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naseemk

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Posts posted by naseemk

  1. Try stepping on gas without AC on and if squeaking doesnt come, then its AC belt need change. Its not critical item you can get it change next month. Just spray WD 40 on belt and this squeaking will go away for 3-4 days.

    If its coming when AC is off, then you really need a mechanic to diagnose in certain other physical ways to find out the problem.

  2. Business people here are so smart and self centered that they dont care about people lives, money, comfort or anything. They just want to sell stuff even if they know for sure its wrong and wont work.

    How do you know you are the first one to return them???? lol. There might be 3 more people must have bought and assumed this vibration is from something else and not this and spend another 1000's in exploring. baaah.

    Good tip given here MrTwister that can save fellow Mitsubishi owners from this.

  3. Battery red light means, alternator died. Just to double check start the car and remove battery one cable (any) and see if car stop running or not? If it stops, its sure alternator dead. A/T light is coming due to battery power is not enough to charge A/T electrical oil and thats why A/T light is on. Once you installed new alternator A/T light will also go off. Its definitely co related. Don't sweat.

  4. If you never flushed the coolant before in last 40k kms, i would advise it to flush all and refill all with Dia queen coolant fully, without mixing with water as its already premixed by 50%. It must be written on it too.

    Here after whenever its low, just top up after few months (if needed). No need to flush then. Coolant usually should be flushed and refill every 40 - 50k kms. Reduction in coolant level is substantial indication that its life is coming to expire and thats why its evaporating like water (assuming there is no leak). As water evaporate at 100 C and coolant at 125 C.

  5. Brake pad has lowest life out of three (pads, drum and pump). which depends on your braking style. From 10k - 30k kms.

    Brake drum has almost double or triple life than brake pads, depending on ur braking pattern (hard hitting always or u plan ur brake ahead).

    Brake pump or booster has maximum life and will not go bad so fast, unless there is some problem in it.

    So to answer your question you dont need to change brake ump with brake pad, but if brake pump is faulty or weak then you should change that irrespective of change with pads or drum. Its a separate issue all together. Dont get mixed up with different things.

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