Frederic

@Mukundan Nair i will add you to the manage tab as you are intermediate.

@Danish Mohammad you have been added to the drive. (we are now at max limit convoy size) Current Waitlist 1) Sreenath (1st drive) 2) Imranaas81 (1st drive) 3) Syed Salman (1st drive) 4) Varunmehndiratta (2nd drive) Preference will be given to members that have not yet secured a drive for this weekend. Tomorrow we will open the RSVP and see who is eligible to be added if any space becomes avaiable.

Thanks guys for the quick signup for Fridays drive in Pink Rock ! @Chris Meir @frederic demolder @Federico De Chirico @Gavin Hill @Melenany @Federico Galbieri @Nathan Evans @Kaile Barrameda @Abdul Rahman Abdul Kader @Hisham Masaad Please make sure you have below items with you when joining our drive, otherwise we won't be able to accept you. Fully charged and programmed radio (walkie talkie) Safety flag, safely mounted on the car Tire deflator and tire pressure gauge Compressor to inflate your tires. If you need any help in getting these stuff, search tons of information here or ask on the forum and many offroaders will be happy to guide you to buy these before the drive. See you guys on Friday !

Hi @Atif as you are intermediate, i will add you to the Manage tab. See you on Friday !

Try Sedana trading or have a walk around in Al quoz or Sharjah Industrial where they have the automotive tools shops.

Ooh yes Crutchfield is amazing, even after all these years !

Agree, EQ should be kept minimal and is only there to slightly alter your personal taste. In IASCA testing the scope tests should return flat level throughout the frequency spectrum. The 8" mids are a perfect option to give you some kickbass in the 80-350 Hz range. With regards to an underseat sub, i think that's not easy to achieve and/or install. What you could do is install a Subwoofer enclosure in the back of the car that has a quick-coupling to easily disconnect the wires when you need to remove the enclosure. I did this in the past where the boot of the car was taken by Subwoofers but occasionally needed the space to put the stroller

As a budget option it is perfectly doable to keep the rear speakers connected to your head-unit IF your headunit is of decent quality. The reason for this is that your front speakers matter the most in providing you a clear crisp detailed stereo image, so most of your budget should go to that. Rear speakers are meant as "infill" to compliment to the overall sound in your car. In sound level you should be aiming at a 70/30 rate in which 70% of the power is made by the front speakers, and 30% is the sound coming from the rear. A Subwoofer is ideally meant to compliment the lack of low frequencies your front and rear speakers can play. Everything below 80hz can be filtered and sent to the subwoofer if the amplifier has a Low Pass Filter (LPF) on board. The front and rear speakers are not made for that anyways. Unfortunately 95% of the sound systems i hear in cars is ALL BASS and nothing else. I stepped away from that whole audio scene long time back after i noticed some car manufacturers (especially German) really stepped up their game with decent speakers, and sometimes built-in subwoofers. They are far from perfect, but with a bit of EQ and some small improvements you will have very decent sound quality in a premium vehicle without the need to tear it all apart and replace.

Ground Zero is indeed well known in Europe. I don't have experience with it as i was a car audio fanatic in the 2000-2006 before the brand was arriving in Europe markets under the Ground Zero Gmbh holding. I've had Rockford Fosgate, JL Audio, Kicker, Lanzar, and few others which i had in different installs over the years. Initially i went for Db Drag contests, but later moved to IASCA sound quality contests. Totally agree with the sound insulation works, your speaker will only sound as good as the enclosure it's sitting in, and without proper insulation your high-end speaker will never come alive. Forget about the "Watts" as most companies advertise the PMPO output (Peak Music Power Output) which is TOTALLY irrelevant. The RMS rating is more realistic. Just make sure your amplifier is able to deliver a clean undistorted signal to the speaker, so ideally your RMS output rating of the amp should be higher than the RMS rating of your speaker. You can further fine tune with the sensitivity potmeter to make sure you're not overloading the speakers. Subwoofers are a different subject at all. If you are tight for space, go for a 10inch subwoofer either on its own amplifier, or bridged on your 5 channel amplifier. I am more in favor of using a separate amp for the sub. Try to avoid messing too much with the EQ of your head unit and all these bass-boost functions that only distort the original signal. If you want more bass, get more or bigger subwoofers instead of overloading them with distorted signals. In my little Pajero i have a Lanzar 4channel amp with Lanzar front speakers and JBL GTO oval speakers in the back. Few months back the amplifier (which was already quite old) starting crackling and eventually after trying to repair it i just threw it away and for the moment everything is connected to the Kenwood head unit. I can only dream about having a Subwoofer again as i simply don't have any space in the back due to all the offroad tools and equipment. Picture from my first setup in 2001: Pioneer 4 Channel Amp for the Pioneer speakers, and a RF Punch 60x2 Amp for the RF 12" Punch Series Subwoofer. Good times 😁

@Michael Gazi i noticed you have signed up for two drives on Friday. As per our policy we kindly request every member to sign up for 1 drive only between Sunday and Tuesday. From Wednesday onwards we allow a second booking. Please select which drive you will be attending (morning or afternoon). If you wish to join the second drive you can ask in the drive topic to be added to the waitlist. Thanks

Let's try to clear up the doubts here: The original aim of our RSVP system is to secure a spot (RSVP) for every active member as per their drive level, and to make sure everyone gets a chance for a weekly offroad drive (at least 1). 1) From when the drives are posted on Sunday till Wednesday morning, we kindly ask our members to RSVP only in 1 drive, with the intention of having enough spots available so everyone gets a fair chance to book into a drive. 2) If by any chance you were not able to secure a spot on any of our drives, you should send a message on the drive topic of the drive you wish to join with the message that says: "Can you please add me to the waiting list for my first drive of the weekend ?" 3) If you have a preference to book into another drive next to the one you have RSVPd for, you can do so by sending a message on the drive topic that says: "Can you please add me to the waiting list for my second drive of the weekend". 4) From Wednesday onwards we open the drive RSVP again and allow members to book into a second drive if the RSVP is not yet full. 5) On Thursday the drive lead will look at his RSVP list and can start adding members from the waitlist to fill up his drive or fill in the spots that became empty. Preference will be given to people on the waitlist that have not yet secured a drive for the weekend.

Thanks @Rahimdad Below i have added the 3.0 SOHC 24 Valve engine specs as well. And some detailed explanation on how the MIVEC system works on the 3.8 engines (taken from 3SI.org): The MIVEC system features separate cam profiles for high and low engine speed modes, which translates to higher maximum power and increased usable torque in the widest variety of driving conditions. Under low-rev conditions, MIVEC selects the smaller cam profile, yielding medium lift on the cam profile which provides stable combustion and lower emissions. But when the throttle is opened wide and engine speed reaches 4300 rpm, MIVEC allows the intake valves a longer duration and longer stroke, thus providing maximum and efficient power and torque over a broader range of engine speeds. The enhanced power output of the MIVEC system is achieved by its ability to vary the lift and duration of the intake valves. In the MIVEC system, there are three distinct cam profiles that create two engine modes: a low-speed mode, consisting of low- and mid-lift cam profiles; and a high-speed mode. The low- and mid-lift cams and rocker arms – which drive separate intake valves – are positioned on either side of a centrally located high-lift cam. The high-lift cam is directly connected to a T-shaped lever, which controls valve lift and duration of both intake valves in the high engine-speed mode. At lower engine speeds, the T-shaped levers connected to the high-lift cams reciprocate freely without contacting intake-valve rocker arms, thus allowing the low- and mid-lift cam lobes to control corresponding intake-valve lift and timing. The intake rocker arms contain internal pistons retained by springs in a lowered position at less than 4300 rpm, to avoid contacting the high-lift T-shaped levers. The benefit of the dual-profile low-speed mode is to induce swirl within the cylinder, which helps create stable combustion and improve emissions. The high-speed mode opens the valves longer due to its higher lift. At high engine speeds, the pistons within the rocker arms elevate when MIVEC sends increased oil pressure through an oil control valve. The high-lift cams’ T-shaped levers are then able to directly contact the elevated rocker-arm pistons, overriding the low-speed cam lobes and fully controlling intake-valve lift and duration. The switch occurs at approximately 4300 / 4000 rpm 4G69 / 6G75), when the powertrain control module opens the valves longer to increase the amount of intake airflow, resulting in higher engine output. More precisely, MIVEC switches to the higher cam profile as engine speed increases, and drops back to the lower cam profile as engine speed decreases; the output torque of the low- and high-speed modes overlap for a brief period. This also means that the cam switch operation is transparent to the driver, who is simply rewarded with more power. Under low-rev conditions the low- and mid-lift cam lobes drive the intake valves, providing better fuel economy and lower emissions. But when the throttle is opened wide and engine speed increased, MIVEC gives the valves a longer duration and higher lift, thus providing maximum and efficient power and torque over a very broad range of engine speeds. Despite its technological complexity, the basic workings of the MIVEC engine system can be expressed quite simply: MIVEC alters the cam profiles, tailoring engine performance to suit your driving needs. The MIVEC system was made to compete against the VVT-I (Toyota) and VTEC (Honda systems). The engine on my little blue is a 3.0 12Valve, so performance is even lower. (about 150 Hp at 250 Nm). Have seen an engine curve on the internet a long back but can't seem to find it anymore.

If you decide to change the Tyres, go for something like the Geolandars AT. You won’t regret it.

True. The Unichip is currently the only viable solution for getting rid of the upshift issue in your generation Pajero. A 8mm aluminum bash plate doesn’t weigh a lot. I think 10-15kg at most.

Congrats !!

Well deserved @Abu Muhammad !! Your smile and positive attitude from you and your son are a blessing on our drives !

Congrats and well deserved !!!

Many people have doubts about which engine type of Pajero they should buy, and specifically which will perform best in the desert. Mitsubishi provides the engine performance curves on their brochure but as they are not comparative i wanted to compare the 3.5 6G74 , and 3.8 6G75 engines from the 4th Generation Pajero (2008 till YTD). In above charts you will see the performance of both engines with Output in Kilowatts and Torque in Nm. When you layer these over each other you will get the following: Conclusive results: Output kw or Horsepower: The 3.8 engine performs the best with a max output of 250Hp at 6000rpm, while the 3.5 engine reaches its peak output of 189Hp at 4,750rpm. Up to 4500 rpm both engines react and perform quite similar, which would indicate for driving in the dunes they will perform similar, except for hill climbs where you will need to go beyond that rpm. The 3.8 clearly has the upper hand at that point. Torque: Again the 3.8 shows higher torque values with a max. of 327Nm at an rpm of 2,750rpm, while the 3.5 model reaches 306Nm at 3,750rpm. In Carnity Offroad Club we have seen 3.5 Pajeros performing very well, and while the 3.8 engine has the upper hand when it comes to high-rev hill climbs, they are both capable offroad engines that will do well in the right hands. Purpose of this topic is to consult your engine performance and try to find the "sweet spot" in at which your engine and torque level would be the best for that particular application. From these charts it is quite clear that the 3.5 engine needs to be used more on a lower rpm range and with the proper momentum. Of course these values are theoretical and one will find big differences between each vehicle depending on how well it was maintained, how old the engine is, or if there are issues with the vehicle (spark plugs, injectors, air filter issues). We have plenty of Pajero owners, so let's discuss and learn from each other !

This is because the Calendar events are yet to go online. (tonight at 7PM). They are made and kept in the background until they go live.

Is it possible that the bumper breaks from scooping up sand during a descent ? If that is the case (like pajeros) maybe an aluminum plate underneath the bumper would help to prevent this.

You can join any Newbie drive as per your preference. You’ll find that the drives in Sharjah and Dubai are different terrains which helps in learning faster.

Hi @Danish Mohammad as you have done an Absolute Newbie drive before, please book into one of the Newbie drives that will be posted Sunday evening. This drive is exclusively for first joiners. Thanks !

This drive is organized in full compliance with the COVID19 guidelines. We expect every member that joins this drive to go through below information and and strictly follow these guidelines in order not to jeopardize someone's health, and to ensure we can keep organizing these drives safely. MUST READ AND TOTALLY AGREE: COVID19 Precautions MUST READ AND TOTALLY AGREE: BAN POST Two Way Radio Guidelines Every Offroader brings his own radio, programmed to the frequencies described in below advice topic. We will not share spare radios or program your radio on the drive. If you need assistance in programming the radio, post a topic on the Carnity website with your questions and we will help you out. Make sure your radio is fully charged. It will be your only way of communication while driving. Before buying, please carefully read below advice so you are informed properly on which model / cost / shops... No radio = No drive. It is an essential tool and you should make sure you bring it on every drive and learn/practice how to use it. MUST WATCH: NEWBIE VIDEO BRIEFING Drive Details Level: Newbie and above (All Level) When: 11 Dec 2020, Friday. Meeting time: 06:30 AM (SHARP - Without any exceptions) Meeting Point: Tawi Nazwa Farm - https://goo.gl/maps/rkkmz9FmyFwSb1jc8 Type of Car: Any proper 4x4 with front and back tow hooks and 8-10 inches of ground clearance. What to bring along: Loads of water, snacks (for yourself), face mask, rubber gloves, enthusiasm and willingness to learn. Approximate finish time: 10:30 AM LIMITED SPOTS AVAILABLE: Limited to 15 cars maximum. RSVP will close on Thursday - 9 AM. 1 Lead Marshal + 2 or 1 Senior Members + 12 Members. If the RSVP is full and you wish to join, please mention your name on the drive thread to add on the waiting list Latecomers will be returned back - without ANY EXCEPTIONS. Members without RSVP will be returned back - without ANY EXCEPTIONS. Members that do not confirm the terms of the COVID requirements will be removed from the RSVP list. Please withdraw your RSVP, if you aren't joining, so your spot can be taken by others. Repeated no-show members after RSVP will have their account suspended for a month. PLEASE RSVP ON THE CALENDAR