treks

11 hours ago, desertdude said:

Rather pointless I must say. 

I agree, I can't think of a single practical advantage this set-up could possibly have. I'm also thinking that this was a proof-of-concept design that was dropped when the designers realized that the whole thing was more trouble than it was worth.

Low oil pressure will illuminate the warning light regardless of whether you are in Drive or Reverse. I agree with @desertdude, this is more like to be a ground or wiring issue than anything else.

On 7/25/2019 at 2:09 PM, Barry said:

I haven’t seen anyone post the real reason why having too much oil in the engine is bad. 

If the oil level is too high and the crankshaft touches the surface, it will create bubbles in the oil as it dips in and out. Think of it like whisking an egg white. It doesn’t take long to turn the egg white into a nice thick foamy meringue. Well the same thing will happen to the oil. It doesn’t take long for all the oil to turn to foam and fill the engine. 

The big problem here is that the oil pump is designed to pump liquid. It’s not designed to pump foam and bubbles so critical engine parts aren’t getting properly lubricated. The bearings, rings etc soon heat up and seize due to oil starvation. Having too much oil can cause same effect as if you ran the engine with no oil in it. 

All of this is true but at the time this thread first came up, I was too lazy to type out a long post. 

14 hours ago, desertdude said:

I'll call your Pffts and raise you a blegh!

OK, I'll go all in and say that a fully working, and road legal version of this monstrosity will never see the light of day.  

4 hours ago, desertdude said:

Meh!

 

I'll see your Meh!, and raise you a couple of Pftts. 

1 hour ago, Gaurav said:

This thread becoming like a ship and a hammer story now.

Everyday new suspense popping up with thrilling angle.

 

Especially the bit about the "black part of the crankshaft". I should remember that one...

19 hours ago, Sidshk said:

I think its meas it has some imperfection to its shape rather than thickness 

Correct.

5 hours ago, Sidshk said:

Update 

Went to workshop  and found my Drums are out (don't knw wats it means ) but has good thickness, so they polished it and fixed it as per mechanic it can work for some more time and no need to worry.

Cost of per drum from Divya spare store - AED 270 + VAT 

so as of now just sticking with old , after polish and change of break pads vibrations are almost gone 

It will just come back. There is no way that disc run-out can be polished away. 

2 minutes ago, Gaurav said:

That's your call completely, but if Future tyre can spot a loose nut in one lift then previous guy should have also pointed before 1700 dhs spend. I agree it may not be greed but simple take it for granted attitude or too busy for proper diagnose, because if they knew that loose nut can bring some relief, they would have tighten it too to gain at least half a feather on their cap. Whatever the case it maybe, your 1700 gone, now how you convince yourself, its all in your mind.

Now table can turn INSTANTLY if you would have push them back with guarantee and then they will lift the car, lick the car and smell every corner for the real culprit.

This describes the difference between mechanics and professional mechanics. Being a professional is NOT all about how much you know- it's is ALL about having the best interests of your customers foremost in your mind. 

The doctrine of "Do No Harm" counts for professional mechanics as much as it does for doctors.  

I've always found this set up weird, but somehow they go it to work based on the firing order, which limits scavenging during valve overlap. I agree though, one barrel for each cylinder makes more sense. 

It is unlikely that the springs will settle. They were made to support a specific load for many years without sagging or losing their tension, so if they do "settle", it means that they have lost some of their temper, and therefore, their ability to support the load they were designed to support.

It's a question of what comes first- 

A) the springs settling, or B), Gaurav's spinal vertebrae giving out...  

Is this Chevy a project?

If it is, the first thing I would do is to check and rebuild the carb spindles, and then fabricate a proper linkage between the carbs to remove all free play. Looking at this setup, there is no way you will ever get those carbs synchronized, let alone balanced- even with calibrated vacuum gauges.   

Were there Chinese contractors involved in the development/building of Sports City? That might explain the manholes...

Some ideas- 

Excessive disc run out caused by warped or deformed discs. In some cases, this can be caused by over tightening wheel nuts/bolts.

Worn steering/suspension parts such as ball joints, tie rod ends, steering rack bushes, and control arm bushes. 

Every workshop should have at least one resident cat.

Bad ignition coil(s) will set misfire codes, but I do agree with you about the cause involving bad driveshaft(s). 

On 6/27/2019 at 4:12 PM, sertac said:

There are many good things to learn. You dont need to learn this one believe me

I'll take your word for it, then.

On 6/28/2019 at 11:33 PM, Gaurav said:

Although most of the time the electrical fire is controllable by a car fire extinguisher,

I agree with @Barry- the types of fire extinguishers people keep in their cars are mostly absolutely useless, hence the quote from Gaurav's post. 

Moreover, once a car catches fire, it hardly matters what caused the fire, and debating the percentages of possible causes becomes a useless exercise. I have like @Barry seen cars catch fire, and in my experience, the only thing you can do when your car catches fire is to get out of it, and away from it as fast as you can- taking only your children with you if they are in the car. 

Doing something stupid like opening the bonnet to see what caused the fire only feeds the fire with oxygen, so don't do it. If the fire starts in the passenger compartment, and the windows are closed, get out, and shut the doors to starve the fire of oxygen. If the windows are open, get out, and get away as fast as you can- again taking only your children with you. 

In short, once a car fire takes hold there is nothing you can do to stop it, but Gaurav's post contains some good advice on how to prevent your car catching fire- except the bit about car fire extinguishers being effective against electrical fires. The only time this might be true is when you can actually see and reach the fire, which is not possible if the fire starts under the dashboard, for instance. 

 

4 hours ago, Barry said:

When you’re learning a new language it’s best to learn the useful phrases first 😊

I love learning useful phrases in new languages, but Google translate is useless in this instance..

18 hours ago, desertdude said:

Not your fault, you are not familiar with the dealers here. There is no such thing as repair in their vocabulary. It's only replace. 

I wouldn't be too surprised if they say the whole trans has to he replaced at a price which probably exceeds the price the vehicle was bought at.

I take your point on this...

I would not start replacing solenoids just yet. P1595 means that there are issues present in one or more circuits (as opposed to failing solenoids). However, finding this issue is PITA on Jeeps and many Chrysler products, since it involves testing the brake light circuit, and dedicated circuits between the solenoids and the PCM. To do this you need Jeep/Chrysler specific scan tool that has the ability to activate each suspect solenoid individually.

If @Barry has the time, I suggest you have him do this, or if he does not have the time, to take the vehicle to the dealer. These circuits have to be tested in a particular order of steps, and if you get this order wrong, you can spend days looking for the fault and never find it. Good luck!   

2 hours ago, desertdude said:

Bits and bobs are common among several platforms. Do a little research and you'll probably find that some mass produced shitty model also used the same steering box. 

Might even be in another brand name too if the box was made by a third party.

Like I found out my Oh so expensive blower motor for my old range rover was made by Valeo and new one which fits into some Scania truck is also the sae amd new is for 55dhs! 

I agree. @Barry will probably find that at least half a dozen other Mercedes models have used the same box for donkey's years. 

"Steering torque" is Mercedes-speak for excessive free play in the steering box.

The adjustment you see is actually to remove steering slop, but if the gears are too worn, taking up the slack in the straight ahead position might cause the box to bind at or close to full lock. Anyway, try adjusting the box and see what happens- with some luck you might be able to remove the slop without causing binding at full lock. 

Just now, desertdude said:

Lot of things comes from defense and space research mostly because they have huge budgets and dont need to show a profit like other companies.Even something as mundane and everyday thing like velcro was invented by NASA. 

...to hold things down in the Space Shuttle, and like everything else developed for the space program, it probably cost millions of dollars to design, develop, and test.