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treks

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Everything posted by treks

  1. treks
    @Danny has hit nail right on the head. I would take both his and @hanifs advice seriously.
  2. treks
    I'm in two minds about this particular Mini version- on the one hand it looks like something Uncle Fred can use as live bait on his next fishing trip, and on the other hand it reminds me of a cross between a Z4 and a lawn mower. I do agree with you though; whatever it is, it is not a Mini.
  3. treks
    Hi Ghalib, Sandeep is right, if the engine warning light is on, there must be a fault code stored, and in your case, it could be any code between P0012 and P0025. These codes are related to valve timing, and there must be at least one of them present for the warning light to be on. Mazda CX models from 2008 (to about 2010 in some markets) are known for a problem with the timing chains that stretch due to a manufacturing defect. This problem causes issues with the valve timing, with the most common problem being valve timing that is over retarded, meaning that the position of the camshaft does not agree with the position of the crankshaft. It also causes the rattling noise you describe, because the chain is not being tensioned properly. This issue on Mazda CX engines is a serious one, and if you don’t get it fixed, the timing chain can break and destroy the engine. I would suggest you take the car to the dealer to have the problem checked out and repaired before the timing chain breaks. However, this is not a cheap repair, but it has to done if you don’t want to lose the engine.
  4. treks
    Hi AdamRay, @amitaj makes some good points, but with F-150 trucks of the 2011/2012 model years, the problem is more likely to involve the electric vacuum pump that supplies the brake system with vacuum assistance. Diesel engines, such as the one you have in your truck cannot supply vacuum assistance to the brakes in the same way that petrol engines do, with vacuum drawn from the inlet manifold. Diesel vehicles have separate vacuum pumps- some are driven from the engine, but these particuar models have electric pumps that have a known problem with water entering the pump, thus causing corrosion. The corrosion damages the pump, which results in poor vacuum assistance, which in turn causes long stopping distances because the brakes don't have sufficient vacuum assistance. The only fix for this problem is to replace the vacuum pump, but be sure to have the brake discs checked out for signs of overheating as well. The poor vacuum assistance can cause the brakes to overheat because the brake force generated is not enough to stop the vehicle, but because the brakes are used for longer than normal, the overall time that the brakes are clamped are longer than would have been the case had the brakes worked properly.
  5. treks
    What a pity that a once great culture has sunk so low. The Chinese were once the world's greatest astronomers, philosophers, and physicians, but these days it seems to be all about the money.
  6. treks
    @Technician makes a good point about JDM cars being awesome, but the problem is that many JDM cars don't comply with emission regulations and other standards in many markets, especially the USA. In the USA it is imposible to register some used JDM cars without first making extensive modifications to make them comply with the Clean Air Act, which modifications rob a JDM car of performance. Another problem is that the safety systems on JDM cars are programmed differently- Japanese roads are mostly twisting, whereas roads in the USA are mostly relatively straight, meaning that JDM safety systems might never reach the point where they would activate. Many of these issues apply to the UAE as well, but with the added problem that JDM cars are mostly incapable of handling the heat (Pajero's are good examples) unless their cooling systems are upgraded. I am sure Technician is aware of the potential problems involved with upgrading cooling systems, so to my mind, the climate in the UAE is the main reason why no, or very few used JDM cars are seen in the UAE.
  7. treks
    Unless Mazda can get the apex seals sorted, this new version won't last any longer than the first rotaries did- which is sad, since rotary engines have a lot going for them.
  8. treks
    What P0170 Code Means, And How To Fix It With knowledge comes the power to tell when a mechanic tries to rip us off, so with these posts, I am hoping to provide Carnity members with some basic knowledge of a particular fault code to help them understand what caused a particular generic OBD II code to be set, and how the system(s)/component(s) that relate to the code work. https://carnity.com/topic/9801-how-to-scan-trouble-codes/ Definition of P0170 code - Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1) Code P0170 is defined as “Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1)”, with “Bank 1” referring to the side of the engine that contains cylinder #1 on engines that have two cylinder heads. Codes that are related to fuel trim issues are rare on American and Korean cars, but common on imported European cars. Cars most affected are turbocharged petrol models in the Mercedes-Benz, Audi, BMW, and Volkswagen ranges. What sets PO170 code This code is set when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) cannot control or regulate the air/fuel mixture when required, or when it gets a request to adjust the fuel trim from post-catalytic converter oxygen sensors that exceeds its ability to adjust the fuel trim. Negative fuel trim means that the PCM is attempting to lean out the air/fuel mixture, and positive fuel trim means that the PCM is attempting enrich the air/fuel mixture. Symptoms of PO170 code Symptoms of code P0170 vary widely between applications, and sometimes the only indication of a problem is the presence of a stored code, and an illuminated CHECK ENGINE light. Other possible symptoms could include- · Poor acceleration or power loss · Hesitation at start up · Misfiring at start up · Hesitation and/or misfiring upon acceleration · Visible black smoke from the tail pipe upon acceleration and /or start up · Increased fuel consumption Note that some symptoms, such as over fuelling (rich running) can damage the catalytic converter(s) if the fault is not fixed. Causes of PO170 code The most common cause of code P0107 is oil leaking past turbocharger seals, which leads to fouling of the mass air flow meter element. Other possible causes include- · Excessive oil in the inlet tract that causes short circuits in the mass airflow meter connector. · Cracked, split, or dislodged intake air ducting that allows unmetered air to enter the engine. · Oil-fouled oxygen sensors on turbocharged engines. · Poor quality, or mismatched after market mass airflow sensors. · Excessive fuel pressure caused by a defective fuel pressure regulator. · Low fuel pressure caused by defective a fuel pump or defective fuel pressure regulator. · Clogged, or dirty fuel filter. · Vacuum system leaks, allowing unmetered air to enter the engine. (Note that it is important to be sure that there are no vacuum leaks on the engine. It often happens that perfectly good MAF sensors and other components are replaced when the real problem was a vacuum leak.) · Damaged catalytic converters that fail to clean up the exhaust stream. · PCM failure is not altogether impossible, but this happens very rarely. Basic troubleshooting steps for code P0170 NOTE #1: Diagnosing code P0107 requires that the engine be in perfect running condition. Any other codes present, and especially codes relating to crankshaft and camshaft position sensors, misfire, vacuum, catalytic converter, or fuel pressure related issues must be resolved before starting to diagnose code P0170. NOTE #2: To diagnose code P0170, and assuming that there are no other codes present, you will need a repair manual, a code reader that can monitor live data streams, and a digital multi-meter. While it is possible to perform this diagnosis and repair on a DIY basis, it is recommended that the diagnosis and repair be performed by a competent mechanic. If you choose to do the repair yourself, proceed as follows- NOTE #3: It is important to retest the system after each step in the repair procedure. It saves a lot of time, and it prevents the duplication of tests. STEP 1 Record all stored fault codes and available freeze frame data for future reference. This may help you identify the cause(s) of possible intermittent faults later on. At this point, you need to determine if you have negative, or positive fuel trim condition, to save you time later on. Most code readers will indicate this. Step 2 Since the most common cause of this code relates to the mass airflow meter, remove the meter from the inlet tract and inspect it for the presence of oil on the heated element wire. If oil is present, use an approved cleaner to remove the oil. Be sure to use only an approved cleaning agent to clean the element, since some cleaners will remove the special coating on some MAF sensor elements, rendering the MAF sensor useless. NOTE #1: There is little point in replacing, or reinstalling the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) if there is excessive oil in the inlet tract. Most turbocharged engines have a light oily residue in the inlet tract, and this is normal, but liquid oil in the tract means there is a serious problem somewhere. The source of the excess oil must be found and the problem should be corrected before continuing the diagnostic/repair process. NOTE #2: Excessive oil in the inlet tract will almost certainly have damaged the oxygen sensors and catalytic converter, which means that the code will persist even after replacing the MAF sensor with an OEM part. These components must be checked/tested for functionality before proceeding with diagnosing/repairing code P0107. Refer to the manual for the correct testing procedures for oxygen sensors. Step 3 If there is no excess oil in the inlet tract, and you have cleaned the MAF sensor element, refit the MAF sensor, but before you retest the system, perform a visual inspection of all wiring, and connectors in the circuit. Refer to the manual to determine the location, function, and color-coding of each wire. Look for damaged, burnt, or short circuited wiring, as well as damaged, or corroded connectors. Repair or replace wiring and/or connectors as required. Step 4 If the wiring checks out OK, or if you have replaced or repaired wiring/connectors, you need to perform reference voltage, continuity, ground, and resistance checks on the control circuit wiring. Consult the manual on the exact values. It is important to follow the instructions in the manual exactly, and bear in mind that obtained readings must either match stated values exactly, or fall within the specified range. However, make absolutely certain that you disconnect the system from the PCM before performing continuity checks to avoid damaging the PCM or other related controllers. These checks will pinpoint electrical issues in the control circuit wiring that may not have been visible. Repair, or replace wiring as required. Recheck the system after repairs to confirm that all values conform to the manufacturer’s specifications. Step 5 If the wiring checks out OK, you need to test the MAF sensor. To do this, connect the code reader to the system, and start the engine, but set up the code reader in such a manner that only the live data from the MAF sensor is displayed. This gives more accurate data, but it also removes distractions that could be confusing. To interpret the data obtained, you need to consult the manual to get minimum and maximum signal voltages for the application being worked on. As air passes through the MAF sensor, the airflow generates an electric current, which the PCM uses to calculate a suitable timing and fuel delivery strategy. Therefore, as the RPM’s change, the signal voltage generated by the MAF sensor should change as well. Some code readers will present this information in the form of a graph, which is easy to interpret. One axis of the graph will represent the engine speed, and another axis will represent the signal voltage. To test the MAF sensor, have an assistant operate the throttle to change the engine speed - this will reflect as a changing voltage on the code reader display. Step 6 However, the obtained voltage readings relative to the engine speed must match the values stated in the manual exactly; if they do not, the MAF sensor is likely defective, but do not assume it is. Test the oxygen sensors for functionality, and only replace the MAF sensor if the oxygen sensors are proven to be in good working order. Consult the manual on how to test the oxygen sensors. Replace any oxygen sensors that do not comply with the manufacturer’s specification, and retest the MAF sensor. Step 7 If the wiring, oxygen sensors, and catalytic converter(s) are good, but the code persists, replace the MAF sensor with an OEM part, but only if you are absolutely certain that there are no vacuum leaks present. After market MAF sensors are often the cause of code P0170 and related codes, so avoid using aftermarket components where possible. Step 8 Test drive the vehicle with the scanner connected to be able to monitor the performance of the MAF sensor. At this point it is unlikely that the code will return, but if it does return, it is possible that there is an intermittent fault present. Some intermittent faults can be extremely challenging to trace and resolve, and you may have to a allow the fault to worsen before an accurate diagnosis and definitive repair can be made. Codes related to P0170 · P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1) · P0172 - System Too Rich (Bank 1) Disclaimer WHILE ALL INFORMATION IN THIS POST IS ACCURATE, IT IS INTENDED FOR GENERAL INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. I DO NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR DAMAGES OF ANY KIND ARISING OUT OF THE USE, OR INCORRECT AND/OR IMPROPER USE OF THIS INFORMATION. ALWAYS CHECK WITH YOUR MECHANIC OR THE MANUFACTURER/DEALER OF YOUR VEHICLE BEFORE ATTEMPTING A REPAIR BASED ON THIS INFORMATION.
  9. treks
    @nutbolt, you are spot on about a lot of things in your post, but a forum can get as nasty as any club in a split second. I belong to an international offroad driving forum, and the politics there is sometimes terrible to behold- which is why I have not contributed to that forum during the past year or so. Carnity is as you say, a forum in the true sense of the word. I have yet to see a nasty post or a snarky comment, which is like a breath of fresh air in the world of forums.
  10. treks
    As did the Alfa-Romeo's of the same vintage!
  11. treks
    The Opel Ascona was released as such in Southern Africa. Perhaps they don't have many Spanish speaking people there.
  12. treks
    In my considered opinion, nothing made in China is worth considering. If I were in the market for a new car now, I would definitely pass the Geely by.
  13. treks
    @Ak, the prolem is not so much overheating if the thermostat is removed, as it is about the fact that without a thermostat, the engine does not get hot enough. @Tecnician explained what happens when a thermostat is removed in a thread in this post. Your engine may not overheat anymore, but you could destroy it because of increased mechanical wear.
  14. treks

    Car memes

    treks replied to Barry's topic in General Discussions

    I like the "Russians Be Like" meme. It reminds me of some of the taxis I have seen on my trips trough Africa...
  15. treks
    @Technician, I could not have said it better myself...
  16. treks
    Much depends on the energizing medium in a laser, so I guess in this case, the medium would be some sort of crystal, rather than a gas, so the light beam is not energetic enough to melt the car's metal. Speaking of lasers as propulsion systems- some gas lasers are powerful enough to move pieces of space debris into other orbits. In one famous experiment about 15 years ago, a laser was pointed (from earth) at a piece of burnt-out rocket engine in orbit around earth, and after 48 hours, the orbit of the piece of space junk was changed by several km- enough to prevent it ever falling back onto the earth. So yes, with some fine tuning, we might see laser engines in cars yet.
  17. treks
    1000 Watts? I use a 20 milli-watt green laser as a pointer when I present astronomy lectures, and with that laser, I can burst a party balloon at 6 meters in less than a second, and light a cigarette in under 7 seconds at a distance of 1 meter. I have also accidentally sustained serious burns with it. Just imagine what this 1kW monster could do to the thin metal of a car body! Less powerful gas lasers are used to cut thick steel plate, but this particular laser should work well to clean gunk off ships and such though.
  18. treks
    Hi Luqman, @ethan is right, and Pajeros can, and do overheat very easily. Along with the viscous fan, I would also have the thermostat replaced, but only with an OEM part. You may also want to fit a thermostat that opens a little sooner than the standard unit- just ask the salesman at the dealer to check the opening and closing temperatures of the thermostats that fit your model, and take the one that opens at the lowest temperature. What ever you do though, NEVER fit a non-OEM thermostat on a Pajero.
  19. treks
    With knowledge comes the power to tell when a mechanic tries to rip us off, so with these posts, I am hoping to provide Carnity members with some basic knowledge of a particular fault code to help them understand what caused a particular generic OBD II code to be set, and how the system(s)/component(s) that relate to the code work. https://carnity.com/topic/9801-how-to-scan-trouble-codes/ Definition of Generic Trouble Code P0087: "Fuel Rail/System Pressure Is Too Low" What sets code P0087 This code is set when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) receives a signal that the pressure in the fuel rail/system is lower than what is required for the engine to start, or to run properly. The required fuel pressure varies from vehicle to vehicle, but in all cases, the fuel pressure can vary between pre-defined upper and lower limits. Thus, when the PCM detects that the fuel pressure does not fall within the specified range, code P0087 will be set. Symptoms of code P0087 Typical symptoms include: · Illuminated CHECK ENGINE, or SERVICE ENGINE SOON warning light. · Stored trouble code. · Vehicle may not start. · Engine may be hard to start, with long cranking periods before it starts. · If the engine starts, there may be some hesitation on acceleration. Note that misfire-related codes may be present in these cases. · Loss of power if the engine starts. Note that in these cases, there may be other codes present along with P0087. Causes of code P0087 Typical causes include the following, although not all may be present on all vehicles. · Low fuel level in the tank. · Defective fuel pump/fuel pump relay. · Clogged, or dirty fuel filter. · Defective fuel pressure regulator, preventing the fuel system from achieving/maintaining the required fuel pressure. · Defective fuel pressure sensor. · Short circuits in associated wiring. · Open circuits in associated wiring due to damage to wiring. · Loss of ground in the wiring circuit. · Corroded electrical connectors, causing bad contacts/connections. · Defective OEM, or aftermarket security/anti-theft/immobilising devices that could prevent the fuel pump from starting. In these cases, there may, or may not be an illuminated CHECK ENGINE light present, or there may be other, vehicle-specific codes present along with P0087. Basic troubleshooting steps for code P0087 NOTE: When diagnosing code P0087, it is important to be sure that the fuel gauge is working properly. Many expensive fuel pumps, relays, and even PCM’s have been replaced when the vehicle simply has run out of fuel. Also, be sure to make sure that there are no leaks in the fuel system that could affect fuel pressure. Typically, when a mechanic investigates code P0087, he will start by doing an inspection of the relevant circuits to eliminate damaged/corroded/short circuited wiring, which he will repair before doing anything else. The next step will then typically be to- Step 1 Record all freeze-frame data and stored codes with a scanning tool, which is a sort of “snapshot” of what happened when the fault code was set. This is an important step since it may indicate an intermittent fault, which can sometimes be very difficult to find and repair. Step 2 Clear the code, and test the fuel system to see if the code has returned. Step 3 If the code is still present, the mechanic’s next step will be to check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail (using a dedicated fuel pressure gauge), which he will compare with the specified value for the vehicle. At this point, the mechanic will also check for the correct system voltage at the fuel pump. If the system voltage is not within specification, or absent, the mechanic will check/replace the fuel pump relay, or repair damaged wiring found during this stage of the procedure. In some cases, the battery may have to be replaced if it is defective. NOTE: Low battery voltages can cause some fuel pumps not to start. Step 4 If there is enough fuel in the tank, the system voltage is within specification, and the fuel pump is found to be working properly, the mechanic will check/replace the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator before clearing the code, and retesting the system to see if the code has returned. Step 5 If the code is still present, or the vehicle will still not start although the fuel pressure is within specification, the mechanic will test the fuel injector circuit to check for open, short circuited, or corroded wiring. NOTE: In some cases, a vehicle can show all the symptoms of code P0087 a code relating to the fuel injectors/fuel injector circuit being present. However, this depends on the capabilities of the code reader (and its software) more than anything else does, since some cheap, or generic code readers / scanners often fail to extract some fault codes. Step 6 If the injector circuit is OK, and the fuel pump is working, the mechanic will check the operation of the fuel pressure sensor. This check will involve checking the reference voltage (power supply) at the sensor, which is usually 5 volts for most applications. The check will also involve checking the sensor’s resistance using a special chart, called a pressure to Hertz chart. Note that it is almost impossible to diagnose a faulty sensor without this chart. The mechanic will replace the fuel pressure sensor if its resistance readings do not fall within specifications. NOTE: This sensor converts fuel pressure into a signal voltage, which the PCM interprets as fuel pressure, which in turn is used to calculate fuel delivery (injector pulse width), and to adapt the ignition timing (among other parameters) to ensure that the engine operates efficiently. Step 7 If the fuel pressure sensor checks out OK, the mechanic will perform continuity/resistance/ ground checks on the wiring between the fuel pressure sensor and the PCM, making sure that the PCM is disconnected before doing so. Not disconnecting the PCM can damage it during continuity checks. If any faults are found, the mechanic will fix them at this point. NOTE: If there is no problem with continuity or the ground, the PCM is likely to be defective, but PCM failures do not happen often, so the fault must be sought elsewhere before the PCM is replaced. Step 8 At this point, the vehicle should start, so the mechanic will clear all fault codes, and test the vehicle with a scanner connected to see if the code returns. This can happen if there is an intermittent fault in the wiring, so the mechanic may have to replace the affected wiring harness to ensure a reliable repair. Codes related to P0087 P0088 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too High. Disclaimer WHILE ALL INFORMATION IN THIS POST IS ACCURATE, IT IS INTENDED FOR GENERAL INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. I DO NOT ACCEPT ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR DAMAGES OF ANY KIND ARISING OUT OF THE USE, OR INCORRECT AND / OR IMPROPER USE OF THIS INFORMATION. ALWAYS CHECK WITH YOUR MECHANIC OR THE MANUFACTURER / DEALER OF YOUR VEHICLE BEFORE ATTEMPTING A REPAIR BASED ON THIS INFORMATION.
  20. treks
    Lately, there has been some talk about OBD II fault codes on the forum, which is why I have decided to post a series of posts in the Car Maintenance section on what some commonly occurring generic OBD II fault codes mean, what causes them, and what needs to be done to fix them. We all know that it is sometimes difficult to perform our own repairs here in the UAE, which often forces us to rely on the word of (often inexperienced) mechanics when they say that this, or that, or the next thing is wrong with our cars. It often happens that mechanics present customers with a list of fault codes extracted from a customer’s car that in the opinion of the mechanic, “Will be very difficult, and therefore very expensive to repair.” However, in many cases, fault codes are the result of relatively simple and easy-to-fix causes, but how do you know this to be the case if you don’t have a code reader, and have to trust that what the mechanic says? With knowledge comes the power to tell when a mechanic tries to rip us off, so with these posts, I am hoping to provide Carnity members with some basic knowledge of a particular fault code to help them understand what caused a particular generic OBD II code to be set, and how the system(s)/component(s) that relate to the code work. More importantly though, these posts are designed to provide some basic knowledge of the diagnostic and repair procedure(s) followed by mechanics to resolve the issue, and my hope is that this knowledge will prevent Carnity members from being ripped off by dishonest/inexperienced mechanics and garages. Of course, it must be said not all mechanics are dishonest, and some codes are indeed very difficult and expensive to repair, but having some real knowledge of what a trouble code means will hopefully enable Carnity members to avoid getting ripped off by mechanics who are out to make a quick buck, or in this case, a quick Dirham. Members are welcome to suggest a particular generic code they may be having trouble with, or have difficulty with in diagnosing and repairing. The first post will be in the Car Maintanance section later today.
  21. treks
    @Technician You are correct of course, but I would not advise this method unless you are an expert in interpreting the flashes. A code reader or scanner is far more reliable, and with using one, the avarage DIY mechanic has no chance of acidentally jumping or bridging the wrong pins.
  22. treks
    @Saleem True, but no matter where you read the code from, it still needs to be resolved, and that is often easier said than done! Scanners, no matter how advanced, hardly ever pinpoint a particular part or component, instead, they mostly just point a mechanic in the direction of the area in which the fault occured and in most instances, the root cause can be any one, or a combination of several possible failures or malfunctions.
  23. treks
    Flushing an engine is not a bad thing in itself, but it should not be required on a 2015 model. If any sludge is found at this point, the better option would be to find and correct the cause, instead of relying on flushing agents to prevent continued sludge formation. The biggest problem with flushing agents is the fact that you can't get all of it out of an engine after an engine flush and oil change. The remaining flush may help to help keep the engine clean, but it also dilutes the fresh oil. I would only ever use a flushing agent if there is actual sludge present, and then change the oil twice to make sure all the gunk gets removed. A great way to prevent sludge is to use a fully synthetic oil, since it does not oxidize as easilly as regular mineral oil. It may be more expensive, but it lasts nearly twice as long, and you get almost double the lubricity of mineral oil.
  24. treks
    @Technician I fully agree with you that people have the right to fix their own cars. That was never in dispute, but personal experience has taught that illegal copies of diagnostic software are often corrupted, and in one case (there are others, but I fixed this one) the user of an illegal copy wiped the operating system from his BMW when he tried to clear a code. I also applaud you for once being hired by MB without formal training, but here is the thing- Google is no substitute for formal training, and growing with new technologies over decades. Moreover, forums are more often than not, fraught with wrong diagnoses, speculation, guesswork, and the opinions of people who, apart from their own problem(s) with their own vehicle(s), have for the most part, no clue about what a reliable repair entails. An opinion is one thing, and everyone is entitled to one, but the owner of a repair shop, such as myself, can never rely on Google and Internet forums for information on how to perform repairs on a customer's vehicle. When a customer presents me with a problem on his vehicle, he relies on my training, knowledge and skill as a mechanic to resolve the problem, not my skills in internet research to find a solution that may, or may not work. The customer pays me, the owner of the shop, to resolve the issue, and comebacks are for my account, not the mechanic's account to whom I had assigned the job. Being self-taught is a great thing, but a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. You may know your way around an OBD system, but to suggest that all the average car owner needs to fix a/his car is a laptop and a ripped copy of some diagnostic software, is disingenious to say the least. You, as Technician, may know that a generic fault can trigger one or more vehicle-specific codes, and how to resolve the root cause of a code, but to seriously suggest that the average car owner in the UAE, or anywhere else for that matter, only needs a laptop and a ripped copy of software in order to decode the freeze frame data or code setting parameters where this has happened might create opportunities for DIY mechanics to make expensive mistakes. One example- an emission control -related code could be the result of using the wrong engine oil, and there may be nothing wrong with any component, circuits, or control modules. If you knew nothing about lubrication technology, would you be able to trace the cause of a damaged catalytic converter to unsuitable oil? If you didn't know that the molecules in synthetic oil are all the same size, and that the oil therefore provides better lubrication, would you be able to ascribe the code to excessive mechanical wear because the owner tried to save some money by using mineral oil, or would you try to find the cause elsewhere? Another example is the analysis of wave forms in ignition, and/or charging systems. You and I may know the difference between the electrical waveforms generated by two-, and three-wire Crank Position Sensors, or how long it should take a sine wave to decay in a defective alternator, but do you seriously expect the avarage DIY mechanic to know this? I also agree with you that we all have to start somewhere, but the cars we worked on in the early 1990's are as far removed from today's cars as a kite is removed from the Space Shuttle. The cars of 20 years ago simply did not have the miles of wiring, several hundred fuses, dozens of relays/control modules, or the thousands of electrical connections we see in modern cars. You cannot seriously expect a DIY mechanic to find a high resistance, out-of-spec reference voltage, loss of ground, or an open circuit in a modern German SUV with just a laptop and an almost-certainly outdated version of a diagnostic program in such a vehicle. At best, he may be able to extract a code or two, but without a wiring diagram, pressure to Hertz charts, or an oscilloscope (and the ability to interpret the data), the avarage DIY mechanic has no chance to find the cause of any problem, and even less so if the problem involves captive technology or diagnostic/repair information that is not available to the repair industry outside of the dealer network. In conclusion, I must say that a "professional" mechanic who relies on Google to find solutions to problems on internet forums should not be allowed to work as a mechanic. Period.
  25. treks
    "But to answer your original question, American or German? Japanese every time." Well, yes- if you want a leakproof engine, then Japanese is the way to go, no doubt about it.
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