Barry

Hi Syed. My number is 0525713073. I can flash and program Jeep ECMs and diagnose and fix any other problems you might have. I agree with what other people are saying though. It seems like your mechanic broke the car so he should be repairing it for free. The car was working when it went into the garage so it should be working when it comes out. If he can’t repair it back to its original state, get DED involved. They are very good with this sort of thing and come down hard on monkey mechanics.

You don’t need to open an engine to diagnose a gasket problem. This is what sniff testers, leak down testers, pressure testers etc are for. Mechanic is either making guesses and doesn’t know what he’s doing, or he wants to open it then it’s too late and you’re already stung for labour charges. The only time you should open an engine is to repair it, not to make a diagnosis.

Another one My personal favourite, choose your own speed limit

Is it overheating or running hot? 2 different things.

Radiator stop leak can cause more problems than it cures sometimes. I had to take the dashboard out of a LandCruiser a while back to replace the heater matrix after the owner put 2 bottles of stop leak in and clogged up the cooling system. If you can’t see any signs of leakage but you believe there is a leak, you need to use a pressure tester and put 10-12 psi in the system and monitor it for pressure loss over a period of time. If the pressure drops, you can start inspecting to see where the coolant is escaping from. Any coolant leak should be sorted straight away as it could result in loss of pressure leading to overheating.

It all comes down to how lucky you’re feeling and how many times you prayed that day.

I guess the only reason I’m still here is because I spent most of my time in the garage fixing my crappy broken cars instead of driving them. Funny story time. I bought a 1.1 205 just for scooting to work and back when I was building my Subaru. I don’t remember if it was a 1.0 or a 1.1 but it was a clean 2 door shell so I cut the front springs, reset the rear torsion bars and threw a gti body kit and wheels on it. It looked good for what it was. Anyway, I was doing stuff I probably shouldn’t have been doing with this girl at a party and she had no way of getting home so I volunteered to drop her off in the next town. I was driving at 85 just to get rid of her as fast as I could, she wasn’t very nice. I saw the blue lights in my rear view mirror so I pulled over. The cop walked up and tapped my window and I rolled it down. He asked me why I was doing 85. I apologised and said I’m sorry officer, that’s as fast as this car would go. He booked me on the spot. Apparently police are born without a sense of humour.

You know me bhai, I tell it like it is. I found a few more, totally reasonable limits for the given conditions. Maybe this is why mother Ireland gives us so many world class rally drivers/lunatics with no sense of fear.

I imagine this road would be fun to drive on Dubai style. Sending it in a Sunny with a white Patrol 2 inches off your back bumper flashing the headlights. It’s not a limit, it’s a target and don’t forget the 20 kph buffer if you don’t want to be pushed out of the way.

That’s what I was getting to with computer diagnostic too. Less air coming in means less air going out which means blocked cat. I would unbolt the cat from the manifold and go for a sprint to see if you gain the power back, obviously if it’s safe and you’re not going to have flames coming out on petrol lines etc. The proper way to do it would be to remover the front lambda sensor out and screw in a back pressure tester but not everyone is going to have one of those.

It does seem pretty high. What are you getting on the airflow meter?

I used to have the MS509. Nice little tool. You should be able to read all the data you need on it.

Even the standard non sport 106/saxos are so much fun to drive. Probably the best supermini chassis at the time. The rear torsion beam suspension is great for lift off oversteer and you can slide it around the back roads like a rally car.

Spotted a blue phase 2 106 Rallye in Dubai. That’s a pretty rare car anywhere never mind seeing one here. Didn’t get my camera out in time but it was like this

Did you check fuel pressure at idle and under load? Also look at AFM gm/s and compare it with factory data or a known good engine. More accurate than just unplugging it and seeing what happens Check exhaust sensor data and look at fuel trims. How is the general condition and wear in the engine? Are you getting any blow by? Pull the dipstick and see if you can feel any air pulsing. If you can’t get a mechanic to sort it, bring it by and I’ll have a look.

It’s a new shop and it’s not listed yet but I’m in al quoz 0525713073

Whatever you buy, get a proper comprehensive check from a third party. I had a customer in yesterday with a Nissan for a full health report. Car was driving fine and showing no issues but we caught that the CVT was approaching failure point. The seller wasn’t happy but a 350 dhs checkup saved the potential customer a bill of thousands.

I like oiled filters because they catch dust. The dust literally sticks to the oil. But they have their disadvantages. They need regular maintenance and cleaning. They should be washed in a soap solution and dried out before being re oiled. You can’t just blow them out with an airline or you might tear them. If you over oil them and oil gets into your AFM, it can burn the hot wire and ruin it meaning you need to buy a new one. Back in the days before paper filters, oil baths were used to filter dust before it went into the engine. Some heavy machinery still use these as huge paper filters are cost prohibitive. If you want something cheap and easy, a direct replacement high performance panel filter is the way to go. Cone style filters have the advantage of an increased surface area meaning you can filter more air faster with less restrictions. A lot of people make the mistake of throwing the air box and just fitting a cone filter to the intake pipe. This means you are sucking in hot air from the engine bay which could actually cause you to have slightly less power. They should only be used with a proper fresh feed induction system.

I would love to see this in person to see how the wiring works. Something that would be pretty cool is if they combined it with thermoelectric paint, maybe coat the inside of the bonnet and engine bay with the thermoelectric paint and create a self sustaining system that needs no external power source although I think an inverter would be needed. From the video, I have a feeling that it needs an AC power source to excite the particles in the paint where the thermoelectric paint is only capable of generating a DC voltage.

And in other news, all pubs and clubs are told to shut down and stop serving alcohol https://gulfnews.com/uae/dubai-bars-and-pubs-ordered-to-close-until-further-notice-1.72227034

90% of the time that’s the problem. The rubber cracks, sand gets in and the rod jams. You can usually clean it and put some oil on it and get it moving again. As a temporary fix, you can clean the oil and grease off the rubber with brake cleaner and stick the broken bits back together with superglue or black silicon. Black silicon will last longer than superglue as it flexes with the rubber.

I’ve done quite a few rebuilds on these engines. You will more than likely need some head work done. Last one I done that was overheated, one of the heads was out of flatness by 7 thou. All the head studs should also be changed or you could find the gaskets leaking again after a couple of thousand kms. When you have the engine stripped down that far, it’s also a good idea to fit new hydraulic tensioners and chain guides. It costs a bit extra to do these things but it’s better for peace of mind and not having to pay for a second rebuild down the line.

I thought this was going to be like Mattracks. We had a F350 in the shop last year that was running Mattracks. If you have seen Twin Turbos on Discovery channel, that’s the guy who originally built it, Doug Deberti. The guy I was working for used to tell people he built it himself but to anyone in the know, it was pretty obvious when you seen the Deberti stickers all over it. Not the first time I caught him claiming other people’s designs as his own but that’s a story for another day. The Mattracks were pretty impractical for day to day use so they ended up getting swapped for a set of big rock crawler wheels.

Transmission specialist wanted for busy garage in Al Quoz 4 Must have complete knowledge of diagnosis, repairs and rebuilds of both manual and automatic transmissions Must be able to work alone Knowledge of general mechanical and electrical repairs and driving licence would be a bonus Contact Barry - 0525713073

At that age, (the cars, not you) you’re opening yourself up to a world of pain. If I had to choose between them, I would go for the X5M purely because I like M cars and I’m sick of looking at broken range rovers in the garage all day. I see at least one broken Range Rover every day, X5s not so much. I prefer the handling of the X5 too. Range Rover is a nice ride for cruising but I feel more confident pushing the X5 into a corner. Anyway, my money would be on a Cayenne Turbo.