hanif

You are right- they were called Colour Tune Plugs, and I used them in the days of carburetors, and especially on Alfa Romeos and Triumph Chicanes to balance the carbs. For some reason they went out of fashion rather quickly, and I have not seen one for many years now. Probably a good thing, because the voltages in modern ignition systems will likely burn their electrodes away in two seconds.

I guess there is no arguing with the logic of the ill-informed, and especially if the ill-informed gets pissed off when he is called out on the rubbish he spouts. As a professional mechanic with 40 years of experience fixing paying customers' cars, as opposed to an "old school mechanic with some backyard tinkering "skills" at best, I am in the happy position to be able to tell a charlatan and ignoramus from someone who has something valid to say, and who can make a real contribution to the forum. It is just a pity that so many members of this forum are likely to ruin their engines because they followed your stupid advice. So take that and shove it where you want....

Might be a good idea this White Point business, but I don't think rewarding good drivers is the way to go. Good drivers are good drivers because they want to be good drivers, and "rewarding" them with two points every month is like preaching to the already converted. A more efficient way to change driver behaviour is to mete out more severe punishment to the bad drivers, and even to take their cars and drivers licences away for varying periods of time for more serious offences.

Hi anonomous, This is a very interesting question, and while I don't have all the answers, I can tell you what I have learnt from the marketing guys at the BMW factory in South Africa. Some years ago I was sent there to attend a specialized training course on automotive electronics, and while I was there I also attended a marketing course to see what I could learn. It turns out that high end cars are designed more to appeal to certain personality types than merely to look like they do. The shape, trim, performance, color, and even the exhaust note are all mixed together to bring about exactly the change in a driver that you speak of. This may sound ridiculous, but it is true nevertheless. I don't know what car you are driving, but it is almost guaranteed that you will not experience this change in yourself if you were to downgrade to a more common car, like say, a Ford Focus or other entry level vehicle. This is based on research done by the shrinks in the marketing team in SA, and what is more, this research is borne out by the fcat that in SA, BMW's are the cars that are repossessed the most. From this research it turns out that: 1.) Most people who buy BMW's in SA feel that they have something to prove. Most people who buy them feel that their image is more important than what they can afford, thus, many BMW's get reposessed when their owners' middle-management salaries can't cover the cost of running a BMW. 2.) On the other hand, people who buy Audi's and Mercedes-Benz models hardly ever get their cars repossessed, because they are in senior management positions, or are successful in business, and can therefore afford their cars. Moreover, the understated elegance of Audi and MB cars appeal to certain personality types in exactly the same way that flashy, shiny BMW models appeal to other personality types. The conclusion of this research is that people who can afford their cars don't have to prove anything to the world at large. In short, these people are comfortable with their position in life, and as a result, they are safer, more considerate, and "professional" when they go on the roads. You can test these conclusions for yourself. Just take some time to compare the behaviour of the drivers of different brands of luxury vehicles. See which cars have drivers that take chances, drive recklessly, or don't always consider other road users. Chances are that many, if not most, of these drivers will be in the same brand of car that you are in. I can only speak for German cars, but there is no reason to believe that similar factors do not influence some people to buy American muscle cars, while others will go for more sedate Japanese or European luxury vehicles. In the world of car design and marketing it seems that personality types, and what they like or don't like is the primary driver, which is why some brands retain their most distinctive feaures over decades, to appeal to upcoming car buyers in the same way that their parents were influenced.

@Technician is right about all speedometers over reading a bit, but in the case of the Trailblazer and a lot of other GM products, the overeading is just the start of a problem that eventually causes the speedometer to stop working altogether. 17 inch rims is about standard for all Trailblazers, and the 60 mm profile should not cause the large speed variance you found. If it were my vehicle, I would start looking for a replacement cluster, all the while hoping the replacement does not have the same problem.

Hi Shams, Yes, adding a turbo will definitely affect your warranty, but that is the least of your problems. Adding a turbo to any non-turbo engine has many problems, since the ECU is not programmed to handle the additional signals required to make the turbo work properly. For one thing, the ECU on your standard engine does not have a circuit to control the turbo boost. You can of course change the ECU, but remember that the new ECU may not be able to handle the signals from the sensors on a non-turbo engine effectively. There are lots of other differences to keep in mind. For instance, the standard ECU is programmed to manage an engine without boost, meaning that basic baseline settings such as ignition mapping, fuel delivery, air flow (both inlet and exhaust) and others need to change to accomodate the turbo. However, anything is possible, but to get the car running right might cost you more than you would have paid for a turbo model, so I would not advise you to try this. You might find that the car never runs right, no matter how much money you spend on it.

Hi Akeem, @Technician and @Saleem both make good points. With this type of sensor issue, a mechanic should check the entire control circuit (of which the sensor forms a part) to verify that there are no power supply, resistance, continuity, or other electrical issues present that could influence the functioning of the sensor before replacing the sensor. However, you mention that you have fault code P1135. On a Toyota this code means that there is a problem in the heater circuit of the pre catalytic AIR/FUEL SENSOR in Bank 1. This circuit controls the heater element in the sensor, which should heat up to about 650 degrees Celsius before it starts to produce usable signal voltages. Conventional oxygen sensors only heat up to about 350 degrees Celsius before they start to work reliably. If the sensor is not hot enough, it will not produce accurate signals, which could confuse the ECU into commanding unsuitable fuel delivery and timing strategies. One of the symptoms of this is an increase in fuel consumption. The difference between air/fuel sensors and conventional oxygen sensors is that air/fuel sensors measure the ratio between unburnt fuel and air in the exhaust stream, while oxygen sensors only measure the amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream, which is compared to the amount of oxygen in the atmosphere. Because of the major differences in the way the two types of sensors work, air/fuel sensors and oxygen sensors are NOT interchangeable, but since they often fit into each other’s screw threads, it is sometimes possible to fit the wrong sensor, even if the electrical connectors do not match. Some mechanics have been known to cut off connectors and to join the wires directly. I am not saying that this is what happened though- it is more likely that the second mechanic fitted a poor quality air/fuel sensor that does not work as well as an OEM part, which could make the fuel consumption problem worse. I agree with @Technician that the mechanic should check out the heater control circuit on the sensor. This circuit should carry a voltage equal to the battery voltage, but there are many issues that could prevent this, such as a poor ground, damage to the wire, or bad connections. My advice would be for you to take the car back to the person that swapped the sensor, and insist that he perform a proper check of the heater control circuit. He must also reset the fault memory, and test drive the car with a scanner connected so he can monitor the working of the air/fuel sensor in real time. Anything else is a waste of your time and money.

Ethan is right- all turbo engines use more oil, but in the case of the 2.0T engine, official Audi sources state that normal oil consumption should not exceed 0.5 liters per 1600km. Anything above that is considered to be abnormal, and the dealer must fix it. Technical Service Bulletin #101103 issued on November 3rd 2012, describes the problem and repair procedure, so let your dealer research the Bulletin. The problem with your Q5 involves both excessive pressure in the engine that forces oil through the crankcase ventilation system, and incorrect tolerances between the rings, pistons, and cylinder walls that allows oil to be burnt. Audi has admitted the problem, and have been fixing this issue in the Q5, A4, and A5 2.0T engines by replacing the front crankshaft seal and crankcase ventilation valve. They have also updated the engine software to reduce blow-by pressure in the engine. However, to get this done you must take the car back to the dealer, and remind them of the class action lawsuit in America, where Audi was forced to repair the issue. As a first step, the dealer must change the oil, and weigh the oil they replace it with. At this point, they must also replace the PCV valve, front crankshaft seal, and do the software upgrade. You must then drive the car normally for 1600 km, after which the dealer will weigh the oil again to see how much you have used. If the problem persists, the only other way to fix the issue is to have the engine rebuilt to replace the pistons and rings with units that have been redesigned. This usually fixes the problem, but the real problem is getting the dealer to actually do a rebuild. Remember that during the testing process, you must NOT add oil to the engine. The dealer needs to know exactly how much oil your engine in using to be able to make the most suitable repair.

@Shafeek, I wish mechanics wouldn't do what this one did. The fact that oil is black does not mean that it has to be replaced. Oil only needs to be changed when it is due for replacement, or after the engine has overheated, which is when the additives in the oil break down due to the excessive heat, and /or the oil becomes contaminated with engine coolant. If the oil has not reached its replacement mileage, there is no need to replace it. You will find that the new oil in your engine is black after having changed it only a couple of days ago. All engine oil turns black almost immediately after an oil change- this is caused by the oil coming into contact with combustion products, and the old oil that is still in the engine- it happens in all engines, and it does not affect the oil in meaningful ways until you reach the recommended replacement mileage. I am afraid this mechanic had ripped you off. Black oil is normal, and it does not necessarily mean that the engine must be flushed. One more thing, semi-synthetic oil is a blend of synthetic and mineral oil, which means that even though the synthetic component adds some lubricity to the blend, the mineral oil reduces the lubricity of the synthetic component, so you really don't win much with a blend, if you win anything at all. It may be true that these types of blends might sometimes offer better lubrication than pure mineral oil, but for a few Dirhams more, you could have had the full benefit of fully synthetic oil that will last a lot longer than the blend they sold you. Also, never change the oil without the filter, or the filter without the oil- this mechanic gave you some really bad advice about this. Injector cleaner in a 2015 engine? You were ripped off with this too; injectors last almost forever, and all fuels sold today contain additives that help keep injectors clean as you drive anyway. The problem with some types of aftermarket injector cleaner is that they can cause the build-up of deposits on the sparkplug electrodes, thereby reducing engine performance and increasing fuel consumption, so you could actually lose money in the long run. Sorry to say this, but you got a really bad deal this time.

Not everything American is bad- a good example of this is the LS series of engines, but a car should be about much more than a good engine. Fans of American cars should perhaps remember that the US is the only country with a set of laws that were made specifically to protect consumers against badly US-made cars, trucks, motor homes, motor cycles, water craft, and even scooters. Collectively, these laws are known as the Lemon Laws, and the fact that they cover cars and trucks only up to about 18 000 miles (depending on the state), should be clear proof that there is something wrong with American-made cars. If cars were covered up to say, 50 000 miles, one could say that in terms of quality, reliability, design, and execution of design parameters, American cars are comparable to cars made elsewhere, but the figure of 18 000 miles, that represents less than two year's average use, says it all- American cars are BAD.

I agree with @Danny on this. How well a car is made is as much the result of a country's culture, as it is the result of that country's view of the world. Germany, and much of Europe, has a culture of being proud of the work they do and the products they make, which largely translates into cars that are better than cars produced elsewhere in the world. America does not have this culture of pride, meaning that American cars are only functional, and merely do what they were designed to do, which is last until their warranties run out. To be fair though, America has come a long way in terms of car design and how long their cars last, but the few iconic muscle cars they produce still suffer from poor handling, build quality issues, and low resale values. The vast majority of American-made cars depend on technologies like traction control, stability control, and brakeforce-control systems to compensate for poor suspension and chassis design. This is mainly because of their roads that are mostly long, smooth, and relatively straight highways, whereas the roads In Europe are mostly hilly, twisting, narrow, and often wet. These conditions demand better brakes, firmer chassis designs, stiffer suspension setups, and more responsive steering to provide better handling than any car produced in America. In fact, the safety systems in German, and other Europen cars cannnot be diagnosed and repaired with equipment made for American cars, because of different programming. Moreover, German cars are generally aimed at high-end buyers, which makes them expensive, meaning that most American consumers cannot afford them. The high-end marketing segment demands car that are reliable, handle well, have good resale values,and says something about the buyer. German car manufcaturers know this, which is why they produce cars that satisfy these conditions, instead of producing cars that use technology to compensate for poor design. I hope this explains the basic differences between German and American cars, but be aware that not all German cars are perfect. All cars have issues and problems, and one of those issues is the electronics on German cars that can be incredibly complex and difficult to repair. Therefore it is important that if you buy a used German car, make sure that you have access to a garage that can diagnose its faults, and repair them as well. Programming on a German-made car is different from a German car that was made in America, or elsewhere outside of Germany, so be careful that you don't buy something that you cannot repair.

@victor is right, but dirty oil almost always affects all gear shifts. It is unusual for only first and second gears to be affected, and especially in stop and go traffic. In this case, it is more likely that there is some miscommunication between the engine and transmission, so I would suggest you have the transmission's electronic control module checked out. This type of issue usually happens when the transmission acts on wrong signals, such as an incorrect signal from a speed sensor. So, assuming that the transmission "thinks" the car is travellling at 60 km/ph when it is in fact only travelling at 25 km/ph, shifts will be rough. The problem is that this type of issue will not always trigger a warning light, but if the transmission shifts correctly through the entire range at higher speed, the hard shifting issue between first and second gears is almost certainly caused by defective speed sensors. The best thing to do in this case is to have a full diagnostic check done on the interface between the engine and transmission to see if there are any fault codes stored. A fluid change at this point is unlikely to resolve the problem if only first and second gears are affected in slow traffic.

Hi Abeer, Sorry to say this, but Audi A8's are known for their suspension problems. However, you don't mention anything about the air suspension system. Does the air suspension work properly, and did the garage you took it to perform a comprehensive diagnostic check? Do you see any warning lights that could mean that the suspension is defective? The air suspension in these Audi's are prone to all sorts of issues, and it seems that because as you say, the car is jumping and down, the system is not sufficiently pressurised. The most common problem is that the compressors on these systems fail, but the really bad news is that they are very expensive to replace. Unforunately, testing and replacing a compressor is best left to the dealers, so your first course of action should be to have the compressor checked out by having an OBD check performed at the dealers. The noises you hear is the result of suspension bushings that have worn out because the system is not supporting the weight of the car. There are many bushings in an Audi suspension and it is not always easy to locate the worn ones, because when the car is hoisted on a lift, the suspension system sags, which takes up the freeplay in the damaged bushings. The best way to identify damaged bushings is to use a lift that allows the car to remain on its wheels. A competent mechanic can then check each bushing by applying a levering action to it. This is in fact the only way to identify worn or damaged bushings, and my advice would be to take the car to a competent independent garage, because they won't charge you as much as the dealers will. I hope this helps, and please keep us posted, since it may help other members as well.

Hi, The problem you describe is almost certainly related to the valve lifters. You say the noise disappeared after about five seconds, which is typical of sticky valve lifters. The problem is often caused by a low oil level, but when the oil level is low, the noise would be there all the time. It is more likely that the problem is caused by old, dirty, or contaminated oil. The valve lifters work like hydraulic valve springs, and old or dirty oil can cause their internal valves to stick, which causes the noise because the lifters do not maintain a proper clearance between them and the camshaft. As the engine warms up, or when the oil pressure reaches normal, the ball valves in the lifters are forced to open, so the noise goes away. The first thing you should do is add some engine flush to the oil, and drive the car normally for about 200 kms. This will give the engine flush time to dissolve the sludge that interferes with the working of the valve lifters. Then drain the oil and filter, and fill the engine with a full synthetic oil, because synthetic oil not only provides almost twice as much lubrication as regular oil, but also because synthetic oil does not form sludge, varnishes, and other gunk that can interfere with the lifters. This will almost certainly fix the problem, but if it does not, you may have to replace the valve lifters as a complete set. However, it is very rare that engine flush and an oil change does not fix the problem. I hope this helps, but please keep us posted on the issue, since it may be of help to other members as well.

Hi anoop, All the other posters make good points, but the real problem here is that the AC can only work with what it has available. In this case there are a few possible problems: 1) There is not enough gas in the system to provide a proper cooling effect. You mention that you have a 2008 model, and it is more than likely that much of the gas has leaked from the system. There are about 15-20 places in an AC system from which refrigerant can leak, but even if all these joints are gas tight, the gas can (and do) leak through the material of the rubber hoses over time. You mention that it takes a long time for the system to start cooling the car- this is typical of a low system pressure, so if I were you, I would have the system pressure checked, or have the system flushed and recharged with the correct amount of refrigerant. NOTE: if the refrigerant has leaked out, it means that moisture could have entered the system. Ideally, there should be no more than 2% of moisture in the refrigerant. Every percentage point more than 2% can cause a drop of 1 degree in cooling performance. 2) It is also possible that the thermostat that controls the internal temperature in the car does not work correctly. If this happens, it may send a signal to the compresssor that the car is cool (as set by the controls) so the compressor stops working. Have the thermostat checked or replaced so that the compressor receives the correct signals. 3.) Check to see that the internal fan work properly. If it does not, the extreme heat in the car will prevent the heat exhanger in the car to distribute cool air effectively. The fan is the only way to distribute cool air, so have its speed checked out. 4) Check that the cabin filter is not blocked, dirty, or clogged up. If this filter does not let anough air through, the system is starved of air to circulate to cooled air. The symptoms of a clogged cabin filter include poor cooling, no cooling, or cooling that takes a long time to be felt. I hope this helps, but as one poster said, forget about upgrades because it is expensive, and often cause more trouble than they are worth.