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umarcrespo333

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Posts posted by umarcrespo333

  1. Hello gearheads,

    So I had gone to my country for sometime and left this matter in the hands of a friend of my father. So he got it fixed, although what was damaged could not be clarified because the guy has less knowledge about cars. Although he says, the issue was the torsion bars being torqued down too low (yes i decreased the ride height upfront) which caused the weight of the engine to be put down on the shocks and springs. I find this very hard to believe. Confirm it guys?

    Thanks.

    • Like (+1) 1
  2. Here is the update. Did not drive the car to find out where the sound is coming from but I inspected it some more. I saw rear lsd oil leak (did not see it before so it is new) and inspected the cv joints better to find out yellowish type of paste splattered all over the inside fender. There is some of that stuff splattered on the inner cv joint aswell and there is some oil or shiny fluid under the belts of the ac compressor and engine.

    10 hours ago, desertdude said:

    Death Wobble. Usually starts when you hit a bump or uneven patch, but not always. Look it up, common for solid axel 4x4s Something in your steering linkage is knackered, could be a bush or a ball joint or both.

    I don't think it is death wobble cuz the car is driveable (I dont know till when) and the vibration is a lot less intense.

    • Like (+1) 1
  3. 16 minutes ago, Barry said:

    Clicking sound could be cv joint or diff. I would look at the cv joint first. Is the sound coming from the front or back? Center or side? If you drive in a circle with the steering on full lock can you hear a click?

    Kind of hard to determine wether it is the front or the back but I think it is the cv. I will check next time the car is driven.

  4. So I didn't want to type this like a complete idiot so I took my time and did some research to what could be the problem.

    So basically, months ago the car used to vibrate around a 100kph and only on throttle but it was ignored as the vibration was not huge. Someone could have easily blamed it on the tires. But just recently the car started behaving this way. It would go bananas at 40kph all the way to 120kph. So I browsed around the internet and read somewhere that too much torque to one wheel and as I had posted earlier that in a burnout only one wheel would spin so I had every reason at blaming the lsd. But then I also read about cv joint going bad and remembered that i had seen some yellowish fluid around the inside of the wheels. And on recent inspection one of the cv joints was shiny (like oil splattered shiny) and the other dusty. So now I am hanging between diff and cv joint.

    I want you to help me by asking questions based on the problem so that I can narrow it down to the culprit so i don't burn money and end up nowhere with the problem.

    • Like (+1) 1
  5. On 07/09/2017 at 1:06 AM, desertdude said:

    The LC100seies does just fine without spacers even with a lift, leave it alone. Take it from a guy who earned his livelihood bashing it in the desert from the time when you were still in your diapers ;) 

    Hahaha real funny. But still, what about looks? I'm thinking of widening the car.

  6. On 07/09/2017 at 9:11 PM, desertdude said:

    There are many other factors too, other than just compression. You could have a stretched timing chains and/or worn sprockets. Worn cam lobes. All messing with the timing and making it lose power. 

    But I agree with the spark plug bit. I hat the bosch four prong titaniums in my 2000 manual LC and it went places others struggled and who ever drove it would always ask me if I have done any mods like headers or exhaust on the cruiser

    Hehe, just by spark plugs? :D nice.

  7. Hello,

    I wanna discuss brute force. Not increasing, but restoring. I have browsed around the internet and had a hard time finding the right stuff. So, I am making this thread only to make it easier for people to know what they want. 

    So, a lot of time while getting a used car, you get this feeling including me, that the car is not making the same power as the factory papers boast. Some dyno results will prove that there are lots of horses escaped through the lifespan of the car. Question is, no capital or time spared, how do you get them back?

    I want to bring this to the carnity pros' attention to go ham on this one and i am adding my suggestion as well.

    1. Replace or fix everything under the hood and the fenders. :D (if like me you treasure your car)

    2.Buy a new car.

    Feel free to add your comments.

  8. 1 hour ago, Barry said:

    You can build it up with expanding foam then shave it off to the shape you want then cover it with sheets of fiberglass. It's easy but time consuming. If you make a mess you can pick the foam off and start again. 

    Yeah right expanding foam, couldn't get the name that time. Although I can't understand the fiberglass part. how do I work with that?

  9. Hmmm, maybe in the modern cars it's that way. I have always noticed on older models. Anyways, I would get it checked with multiple mechanics before getting any work done. It helps so that you just don't throw away your money and nothing gets done.

    I am also guessing that the fan's temperature connection to the engine is cut off (hope that is a thing) so it always stays on.

  10. Hello, 

    I took a trip to bidayer this week and tore off the lip on the front of my cruiser. I never liked the shape of that front lip and wanted to get something different for it. Now I am thinking of making a custom lip using hardening foam. I have seen many videos and wanted to do a diy on my own car. What are the views of the car pros?

  11. @desertdude @Gaurav @Barry @Rahimdad

    Heylo, 

    So I did go to bidayer yesterday and the trip was the best one I had SO FAR. The grandtreks were actually not bad as they managed not to get me stuck anywhere. Although, not bad doesn't mean they are good because I couldn't turn into a corner at will. I had to turn early to and throttle hard to make the car turn in. I also couldn't make it to the top of the high dunes, I think i needed to go with lower pressures cuz I went with 18 psi and also I did not take the straight path uphill but the one with a lot of dunes. They had a lot of ditches that made it really scary to drive. Every now and then when the car lost grip on the slopes sideways, I feared we would roll over but I think that is the first timer fear as the other desert safari drivers where ripping it harder than me. I did not get too deep into the desert but just enough so that I could see the entry point. I did not get stuck Alhamdulillah but also couldn't get atop of the no joke dunes but I think it is ok for the first time.

    I also managed to rip the front lip off :P to a blind small hole. Soon Ill get good tires and join you on your drives.

  12. 40 minutes ago, desertdude said:

    You can deflate your tyres at home also, why would you need to go any shop? And yes the shops there have compressors. 

    @desertdude @Gaurav @derek @BarryBut my home is long way to bidayer, I hope the car wont rollover on the way with the less pressures. How much pressure do you recommend for making the crap grand treks work in the sand. Also would you use the yellow hose with the gauge on it(the yellow hose on modular compressors) to deflate the tires. 

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