Stumpy

Yep, this is a flush mount Anderson plug. i installed this a while ago as the power supply for my portable compressor,

Hi mate, yes the front diff was lowered as well, now have 2” suspension and 1”subframe drop on the front. front uses spacers on the subframe and strut spacers on the struts to give the extra 1”. I Would have to have a look at the gen2 to work out what’s needed with the torsion bars

Mostly personal preference but the V6 Engine bay is a bit to cramped, if this was the 3.2TD I would have a second battery and the compressor in the engine bay. there is lots of free space in the 1/4 panel plus it’s pulling clean cool air from the cabin, the engine bay cops at lot of sand and heat (over 90deg) so hopefully the compressor will last a bit longer in this location.

A small project that I have been putting off for a while. mounted the ARB compressor inside the rear L/H quarter panel. Lots of room even with the factory amplifier. had some left over sound deadening mat so put a bit in as well. took about three hours to do so nice little mod that frees up some of the limited space in the back of the SWB. Have a kill switch for it next to battery and the switch next to the air fitting but will install a relay and a switch in my dash next. (Just have to find a heavy duty 60amp relay)

1000km down and all is well so far, had to install 10mm spacers under the transmission mount as there was a bit of vibration from the tail shaft at higher speeds. Easy job just took me a few days to find something suitable. car drives the same, body roll and handling hasn’t changed, if anything it’s a bit better due to the new UCAs and trailing arm bushes. 👍👍👍👍

Is this on your gen 2, could be many things. Most likely if it’s coming from the front it’s the sway bar bushing or the torsion bar mounts. Could also be the shocks or the diff mounting. Try driving in 4l reverse at full lock, will tell you if the cvs are causing any issues, you can disconnect the sway bar and carefully simulate the same conditions with a raised wheel to see if it’s still happening.

Sorry @Ale Vallecchi have to remove myself, can’t make it this afternoon

The best mode is what works for you, as long as you feel in control 👍 You will find that in manual mode you get more control over the car, as you do more drives I would use it as much as you can so that you get a good feel for what’s happening, it will be come second nature soon enough and when you go back to auto it will feel like you are disconnected from the car 😂 the problem with all of our petrol engines is they are junk at low rpm’s, to unleash your petrols inner beast you need to let it rev 😂 or get a diesel

This is probably a topic that has been bashed around hundreds of times 😂 I would tend to disagree that it should be in auto, on the sand I nearly always use manual mode, only on long flat runs I will put it back into auto. the main reasons are control, engine braking and to save wear/heat in The transmission. 1. A automatic transmission can not predict what you are about to do so it will select a gear based on what the current needs are. This is great if you are on the road and the main concern is engine efficiency, not so good if you’re half way up a dune get a bit of wheel spin and decides to up shift. 2. When descending and the load comes off the transmission again it can upshift right when you need the engine braking to control your descent. A safety issue as the car starts to run away, you instinctively hit the brake and over you go. 3. A auto is a fluid pump, it works by converting hydraulic pressure into torque. It does this by pumping fluid through a torque converter. At low speed this converter is allowed to slip to allow the engine to build rpm. This slip is what generates the heat in the fluid. At higher speeds and in manual mode there is less slip and in some cases the converter will lock up. By driving in manual mode you control the slip and stop some of the heat being generated. Therefore you can stop your transmission overheating or getting damaged. I have seen many Pajeros suffer from the over temp gearbox, never had mine come anywhere near to the limit, all of them were driving in auto. just my 2c, happy to be proved wrong.

Hi mate, nope same old dented fuel tank, it’s on the list 🤣( very long list) as for approval I am trying to get it sorted as want to make sure it’s all above board. Took it to the inspection station and the inspector said no need for suspension upgrade but not convinced that’s right so still chasing it. by the rules you need approval for everything non standard, we would all fail 😂

Subframe drop done 👍, took a day and a half to install but well worth it I think. Did a f+ drive with @Ale Vallecchi on Sunday to test and suspension seams to move a lot better with the new UCAs and trailing arms. Didn’t lift wheels anywhere as much as previously. bit of a full on job to install yourself in the Dubai summer 🥵 but thanks to @Bravoechofor your help. (Only had to get the angle grinder out for one old mount bolt 😂, and to modify the air filter housing) comparison photo to a standard SWB added

Has anyone installed their own subframe drop and UCA’s. any tips or tricks you might have, mainly concerned with the front subframe, I have the radiator and power steering drop brackets as well but I think I might have problems with the engine intake hose contacting the TJM snorkel ducting. Would anyone know who would stock a good selection on silicone hoses that I could replace the standard intake with? I think I won’t need to do a wheel alignment with the forward UCAs as there is nothing adjustable there but the rear control arms will definitely need it. Has anyone done their own rear wheel alignment on their paj? will be tackling this next weekend just trying to get everything ready thank you

I Was having the same problem with my cronos switch. Loose all lights and could not reset without restarting car. Would also get the handbrake (abs) warning light come on when ambient temp was above 30ish. I removed the cronos switch and replaced it with one made in Australia (I am told cronos tried to copy the Australian one) all my problems are fixed, the new one works perfectly. new factory look switch old harness on the left, looks similar but the new one on the right has much better workmanship/quality parts.

Not applicable on Pajero, especially points 1 thru 7, you have to worry about all of them all the time 😂

These where badged as the MU (mysterious utility) probably the coolest name. Great little car especially with the 2.8 td. The drive train came from the commercial pick up and only really suffered from a weak clutch, they rusted out pretty bad as they spent a lot of time on the beach. Back when air con and electric windows were still a option 😂

@Gary F congratulations mate 👍, look forward to driving with you when I catch up. The sand runner has become a iconic part of carnity drives

When purchasing a car I always revert to what my local Dictators/cartel/UN use No1. Toyota, any Toyota will do.(Hilux, Pardo, FJ, landcruiser) Landcruiser is the best and they will all transport your 50cal with ease. Best suited for: war zones reliable: will out last your natural life and your sons No2. Nissan, y61 is the pick, great out of the box with minimal mods required. wouldn’t look at the others, they make brilliant drive trains but the rest of the car tends to fall apart around it. best suited for: light AA/rocket launcher work, transporting livestock. reliable: will last until retirement No3. mitsubishi, only look at the 3.8, great for the UN/governments on a budget. Does nothing particularly well but won’t let you down and parts are cheap. best suited for: budget oriented dictatorships, old men towing caravans. reliable: will last until the next civil uprising or cartel leadership challenge, probably 15-20 years No4 Jeep, has not been used in anger since the Korean War, can not find any government or warlord who has ever put their trust in them. Great as long as you don’t dive above 80km/h. beat suited for: frat boys driving to the beach, make sure there is a workshop on the way. Also good in movies reliable: should make it to the beach this weekend but will need a rebuild afterwards. 😂 I jest, get what you like, they all have pros and cons, some you have to spend a little more on as you move up drive levels and some are more difficult in the sand but that’s part of the challenge. I would Always look at what the locals and tourist drives are using as that a good indicator as to what works (they are out there every day unlike us weekend warriors) word of caution, get one that a good support mechanism as most workshops here are rubbish, the simpler more common car would be my pick as they would have the most experience repairing. good luck. p.s. get the super safari

@Alexanderrr thank you, I think it is the bushes inside the rack that are flogged out, it is not leaking yet. This is my second rack (used) and it has been rebuilt already so I don’t have much confidence in any of the work shops here. I should have just brought a new one the first time around 😂 if they can replace the bushes and adjust the backlash properly, and provide a warranty then would definitely look at a rebuild. If you know of any shops I could talk to that would be great

Update: new starter and she’s all fixed👌 thank you for your help. next job: steering rack, I wonder if I can replace this in the car park as well😳🤷‍♂️