desertdude

Everyone I know who has tried these have ended up ripping them after one or two uses. Maybe good for light vehicles and pickups but AFAIK useless for fullsized 4x4s

I said I wanted to learn not teach!

Can I also join this newbie drive. I also want to learn how to drive offroad

I'm old skook man and believe in what Carol Shelby said There is no replacement for displacement. Hence not a fan of quad turbo'ed 1.3 ltr ricers putting out a gazillion hp.

Well you learn something new everyday, never heard of color tunes before, seem like an awesome tool to have.

AFAIK all obd II connectors should be the same.

Not to say I disagree with everything you've said. I'll say I wont agree to everything you've said either. Once again as in most your post, you bring in your European sensibilities into the middle east. You being a professional should know first hand what is oils biggest enemy, heat. In a climate where its close to 50C for better part of the year, I don't think any oil will last close to 25k kms in this heat. As you know one of the reason why sludge forms is when oil gets over cooked

Maybe in Europe and colder climates like up in N.Amerca and Canada where the temp hardly crosses 30C even in the hottest of summers and that also for a few days in year, you can have such huge intervals. As you you're self said consult your manufacturer and most manufacturers list such temps and dusty climate as extreme duty usage, sometimes cutting the oil interval changes in half. I remember reading this very thing in a VW owners manual

I do agree that also consult you manual as to what grade of oil. I personally have seen people not put in cheap oil but expensive or good oil but of the wrong grade and mostly because thats what the official parts seller sold them as and many a times the dealer himself. And I think that is the biggest blunder that happens here. Putting in 30W oil at the peak of summer time, that oil is not going to last very long in this heat and dust.

At the moment I wont name names here but I pretty much sure most know who I am talking about. One of our members work for a local oil company here and I remember asking him if all the specs mentioned on their cans are true or they just print them out on it with actually meeting those grades and specs for example API and SAE ratings. Unless you're buying oil which is cheaper than bottled water made in a shed somewhere in Saniyaistan from recycled old oil. I think you'd be alright with any decent brand, stick to the recommended grade and interval and you should be alright

AND as I always say, oil is cheap but and transmissions arn't. IMO no harm done to an early oil change with right oil. How much extra you gonna spend in a year if you do, worth the extra peace of mind IMO

And always before our valued internet warriors come crashing down on me, consider this, this is a still very debated subject, there are 1000s of pages on the interwebz on this, you can choose to be on whatever side you choose to be. This is just my own opinion and advise, as always free to accept it at your own risk and free to disregard it.

Thanks

From my cars manual


 

Anytime RD

Well at least you can give Mazda props for trying to improve the technology, only people in the world to have a successful wankel engine vehicle and a pretty good one at that.

Usually what you can do is with a small sharp flat blade screw driver is pry of the plastic housing of the relay, inside you can just press the contacts by hands to complete the circuit and see of the headlights come on. Or you can takeout the relay, then take a small piece of wire of a decent gauge and find out which of the two pins need to by jumpered and then use your wire to bridge the gap, as in insert one end of the wire into where one of the pins go into the board and the other end into the other. But you need to know the which holes for lack of a better word need to be bridged to complete the circuit.
Another very rudimentary and not so reliable test is put your ear close and hand over the relay and switch on the lights, most relay give off audible click and you can also feel the contacts inside the relay.
Relay in very simple layman terms is a operable fuse. Like when you take out a fuse that circuit does not work and when you put it back it does. Only with a relay you can control when the fuse is in or not ( Although the relays function is not that really of a fuse )
Also if it is the relay get the part number, and look it up on ebay, you'd probably get it cheaper and faster than the dealer
For Example 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Headlight-Relay-Switch-Chevy-Silverado-GMC-Sierra-trailblazer-GM-OEM-15016745-/221733789715?fits=Year%3A2006|Model%3ATrailblazer&hash=item33a05d2013:g:unoAAOSwZVhWSOva&vxp=mtr
ALSO a cursory search tells me you should have a similar relay already in the underhood fuse box #45 for the cooling fans, you should be able to swap it for #46 hence no need for all this hoo haa anyways ! lol

P.S: Ignore most advise given. I forgot its a solid state so probably no moving parts in it. 
 

Any of the above manufacturer or any other renowned brand. I'd say more than the brand its the oil specs that are more important, you could be using the wrong spec oil from "the best" and still end up in trouble. For hot climate conditions like this its better to go for a higher weight oil and read up your car manual for oil change interval for dusty climates, you'd be surprised some recommend half the interval for oil changes in extreme duty or hot and dusty climate than their regular change intervals. Because heat is the biggest enemy of oil and it has only a certain capacity to absorb pollutants, dusty and sandy environment just adds to the burden, hence heat and dust use up the oil's life at a faster rate than normal

Those are not creases those are cracks, and if you don't start to take care of your seats it'll turn into tears/rips. Leather at the end of day is just skin and it needs to be taken care of and cleaned otherwise its dry up and crack. The other side driver seats always goes first as it recieves the most wear and tear every time you slide in and out of your car. Keep your seat clean by using a good leather cleaner and then apply a good leather conditioner, that way it will keep the leather clean moist and supple and last much longer.

Even your old P38 had Harman & Kardon woofers in every door, which once again if you can't find the right woofer you buy a couple of them on the cheap from the LR scrappy and fabricate a box for them. You'll need an amp to run any extra woofers/ speakers which you can ditch anywhere example under the seat. Or you can buy an active shallow sub enclosure which has a built in amp.

This is the factory fitted sub box on a Disco , mounted on the rear gate, just so you get what I'm talking about

And the shallow subwoofers

Gaurav what you can do is fabricate a thin enclosure for your rear door and install one of those new slim woofers, they are not more than a couple of inches deep

Serck in Sharjah do all the ally radiators for local racing teams, so hit them up

Moonlighting as a Producer, Mixing and Mastering engineer I can fill out pages on this subject, but I'll keep it short and sweet. Since I don't know your car type, or what kind of music you prefer to listen to, I'm going to keep it generic to get a good overall balanced sound. Technically one speaker cannot produce the entire frequency range of the sound spectrum. So assuming you have a regular sedan, I would say get a decent set of tweeters in the front, placed at ear level, usually the A pillars, And for the doors ( assuming your doors have only a single speaker and don't have low range [bass] encloures built it ) get the speaker with the widest frequency range, between 12Khz to even 60Hz would be good. All this info should be available on the box or the website of the speaker in the form of a frequency response chart. Keep the speakers within the power output range of the head unit. Don't go too low or too high. ( Like your headunit will say 50w x 4 ) That means you can connect 4 speakers of 50w and be OK. Speakers too low can get blown out or distort the sound badly at higher volumes and speakers too high will mean you will really have to pump the volume to be able to listen at a decent level.

As for brand any of the popular and known brands should be OK. Since its a Kenwood headunit I would say go for Kenwood speakers and they could be better matched with the headunit. Pioneer is another good make for DIY car audio.  

 

Start with the head unit first, you could have the best speakers in the world but if they are receiving crappy audio from the source, they will still sound like crap. And similarly the headunit also cannot do anything of you are going to be playing crappy encoded low bit rate mp3s on it. So go in that order. If you have good source material and good Playback even half decent speakers will give you a good result.

Relax, it's just a car, not exactly rare, you can go out and buy one today if you have the money. Although I do agree they should have auctioned it off and put the money to good use for the state. Or maybe they just wanted to send a strong message to others.

Basically a FJ cruiser is a LWB Prado rolling chassis with a different body on top, so do the math.

I was going to say the same thing, check which metal is better heat conductor and that would be the best. But I dunno anyone who does copper rads.

Another thing which you can do is upgrade the rad. Put in a rad with bigger and more lines. I've done that on several cars and its pretty cheap, last one I remember was 600dhs for a custom built core. I have pics of it lying around somewhere if interested Ill put them up

8 hours ago, Gaurav said:

Thanks @desertdude for tranny heads up and I think you might be right too, as in one of the instance while climbing fossil rock area from center (beaten up track), gauge started rising but I continue as I was done by 90% hill climb and when I kept continuing the climb, after reaching on top A/T  light came up too, which usually never popped in last 6 years.

Any ways too 100% check if A/T cooler need change or an upgrade?

You can or at least could get a aux ATF oil cooler kit from Dexol for around 200dhs, it's a generic kit so fits on most cars. I had one on the sheep too. Also if you haven't although I doubt it, since you're so meticulous with your ride changes the tranny oil and filter in a while to do it while your at it. Louvers in my opinion are don't look cool Plus you need a A grade body shop to fix them in right and even then you'll need a lot of body filler and respraying you hood, something I would think about specially if I've just resprayed my whole car.

Agreed it does look shitty, although I don't hood lifts and louvres will fix your low speed heating issues as mentioned in the OP. You just don't have the speed for air flow to expunge the heat. Also just a though this extra heat could also be caused by transmission fluid heat specially if your tranny cooler is merged into you radiator, if that's the case try with a auxiliary atf cooler first. Because both scenarios described put extra load on the tranny.

You can always try the local shabab method of putting in a few nut spacers in your hood latches ( Can't remember if your capsula already had that ? ) which will raise your hood from the rear. I had it done of my sheep if you remember. I dunno about cooling but it kept the engine bay damn clean
 

This could be another case