Gaurav

Hi Guys, I do drive an old Pajero (actually very old), please find below service schedule that I saved from US spec site long back, It might not be the most accurate for GCC but it gives an indication of items involved per each service schedule, hope it helps. 7,500 Miles (12,000 km) or at 6 months Rotate tires. Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. 15,000 Miles (24,000 km) or at 12 months Rotate tires. Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. Inspect disc brake pads and rotors for wear. Check brake hoses for deterioration or leaks. Inspect drive shaft boots for grease leaks and damage. Replace air purifier filter (if so equipped). 22,500 Miles (36,000 km) or at 18 months Rotate tires. Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. 30,000 Miles (48,000 km) or at 24 months Rotate tires. Check fuel hoses condition. (This maintenance is recommended but is not required to maintain the emissions warranty.) Replace air cleaner filter. Inspect and adjust intake and exhaust valve clearance. If valve noise increases, adjust valve clearance.(This maintenance is not “scheduled” service, should be done any time.) Check drive belts condition (for the generator, water pump, power steering pump). Check and service exhaust system (connection portion of muffler, muffler pipes and converter heat shields). Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. Check manual transaxle/transmission oil level and condition. Check transfer oil level and condition. Inspect coolant hoses condition (radiator hose, heater hose). Inspect disc brake pads and rotors for wear. Inspect rear drum brake linings and rear wheel cylinders (except vehicles with disc brakes) for wear and leaks of all wheels. Check brake hoses for deterioration or leaks. Inspect ball joint and steering linkage seals for grease leaks and damage. Inspect drive shaft boots for grease leaks and damage. Inspect suspension system for looseness and damage. Check rear axle oil level. Replace air purifier filter (if so equipped). 37,500 Miles (60,000 km) Rotate tires. Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. 45,000 Miles (72,000 km) or at 36 months Rotate tires. Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. Inspect disc brake pads and rotors for wear. Check brake hoses for deterioration or leaks. Inspect drive shaft boots for grease leaks and damage. Replace air purifier filter (if so equipped). 52,500 Miles (84,000 km) Rotate tires. Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. 60,000 Miles (96,000 km) or at 48 months Rotate tires. Check fuel system for leaks (tank, pipe line and connection, and fuel tank filler tube cap). Check fuel hoses condition. Replace air cleaner filter. Check evaporative emission control system for leaks and clogging (except evaporative emission canister). Inspect and adjust intake and exhaust valve clearance. Inspect and adjust intake and exhaust valve clearance. [4G6-MIVEC engine and 6G7/6B3-MIVEC engine (intake side) only] If valve noise increases, adjust valve clearance. (This maintenance is not “scheduled” service, should be done any time.) Check drive belts condition (for the generator, water pump, power steering pump). Check and service exhaust system (connection portion of muffler, muffler pipes and converter heat shields). Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. Check manual trans axle/transmission oil level and condition. Change transfer oil. Change engine coolant. Inspect coolant hoses condition (radiator hose, heater hose). Inspect disc brake pads and rotors for wear. Inspect rear drum brake linings and rear wheel cylinders (except vehicles with disc brakes) for wear and leaks of all wheels. Check brake hoses for deterioration or leaks. Inspect ball joint and steering linkage seals for grease leaks and damage. Inspect drive shaft boots for grease leaks and damage. Inspect suspension system for looseness and damage. Check rear axle oil level. Replace air purifier filter (if so equipped). 67,500 Miles (108,000 km) or at 54 months Rotate tires. Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. 75,000 Miles (120,000 km) or at 60 months Rotate tires. Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. Inspect disc brake pads and rotors for wear. Check brake hoses for deterioration or leaks. Inspect drive shaft boots for grease leaks and damage. Replace air purifier filter (if so equipped). 82,500 Miles (132,000 km) or at 66 months Rotate tires. Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. 90,000 Miles (144,000 km) or at 72 months Rotate tires. Check fuel hoses condition. Replace air cleaner filter. Inspect and adjust intake and exhaust valve clearance. [4G6-MIVEC engine and 6G7/6B3-MIVEC engine (intake side) only] If valve noise increases, adjust valve clearance. (This maintenance is not “scheduled” service, should be done any time.) Check drive belts condition (for the generator, water pump, power steering pump). Check and service exhaust system (connection portion of muffler, muffler pipes and converter heat shields). Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. Check manual trans axle/transmission oil level and condition. Check transfer oil level and condition. Change engine coolant. Inspect coolant hoses condition (radiator hose, heater hose). Inspect disc brake pads and rotors for wear. Inspect rear drum brake linings and rear wheel cylinders (except vehicles with disc brakes) for wear and leaks of all wheels. Check brake hoses for deterioration or leaks. Inspect ball joint and steering linkage seals for grease leaks and damage. Inspect drive shaft boots for grease leaks and damage. Inspect suspension system for looseness and damage. Check rear axle oil level. Replace air purifier filter (if so equipped). 97,500 Miles (156,000 km) or at 78 months Rotate tires. Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. 105,000 Miles (168,000 km) Replace timing belt (except 4B1 engine). Rotate tires. Replace spark plugs, iridium-tipped type. Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. Inspect disc brake pads and rotors for wear. Check brake hoses for deterioration or leaks. Inspect drive shaft boots for grease leaks and damage. Replace air purifier filter (if so equipped). 112,500 Miles (180,000 km) or at 90 months Rotate tires. Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. 120,000 Miles (192,000 km) or at 96 months Rotate tires. Check fuel system for leaks (tank, pipe line and connection, and fuel tank filler tube cap). Check fuel hoses condition. Replace air cleaner filter. Check evaporative emission control system for leaks and clogging (except evaporative emission canister). Inspect and adjust intake and exhaust valve clearance (4B1 engine). Inspect and adjust intake and exhaust valve clearance. [4G6-MIVEC engine and 6G7/6B3-MIVEC engine (intake side) only] If valve noise increases, adjust valve clearance. (This maintenance is not “scheduled” service, should be done any time.) Check drive belts condition (for the generator, water pump, power steering pump). Check and service exhaust system (connection portion of muffler, muffler pipes and converter heat shields). Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. Check manual trans axle/transmission oil level and condition. Change transfer oil. Change engine coolant. Inspect coolant hoses condition (radiator hose, heater hose). Inspect disc brake pads and rotors for wear. Inspect rear drum brake linings and rear wheel cylinders (except vehicles with disc brakes) for wear and leaks of all wheels. Check brake hoses for deterioration or leaks. Inspect ball joint and steering linkage seals for grease leaks and damage. Inspect drive shaft boots for grease leaks and damage. Inspect suspension system for looseness and damage. Check rear axle oil level. 127,500 Miles (204,000 km) or at 102 months Rotate tires. Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. 135,000 Miles (216,000 km) or at 108 months Rotate tires. Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. Inspect disc brake pads and rotors for wear. Check brake hoses for deterioration or leaks. Inspect drive shaft boots for grease leaks and damage. Replace air purifier filter (if so equipped). 142,500 Miles (228,000 km) or at 114 months Rotate tires. Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. 150,000 Miles (240,000 km) or at 120 months Rotate tires. Check fuel hoses condition. Replace air cleaner filter. Inspect and adjust intake and exhaust valve clearance. [4G6-MIVEC engine and 6G7/6B3-MIVEC engine (intake side) only] If valve noise increases, adjust valve clearance. (This maintenance is not “scheduled” service, should be done any time.) Check drive belts condition (for the generator, water pump, power steering pump). Check and service exhaust system (connection portion of muffler, muffler pipes and converter heat shields). Change engine oil. Replace engine oil filter. Check manual trans axle/transmission oil level and condition. Check transfer oil level and condition. Change engine coolant. Inspect coolant hoses condition (radiator hose, heater hose). Inspect disc brake pads and rotors for wear. Inspect rear drum brake linings and rear wheel cylinders (except vehicles with disc brakes) for wear and leaks of all wheels. Check brake hoses for deterioration or leaks. Inspect ball joint and steering linkage seals for grease leaks and damage. Inspect drive shaft boots for grease leaks and damage. Inspect suspension system for looseness and damage. Check rear axle oil level. Replace air purifier filter (if so equipped).

I really want to know what is the deal or reason that all slow drivers in Dubai like to drive in fast lane. Everyday morning and evening I suffer from their wrong choice of lane to drive 60-80 km in a 120 km lane. Do they get ego boost? Are they really ignorant of speed limits? Do they take revenge from fast drivers? Do they get special incentive to block traffic? Do they love to see dipping headlights behind their back? What's the rational behind their choices.....?

I am new to muscle or sports car, and recently got Ford Mustang. Last week when it rained, I realized that in 2012 model Ford Mustang GT Premium there is no rear wiper (im not kidding). Want to know any specific reason relates to sports model or it's simply cost cutting....?

Ford Mustang is my first favorite and my current car, and second is Chevrolet Camaro, third is Dodge Challenger.

I have the pressure tester, feel to borrow if you like (PM me). However, in this scenario your best bet is to replace the engine with best possible P38 engine from scrap. Rebuilding will be too expensive and still have 70-80% of original performance.

Thanks Gdanny, it was tire uneven wear or swollen patch whatever you call it was the culprit. Changed tires and noise is gone, what a relief.

My Porsche Cayenne Turbo having set of Continental tires, looks like they are in half life with the remaining tread. Recently noticed some strange noise from rear tire on slow speed, constant clack clack noise as some loose gravel stuck in the groove. On further inspection in well lit parking, just found out the area that make noise is slightly off color than other part of the tire. Is it anything wrong with this tire? There was no bulge noticed in the different color area.

Hi Shabir, I had same Range Rover for 2 years and even been to Salalah but never got 500 or 550 with full tank. Mine was 4.6, which one is yours? Second i agree with Range is better than Discovery in comfort as i also upgraded from Disco Series II, i think it was 01-02 model. However i was more comfortable with disco in offroad than Range, as i used to baby my Range quite a lot due to never ending electric woes. Disco was less capable (I agree) but solid built for offroad use and punishment IMHO.

Finally got the time to see mechanic and he opened the ICV and indeed it has black soot in it and he cleaned that thoroughly and fixed it back. He also cleaned the throttle body again and remove the throttle nut-bolt additional race that i have adjusted and car was fine and not stalling. After all this cleanup and standard race setting car was idling at 800 rpm without AC and at 950 rpm with AC, when i move to D (drive) it drops to almost 750 rpm without any shakes or vibrations. Drove the car for 20-30 kms as a test and out of happiness and finally after an hour of joy, car again stalled same way like before. Jumped out adjusted that throttle nut-bolt again to increase rpm to stay closer to 950 rpm and its fine again. Any more ideas guys, what should be next to troubleshoot and look into? Thanks in advance.

Thanks Yusuf for your help. Well i adjusted a throttle controller from engine bay and its not stalling anymore. Looks good with slightly higher rev almost touching 1k rpm with AC, still monitoring it and see if i can find the real culprit or not.

My Pajero (1999, 3.5L DOHC 6G74, SWB) started stalling when i slow down. It doesn't happen when i start the car and go, but after 10-15 mins of driving with or without AC it stalls as soon as i slow down and about to stop. There is no hesitation like it stalling due to bad or choked fuel supply or something, full throttle runs very well like before and again it starts almost instantly w/o any hesitation or hiccup. It stalls every time when car slows down like in speed of under 10km. It cuts without fight, judder, or hesitation. Silently motor dies and battery and A/T icon appears then I realize its off. This symptom is not there when car is cold from overnight and in first 10-15 minutes it behaves just fine and after that it start showing this behavior of stalling. Also when it stalls, it restart just fine with little touch of throttle, w/o throttle it doesn't even start. Checked HT leads and Coils look good. Spark plugs changed couple of months back (3000 kms) and checked the spark plug again, it looks good. Cleaned the throttle body with spray, but it still same. Any guesses on what I need to look into??? Thanks in advance.

Damn you Porsche's following the Land Rover footprints. I switched from Range Rover to Porsche Cayenne, because Porsche air suspension is far more reliable than Land Rover, and now reading this make me suspicious of my Cayenne too.

You can buy any one of the below Meguiar products from ACE. I think 100 AED for big yellow bottle and small one came with Meguiar box of few things costed 299 AED. Both of the wax+wash is amazing stuff. My cleaner use this on every weekly wash and car always have crisp shine like new and smooth finish through out. Car shine try the Demon products, they are also nice. For chrome stuff: Turtle is awesome. Meguiar gold class leather care is not very nice and have sticky and slippery feel after wards. 3M and Leather-fine leather care products are good. I even tried a leather care conditioning bottle from Home Center which came with my leather sofa and it gave excellent result (supple feel but not sticky and slippery) lasted 30 + days.

Nice thread Danny, and I understand from what you explain and how things are accepted in Dubai about hi speed lane driving. I feel people drive in hi-speed lane to avoid traffic slower than 80 and expect they will switch back to second lane if rear guy has problem they will flash or honk. Great. However many times that situation comes when right side is also jammed and that snail in front don't want to go above 80km. Slight aggressive pushing turns into challenging road rage and distracts everyone else from the road and cause unpleasant scene or an accident. I believe more than a law, rule, fines we need to educate each other nicely. We all need to learn to give first than take and create that self explanatory situation that you start giving side first to the fast car behind you and then only one day you will get back that respect. I know this approach takes time, but its self evolving and permanent than fines and laws.

Sure Edward, Keep an eye on forum and whenever someone post the drive, you can join. Its too hot for back road currently, will have in few months time.

Brake oil has life of 60k or 5 years, as per many Mitsubishi cars manual. It has no relation with brake pad or disc change interval. It's time based for getting moisture in 5 years or usage base in 60k km. Whenever u change brake oil, bleeding is must to flush out all brake oil from brake line and calipers. Need at least 1-1.5 litres for whole process with proper flushing.

MrTwister, your search and implementation of NOS is really incredible with mouth watering results. Being a 3.5 liter SWB Pajero owner i would like to have more information like: --> Is there any downside of NOS system installation and regular long term usage? --> Is it allowed and readily accessible in UAE? --> From where you got this installation done? --> Is those guys are certified to carry such fuel line modification due to hi-risk involve? --> When can i please pass by to see and feel the power at your convenience (if you don't mind)?

Sure Tony, i also forgot to add that dont try DIY, as you might spoil the headliner. Better let professional remove it completely, clean the foam out and then re stick it professionally. Its a tedious and long job due to precision and patience required.

I drive 2006 Cayenne Turbo and encountered same problem, Naboodah quoted me 12k for repairing same Alcantra and for changing 22k dhs. After scoring bit of alquoz area myself found two places doing this job on daily basis on several Porsche, Jaguar and VW. Polimer quoted me 4k to fix with guarantee and Sara Auto care quoted me 1600 with guarantee. I have got the job done from Sara as they showed me 2 Touareg and 1 Range Rover getting cured in their workshop. Its been 4 months already and no sign of sagging again in this peak summer, so i assume their job is good with fraction of cost. Hope this helps. Sara auto care: 04 3400255

Its been almost 3 days now without a fault at all as im not pulling over or sitting in idle for more than 5 mins. Thanks Milen: Same i am thinking, about battery now. Will get it change shortly, any idea what specs or Amp battery it has? Thanks Milan: Yes you are right its yellow in color and not red, appreciate your heads up in keeping my blood pressure low. lol. Thanks techy: This car drives so nice and smooth that we four people drove to AD at one stretch without any break for tea or stretching. It was very nice, indeed.

Thanks techy, but in my case car remains perfect. With same light i drove 120 kms at 140 kmph from Abu Dhabi to Dubai. Now this error is very intermittent and getting reduced in appearance after that long drive. Since last 2 days no 4WD system faulty message.

Hi lary, i am not sure about battery age as i have purchase the car in feb 2013. About the latest behavior, i noted when i pick up cold car, it show message within 2 mins. Switch off and on and drive 20 kms - no error. Then again waiting at any place for more than 5 mins (idle) error shows up again. I am getting inclined on thinking its weak battery as when car is idle it chews more battery for AC, Music, lights etc and while driving battery is equally getting charged with alternator. Let me drive for couple of days more to confirm my theory. Any idea if this 4WD faulty error is critical or not to drive? Thanks for your help.

Hi Guys, Last night while coming from Abu Dhabi to Dubai Four-Wheel Drive System Faulty message popped on dash in my Cayenne Turbo 2006' model. Restarted car twice but still messaged reappeared with 5 km. Reached safely Dubai and then restarted car, message didn't appear. Played with 4W settings of Longitudinal off or on diff lock off or on, and message appear again. Today morning, drove car for 15 kms (w/o playing with 4WD setting) no message appear yet, more will report as days progress. Any know error or false message history with this model of Cayenne? Thanks.

Lately my 1999 Model 2 door (SWB) Pajero 3.5L DOHC started making clanking noise from engine which used to get increase with RPM. Mechanic advise to swap to another engine as rebuilding this might have some weak spot. After quite intense search (50 odd shops) found one same identical 6G74 3.5L DOHC engine. Lets call this "NE" New Engine and my old clanking engine "OE". Mechanic swap OE to NE and kept manifold, coil, plug wires, injectors from NE and rest all (compressor, steering pump, spark plugs etc) used from my OE setup. When we first started the engine, it made sharp metal hitting noise which slowed down in 30 mins and disappeared in 1 hrs in idle and as per mechanic this is normal for scrap engine that hasn't been run for few years. Once engine became quiet it develop very strange mild missing with noticeable vibration at engine bay and in cabin along with very mild DHOF DHOF DHOF DHOF (faster) (note: its not frrrr, frrr) noise especially if you standing few meter away from car (like dolby sound of V8 or old tractor) Why i am saying dolby, as its not coming from one specific side if you go close to the car or go under the car, its only heard from 2-10 meter distance. Note its not clanking, grinding, or metal hitting noise. Car accelerate just fine (very slight hesitation, not much), car goes full rpm almost instantly but drives bit rough. Car temperature stays at 45% of gauge all the time. No exhaust leaks, got it checked. No check engine light. Noticed few droplets from exhaust giving good engine sign. While opening this NE, all the covers, bolts, coils etc looks so fresh as this engine is never been opened and hardly been used. Just to cure this mild missing mechanic removed the NE manifold, coil, plug wires, injectors and replaced wit my OE stuff, we also throw new spark plugs to be 100% sure. But this missing and dhof dhof noise is still there. While changing above stuff, we did compression test and all 6 cylinders reads 100 PSI give and take 5 PSI. Mechanic who is working on this from last 3 days saying this engine is faulty and its noise from Valve, Tappet cover or pistons. Shop who sold me engine, saying its tune up issue and engine is fine. They are still honoring their full money back guarantee. I am not sure who is right and who is not. Please help and advise. Thanks in advance.

Gaurav - Porsche Cayenne Turbo Im in for long drive or local get together.