adnanJ

Hi Abdul, what you are experiencing is the issue with gear box. ML comes with electronic gear oil which has age of 50000 kms. Best to start with gear oil change with original MB oil and gear oil filter too.

See if it helps. Most likely it will and if not then seek a good mechanic to inspect the gear.

No mechanic is trust worthy my friend, better take to professional one he might charge few bucks extra but will get you quality job. In Rashidiya there are two garage for Mercedes. One is Mercedes r us and second is VIP german garage (something like this). Google their number and address.

First deal with gear oil as i suggest, then jump on AFM (Air flow Meter) as its quite expensive, and more than likely i think that hesitation in acceleration is related with gearbox issue.

If not get the computer diagnostic check in same place (150 aed) that will confirm if AFM is bad or not.

Here are the steps to change the pads on a Mercedes C class.

1. Remove cap from brake fluid reservoir.

2. Remove tire.

3. You will need to remove the brake sensor and 2 pins.

4. Remove the star bolt holding the sensor. Remove the sensor.

5. Tap out the 2 pins with a screwdriver. You can also press on the metal clip that is holding them in.

6. Pull the 2 pins from the back side.

7. Pull/pry out the outside pad first.

8. Once pad is removed compress the piston all the way back into the caliper.

9. Pull/pry out the inside pad second.

10. You will now need to compress the inside piston as well. First, block the outside piston from coming back out. I used the bolt from my tire and it fit nicely between the rotor and the piston.

11. Now that both pistons are compressed, put the rear pad in first.

12. Put the outside pad in second.

13. Place the metal clip back and put the pins back in.

14. Replace the sensor wire/bolt.

15. Put wheel back on.

**NOTE** After both brakes have been changed, replace the reservoir cap. Now, pump the brakes a few times to take up the slack in the system.

Open hood all the way, use red button to lift to second position.

Remove screw on top of the front of airbox that connects it to the 90 degree bend

Disconnect 90 degree bend and move pipe out of the way (or remove it completely)

Locate 2 torx bolts at rear of airbox, unscrew them

Disconnect ECU (2 connections, pull tab out then remove)

Disconnect MAF (Mass Air Flow)

Remove vacuum line at rear of airbox (push round tab in and pull up)

Using long piers, reach down from beind the airbox and find the tabs on the pressure clamp. Squeeze them together and pull the clamp up and disconnect the hose, release and leave the clamp connected the the hose from the airbox.

Push airbox to rear of car. There are 2 tabs near the front that slip into rubber grommets, these need to be pushed back to slide out of the grommets and free the air box. Wiggle the airbox a lot if its stuck, typically the torx bolts fall back into the holes and prevent it from moving well, so lift the airbox slightly at the back to free these (since you cannot remove them completely from the airbox)

Once the airbox is free, disconnect the rubber hose on it and the sensor at the front and remove from the car.

Remove 3 torx screws from the rear of the airbox, separating the hose from the airbox and freeing the MAF

Replace the MAF, reinstall the 3 screws, and remove the pressure clamp.

Hand-tighten a screw-style clamp on the hose from the airbox. Hand tighten only to keep it in place, too tight and the hose will not slip on.

Reattach front sensor and rubber hose to airbox

Slip airbox back into car, lining up hose to slip on and tabs on airbox into rubber grommets. This is far easier with 2 people.

Tighten screw style clamp using long flex drive, should be able to squeeze it between ECU and firewall to get at the clamp

Tighten torx bolts at rear of air-box

Reattach 90 degree bend and torx screw

Reinstall vacuum line

Connect MAF and ECU

Close hood

Changing must be very expensive depending on model of your car around 10k - 20k.

better get it rebuild with DEXOL guys in dubai or in shj, They are damn good and professional in building gear.

Hose is never stuck, its the wiper jet get stuck. Take a safety pin and insert in jet holes few times and it will be fine.

Go with original engine oil filter from Mercedes only, as these sensitive cars are good with OEM only. you can change it alternate though for cost saving. Change at 10k only not every 5k oil change.

Take a hammer and hit it hard, as GL is never capable for dubai offroad. Its made for germany offroad in snow. Here it will melt in sand.

Jokes apart: Check the fuse and relay to start, if not get computer check to know if differential solenoid is working or not. Hope its a cheaper fix else Gargash will laugh at you with 10k bill. Bloody stealers.

Near bell housing.

Get full car steam wash done from down, and then spray rust proofing spray. it can be easily available on spare parts shop.

If want more professional way by spending 5 times money, get it done from good body shop or painting experts.

Get steam wash and spray the rust proofing spray as soon as possible, it will not remove the rust but it will prevent it from spreading and making it almost un noticeable after a while.

Leather is best for long time as it can be cleaned and polished easily than fabric.

Check following in same order:

Starter motor relay

Spark plug

Plug wires

Fuel pump delivery

Starter motor.

This humming noise is secondary air injection pump. they become little or more noisey at starting time and after that its fine.

If it fails completely if will light up chk engine light too. Get it proper diagonstic.

Get the car computer diagnostic check with OBD II and you will find all answers. All light at one go isnt usual failure of merc, it cud be dash connection or some other more global fault looks like.

why u wanna do this? Very strange need.

Remove the central lock device under the driver leg or on driver door inside.

Sounds like your anti theft immobiliser is acting funny, as it has this feature of locking gear after 5 km, and leave the thief stranded on roadside.

Get it diagnose properly or else you might get stuck.

Check the spark plugs, cable and get service if its due.

Else get the fuel pump diagnose and it could be from weak fuel pump when u hit gas, it gives fuel supply with hesitation cause this jerky or limping drive.

Check spark plugs and wires, battery, fuses and relay. If all fine and healthy as per last service done than it is "CKPS".

Crank Position Sensor, which is responsible for starting vehicle and when its dying due to age it shows this symptoms of starting difficulties randomly.