desertdude

That's pretty ingenious RD , good stuff. How is KD doing btw, how's his health?

No @amitaj the Accord is a FWD and doesn't have a viscous fan, purely electric

That's the video I posted in my first post on this thread

Blocked/clogged radiator, radiator fan/s not working at 100% efficiency.

Bananas in the diffs, Eggs in the radiator, Tennis balls in old sagging springs to firm them up, shoe lace fan belt, block of wood between the axle and chassis on a collapsed coil spring ..why not if you can get of a jam and steam you ride on its own power to the nearest service station.

And for this reason its is almost never offered here, except for high end luxury cars that have all the bells and whistles and even sometimes they also dont offer it. You could say it is sort of a defacto GCC standards.

Go back and read the entire thread

I've done it on my own Land Rover Discovery 1 and drove it at least 120,000+ kms after it without any negative effects. My Discovery was at 320K + kms when I let it go, and the motor still pulled like an Ox and purred like a kitten on idle and gave me 450ish km on a tank .

I can think of a few holes to put that endoscope in ! LOL

First of all depends on what you want to do, do you want a drain and refill or a system flush. Because of you just drain the current oil you get around 50-60% old oil out, because the other %tage of the oil is in the torque converter. A system flush replaces all the old oil with the new, is more challenging hence takes longer, and while you are at it, change your tranny oil filter as well. And no Xcase is a separate job, they tranny and Xcase are only linked mechanically and do not share the internals. Have a look at the oil firsts if it is still pinkish in colour and smells a little sweetish then its fine and a filter change and just a drain and refill should be sufficient, if its getting darker or brownish and smells burnt then better flush it. Front and rear diff oil is also not a bad idea, one of the most neglected oil changes over here.

Thats what I would call a result, not exactly 100% what was hoped for but not bad for something that only used up some free tap water and 10 mins of ones time. So much for all the naysayers.

Been there done that, so I understand your pain. best is if you can look up the part number or just get it off the bit you are replacing and just give them the digits

Isn't this the same Nissan Frontier platform that even Merc is using for its new pickup ?

You can get one of these from Fleabay or Amazon to have a look inside Similar device a doctors shoves downs ones orifices to have a look whats going on inside!!!

@wildcat See thats how you respond, I have no issue at all at being called out at all, but if you are going to come at me with a disrespectful condescending nasty attitude with guns blazing then expect me to return fire as well. I'm a grown @ss man who has no tolerance for internet keyboard warriors You've come back with a very reasonable and logical explanation putting you point across as best as you can as to why you disagree to me, while some have just posted nothing but ad hominem attacks while flashing their "professional" credentials. I'm not going into the whole argument right now because this argument has been going on decades and the internet is full of pages upon pages from forums and blogs for and against this. Its like the mac vs pc debate, there is no clear winner. THATS WHY I posted two methods, one a ghetto fix and one where involving machines, pumps and solvents etc etc. You are free to choose any or none at all. And this wasn't meant for public consumption anyways. I know the OP very well for I dunno maybe over 10 years now? I know very well his technical know how and experience and abilities and he knows me and my abilities as well. I just needed to tell him have you ever seen an engine with a blown head gasket where coolant leaks into the cylinder and when you tear into that engine, how that one cylinder and piston is gleaming and spotless as it just rolled of the factory floor and he got what i was trying to saying. While you cant get exact amount of water injected by feel, so the procedure is repeated a couple of times with different amounts and durations, then add a little cleaning agent to the oil go for a good spirited drive to knock loose and expel any crud out the pipe and then an engine flush and new oil and filter. And you are done. At the end I appreciate you calm and civilized response and there is nothing in your well written post I disagree with completely as @Barry said no one knows everything about everything all the time, life is a continuous lesson, you learn new things everyday and from the weirdest sources. Anyone who thinks that yes now I know everything there is know about a certain thing is the day their downward spiral begins. If you don't agree with me or I've put out erroneous information, feel absolutely free to disagree and point out the flaws or present a counter argument, that ok what I think you said is wrong because x,y,z and we can have a healthy debate over it, and share our knowledge and experiences, and maybe even come to a mutual conclusion. Anyways since you didn't know the back story and now the OP has mentioned it as well, it was one the last ditch efforts to resolve a long standing problem, which he already has spent a lot of time and money on. So before tearing into a motor or replacing it all toghter. Its was worth a try. Cheers

And FYI Mr "40 year professional mechanic" Water Injection is nothing new, Many pro sport companies make water injection kits, specially for motor sport purposes to keep the inlet temps down in forced induction cars, and to stop premature detonation knock in others, they even mix it with ethanol and alcohol but never over a 50/50 water and ethanol mix, and a side effect of this it keeps the insides of the motors clean. There is a thing called Google go look it up!

Oh my feelings are so hurt now, what will I ever do !!! No one wants to say a word earlier, but when someone does, all of sudden a bunch of butt hurt "professional mechanics" with their panties all in a twist with centuries of experience fall out of a tree. Once again you have nothing to counter any argument presented other than "oh look at me I am professional mechanic working on cars since the time of dinosaurs. so what I say must be set in stone" and go on, on a pathetic diatribe, if your sanctimonious behind was so concerned about the members on this forum, should have chimed in earlier with your pearls of wisdom and enlightened us all. Your only contribution here in this thread is that of a drive by crap slinger, so yeah, keep on slinging that crap, because its seems like thats the only thing you're good at.

Why do you want a noisy exhaust in the first place ?

Well technically even auto trannys have clutches

Its a Nissan Frontier Pickup with Merc Badging.

Who donks a Camaro !

Once again no one is forcing you to do anything with a gun held to your head, hence there is an alternative method posted as well as the contact details of the company that does it, the water method is very well know to old school mechanics, ( see video above of Eric ) just because you haven't heard about doesn't mean jack. And boo hoo, big fekin' deal if you get a cylinder misfire code you can press reset and viola its gone! So please take your feigned outrage elsewhere, P.S : Too late, the OP has already tried it and has had a decent result.

Youve seen my current residence, not really an ideal place to DIY wrenching! Its not complicated at all, just disconnect you MAF, take of the intake, pull the throttle cable to around 2k and give it a few squirts of water, repeat it a few time, or maybe a dozen if you feel like it. I remember I used a small tea parcel cup amount of water and took around 10-15 minutes to do.

I wouldn't be spraying water into my MAF anytime soon

If you once again would have read the information offered, you wouldn't be asking these questions. First link I posted tells you what ZDDP is and what are its negative effects are on cats and how it helps flat tappet motors. How is that contradicting one's self? No one has ever said that its only Land Rover engines!!!! Once again making up your own assumptions!!! Go back and read once again, its a very well know issue in the classic car and hot rod community since they also mostly use flat tappet motors i.e mostly old American V8s which what basically the Rover V8 is, an old Buick engine from the 60s Fleet owner replacing oil every 5 minutes !!! So organisations like the American Petroleum Institute and big Oil companies Like Chevron, Total, Castrol etc etc are idiots who spend billion in research and come up with globally recognized standards and then formulate oils to meet those standards, so customers can expect are certain level of performance from their lubricants. But they all must be wrong because you said so! Nobody is telling you to go against manufacturers recommendations, information is being offered ( which you obviously don't read ) if it makes sense to you fine, if not, no one cares. But manufacturers are also known to tell porkies every now and then. Why is VW paying out billions right now ? ZF sealed for life transmissions giving up the ghost because of not changing oil. Here is a link which might also help if you ever bother to read it http://www.aa1car.com/library/zddp.htm Worn out cam lobes and flat tappets due to lack of ZDDP Some quotes from it "All engines require a certain amount of anti-wear additive, be it ZDDP, molybdenum or other ingredients. Back in the 1980s, motor oils usually contained around 1500 parts per million (ppm) of ZDDP. In the 1990s, the American Petroleum Institute (API) reduced the amount of phosphorus allowed in motor oils to 1200 ppm. This was done to help prolong the life of the catalytic converter and oxygen sensors, both of which can become contaminated over time by exposure to phosphorus in the exhaust. All engines use a small amount of oil between oil changes, so reducing the phosphorus content was seen as a necessary move to prevent emissions failures as vehicles aged. In 2005, API cut the amount of ZDDP again, this time lowering it to 800 ppm. This includes the current API 'SN' category as well as ILSAC GF-5 motor oils. Their reason for making the change is that modern engines with roller cams or OHC cam followers do not experience the same levels of friction and pressure as flat tapped cams in older pushrod engines. Consequently, today's engines can get by with less anti-wear additive -- which is true. The trouble is, there are still a lot of older vehicles on the road that have flat tappet cam pushrod engines. What's more, flat tappet cams are still the most economical choice for many performance engines, including classic muscle cars, vintage sports cars, street rods, hot rods, circle track racers, drag racers and even NASCAR. Most of these engines are using high lift performance cams with stiffer than stock valve springs. If conventional motor oils (including synthetic oils and synthetic blends) are used in these engines, cam wear and cam failure can occur. " " Because diesel engines operate at higher temperatures and loads, diesel oil contains higher levels of ZDDP than motor oils for gasoline engines. Diesel oils and contain more detergents and dispersants to deal with soot and combustion byproducts. Because of this, diesel oils such as Shell Rotella or Mobil Delvac have sometimes been used in performance engines with flat tappet cams. But like gasoline motor oils, the amount of ZDDP allowed in diesel oil has also been reduced to protect exhaust emission controls. Currently, up to 1200 ppm of ZDDP is still allowed in diesel oil. " Your "valid questions" have been answered and clarified many many times over now, if you still don't get it, there is nothing more I or anyone else can do about it.