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Corolla 20012 AC Cycle problem


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Hi Guys,

I am really confuse now and frustrated on what to do to my car AC

Last year my AC started loosing the capability of blowing cold air, eventually it started blowing warm air in the driver side and a bit of cold air in the passenger side.  so my brother suggested to change my ac compressor, so i did i bought a 2nd hand genuine toyota corolla compressor and yes the problem was fix BUT only for few days 1 week maybe. then after that my AC compressor doesn't cycle anymore even in Number 1, 2 fan level in it always running and the cold air becomes lesser. 

So again i decided to change the compressor for the second time around but this time it is NEW but DUPLICATE which according to the AC tech. is better to use new duplicate compressor than the 2nd hand compressor. below are the parts that AC tech suggested to replace which i agreed

1.) Condenser ( Duplicate thailand )

2.) Expansion valve ( new Denso )

3.) Pressure switch ( 2nd Hand )

4.) Thermostat original from toyota ( it looks like just a cable with a red tip )

5.) Compressor NEW but Duplicate

6.) he even suggest to put 2 puller fans which i said okay do what ever you do as long it will be back to normal cold ac

after spending lot of time and Money it finally works the cycle went back to normal BUT after a few days again the problem went back it doesn't cycle anymore and sometime while i am driving the ac stops working so i have to turn of and turn on the ac just make it work again. 

i went to different auto AC shop and all them are suggesting me to change my AC compressor again but this time better to use 2nd hand compressor according to them. WHAT SHOOULD I DO KNOW :(((

NOW SOMEONE TOLD ME TO CHECK MY AC RELAY WHICH I DON'T KNOW EXACTLY WHICH ONE AND ALSO TO REPLACE THE ELECTRIC AC CONTROL MODULE. 

 

thanks a lot guys sorry about the incorrect grammar.

 

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Lift the lid off the fuse box under the bonnet. There will be a diagram telling you which fuse and relay is which. The one marked MG CLT is for the compressor clutch. 

There were a batch of faulty relays around that time and Toyota replaced them free of charge as a recall. 

Enter your VIN here to check if your car is affected,

https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/

It is also possible that the electronic control unit has failed, I have seen it happen on Toyotas before. You need someone with a proper diagnostic computer to check it. 

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Hi Barry,

 

I really appreciated your reply, about the diagnostic tool one of the auto garage used PRO OBD the one with tablet and in the result it is showing that the problem is the SENSOR FLOW ( aka SOLENOID ). that is why i replaced the 2nd hand to a brand new duplicate. 

I am also confused because AC tech told me that my compressor doesn't have clutch anymore in modern car like my corolla 2012 ( thats according to AC tech ) it now a magnetic.😟

is it possible for you based on your experienced and expertise to atleast give me rough idea how much it would cost me. 

1.) replacing or fixing electronic control unit - $$$$

2.) Relay  - $$$$

 

Thanks you so much !!!

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All compressor clutches (that I know of) work through electromagnets. When you power it up, the clutch locks and the compressor spins up. Not sure what the mechanic was talking about.

Get a price for the control unit from al habtoor then you can go to saaja and get a second hand one. 

The relay isn’t expensive new. 

Do you have the exact fault code the garage got from the computer? Then we will be able to advise better.

If it is a pressure sensor code, I would be tempted to jump the pins in the plug and see if the compressor starts running. Crude but it wan work. Not recommended as a solution though, only for diagnosis. 

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I did search for the relay MG CLT  which in the diagram ( picture attached ) of the fuses and relays but I couldn't find it, instead it is empty or which one is it?

i was trying to check this " al habtoor then you can go to saaja " in the google is it a place or a shop?

Thanks !!!

IMG_7001.JPG

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I dunno I'm suspecting a gas leak, because after every time something is replaced obviously system is recharged and works for a few days until gas levels drops down causing intermittent cooling and finally nothing. 

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1 hour ago, desertdude said:

I dunno I'm suspecting a gas leak, because after every time something is replaced obviously system is recharged and works for a few days until gas levels drops down causing intermittent cooling and finally nothing. 

Entirely possible. You can stick a vacuum on the system and leave it for a few hours and watch the manifold gauges to see if it goes down. The other alternative is to charge the system and add UV dye and look for physical leaks. 

BTW that diagram doesn’t seem to match the fuse panel. Are you sure it’s the original cover?

Anything posted here is purely speculation. The original fault codes would help a lot. 

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I have it on good authority from someine was master tech in HVAC working on car acs to massive chiller units for skyscrapers and to never put UV dye in you vehicle HVAC system, it might make the leak easier to trace but can effect a lot of other components as well as affect your cooling efficiency and very hard to flush out.

Basically never put anything other than what your cooling system was designed for.

Although this could be usually over cautious advise usually given by all by the book mechanics and techs and dony believe in ghetto fixes and hacks :)

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Sure, it's good advice. AC systems are designed to run on gas and lubricant. But there are some times a few drops of UV dye added to the lubricant will help you find a leak if you are sure there is one, hence my first advice of testing vacuum first to see if there is a leak. The dye will just help you pinpoint it. The other way is to charge the system with dried air then go around all the connections with a sponge and some soapy water but it's hard to do where there are rotating parts round the compressor and the evaporator where you can't get proper access without removing the dashboard. 

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Knowing Toyotas its probably the evaporator, either its leaking or blocked with dirt, since they are hard to get to no one bothers with them, even in the OP there is no mention of the evaporator being checked, cleaned or replaced. 

Our Safari Land Cruiser would occasionally suffer from evap blockage due to daily extended use in the desert, and Al Futtaims official procedure was to cut the dashboard to get to it, which meant you glove box never closed properly again and would pop open at the slightest bump. And when questioned they would say there is no other way to get to it 😕

Fortunately found an indie who knew how to wiggle it out without cutting the dashboard or totally removing it.

Edited by desertdude
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