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2004 Range Rover Break problem


Agustín

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I have 2004 Range rover with 300000 km. 
Seven day back while driving I notice clicking or knocking sound coming out from the driver’s side. At an average speed of 60kmph, but as soon as it obtain to 80kmph it ideally go without a disturbance. 
In between 50 to 60 kmph speed the abs sign changes "On" immediately. Now that signals stick to until the car engine stop. 
I don’t understand literally what the problem is all about. 
I believed it could be typical replace of brake pads. Is it?
I wish it just a brake pad or disc? Or something else.

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This is a strange problem, but we will do our best to figure it out.

The first thing to do is to apply the brakes very lightly when you hear the sound. You only need to bring the pads into contact with the disc. If the sound goes away when you do this, it means that the pads don't fit into the calllipers properly, and that normal vibrations in the vehicle are causing them to "bounce" around in the callipers. This means that you have to have the brakes inspected to see if all the anti-rattle plates are in place, or that nothing is obviously out of place.

It is likely that the ABS system is registering this as a fault, which is why the light comes on. However, you need to have a proper OBD II diagnostic check performed to see if there is not some other problem that could cause the ABS, or other system to activate the brakes at the speeds you mention.

It could also happen that the ABS is deactivating itself due to a problem it is registering, which is why the light stays on until you turn off the engine. The best advice I can offer you with the amount of information available is to have a diagnostic check done before you do anything such as replacing pads and discs. You may not need to do this, since the problem may not be with the discs and pads- it could be in the ABS (or other) systems. 

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Hi Agustin

I agree with Wildcat educated guessing but I want to add that you car problem could be in the following:

- engine air flow sensor as its related to engine torque that measured and informed to ABS for air flow sensor via can-bus (mostly the knocking and clicking sound can be caused from throttle self calibration or inner air flaps inside the intake manifold calibration to compensate the reading difference from the air flow sensor)  

- Transmission internal speed sensor reading (impossible reading or not matching wheel speed sensor connected to ABS)

- finally if you experience sudden power loss of accelerator pedal in roundabout during night driving so I'll be sure that you swapped your headlights to newer model (equipped with adaptive driving light not matching your year model which equipped with cornering light) which mean your problem can be solved by installing your old headlights or reprogramming the car central body control ZKE to switch off cornering light system! and it can be done by "Autologic" diagnostic system.

Good Luck!

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