desertdude

Toyota = overpriced

I think weve already had this conversation about heaters here. Mostly disconnected when heater core is clogged or keaking. Not worth the money to rip out the dash to fix it in these climates for something you might need once a year for 5 mins. But if its workig fine then no need to bypass it. And rightly pointed out it has nothing to do with AC cooling and a quick cooler for an overheating car. I remeber I had to use the heater on full trickvon my friends overheating maxima while coming back from Al Ain. It worked long enough fir us to reach our shop in sharjah. But was no fun to drive in mid summer in the heat with the heater on full blast. It was a race against time to see which would faint first the car or us!!!!

unfortunatey cant fix that NATO style hook on most cars. As thats bolted on to the rear crash bar mounted directed to the frame. Put that on todays plastic pigs and see the entire rear end fly off! LOL

Yeah that makes perfect sense to get a cheap weekend toy so even if it explodes its not a great loss. I will even throw a Land Cruiser or Pathfinder of similar age into the mix. But as you say you know of a private deal going on for VTC 4.8 then go for it. After a basic check to see everything is in good working order, you can pretty much take it even for extreme desert bashing in stock form, without having to risk losing bumpers and what not.

P.S : Hate to break it to you buy your 10 year old Pajero is not new or expensive anymore. You can get them between 25-30k now

Pajero or no pajero just drive it in D unless real sticky situation. And no unfortunately even jero owners will not side with your statement

He's a deadly menace to every road user. No one cares how manycars he destroys, but the day he smashes into soneone because of this.......... I have to say I'm with Barry on this one. Its already hard trying to avoid people trying to ram into you with another idiot asleep at the wheel!

Thats caled the 5th generation Y61 Patro. Well taken care of Ive seen them cross 500k even. Yes you are right scrapyards are full of patrol bits, specially in dhaid. If the car checks out, engine tranny, drive train is solid, then go for it, specially if you can get it for around 10k it wouldnt be a bad deal as the 4500 with 350k plus mileage go for around 15 ish. As for transmission just leave it in D, seems like you have no offroad experience would be recommended to sign up for a newbie drive here to learn the basics

Thats because the swb and 2001 are the 4500. 4800 VTC is a totally different monster plus yours had the absolute shit ratio manual transmission. The engine wasnt as big of a let down as tge manual transmission ratios were. 1st too short and 2nd too long. Could never get it into the right power and torque band required for high climbs

Personally I hate the way they look, and totally associated with ricers as they seem to be the only one who ge them. 1996 civic with neon under body lights cambered wheels and wing bigger than that of a double decker airbus A380 on the trunk lid, cheap rattle can sprayed wavy and ill fitting groundeffect kit.

Look only for the VTC 4800 model. Which only comes in a LWB configurations for those early years. The 4500 is like a church mouse in front of the VTC and avoid manual like the plague. Horrible box for offroading in the desert. Youll have to look very carefully as its a favourite car among the shabab and usually played around with quite a bit on and offroad. look for bone stock versions with 0 mods. straight body panels and no repaints, underneath look for bent axel tubes, chains around the drive shaft and petrol tanks and caved in petrol tanks. All signs of a pervious life spent offroading. Diff lock really isnt a requirementIts nice to have but not a must

Jeez louise! He should be banned from driving alone ! He's lucky he's still alive!!! Really If I knew I had such a severe problem I would not drive in such situations! This happened to one of our Safari Colleges. ended up dead, killing 5 others and one in a severe coma. Fell asleep on the the wheel and rammed dead straight into a signpost at at ;east 120kph. Made the local news.

Nah bruv thats not the one. I remeber those well, almost every taxi you sat in in the 80s and early 90s had one.Had a thick plasrick cord you wrapped around the steering wheel. This is proper leather with only inseam stiching I did see them being sold on ebay a few years back

If your cooling system is working correctly it shouldnt make any difference. Peak hot hours in a traffic jam ambient temperature is attrcious all over, heat coming from all around including the tarmac. Check your aux fans, main fan, gas levels, evaporator in the dash, valve and everything is A OK then it only means your compressor is tired. Next time check while stationary but reving up the engine for a10 seconds does it get cooer or not

Problem is there is no one size fits all here. There are so many things that can create a "tok" Noises are always hard to trace and rectify Onr can only inspect and then go down a list and tick them off one by one. Having a Land Cruiser used 365 days for safaris it became a never ending quest to chase weird click, clongs, rattle, squeaks and clangs. How do you think I became a DIY mechanic and git knowlegable abiut cars because every day off or any freetime was either spent under the car or in a garage.

Go to a decent upholstery shop and get a leather cover made and sticthed, should cost about a couple of 100dhs. Make sure shop works with actual leather and not pleather otherwise known as ragzine locally.

There is no shortage of stupid people in this world, I know people who think their stuff is worth its weight in gold when selling and others stuff worth less than garbage when buying. I know people who have refused to sell a junker for which there are no customers for less than 500dhs from asking price only to sell it for a few 1000 less 3 to 6 months later. These are unrealistic sellers and Dubizzle is a just a very rough guide. Hardly anyone sells at listed price. And therr are also plenty of types I mentioned earler. Just yesterday I saw this guy post a 97 NAS spec Defender 90 for 250,000k ! Yes they are getting rare but not worth more than 80-100k

How bout you write it down anyways for future reference

Problem is majority of people take 0 intrest in thier cars and how they work, even so called petrol heads, what are the common issues with it and common ways to solve them. 30 mins on the net can save them 1000s but they just refuse to. There are entire workshop manuals available to download and most major and popular cars have dedicated forums with a lot expertise on them. Most recent example I just mentioned, the car my friend had just bought. It was a Honda having never really owned one besides my first 91 civic I have no clue about them. But an hour with google told me its most likely either the main relays or cam sensor. Since relays were cheaper and easy to deal with we tried that first 25dhs worth of relays but no luck. But worth the shot anyways. Then most likely culprit was said to be the cam sensor hidden behind the timing belt cover. So a 80dhs sensor and 40mins of elbow grease to loosen then valve cover so the timing cover can cone out and then back again and now car is running perfectly. Now if I would have acted like idiot avg joe car owner and gone to some grease monkey I know I would have ended up with a new fuel pump, coils, plugs etc etc and car still stalling out after warming up. Similarly my old range rover AC comp clutch wasnt engaging. AC gas was fine and AC clutch was also fine, just not getting the signal to energize. Since Im not very good with the electric side of things I went to this hot shot electrician in Rashidiya who works on porsches, ranges etc etc. He looked and said I will have to leave the car for a week thry will have to remove the dash and fuck all what not. But I could tell sonething was not right in funky town. I excused myself reluctantly opened up the electronic trouble shooting side of the workshop manual and got reading. The P38 has a ridiculously complicated AC setup. So after a day of reading and looking at wiring diagrams I narrowed it down to sonething called the tertiary pressure sensors with only two wires located behind the drivers side fog light. So I got down underneat, unplugged it. And shorted the plug with a paper clip wrapped it all nicely with electrical tape behind the bumper and lo and behold conpressor kicked back into action. And added advantage was the condesor auxliary fans would cycle on and off with the AC clutch which made the AC even more cooler and this lasted me years until I sold the car. So a days worth of reading and 10 fils paperclip saved me potential 1000s

A friends Brother In Law has the same problem and he has ended up in the central divider a couple of times while carryiing 3 work mates. Luckly gotten away with only scrapes to the bumper and door and he takes it so lightly as if its no big deal. Thats why this sleeping thing annoys me so much. Some while back he also started this sunflower seed thing.Now his car looks like an uttter pig sty all the time. Dunn how much it helps thiugh

Not Ayub Nobodys perfect and sometimes an issue is so niggly you just have to go down a list of troubleshooting. Starting with the cheapest and eaiset first and working ones way down.

I hear you man, seen such things. But here like you said the door swings both ways. Customer wat dealer level repairs and want to pay fuck all for it and then there are places that charge dealer level prices and their work is fuck all. Its a vicious circle. Some lucky folk have found a good mechanic who charges reasonably. And once found they never let ago. A prime example is a good friend of mine who I know for 20 plus years he works out part time in thr evenings out if his bosses shed His policy is he will beat any outside garage prices abd guarantees his work. And till date Ive not seen a customer leave him unless he wanted to get rid if a customer. Ive seen people literally force their cars on him. Even when he insists hes super busy and it will be weeks before he can even look at his car. Saying they dont care fix it when ever you get the time.

They are called struts or coilovers. Short for coilsprings over shocks. That rod is the shockabsorber itself. And the built in bushings in those can go bad. If you rear bushings were bad and living in a speed bump infested area they should also be worn out Specially since the front end bears most of the brunt when you brake and go over uneven terrain. And being a mitsu parts are going to be expensive

Agreed now its more of a chore and hassle. Ive been thinking of selling mine for over a year now but the thought if selling and then looking for a another one makes me cringe. I just went through this cycle myself for a friend. And finally after a month of looking we closed the deal this thursaday Now its the post purchase fix up tune up stage. Already spent entire afternoon yesterday working on it in my driveway. As it had a m main relay and cam sensor issue causing it to shut down every 5 minutes. Which was good for us as we got it at 40% below market value. But a 80 dhs sensor and 25 dhs worth of relays and 1hr of elbow grease we got it fixed and its running fine now.

What "rod" are you talking about? Tie rods And turning the steering causes this noise could be the steering rack bushes have gone or the steering rack itself.