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Zed

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Everything posted by Zed

  1. Saw this few weeks back https://www.instagram.com/p/CVpUPcrFvO_/?utm_medium=copy_link
  2. Thank you @Mehmet Volga for leading today's drive and bringing us all safely to the starting point 👍🏻 Well-noted on the advice captain, I had a look at the video and realized my mistake was because I didn't want to crash into the 2 trees, I overspeeded and missed turning down (from where i was sitting it looked like there is still more sand in front, didn't know it belonged to the other side 😂). Alhamdulillah we are all safe 🙏🏻 Great support from @JeromeFJ he was shepherding those "lost sheeps" back into the main track. @Pacific great to have another Banter Buddy in the convoy, you lifted up the spirits from the Middle of the Convoy, supporting very well everytime an unnamed driver blame the 2nd lead for churning out the sand 😅 Thank you Sweihan Boys @Hasan Wahlan @Farouq Owdeh @Josh T. @Karthikeyan Govindarajan for driving today, great camaraderie & reunion after some time 👍🏻
  3. sorry to hear that @Warren Flay, I thought you'll be getting more fun than us, but seems no matter where we go in Sweihan, the bulldozers have "cut" the play areas living room for only short & small side-slopings...
  4. Thanks @Lawrence_Chehimi , long time back the definition of Intermediate was "...a mix of Newbie, Fewbie (50%) and 2 Fewbie plus" so I probably fit the bill as an old guard 😂
  5. wohoo congrats @Werno 👍🏻 looking forward to future drives 😊
  6. Congrats @Adnan Halepota, going strong with the Prado 👍🏻😊
  7. Sorry brother @M.Seidam , something came up and I have removed myself from Waiting List...
  8. @Asif Hussain @Shaaz Sha @Jeepie @Looper @Josh T. @Gok Krish @Karthikeyan Govindarajan @Chris Wing @Xavier Treasurer the drone videos are finally here (a week late better than nothing 😁) All your photos & videos are also in this Shared Google Drive (will delete after a month to save space): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1fZiLd7W72NA22CAisBgQHshLopXMgumO?usp=sharing Drone Vids:
  9. on stock wheels, I run 10 psi lowest. After installing Bead Grip wheels I got overconfident and went 8 psi for 2 weeks. But then overconfidence is not always a good thing, so I strike the middle-ground and set it to 9 psi 😁
  10. thank you @Lawrence_Chehimi for correcting me, you're right bro: during Bumpy Climbs you will lose momentum due to the bumps (wheel off the sand) + the time the wheel goes back to the sand (suspension rebound). In that case, you will benefit from Suspension Systems that can be adjusted to High/Firm Compression and Low/Soft Rebound... cc @ShereenMK this may be what RedFox is trying to say, but note this kind of suspension is expensive 😃 Although for Carnity drives I'd just use the cheat method: choose a new path that has no bumps 😁
  11. hi @ShereenMK I haven't met RedFox but I assume this is a garage, or an offroad team affiliated with a garage? Any advice, even from me, should be taken with a grain of salt and think abut it for a while before you decide on something 🙂 With that in mind, I don't see how a lift, with any brand (from ProFender to Kings) can affect power, as the main purpose is for better suspension during offroad and an extra 1"-2" higher ground clearance. Let's instead use Physics and see how we can tackle our original problem: losing power (assuming this is during a climb) 1. Newton's third law of motion: Buy new tires & deflate Basically the road is pushing the tires to move forward. So the tires need to have a good grip (high friction) in order to move the car forward. Sometimes when you buy old car, the tires are also old, so it's better to replace them. Once you get new rubber for the car, read the sand and deflate between 10-12 psi. Sweihan and Liwa are 10 psi sand. Yes you may get pop-outs, but that's for another lesson 😃 You want to get friction on the sand as this will help your car accelerate, otherwise even a powerful 300hp engine will just dig itself into the sand 😁 2. Power = Torque X angular motion : Drive in 4H 1st Gear (for LC) The Power of a car remains constant. According to LC Wikipedia, your Inline-6 has a higher horsepower of 241hp compared to my V8 that only has 228hp. Torque is needed to move the car from parking position, once you get momentum, torque is reduced and you shift into higher gears. So, during a climb, to get maximum power, you need to be in 4H 1st Gear (lower angular motion) in order to produce the maximum torque to get the maximum power. Do not shift into 2 or even drive in D automatic (LC100 has a lazy automatic tuned for fuel saving and not power). 3. Newton's second law of motion: Throw away Junk and reduce weight The good thing with big SUV is that they come with engine with enough power to move the total weight of car + 7 passengers + some cargo. So imagine if you make the car lighter: remove the 3rd row seats and put them in your living room as extra chairs. Remove the side-steps to save 30kg each left & right. Drive with just 1 passenger in the car next to you. You will help the engine a lot to move the car forward by reducing some weight... 4. Reduce inefficiencies between engine and wheels: Fluids Maintenance That 241hp rated engine is only at the FlyWheel (when the factory does the dyno with just the engine). So imagine your LC100 produces 241hp, then it goes to the Torque Converter, then to 4-speed Transmission/Gear Box, then to Transfer Case, then to Propeller Shafts, then to Differentials, then finally to Wheels. Along the way, it will never stay true to 241hp... you will lose some power along the way.... So to make it smoother from engine to wheels, you need to ensure all the fluids are lubricating the parts properly: Automatic Transmission Fluids, Transfer Case Gear Oil, Drive Shaft Grease, Diff Oil, and check no play in Axle Flange holding the axle to the wheel. Once you have done the above 4 points, let's test your LC100 again in Sweihan 😁
  12. The tally is actually 5 FBPlus drives with Y62 + 5 FBPlus drives with LC100... luckily @Carnity's wording didn't say "drive consistently with the same car for the past 6 months" 😂😂😂
  13. @Karthikeyan Govindarajan you missed the context bro: @ShereenMK was gonna sell his LC100 for a Jeep because of "not enough power" issue, see link below. You drive a modern LC200 4.0 with 6-speed transmission that has more power than LC100, so your LC doesn't count! 😅
  14. Cools the WaitList feature is working 😊 Dear @M.Seidam i've added myself for WL 2nd drive weekend...
  15. Bro @ShereenMK if you don't have other drives on this day, you can be my co-pilot... @Hasan Wahlan and I will be happy to show you how powerful the LC can be 😁
  16. I intentionally drive with the Intermediates in the "unofficial" trips to camouflage my actual level 😂
  17. I got it on the cheap 15K but already spent 15K doing mods to it 😂
  18. Actually i've kinda accepted it, I'm looking for a broken LC200 V8 5.7L that I can get cheap & fix to use as my next offroad carriage 😅 Once I get that, the LC100 will be kept in parking and Dubizzle until someone who appreciates classics will come for it 😁🙏🏻
  19. My friend sold this model as he was tired of fixing it. Buying old car means loving it and taking care of it, no old car is going to magically cure itself from sickness... @ShereenMK i am hurt you're going to get rid of the GCC Inline-6 LC100 for another older car 😄 Kidding aside, can I confirm that the reason you want to change car is because you feel "powerless" with the LC100? If so, here are my recommendations: 1. If you want this bad and become @Srikumar's disciple, make sure it's Manual. With a Mechanical Clutch and No Slushee Torque Converter, manual old cars are faster than automatic old cars. 2. Find a more modern engine (minimum 4.0L with 5-speed) at cheaper price points: these are X-Terras, LC200 4.0 or even 3.6L Jeeps. Can I test-drive your car next time? I've sent my V8 LC100 to garages numerous times that I can sense issues with similar LandCruisers just by driving it... who knows, it could be an overheated torque converter that a 2000dhs rebuild can fix 😁 (still cheaper than buying a 15,000dhs car)
  20. yes i think safer to deflate again after bead is seated to prevent the pressure from flying to someone's face 😂 the ratchet method is just to seat the bead, may need to remind this before experimenting 😁
  21. @Daniel Yang I thought you said you were driving 12psi? 😅 I don't know if you noticed, but we've got the exact configuration: Yoko Geolandar P285/70/R17 (Passenger-rated not Light-Truck) and Method 703 Bead Grip. And I've driving on 9-10psi on these since May 2021. So it kinda worried me you got a pop-out @ 12psi... now you're a bad example for Method 😂😂😂 The grooves on the 7xx rims are good when viewed upside-down like so 👇 The Grooves/Inner Ridges + Taller Bead Wall will give good traction when pushed down (hence can stand lower psi), but a pain in the $$$ to seat properly (when viewed up like your pic), cos the grooves will "leak air" unless the bead is pushed using the ratchet method (below video) or a proper tire machine or a powerful air compressor. @Gaurav i think @Lawrence_Chehimi was almost on the right approach with the ratchet, as shown in this video tip. This is the method that a friend from another club used and spoken also in the Polaris forums (where these Bead Grip rims are famous initially): Learning something new due to this unexpected pop-out 😁 https://youtu.be/MK0P5MF7ioI?t=145
  22. @Josh T. have some mercy for us at the back... be gentle on the throttle and don't churn up all the sand with your Mighty Sierra 6.2L V8 😅
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