use the car from the date of purchase. For placing an online advertisement make sure cars is extremely clean and drive off to spacious parking lot and take lot of pictures with the best phone or real camera you got. Post the ad with best 8-10 pictures showing all exterior and interior angles. Highlight any flaws, dents or scratches in picture, be more realistic and honest. This way you will filter the picky buyers and save lot of time in viewing. Always remember, the price is what draws peoples attention, but the description and photos is what causes them to call your number. Show the Love, Bond and Good Memories: Emotions sells better than anything else. So share your best car stories with the buyer, show your love, attachment and bond with the car that gives the new buyer a confidence in buying a car from a careful and loving owner. Share the story of you and your spouse had really good drive-time, kids love it completely and going to miss this ride, etc. This shows that you kept the car as a family member and not just a piece of machine and pushed it hard for having fun. What I meant is to show the love, if you really have it, but don’t fake it. Be Honest and Transparent with Full Car Service History: Last but not least, this alone is the key game-changer point that many owners don’t know the value of showing the detail car service history to a new buyer. If you have the dealer car service history, then it’s easy to show the records on booklet with stamps or receipts. If car is out of warranty and you have maintained the car with reputable workshop, then show all the service details and recent repair bills (if you have it). This builds the immense trust and helps you sell the car in NO-TIME. When done preparing your car, it's time to find potential buyers. Of course, even when I say it is to sell your car fast, you still need to be patient and wait for people to respond to your ads. Moreover, so that your advertisement will be really effective you should share it on the Social media and you might have to repost it sometime for more people to see. Fortunately, with all your efforts, someone will be interested and you can get the best price for the deal.
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  47. Lack of lane discipline, especially lane swerving is considered to be a leading cause of death on the road in UAE. While cases of driving under the influence has been curtailed due to strict rules and punishments, there are several other reasons or distractions that lead to lane swerving . And it is just about taking some simple extra precautions to ensure smooth travel, while maintaining your particular lane. Always keep your vehicle in the center of your lane; not to the left, not to the right.On multiple lane highways, keep your car to the right, giving way for faster cars to travel on the lane to your left. Overtaking from the right is illegal.Use indicators before changing lanes. Very important point for UAE cars, as many drivers don't use this at all.When stopping at a red light, ensure that you are in the lane where you would want to be after the interchange.Distractions should be avoided, especially phone calls or SMS. According to a report, ‘Despite it being illegal in the UAE, nearly a third (30%) of motorists admit to using their phones and reading texts while driving. Speaking with passengers (44%), changing the radio station (40%), and adjusting the air conditioning (34%) are other major reasons why drivers lose concentration. The stunning skyline of the UAE is also enough for 8% of drivers to become distracted’.Allow enough space ahead and practice safe distance. Many accidents involve rear-end collisions.In heavy traffic, when the lanes merge, use the ‘merging in turn’ rule - the left car goes first, then the right one.Solid lines should not be crossed.Do not drive on a cycle lane, bus lane or yellow line – emergency lane (hard shoulder).Avoid frequent lane changes.Turn your headlights on if the daylight is dim or during other low-visibility weather conditions, and always use turn signals (indicators). Always check your mirrors every few seconds to see what is beside and behind you.Ensure that you limit to the legal speed limit in ideal conditions.If you need more help, or need specific answer for any question then try the ‘Carnity Forum’ (http://carnity.com/) section or find car businesses near you with the Carnity ‘Business listing’ (http://carnity.com/business_listing) section.
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  48. Once your car touches the 30,000-kilometre mark, be sure that there will be some parts which need a change or at least a relook to check if they are in good condition. The coolant is one such important element which will need a change after running such a distance. A mixture of water and antifreeze coolant, it is one element in your car which ensures that your car engine does not heat up. The engine coolant also prevents rust corrosion and anti-freeze in colder countries. Considering the hot and very hot climate in GCC countries, it’s important to check your engine coolant levels regularly, if possible weekly or monthly at least. Also, if you have been practicing to feed your car with water every week or so, you must have made your coolant quite weak. And because of the usage of air conditioners in the cars in Dubai, it is best to ensure that there is a good mix of coolant and water. Normally, an engine is comfortable with a 50/50 mixture of coolant and water. Also, keep the radiator flushed to prevent electrolysis due to breakdown of old coolant. Before doing anything, please make sure that the engine is cold otherwise the pressurized system could release hot water and steam het as soon as you open the radiator cap. If you notice that your coolant has deposits in it or the original color (green/red) has changed, then it needs to be changed immediately. It also indicates that there could be a more serious problem inside the cooling system itself. A mechanic will be required to address the fault. The coolant tank is usually located towards the front-end of the car and has a colored cap. To know whether it is time, there are Coolant testers available which are cheap and easy to use. You can go through the instruction on the package. It has enough clarity to quickly understand and diagnose. Some coolants can also be tested with a paper test strip. Dipping the strips into the coolant and matching the color of the strip to a chart provided with the strip allows determining its condition. You could also use a refractometer. Drip couple of drops on the space provided on the meter and close the cover. Once pointed to light, you can read the scale. You could also try Hydrometers, but not the bulb type, as they have been proven to be less accurate. Coolant level can deplete if there are leaks or weak hoses, so you will have to make sure that all connections are tight and healthy. Low levels of coolant/antifreeze could indicate a leak, so you either need to visit a mechanic or use a sealant product like Prestone Head Gasket and Engine Block Repair to temporarily block the leak until you arrange a mechanic visit. Caution: Whichever brand of coolant you choose, ensure that it is approved by the car manufacturers for the type of engine. If you need more help, or need specific answer for any question then try the ‘Carnity Forum’ (http://carnity.com/) or find car businesses near you with the Carnity ‘Business listing’ (http://carnity.com/business_listing) section.
    1 point
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