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gautam last won the day on September 24 2016

gautam had the most liked content!

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About gautam

  • Birthday 06/04/1990

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    Audi, Honda & Jeep
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    Financial Analyst

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  1. I would imagine if as @treks explained, the vehicle has to be moved a considerable distance to get it out of a hole, then a compressor would be best to inflate the jacks. I agree that if the vehicle just has to be lifted in place, then using the exhaust would be fine.
  2. I don't think there is an easy solution to this, but I have thought of installing a dash cam to record such idiots, and then to hand the footage to the cops. Don't know if it'll work though, in the sense that the cops will follow up on it, but it may be worth a try.
  3. @Rahimdad, I hear what you are saying, but there is no denying that technology has saved many lives, and especially the lives of people to who driving is not fun, but merely a way to get to work and back. One of the biggest issues that produce dangerous drivers is the fact that very few countries in the world demand that drivers be properly trained. For instance, when people go for their practical driving test, they are not tested at night, or when the roads are wet, or at highway speeds during rush hour traffic. As a result, few people are equipped to drive a Mustang safely, and if you add to that the fact that the new Mustang does not conform to accepted safety standards with regard to how it deforms in a crash, I am sure most people will agree that it is no fun to be anywhere a Mustang being driven by an unsafe, and untrained driver.
  4. Spray water into the engine to remove carbon? Are you serious? Would you do this if a customer paid you to clean the insides of his engine, and what would you do if you were suddenly faced with DTC P0300? Would you now charge this customer to clear the multiple misfire code? More to the point though, how do you know that this actually works? Have you ever opened up an engine to check that carbon deposits have actually been removed? Do you really know and understand why some parts of an engine seems "cleaner" than the rest of the engine after a gasket failure? Based on your post, I guess not, but while you are free to practice this sort of nonsense on your own engine, I would suggest you post some "before and after" pictures of this treatment just so that we who know something about this subject know you are [not] joking about a very serious topic. Get real man, and research a topic before you post "advice" that could destroy perfectly healthy engines.
  5. If you want big speakers remember to upgrade the battery and alternator as well. Better still, fit a second battery to only power the amp if you are installing an amplifier. However, don't mess about with the wiring when you fit a second battery- Jeeps are very sensitive to tampering, so have the installation done professionally if you don't want to suffer with endless electrical issues after the installation.
  6. Understood, if it just normal resetting, but I would keep @treks advice in mind.
  7. More than likely the viscous fan no longer works as it should. When it starts to fail it slows down the fan's rotation speed, so check if you can spin the fan by hand when the engine is switched OFF. There should be no free rotation when you try to spin the fan, or, you can take the vehicle to Barry to check out the condition of the radiator fan. Interpreting the condition of a viscous fan requires some experience of these fans, so don't think it "looks OK". Have it checked out by a professional mechanic.
  8. And they really thought they were going to get away with it? Ha! Trust the technician to bust them....
  9. Car makers the world over have been lying about fuel consumption figures since the car was invented. Even when they do make even halfway accurate claims, their figures are based on tests at sea level where the air is thicker. The best way to get accurate figures is to visit car forums, and ask the people who actually own the car you are interested in how much fuel the vehicle uses based on town and highway driving conditions in the real world.
  10. I believe @Barry has a license to breed Pajeros.
  11. Crankshafts never come into contact with the oil in standard sumps anyway, not because it affects horsepower, but because a rotating crankshaft whips the oil into a foam, much like a whisk beats air into cream to make it stiff. When this happens the oil pick up can't "lift" the oil out of the sump, which means that the engine is starved of lubrication.
  12. gautam

    Volvo 66

    The Subaru is one thing, but it seems you really are a sucker for self-inflicted punishment!
  13. Very nice job, indeed!
  14. I don't think Porsche is too concerned about battery life, or that 15-minute quick charges will kill the batteries. I am convinced that Porsche thinks that since people have the money to buy their electric cars, the owners won't be put off by having to replace the batteries once a year- until the bill for the first battery replacement is presented...
  15. Compression tests definitely have their uses, but they have drawbacks as well. For one thing, a compression test does not readily show up minor wear on rings, or on valves and valve seats because this test compresses the air in the cylinder too fast. As you rightly point out, the trick in diagnosing a problem lies in interpreting the results correctly, something that is very difficult for inexperienced mechanics to do accurately. A simple compression test does not indicate the leak down rate, which is why I prefer leak down tests. With a leak down test you can actually see the leak down rate, which is a far more reliable and accurate indicator of the amount of wear in an engine. Of course, you need to be able to interpret the results correctly as well, but the advantage of a leak down test is that it will show small amounts of wear that compression tests often miss. On some engines these small amounts of wear cause misfiring codes, and it often happens that compression tests cannot measure these small compression losses, so in my opinion, a compression test should never be the definitive test with which to gauge engine wear.
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