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Confidence: Technique and Time, Not Mods!


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Some quick reflections on being reminded that deliberate technique is key to confidence…

Recently I changed my Jeep’s suspension setup from the Teraflex Falcon 3.3 system to King 2.5 shocks, tuned specifically for offroad driving.

Objectively the vehicle now handles better. The damping is firmer and more controlled, the Jeep feels more planted and precise, and the overall composure is improved. The vehicle also sits slightly taller.

What surprised me though was that my confidence in my offroad driving initially reduced…! 🤦🏻‍♂️

Not because the setup is worse…quite the opposite. But because the vehicle now reacts differently, particularly when crossing ridgelines and during side-sloping transitions. The roll, settling and weight transfer characteristics have changed enough that I have had to recalibrate what “normal” feels like.

It has been a good reminder that offroad driving is a continual learning process. Even experienced drivers can become subconsciously tuned to how their vehicle behaves, and when that behaviour changes, confidence takes time to rebuild.

More importantly, and the main thing I want to share, is that it reinforced that the fundamentals are what matter.

For example in Carnity we teach drivers to approach ridges at a deliberate angle, let the vehicle settle, then steer off the ridge smoothly while maintaining appropriate speed and momentum throughout the manoeuvre. 

Those techniques will always work, even when the car behaves differently from what I expected or I am used to  

The answer is not aggressive corrections or forcing confidence. It is to slow down mentally, trust the fundamentals, apply deliberate inputs, and allow yourself time to adapt to the vehicle’s new behaviour.

Capability modifications can improve the car, but confidence still comes from understanding, repetition and disciplined technique.

Still learning…

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Kings.... my expedition also wants kings.. 182a and 183a... 😁

 

Every car is a different beast, and ing the most Important part is changing the behavior of the whole vehicle. 

Thanks for taking the time to remind us of this 🤝

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Fantastic write-up @ChrisW and something i have been going through myself with the Trooper.

In the early days i had the car, it felt planted and behaved quite well in the sand, but since i moved from 33 to 32 inch tires, and installed a winch in the front, something started to feel off. The car would nose-dive and bounce a lot but i could not immediately find a root cause.

I started to experiment with a few different models of shocks. There are not so many options available but i think by now i've gone through 3 or 4 different models, even adjustable ones, and still could not get the predictability on ridges my Pajero used to have.

Now recently i've upgraded the torsion bars from OEM to Ironman Heavy Duty and finally i am getting back to a somewhat normal behavior. Now also Bilstein shocks entered the game (basic model) and the progressive dampening is helping the front to settle a bit.

I made a few mistakes from spending time on US forums about Isuzu Trooper, where the majority of these people set them up for crawling or overlanding, and choose very stiff shocks (KYB Monomax came as recommended). This did not work well for me.

Long story short, the way we are in tune with our vehicles is key, and whenever something changes we need to adjust our senses and listen to what the car is telling us. This might mean doing some lower level drives, or the exact opposite. Whatever works for you. 

I've been lucky to be able to drive and test different offroad vehicles over the years and they all feel different. 

In the club we always encourage people to learn by using their stock suspension, and i still stand by that statement, but the amount of vegetation has forced many of us to look for better shocks. Either this or visit the chiropractor every week :) 

 

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"Go as far as you can see; once you get there, you'll be able to see further."

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28 minutes ago, Frederic said:

Fantastic write-up @ChrisW and something i have been going through myself with the Trooper.

In the early days i had the car, it felt planted and behaved quite well in the sand, but since i moved from 33 to 32 inch tires, and installed a winch in the front, something started to feel off. The car would nose-dive and bounce a lot but i could not immediately find a root cause.

I started to experiment with a few different models of shocks. There are not so many options available but i think by now i've gone through 3 or 4 different models, even adjustable ones, and still could not get the predictability on ridges my Pajero used to have.

Now recently i've upgraded the torsion bars from OEM to Ironman Heavy Duty and finally i am getting back to a somewhat normal behavior. Now also Bilstein shocks entered the game (basic model) and the progressive dampening is helping the front to settle a bit.

I made a few mistakes from spending time on US forums about Isuzu Trooper, where the majority of these people set them up for crawling or overlanding, and choose very stiff shocks (KYB Monomax came as recommended). This did not work well for me.

Long story short, the way we are in tune with our vehicles is key, and whenever something changes we need to adjust our senses and listen to what the car is telling us. This might mean doing some lower level drives, or the exact opposite. Whatever works for you. 

I've been lucky to be able to drive and test different offroad vehicles over the years and they all feel different. 

In the club we always encourage people to learn by using their stock suspension, and it still stand by that statement, but the amount of vegetation has forced many of us to look for better shocks. Either this or visit the chiropractor every week :) 

 

extra weight in front of front axle = you should look at heavy duty SPRINGS.
you need to restore the front of the car to the unloaded 'factory' height position as rest. shocks will be nice for damping impacts, but the heavier duty springs will control the load and the bounce effect to bring it back to 'factory spec'.    Amazing how little weight change hanging over the front bumper will change characteristics.

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3 minutes ago, Luke K P said:

extra weight in front of front axle = you should look at heavy duty SPRINGS.

I had the same with changing the bumper 😄

Funny thing, once I installed roof rack, it little bit balanced bumper, and even last time on Big Red it was not that much nose diping! but still I want Kings 😆

maybe @ChrisW will recommend some shop for it )))large.20260510_082117.jpg.6e4d2667af8176880792d1221851b69d.jpg

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Posted (edited)

85f5185f-5780-4574-b8d3-98e895a8bdbd.jpeg.ad97808f78e055bc053f78f745f79964.jpeg

 

9c27b722-c37a-4abf-82b2-2513f39b69ec.jpeg.c234d0c652b17639fca75606e4e39624.jpeg

 

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@Zubail I went for the remote reservoir adjustable shocks. These were tuned initially by the garage (specific shims and valving setup inside the shock), and then you can use the red valve to choose how many clicks towards firm or soft you want. 
 

…also, a small edit to add…none of these mods are necessary for Carnity drives! The other part of this hobby I enjoy is messing around with the technology and mechanics…so this side of things is more for the sake of it than out of necessity. 

Edited by ChrisW
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44 minutes ago, Luke K P said:

extra weight in front of front axle = you should look at heavy duty SPRINGS.
you need to restore the front of the car to the unloaded 'factory' height position as rest. shocks will be nice for damping impacts, but the heavier duty springs will control the load and the bounce effect to bring it back to 'factory spec'.    Amazing how little weight change hanging over the front bumper will change characteristics.

Next time we meet you need to try to find springs on the front of my car buddy 😆 There is none....

image.png

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"Go as far as you can see; once you get there, you'll be able to see further."

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