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Barry

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Posts posted by Barry

  1. If you have space, time and tools to DIY then go for it. With the amount of guides and YouTube videos available now, it makes things a lot easier. When I started all I had was Haynes books with fuzzy black and white pictures. It always helps to have a tamed mechanic on the phone who you can call if you get in trouble. 

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  2. Use a detailing brush or paint brush with long bristles to poke through the speaker grille and agitate the sand while holding a vacuum close to suck the sand out. 
     

    If you are getting a crackling sound, I would say it’s more likely there is a bad connection or problem with the speaker cone. 

    • Like (+1) 1
    • Totally Agree (+2) 1
  3. On 3/30/2021 at 1:31 AM, Gaurav said:

    What @Srikumar mentioned here is the end of lower control arm that goes in sub-frame and not under the spring. When we have a tire pop out we cannot place Jack under the spring as tire is fully flat and expanded.

    Sub-frame is fully rated jacking point (please confirm), center to lift the whole car or left and right to lift one side. We prefer one side to put less stress on 2-ton jack within 50% of jack limit (to be safe).

    Just out of my mechanical curiosity, how will spring explode if jack fails? Isn't spring is seated behind the wheel hub and axle and secured from 3-4 points? I rem seeing guy changing my Pajero rear spring last year and he took good 30 minutes of unbolting all around to get spring out.

    The spring won’t explode. What I mean is it will explosively decompress. 
     

    The simplest way to explain, take the spring out of your pen and squeeze it between your finger and thumb. Now remove your finger and the spring will shoot across the room. 
     

    If you jack the car up at the lower arm and compress the spring and the jack slips, the spring will push the hub down with enough force to chop your hand off. 
     

    Coil springs are dangerous things if you don’t know what you are doing. I know garages in Dubai that won’t even change a spring in a McPherson strut, they send it out to a machine shop to get done instead. 

    • Like (+1) 2
  4. On 3/25/2021 at 8:20 AM, Srikumar said:

    The best jacking point for any vehicle is by lifting the lower control arm. If you recollect when we had the popout on the Shuwaib Drive, we used a JZX jack and lifted your car from the lower control arm.

    The space from the ground to the lower control arm only increases with bigger tyre size. So if you go from a stock 31 inch tyre to 33 inch tyre, this space actually increases by half the difference in diameter change, which in this case is 0.5 x 2 inch = 1 inch. 

    Also the lower control arm is positioned below the centre line of the tyre.

    Hope this answers your query.

    Sorry to correct you Sri but jacking a car up by the lower arm is one of the most dangerous things you can do. Not only are you lifting the car but you are preloading the suspension. If the jack slips, the car will fall and the suspension will unload with explosive effect. The only safe place to jack a car is on a solid point such as the original jacking points, the chassis rail or the subframe. 

    • Like (+1) 3
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  5. The front axles can give problems but they are easy to check. Turn the steering on full lock and accelerate and listen for a clicking sound. Used ones aren’t worth buying as you may have to try a few before you find a good one. 
     

    Other than that, just use due diligence and check the usual stuff like bushings, oil leaks etc. especially between the engine and transmission. If the rear crank seal or torque converter seal are leaking, it’s a big job to replace. 

    • Like (+1) 1
  6. The suspension on these is pretty simple. If the airbags don’t look cracked, it’s probably o rings. There is an o ring on the ends of the pipes where they connect to the airbags and another on the other end where they connect to the valve block. If you have time to spare, it’s easy to check. Put the suspension up and spray soapy water around the ends of the pipes. 
     

    Most garages will charge you for 4 airbags and 3 airmatic valves straight away. Some of these garages will change the o rings then charge you for everything. You can guess how I know but don’t ask me. 
     

    If you believe you have a faulty airbag, it’s easy to check on a Land Rover. Put the suspension up full then pull the 3 air suspension fuses. This will disable the crossover valves. Then instead of all 4 corners dropping, only the faulty corner will drop. This will put you in a better position to find the actual fault. 

    • Like (+1) 1
  7. 2 hours ago, topgear said:

    That is always the conundrum 

    Kill switch is off the cards but you can still remove the fuses. Once you get used to doing it, it will only take a minute. 
     

    Although if you’re going to do that, I would recommend buying a cheapo code reader so you can clear the logged codes before you go for service. Service center monkeys will never know. Take it from someone who knows that the service centre mechanics are no more special than any other trained mechanic. They just have more expensive tools. 

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  8. In general, the majority of people in the UK take care of their cars and service them properly. There are still plenty of shitboxes but that is to be expected anywhere. 
     

    Rust will be your biggest enemy so check everywhere. If you see a small rust spot, chances are that it will go deeper. The problem is that the roads are salted in winter and the salt eats the metal. If I drive through a salted area, I used to quickly run a hose around the wheel arches and sills before I put the car to bed. Also be wary buying cars in seaside towns as they are prone to rust also. If you are planning to keep a car for a while, waxoyl is your friend.

    Use due diligence when checking mileages as clocking is rife. 
     

    On the plus side, you will find the majority of mechanics are of better quality than UAE as most have them will have gone to technical college rather than learning on the job jugad. 

    • Like (+1) 3
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  9. It really depends on what you want to do. If you’re planning on going greenlaning or off roading at the weekends, you need a proper 4x4. If you’re just commuting, AWD is perfectly fine. 
     

    Im from way out in the mountains. I used to run a AWD Subaru Legacy. I wouldn’t have taken it on an off road drive but for the snow and ice, it was brilliant. For every day driving, tyres are more important than AWD or FWD. I used to keep 2 sets of wheels. Winter tyres for winter and summer tyres for summer. Proper winter tyre really do make a difference in snow and ice. It’s like night and day. 
     

    If you’re going somewhere north where there is more cold weather, I would avoid anything RWD. It’s fun in the wet but in snow and ice you will get stuck. You can get around this by keeping counterweight in the boot to put extra traction. I used to put a couple of bags of sand in the back. It works but it’s a pain in the ass. 
     

    FWD is a lot better in ice and snow. The extra weight of the engine on the front wheels gives you good grip. If you can keep the momentum going you will seldom get stuck.

    Anyway, I digress, out of the list of cars you posted, I would go for the Forester. WRX models are available. They handle like an Impreza rally car with the WRX power but with extra space for families or dogs or whatever you are into. Whatever you decide to go for, use winter tyres for winter and summer tyres for summer otherwise you will get stuck. 

    • Like (+1) 4
  10. As someone who has worked in garages in Dubai for the last 5 years, I can say that 9/10 cars I have repaired have been either front or rear end damage, ie damage from tailgating. Rarely do I see cars that were involved in other types of accidents other than a parking scrape here and there. 
     

    Also f**k people who like to tailgate and bully other cars just because they are smaller. Everyone has the same right to be on the road and we are all just trying to get somewhere. Having a bigger car will never add 2 inches to your appendage. I used to love my 10k Sunny company car. Yeah your big 4x4 is worth 200k but you want to try me? I’ll put us both off the road and it will cost me a lot less. 

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  11. There are systems available which involve replacing the the original TPMS sensors. The new sensors send a radio signal to a dash mounted display which allow you to monitor tyre pressure in real time from inside the car. 
     

    https://www.amazon.ae/KKmoon-Pressure-Monitoring-Security-Internal/dp/B07W5GB125/ref=asc_df_B07W5GB125/?tag=shoppingstd03-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=387653097570&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3332161968380573610&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1000013&hvtargid=pla-825589466563&psc=1

     

    Other similar systems are available where the sensor screws onto the existing valve stem. This means you don’t need to break the tyre bead to fit them but they may have leakage issues if sand gets into them. 
     

     

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    9E880C7A-178A-473E-8EAE-87D21AF123EF.jpeg

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  12. I’ve seen them in Sharjah a lot too. Always guys on BMW road getting parts. I’m just wondering why more of them are starting to appear in Dubai. 
     

    Re: confiscation, every so often you’ll see them pop up on emirates auction website. A job lot of 30 or so seems to sell for 6-7,000. I often though about buying a set and shipping them East. 

    • Like (+1) 1
  13. I was trying to figure out which diff can go in which car to upgrade to locker using second hand parts etc. and found this, some people may find it useful.

    http://www.usedrearaxles.com/search/Nissan~XTERRA/

    Year: 2014 Nissan XTERRA Rear Axle
     

    • 4x4 MT PRO-4X (3.69 ratio)
    • 4x2 (AT, 3.13 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT PRO-4X (3.36 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT S (3.13 ratio)
    • 4x4 MT S (3.54 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT X (3.13 ratio)


       
    • Year: 2013 Nissan XTERRA Rear Axle


       
    • 4x4 MT S (3.54 ratio)
    • 4x4 MT PRO-4X (3.69 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT PRO-4X (3.36 ratio)
    • 4x2 (AT, 3.13 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT X (3.13 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT S (3.13 ratio)


       
    • Year: 2012 Nissan XTERRA Rear Axle


       
    • 4x4 AT X (3.13 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT PRO-4X (3.36 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT S (3.13 ratio)
    • 4x4 MT S (3.54 ratio)
    • 4x4 MT PRO-4X (3.69 ratio)
    • 4x2 (AT, 3.13 ratio)


       
    • Year: 2011 Nissan XTERRA Rear Axle


       
    • 4x4 AT X (3.13 ratio)
    • 4x2 (AT, 3.13 ratio)
    • 4x4 MT PRO-4X (3.69 ratio)
    • 4x4 MT S (3.54 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT PRO-4X (3.36 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT S (3.13 ratio)


       
    • Year: 2010 Nissan XTERRA Rear Axle


       
    • 4x4 MT w/o off road package (3.54 ratio)
    • 4x4 MT off road package (3.69 ratio)
    • 4x2 MT (3.54 ratio)
    • 4x2 AT (3.13 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT off road package (3.36 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT w/o off road package (3.13 ratio)


       
    • Year: 2009 Nissan XTERRA Rear Axle


       
    • 4x2 AT (3.13 ratio) w/o off road package
    • 4x4 MT w/o off road package (3.54 ratio)
    • 4x4 MT off road package (3.69 ratio)
    • 4x2 AT (3.13 ratio) off road package
    • 4x2 MT (3.54 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT w/o off road package (3.13 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT off road package (3.36 ratio)


       
    • Year: 2008 Nissan XTERRA Rear Axle


       
    • 4x4 AT w/o off road package (3.13 ratio)
    • 4x4 MT off road package (3.69 ratio)
    • 4x2 MT (3.54 ratio)
    • 4x4 MT w/o off road package (3.54 ratio)
    • 4x2 AT (3.13 ratio) w/o off road package
    • 4x4 AT off road package (3.36 ratio)
    • 4x2 AT (3.13 ratio) off road package


       
    • Year: 2007 Nissan XTERRA Rear Axle


       
    • 4x4 MT off road package (3.69 ratio)
    • 4x2 AT (3.13 ratio) w/o off road package
    • 4x4 AT off road package (3.36 ratio)
    • 4x2 MT (3.54 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT w/o off road package (3.13 ratio)
    • 4x4 MT w/o off road package (3.54 ratio)
    • 4x2 AT (3.13 ratio) off road package


       
    • Year: 2006 Nissan XTERRA Rear Axle


       
    • 4x4 MT off road package (3.69 ratio)
    • 4x2 AT (3.13 ratio) off road package
    • 4x2 MT (3.54 ratio)
    • 4x4 MT w/o off road package (3.54 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT off road package (3.36 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT w/o off road package (3.13 ratio)
    • 4x2 AT (3.13 ratio) w/o off road package


       
    • Year: 2005 Nissan XTERRA Rear Axle


       
    • 4x4 MT off road package (3.69 ratio)
    • 4x2 AT (3.13 ratio) off road package
    • 4x2 AT (3.13 ratio) w/o off road package
    • 4x2 MT (3.54 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT off road package (3.36 ratio)
    • 4x4 AT w/o off road package (3.13 ratio)
    • 4x4 MT w/o off road package (3.54 ratio)


       
    • Year: 2004 Nissan XTERRA Rear Axle


       
    • 6 cyl 4x2 locking 4.636 ratio supercharged option
    • 6 cyl 4x4 locking 4.636 ratio
    • 6 cyl 4x2 locking 4.9 ratio
    • 6 cyl 4x4 locking 4.9 ratio
    • 6 cyl 4x2 locking 4.636 ratio w/o supercharged option
    • 6 cyl 4x4 non-locking 4.9 ratio
    • 4 cyl (4.875 ratio)
    • 6 cyl 4x4 non-locking 4.636 ratio
    • 6 cyl 4x2 non-locking (4.9 ratio)


       
    • Year: 2003 Nissan XTERRA Rear Axle


       
    • 6 cyl 4x4 locking 4.636 ratio
    • 6 cyl 4x4 locking 4.9 ratio
    • 6 cyl 4x4 non-locking 4.9 ratio
    • 6 cyl 4x4 non-locking 4.636 ratio
    • 6 cyl 4x2 locking 4.636 ratio supercharged option
    • 6 cyl 4x2 locking 4.9 ratio
    • 6 cyl 4x2 locking 4.636 ratio w/o supercharged option
    • 6 cyl 4x2 non-locking (4.9 ratio)
    • 4 cyl (4.875 ratio)


       
    • Year: 2002 Nissan XTERRA Rear Axle


       
    • 4 cyl (4.875 ratio)
    • 6 cyl 4x4 locking 4.9 ratio
    • 6 cyl 4x2 locking 4.636 ratio w/o supercharged option
    • 6 cyl 4x2 locking 4.636 ratio supercharged option
    • 6 cyl 4x2 non-locking 4.9 ratio
    • 6 cyl 4x2 locking 4.9 ratio
    • 6 cyl 4x4 non-locking 4.636 ratio
    • 6 cyl 4x2 non-locking 4.636 ratio
    • 6 cyl 4x4 locking 4.636 ratio
    • 6 cyl 4x4 non-locking 4.9 ratio


       
    • Year: 2001 Nissan XTERRA Rear Axle


       
    • 6 cyl 4x2 non-locking 4.636 ratio (265/70R15 tires)
    • 6 cyl 4x4 locking 4.363 ratio (235/70R15 tires)
    • 6 cyl 4x4 non-locking 4.636 ratio (265/70R15 tires)
    • 6 cyl 4x4 locking 4.636 ratio (265/70R15 or 255/65R16 tires)
    • 6 cyl 4x2 locking 4.636 ratio (265/70R15 or 255/65R16 tires)
    • 4 cyl (4.625 ratio)
    • 6 cyl 4x2 locking 4.363 ratio (235/70R15 tires)
    • 6 cyl 4x4 non-locking 4.363 ratio (235/70R15 tires)
    • 6 cyl 4x2 non-locking 4.363 ratio (235/70R15 tires)


       
    • Year: 2000 Nissan XTERRA Rear Axle


       
    • 6 cyl 4x4 non-locking 4.636 ratio (265/70R15 tires)
    • 6 cyl 4x2 non-locking 4.636 ratio (265/70R15 tires)
    • 6 cyl 4x2 locking 4.363 ratio (235/70R15 tires)
    • 6 cyl 4x4 non-locking 4.363 ratio (235/70R15 tires)
    • 6 cyl 4x2 non-locking 4.363 ratio (235/70R15 tires)
    • 6 cyl 4x2 locking 4.636 ratio (265/70R15 tires)
    • 6 cyl 4x4 locking 4.363 ratio (235/70R15 tires)
    • 6 cyl 4x4 locking 4.636 ratio (265/70R15 tires)
    • 4 cyl (4.625 ratio)
    • Like (+1) 7
    • Well Done (+2) 2
  14. 2 minutes ago, Frederic said:

    Being the anal HSE guy now: shouldnt that guy be wearing an respirator ?

    The grilles in the floor have a constant vacuum so any particles/fumes are pulled down, filtered and vented to atmosphere, and there is a constant supply of fresh air coming from the top. The air is constantly being renewed from top to bottom so you can't even smell the paint.

    But to answer your question, this is Dubai. This is all I can say. 🙃

    • Haha (+1) 4
    • WOW (+2) 1
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