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21 hours ago, desertdude said:

Yeah so this Image result for infiniti qx50 dashboard removal

 

VS

A simple bypass 

:D
 

A days work. No biggie. I used to do a lot of Peugeot and Citroen heater matrices at home. They aren't earthed and corrode and leak. Got it down to a fine art and could do some of them in under an hour. Land cruiser 2 hours. BMW 4 hours. Once you done one and know where the screws are it's easy. The old vauxhalls were my favorite. 2 screws on the side of the dashboard, remove the panel, old matrix out, new matrix in. 10 minutes. I'm not into patching things up, I like to do things properly.

 

Re the overheating. That car doesn't look like its overheating. A lot of people here confuse overheating and running warm. When the car overheats, it blows steam out the radiator cap. Running warm is no big deal and not worth worrying about. When the hand starts to touch the red, that's when you worry.

The hand does look a little low to me. I would plug it in and look at the data stream from the coolant temperature sensor just for fun to see what's going on.

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4 hours ago, Barry said:

A days work. No biggie. I used to do a lot of Peugeot and Citroen heater matrices at home. They aren't earthed and corrode and leak. Got it down to a fine art and could do some of them in under an hour. Land cruiser 2 hours. BMW 4 hours. Once you done one and know where the screws are it's easy. The old vauxhalls were my favorite. 2 screws on the side of the dashboard, remove the panel, old matrix out, new matrix in. 10 minutes. I'm not into patching things up, I like to do things properly.

Easier said than done for you but with a population whom 90% can't even change a tyre on their own, you expect them to dismantle a dashboard? And garages here charge an arm an a leg for something like that. That's where I'm getting at. 

I've done a few dashes in my time and still would rather bypass the useless ( in this climate and country) heater rather than waste time and money trying to fix a heater, which I will never use. Can't even remember the last time I thought I needed one in my car. 

No wait, actually I can remember very well I needed a heater, it was Jan 2009 very early morning around 4 am on the Hamim road heading down to Liwa to set up base camp for the around the UAE off road event. It was very cold that morning and my Land Rover Discovery Series I engine wasn't even reaching temp, so did the old trucker trick of blocking 3/4th of my front grill with a piece of cardboard. 

So yeah 9 years ago I needed a heater in my car, haven't needed one since. So clearly something one can live without in these parts. 

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On 9/16/2018 at 11:33 PM, desertdude said:

Overheating! That needle is on the first mark on the cool side. What makes you think your car is "overheating" 

I think you have other problems, get a diagnostic code reading and live data feed before you start throwing more money and Parts at it.

I already checked diagnostic code and no faults , in fact am sure that car is getting overheating or at least running warm but in both cases its affected the overall car performance once the needle reached to first mark above C or little bit exceeded while returns good once needle becomes below first mark. So definitely my problem is related to heat .

I saw multiple replies that my vehicle heat needle shows under-heat which am not sure weather my vehicle heat needle like other all GCC Specs Infiniti's , so if someone have FX with GCC specs please to share about this matter.

As i said earlier i driven this car for almost 4 years with heat needle just below first mark above C and i asuumed this is the normal.

On 9/17/2018 at 12:21 AM, treks said:

Yeah, and the idling speed seems fine, too.

@treks please see both photos for RPM , considering AC working in both photos.

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On 9/17/2018 at 11:19 AM, Gaurav said:

So there is definitely something wrong, but nothing to panic as it's very minor movement and it returns to normal when you start moving and air circulation improves.

For the gear thud, is something more worrying on what you are explaining that from 2nd to 1st downshift there is a big noticeable jerk

Finally i found somebody confirms that heat gauge reading should be near to C and i dont have underheat issue , hehe.

@Gaurav for gear thud issue its also gone once i move and heat needle becomes below first mark , so i think its also linked with getting vehicle warmed or overheated. Maybe becose the gear radiator is getting more warmed.

Regarding changing gear oil are you sure its ok to change? Coz in last maintenance i asked the dealer to change it but he told me if yiu you change it will destroy your whole gearbox and for Nissan and Infiniti vehicles its a lifetime oil.

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On 9/17/2018 at 6:51 PM, Barry said:

A lot of people here confuse overheating and running warm. When the car overheats, it blows steam out the radiator cap. Running warm is no big deal and not worth worrying about. 

@Barry where you mean by "here" is it UAE ?

for me i will not give importance to little changing in heat needle reading if it will not reflects on vehicle performance and condition,,, this minor change lets the car enter to "crazy mode " as i explained.

 

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Dears , yesterday the mechanic advised me to change the radiator ( of course without bothering him self to open the engine cover at least !!!!) 

I decided to go with other workshop and i should guide the mechanic this time ;)

Iam thinking to start with replacing thermostat then check , next if not solved to replace water pump , and finally the radiator.

Please share your advices how i should trace this issue .

Note : all above parts i never replaced since i bought the vehicle around 4 years ago.

Thanks

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or you could remove the cover of the radiator and inspect inside to see if the lines are choked or blocked as it a old radiator...water pump circulation can be observed after the THERMOSTAT has opened and you will see a swirl action at the cap...

P.S please don't try this yourself let a professional handle such things as really hot water is involved i really don't want you to burn yourself and end up in a hospital...

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Also worth changing the radiator cap first (low-cost fix), as I think treks mentioned before because if the cap is no longer holding certain pressure to open and close then this borderline heating is probable cause.

Then go with the thermostat change / checking

Then go with radiator check / cleaning / change

And last should be water pump change as it's inside the engine and most expensive repair.

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Let's root for each other & watch each other grow.

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Be careful firing the parts cannon, it can get expensive quick and the faulty part is usually found shooting your last bullet. Better to get a proper diagnosis. 

Faulty radiator cap, you can turn the engine off when it’s hot and put your ear to it. You will hear hissing or maybe see staining around the outlet. 

When the engine is cold look inside the radiator. It’s easy to see if it’s blocked up. 

Faulty thermostat can be found by putting your hand on the radiator. From cold start, if the radiator warms evenly, the thermostat is stuck open. When the engine reaches temperature and the bottom of the radiator is hot but the top is cold, the thermostat is stuck shut. 

Water pump is a bit more tricky to diagnose but sometimes they leak. Look for coolant staining around the bottom of the timing cover. A bad water pump can make the engine overheat at idle but when you rev the engine, it circulates the coolant and the temperature drops. 

A bad cylinder head gasket can cause coolant and oil to mix. You will have coolant in oil or oil in coolant. Or the coolant can simply leak into the cylinder and go out the exhaust. Don’t worry, I’m sure you don’t have this. 

50 minutes ago, Gaurav said:

And last should be water pump change as it's inside the engine and most expensive repair.

Not always true. Some cars have externally mounted water pumps driven from an exterior belt. I learned the hard way. Just after I started driving my alternator belt broke and the warning light came on so I decided to just drive home and put a new belt on in the morning. Little did I know that belt was also driving the water pump. I was lucky and got away with just a cylinder head gasket. God bless the old days of cast iron heads. 

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5 minutes ago, Barry said:

Not always true. Some cars have externally mounted water pumps driven from an exterior belt

If you've worked on Nissan's you'll realise most V engines have that sucker buried inside. 

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