1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1 Restomod
Engine and transmission:
351 CI Windsor V8 engine
Edelbrock 4 barrel carb with automatic electric choke
4-1 tubular exhaust manifolds
Custom 3” dual exhausts
Upgraded to electric fuel pump with safety cutout
Custom built air conditioning system for Gulf climate
3 speed FMX automatic transmission
Uprated shock absorbers
Lowered 40mm in front on springs
Lowered 40mm in rear on modified spring hangers
Front strut brace connected through bulkhead
Power steering conversion with uprated pump
Brakes, Wheels and Tyres:
Billet alloy wheels
Kumho Ecsta LE Sport 245/40 R18 on front
Kumho Ecsta LE Sport 265/35 R18 on rear
Vented discs all round
SSBC Force 10 twin pot calipers front and rear
Additional SSBC Force 10 handbrake calipers on rear
Full respray in custom gun metal grey
Front chin spoiler
Sequential direction indicators fitted in scoop
Chrome bumpers and trim
Shortened radio antenna
Vents on rear quarter panel
Original vinyl low back seats
Custom colour changing dashboard
Dashboard plastics painted to match exterior colour
Springalex style steering wheel
Kenwood DVD head unit
Boston Dynamics speakers
Reversing camera screen hidden inside rear view mirror, only visible when activated
I have been looking after this car for around a year now, doing maintenance, repairs, restoration and modifications along the way.
Now I know you’re thinking it doesn’t look like any Mach 1 you may have seen before. That’s because it doesn’t.
The previous owner had left the car with a bit of an identity crisis. It was a weird Mach 1/GT500 Eleanor hybrid. Eleanor bodykit complete with front bumper, arch spats, side skirts with holes for a side exhaust and random fake vents stuck all over the body. When you walked to the rear of the car it had the original Mach 1 rear window louvre and ironing board spoiler.
Now the car has been restored to a much cleaner look with all the Satwa spec stick on parts removed. It’s finished in a beautiful gunmetal grey with deep lacquer for a high gloss finish.
The first thing that hits you when you get into the car is the smell. Vinyl and petrol. It transports you back in time to a place where no modern car can ever take you.
When you turn the key, you are greeted by the illuminated dashboard which can change colour at the touch of a button.
If the car has been sitting for a while, it’s best to turn the ignition on/off a few times to fill the fuel bowl which facilitates easier starting. In this hot climate, the fuel will evaporate from the carburettor if the car hasn’t been used.
Turn the key further to engage the starter motor, pump the accelerator a couple of times and the engine fires into life assaulting the senses. The first thing that hits is the noise and vibration. The 351 Windsor V8 with 4 barrel Edelbrock carb and 3 inch exhausts sounds like thunder and will rattle windows half a mile away.
Engage D on the 3 speed FMX slushmatic box and you’re ready for the road. The Windsor engine produces 250 BHP in standard from. This example produces an estimated 275-280 BHP with the modifications. Being an almost 50 year old car it isn’t going to set the world on fire but it can hold its own amongst modern traffic.
The suspension modifications help the car to corner flat and level and the wide, low profile tyres help it stick to the road. The car is equipped with an open type differential and would greatly benefit from one of a limited slip variety to add some tail out and donut action.
The car originally came with drum brakes all round. The change to a modern system with vented discs with twin pot calipers makes a night and day difference to stopping distances and inspires confidence in hard braking situations.
One thing to remember about old cars like this with carburettors is that they will need tuned twice a year to ensure maximum performance, once in winter and once in summer to account for the difference in intake air temperatures. The old points type ignition system has been changed for electronic ignition which leaves the car a lot more reliable and easier to service.
The new modern sound system performs well but let’s be honest, when you drive a car like this the only station you need is Exhaust FM.
This is an extremely long car and the reversing camera with disappearing screen concealed in the rear view mirror is a huge benefit.
Other little touches like sequential LED turn indicators in the hood scoop, the HID headlights, all add up to make this a car you can drive every day. If you don’t mind the fuel bill that is.
If you liked my review, don’t forget to hit the like button, share it with your friends and get them to hit the like button too. If I get a good response, I will review more classic and high end cars.
My Cherokee XJ engine and g Iear mounts are all worn out. I need to get them replaced. I use this vehicle for offroading. Does anyone have any other experience with aftermarket ones vs the original? Also, I gather that you get the mounts in 2 types, rubber and polyurethane? Which one is better?
The safest option would be to go for the original. But I was thinking of getting something more heavy duty by importing it as I have seen the cost of importing heavy duty mounts are almost the same as buying the original locally.
Hi, I drive a Cherokee XJ 1997 manual transmission. Over the past couple of weeks I have noticed the engine oil indicator behaving in an abnormal manner :
1. On a cold engine it shows a good oil pressure and as you increase the acceleration the oil pressure increases
2. once the engine is heated to normal temperature at an RPM of approx 2k - 3k the oil indicator drops to Zero.
3. when I put the car in neutral the engine oil again increases to a normal reading
4. at low rpms like 1k or at rpm above 3.5k the engine oil pressure is at normal condition
Any idea if this issue is to do with only the oil pressure sensor or with any other part.
BTW I have checked the oil via the dipstick and the oil is at the normal level and the oil has been used for 4000 km.
Set of 4 used: Twice Vehicle used: Land Discovery and Nissan Pathfinder Number of years used: 5+ Years Value for money: 5 / 5 On-road comfort: 5 / 5 Off-road performance: 4 / 5 Overall Performance: 4 / 5
Tires are one of the most important and integral part of your car. I have used Michelin Latitudes tires on my Jeep Commander 5.7 Hemi and Pirelli Scorpions tire on my Land Rover Discovery. I love both these tires equally with an inch extra respect for Michelin due to their softer side wall for extra road comfort and better sand flotation.
While I was in market for tires for my Discovery, there were offer on Nitto I came across for our off-road club and to be honest Nitto tires were very competitively priced. After fair evaluation and considering my tight budget, I thought it was a good compromise to consider Nitto Dura Grappler for my Land Rover Discovery. This first set of Nitto Dura Grappler tires lasted me for 4 years for roughly 60,000 kms that includes on road and regular off-road driving every week. So in end I was very happy with this forcible compromise I have to make 4 years back due to budgetary constraints.
The Nitto tires are made in Japan so it gives you that added peace of mind for your investment. I drove them for 4 years in all sorts of terrain: sand, wadi, rocks and road and here is what I think about the Nitto Dura Grapplers. On road they are really quiet and offer a very comfortable ride although their side walls are not as soft as Michellin, plus with the technology they call "Revolutionary Dura-Belt™ 3 Steel Belted Technology" that gives them good grip on the road in all weather conditions and avoids inconsistent ware of these tires. They lasted me 4 years with total abuse off-road, they always remained very smooth and quiet on-road and I felt confident having them on. My main concern however came how it does perform off-road being a highway terrain tire? The answer is simple, it was amazing as the straight threads of a highway terrain help them float better in the sands, although they seem a bit heavy (which is a bit negative mark from off-road side for stock cars). They served me very well for over 60,000 kms and I was very pleased with their overall performance.
Recently I have changed my off-road vehicle from the Land Rover Discovery to a Nissan Pathfinder. And without a doubt I have got a second set of the Nitto Dura Grapplers again. I recently went to Liwa with my new set of tires, to test if they are still the same or not? The answer is mostly yes, they are still smooth, quiet and comfortable on-road even at 140 kmph and gives you good control with different maneuvers. This time however I found something different in off-road, that I have to deflate more in the sands. Instead of the 15 PSI that I used to drive it on, I had to go down to about 12 PSI. It did well for some time, but in the really soft patches the car sunk, what amazed me was that they have done something with the tire thread that pushes the car upward and takes you out of the soft stuff if you have your technique right. Even though the car would be lifted from its spot and move a bit then again bog down in the soft sand. The trip leader advised me to deflate it down to 10 PSI a couple of times, but I was hesitant to not to have a pop-out. Having to be pulled out on 2 occasions I decided to listen to my trip leader and deflated further down to 10 PSI. The result was amazing, I never got stuck again for the rest of my liwa trip, even in soft sand where it seem the car would just get stuck, I continued to push and felt the tire just found the smallest bit of traction that would keep the car moving and a lift upwards which just did the trick and did not allow the car to bog down.
In conclusion I would only like to say, these are my second set of Nitto Dura Grapplers on 2 different rides, and if I was not impressed the first time around, this time it has surprised me with a change for the better. I am very happy to own the current set and feeling relieved that I have made a great investment for the next 4 years to come.
This is my first time posting here, and I really hope other Cherokee owners can offer some advice on a problem I have with my 2010 Jeep Cherokee.
Last week when I tried to leave for the office, the gear shift was locked in "Park". Nothing I did could release it, so I called the Jeep experts who said he could not tow it, because the transmission was locked.
Only thing done to this point was diagnose a trouble code - P0931- but he says he cannot find the reason for the code. Has anybody else had this issue on a Jeep Cherokee? Any help or advice would be great.