blackArmada_DXB

To be honest, it is really hard to say what is causing that kind of noise without detailed troubleshooting. It could mean a different thing if its coming from the front rather than the back. In my experience it could be either: (i) A wheel hub bearing - if that is the case, buy a Timbren wheel hub bearing for both the front and rear. Yes, I know, it is a bit pricey, but it comes with a lifetime warranty! (ii) The heat shields on the exhaust manifold. If it is the heat shields that's causing the noise, you can safely remove them. Just make sure that there is nothing near the manifolds that will melt easily. Since you are going to the dealer, they will try to sell you a new set of manifolds and/or refuse to remove the heat shields. If that is the case, drive straight out of there. There are other workshops that will do it without b*tching. (iii) It could be loose driveline front shaft bolts. There was a recall for that. (iv) It could be that your 4WD is engaged full time. It makes a kind of grinding/whining noise while driving and disappears at high speed. Just turn your 4WD off. (v) Suspension components: Check front upper control arm bushes, u bolt, engine mount, etc. etc. (vi) Power steering fluid is low: There is a leak in your PS line. (Titans and Armadas are notorious for this). I have had to replace the lines every 20k kms. One caveat. Al Rowstamani is a very nice dealer, but they will give you inflated estimates and/or repair estimates and try to offset it with 50% discount in parts and 40% discount in labour. Go through the estimate sheet carefully before you provide them with any approval. I can also help if you post the estimate online over here. Good luck and let me know if I can be of any other help. Btw, which year is your Titan?

Welcome! Glad to hear it was just a puncture and that you caught it in time!

The thread has been created long ago, but I will give my inputs on this anyway. If there is no Check Engine Light (CEL) then the O2 sensors are probably working fine. A CEL doesnt always mean that O2 sensors need to be changed. You should hook up a diagnostic tool to the OBDII port and get the DTCs and then troubleshoot and solve the error. Would have saved you $$$.

Amazon.com and get it shipped over here. As far as engine tuning goes, you can purchase a Bully Dog Tuner or a Super Chips Tuner and use it to increase TQ & HP.

Sunny because its zippy and roomy.

I second that. Extended warranty with a SMC (Service Maintenance Contract) cannot be beat.

Welcome brother.

Now that you described it in more detail, it most probably is only an alignment issue. Maybe you hit a pothole on the road and that caused the alignment to go off a little bit. It can be easily corrected with a Dh. 200/- alignment. Sometimes, the simplest fix can seem baffling. You will not believe it, but on my vehicle, shakes start if the suspension and other stuff are dusty and dirty. Does it sound weird? Maybe... but it works for me and many others.

No problem. I am trying to help you and avoid an expensive transmission repair. You can get Royal Purple at Dollar Auto Works (DAW) http://www.dollarauto.ae/royalpurpule.html And their contact details are as follows: http://www.dollarauto.ae/locationmap.html Flush the whole transmission every 5,000 kilometres twice and then every 10,000 kms and see how it goes. Bypass the line to the radiator and let it go back to the transmission. This will save your transmission for sure, in case the radiator completes fails. I can give you more details if you are interested. MaxATF for your transmission and transfer case: http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/product-categories/automotive/#!max-atf-automatic-transmission-fluid MaxGear for your differentials: http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/product-categories/automotive/#!max-gear

benson wrote: > hi friends. i have a 2006 Nissan Pathfinder. a few months ago the transmission started > getting a little sticky but i didn't take it too seriously. then it got increasingly > harder to shift gears. now shifting gears requires more strength than an arm-wrestling > match not to mention the terrible shuttering sound it makes. my research tells me > i am heading towards a total transmission failure. have any other Pathfinder owners > ever had this problem? any suggestions? I don't know you and you don't know me. But I am going to ask you a very basic question. What did you do when you first observed that the transmission was shifting weird? Did you check the transmission oil level in your car? Did you check if the transmission lines were blown or leaking thereby emptying the transmission oil in your car? Did you flush out the transmission oil and put in new oil? Don't get me wrong here. I am not calling you irresponsible; but it is easy to miss the basic maintenance checks/actions that need to be performed on a SUV. What would I do if I were in your position? This is what I would do in the following order: 1) STOP DRIVING THE CAR IMMEDIATELY. 2) Check all fluid levels in your car. This includes Engine Oil, Transmission fluid, Transfer Case fluid, Front Differential and Rear Differential. 3) If all the levels check out, TOW your car to the nearest trusted mechanic. 4) Purchase oils that fulfill or exceed Nissan specs. Royal Purple is a personal favorite of mine. You will never ever be sorry if you switch to Royal Purple Max ATF and 75w90 oils. 5) Flush the transmission oil by using Nissan's recommended method. This involves: (i) Drain and fill Transmission oil in the Transfer Case and Transmission Pan. (ii) Disconnect the transmission cooler line, start the engine. (iii) Old dirty transmission fluid will start to come out. Keep topping up the fluid till the fluid turns to the colour of new transmission fluid. (iv) Stop engine, check transmission fluid level and top up if necessary. (v) Check level again after driving for a few miles and then once again before a cold start. Top up if necessary. DO NOT USE ANY AFTERMARKET FLUSHING MECHANISMS AND ALWAYS USE THE RECOMMENDED NISSAN METHOD. IT IS CHEAP, SAFE AND EFFECTIVE. 6) Do a drain and fill on the front and rear differentials. Redline has a high viscosity product that maybe used if you want additional protection. It provides thicker viscosity like property while still maintaining low friction. You should look it up on their website. However, Royal Purple or Nissan OEM fluids will do just fine. 7) Once this is done, test drive the car. If you still feel that the transmission is not behaving as it should, then unfortunately, you might need to take it in for a rebuild. Regarding other posts on the permanent fix for this, I disagree completely. CHANGING THE RADIATOR IS ONLY A TEMPORARY FIX. If you want a permanent fix, you need to change the OEM radiator for an aftermarket one and BYPASS THE RADIATOR. Bypassing the radiator can be done in two ways: 1) You can disconnect the line going from the OEM transmission cooler to the radiator and connect it directly back to the transmission. 2) Install an external transmission cooler and then plug the lines that are supposed to go to the Radiator into the cooler. If you do the above, no matter what happens to the radiator, your transmission will be protected. Good luck and hopefully you will install a $70 external transmission cooler and be done with it.

I don't know why you say you are a person with limited choices. Is it because you are a girl? Nevermind all that. I am going to cut straight to the chase. I am guessing you drive a Tiida. The first thing you need to check is the following (in the same order): 1) Check if the air pressure in all four tires is the same and as per the manufacturer's recommendation. 2) Get your car to a good alignment shop. Since you're Tiida is a 2WD, it should be pretty easy to align. 3) When you are at the alignment shop ask them if any suspension parts have been bent or broken. If they have been, replace it. If you have changed your oil in time, there is no need to get any sort of engine work done on your Nissan. Let me know if you need any more help on this matter.