Zed

@Dare_to_Dream One thing couple of members including me have noticed is: Do Not Trust Garage Instagram Accounts 😂 cc @Wade Pat2 @Chris Wing . Use the 3 methods below: 1. Use Google Maps, type Musaffah so it centers from there. Then search nearby for "Car Modification", it should bring some decent results. 2. One-by-one, read the reviews (you can even translate the Arabic reviews sometimes they give more valuable insights). 3. Once you have narrowed it down to Top 5, find their Instagram accounts and check their Project Photos. Those that are closer to what you want to build with your concept car will make it easy during building (i.e. you can tell them "I want modification just like the one you did here on Insta.."). Yes I know I've said not to trust their Insta accounts, so eventually you have to use your "Spider-Sense" to gauge whether a workshop is full of marketing people instead of mechanics, welders, denters, electricians 😁

Occam's Razor Principle: sometimes the simplest could be the answer 😁 I'm putting the "How to test your Horn Device is working using Normal Car Battery" link below (skip to minute 1:39) so others next time can do this test first before checking the yellow clock spring in steering wheel 🙂

Looks like it's down to 10 people + managers, so it will be a Replay 🎥 of last week BUT with Fast-Forward Button ⏩ *zoom zoom 🏎️🏎️ 👍

Since it's Intermediate, am sure the guys who don't read the forums before driving are gonna end up driving into the sand anyways 😂

@Pavel Pashkovskiy @Mark B First of all this only matters if you're driving in 4LO, but as a part-time Jeeper, I can confirm to this. I always drive my Cherokee in 4LO + 5th Gear, and 4LO + 3rd gear when towing a Patrol 😅 ( @Frederic can confirm this ). The 4:1 is LOW/4LO Gear Ratio, the High/4H is always 1:1, that is why 4L is also referred to as Reduction Gear, it reduces to crawling speed. Link to my old Gear Ratio Calculation post below , but I found another photo that explains better (also below). There are other Ratios that affect calculation: Ring & Pinion (sometimes shorthanded as just Axle Ratio) + Transmission Ratio itself (which is different for each Gear Shift) + Transfer Case Ratio Assuming both Rubicon and non-Rubicon uses Chrysler's TorqueFlite 850RE 8-speed, which is licensed from ZF 8HP50 (used in BMW 5, 7, X3), here is the calculation for both when driving in 4LO 6th Gear (6th gear is where transmission ratio=1.0) for all cars: Rubicon w/ 4.88 Axles (newer ones): - 4L 6th gear = 4.88 x 1.0 x 4.0 = 19.52 final 4LO spinning ratio (bigger means more crawling - less speed). Rubicon w/ 3.73 Axles (older ones): - 4L 6th gear = 3.73 x 1.0 x 4.0 = 14.92 final 4LO spinning ratio. Sport/Shara/SandRun/Mojave 3.73 Axle + 2.71 4LO: - 4L 6th Gear = 3.73 x 1.0 x 2.71 = 10.11 final 4LO spinning ratio. There is an easy solution to this for Rubicon, just switch to 4LO + 8th Gear: - 4L 8th Gear Rubicon = 4.88 x 0.64 (8th gear ratio) x 4.0 = 12.5 final 4LO spinning ratio (close to Sahara's 10.11) OR, Rubicon can drive in 4High with 3rd Gear: - 4High 3rd Gear Rubicon = 4.88 x 2.10 (3rd gear ratio) x 1.0 (4Hi) = 10.25 (very close to Sahara's 10:11 on 4L 6th). Assuming huge price differences between Rubicon and non-Rubicon (I just buy old Jeeps so not sure about new prices now), my recommendation is: if it's ONLY for Sand, then Sport & Sahara as cheaper options are better. You will only drive in 4Lo: most sensors are turned off already + when you're stuck or refusal you're already in 4Lo 😁 BUT if you want to do some rock-crawling and also sand-bashing, then Rubicon is a better choice. Those high 4LO spinning ratio / bigger crawling are useful for crawling uphill and braking downhill at steady low-speeds. Link to Jeep Axle, Transmission, Transfer Case 4L Ratios https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/gear-ratio-chart-for-jl-wrangler.1781/ Link to the Old Gear Ratio Calculator for FJ:

Even my car is saying the same thing, too rich 😂

Easy peasy for Beadgrips designed to hold 8psi 😁

well well well 15 cars, it's gonna be an interesting Train Ride to Al Ain 😁 @DP1011 now that waitlist is officially accepted, I'll have one of each please, as there is no multi-reaction button yet 😁

congrats @Joji varghese 👍🏻

i had the same issue after the rollover, below are the steps my electrician did: 1. Use a meter to probe the relays if they are good instead of unplug-and-replug. They were good. 2. Open the steering wheel cos the horn and cruise control wirings go through the Yellow Spiral Clock Spring thingy. The yellow clockspring was ok. 3. Finally he used the Electrical Wiring Diagrams to probe the wirings, and found one wire needed soldering. Good luck with yours 👌🏻

That's about 50km straight line @Frederic , sounds like a good half-day plan, but only when the weather improves... can't imagine shoveling at 11.30am at 40 Cels 😅

Hi @Simon D if we work backwards from the problem, then you may derive your own conclusion here: So the problem starts with engines equipped with EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation), where some of the exhaust gas containing Nitro Oxide are being re-routed back to the cylinders to be burned off again. But at the same time, oil mist from the crankcase also enters the manifold. The combination of oil mist + exhaust from EGR = soot / carbon deposits, which you saw when you open your manifold (for others refer to photo ref #1 below). So doesn't matter Diesel vs Gasoline, if you have EGR, you'll soon see soot 😁but because Diesel produces Nitro Oxide more than gasoline, you'll see EGR being enforced for Diesels in environmentally-friendly countries. Solutions to the Soot: 1. Yield to the Manufacturer. This is when everyone says "if Mitsubishi engineers are so smart, why they let this happen?". So EGR is a Law-thingy, and they cannot sell in Europe, America if they don't comply. If you accept this solution, then we can just chin-up and pay when the lazy mechanics say "oh, this soot is too much, we cannot clean it, let's buy a new intake manifold" or "the soot came back within months, really? Then we need to replace your EGR Valve, it may be malfunctioning!" 2. Delete EGR Valve + Blanking Plate: this removes the valve that close/open to allow gases to re-enter the manifold and block the hole for EGR with a plate. Note that modern engines open/close valve electronically and have sensors, so assume the Computer does some assumptions and calculations based on EGR. So if you delete EGR, it may throw Check Engine Light. Is it safe? EGR is turned off during idle, otherwise it will cause rough idle, so technically with EGR off, engines can still run fine. Deleting EGR is like Deleting Catalytic Converter, it will throw CEL, it's bad for the environment, but car will still run fine. 3. Prevent Oil Mist from re-entering to meet with EGR: this is Catch-Can. But if you do #2, which is more effective, you don't have to do this Catch-Can thingy. If you love the environment and don't mind emptying Catch-Can every month, then this is the solution you'll choose.... until you find out that your Catch Can is still producing soot every few months 😂 Good luck with your choice, and update us after few months of implementing it 🙂

@Alphin Aloor no it's not faster. The tank is to run "Air-Tools". This is why ARB gave an air-gun to blow compressed air and clean your engine bay or car interior or inflate air-mattresses when camping. The best is if you need to change tires, you can use Air Impact Wrench to open your tire lugs instead of manual-wrenching 5-6 bolts 😊. The theory why an Air Tool (airgun, air-wrench, air-hammer) needs a tank >> "A tank dampens pulsation, providing a steady flow of compressed air at constant pressure. Uniform airflow makes it easier to work and reduces wear on your machine" See video below https://youtu.be/xTtnPCtddyY?feature=shared

Thanks Doc @M.Seidam , the last 1 hour was exhilirating! 👍🏻 Got to test my new skid plate surfing dunes & ripping ridges 😁 There were some sticky situations, but with ideas generation and teamwork we overcame all these obstacles and glad everyone exited safely. @Rizwanm2 was great 2nd lead, amazing that he continued & persevered after the pop-out, managing to catch up the Marshall with just 15psi 👍🏻 @Senthil Kumar great meeting you bro and good driving, hope you get the front hook fixed.

Hi @Andrei S , don't uproot yourself over these small things. @Gary F @Zulfikhar Naiyar @Krishna R should have been your spotters everytime you reverse in the dark, but I guess they miss the trees for the larger forest & night landscape. No need to break a twig though, teamwork takes time and we can learn it from trees as this Forbes article says. It's good you carry that useful tool in the cargo, as any one, two, or tree will think twice before they have an axe to grind with you. Glad we all bury the hatchet last night, except for that one tree. After various non-destructive attempts, the 3.8 Jeep was frustrated, screaming "LEAF me alone!" Alas, since the tree wooden give in, the last option was chosen. And we all have to seed some plants to respect and restore nature's balance. Until next time, Andrei The Tree, First of His Name, Conqueror of Wild Shrubs 🎋, Beholder of the Red Axe 🪓

confirmed @Varun Mehndiratta, just saw there's still space in this drive 😁