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james

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Everything posted by james

  1. central locking is not very expensive should not cost u around 300 to 350 but i am wondering why you dont have it already.
  2. Yes there is a pump that needs to be replaced and check for any blockages.
  3. Piston rings or crank bearing is getting shaved and be ready for heavy expense in opening engine. If you are revving car 24/7 then that could be the reason too.
  4. Dont bother much with clicking if it isnt very loud and jerking too. Whenever in doubt for gear better change OEM gear oil with filter, it might saves thousand later.
  5. You are looking at malfuction in engine. Better get car hooked up to cadi diagnostic system and let the fault code tell you the whole story. I wouldnt bother guess here in this regard as it might cost more in hit and trial than finding fault with OBD tools.
  6. Steering becoming hard, squeaking or humm too much while turning esp full turns.
  7. One of the tire has lost the weight on its rim, get it re balanced.
  8. Not necessarily, if brake drums / discs is thicker than 5mm dont change if lower its advisable change too. Mechanic shud able to advise that as well.
  9. Most likely- a stuck blower relay (this is in the fuse box under the hood, try pulling it, or tap on it, and see if the blower stops). If it's this the blower would be running on the highest speed. Less likely but possible- a problem in the BCM. If it's in here the blower would run on a lower speed but you'd probably be able to control the speed and turn it off.
  10. It seems like loose connection behind the display. See some qualified technician to open and refix the instrument cluster and fix all wires and wire looms properly.
  11. It cud be air leak from any door beading, try noticing which door and then try putting some cloth or newspaper in between whole door and test drive, if its stops get the new beading of that door or you can fill some silicone inside the beading and refix it tightly to seal the air leak.
  12. Go for second opinion and figure out if tyre was old stock sold to you or if it was not properly balanced. Either of two and thats why guy who sold doesnt want to mention to start re work without money. If tyre is old stock due to improper storage technique often times it gets bulged or swollen resulting in such situation.
  13. If its 200% perfect leave it, if you have 0.00000000001% doubt then better change it. Also check piston rings, connecting rod bearing and change all seals and gasket while this level of rebuild. You will have 0km engine.
  14. Use 20w40 or 20w50 and change oil frequently in older engine. Oil is cheap here. Secondly never ever clean the engine with engine oil additives as you will have vibrating and pinking engine, as it will clean lot of old carbon with acid. ABT CKPS here is instructions that i searched for you to help: Its on the side of the block firewall side REMOVAL Disconnect the wiring harness (1) from the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor pigtail (1). Securely attach a scrap piece of wire about 36 inches long to the CKP sensor pigtail. Later, this piece will be used as a pull wire to guide the new sensor pigtail back through the same routing. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the oil filter and capture any lost engine oil in a container. Loosen the oil cooler lines at the engine block. Back out the fittings far enough in order to gain sufficient clearance for the sensor pigtail connector to pass between the oil cooler lines and the side of the engine block. Remove the fastening bolt for the CKP sensor. Remove the CKP sensor and the O-ring seal from the engine block. Remove the CKP sensor pigtail. Observe the routing of the pigtail. Gently pull the CKP sensor pigtail down through the routing path and out. Guide the pigtail connector along the top of the oil cooler lines around to the side of the engine block. Pass the connector between the lines and the block at the point of the widest gap. Stop when the pull wire is exposed at both ends of the routing path. Disconnect the sensor from the pull wire. INSTALLATION Securely attach the CKP sensor pigtail to the lower end of the pull wire. Pass the pigtail connector between the oil cooler lines and the engine block. Using the pull wire as a guide, pull the sensor pigtail along the top of the oil cooler lines and around to the rear of the engine. Use the pull wire to pull the pigtail into position. Disconnect the pull wire from the sensor pigtail. Connect the sensor pigtail to the harness connector. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the CKP sensor and the engine block. Install the CKP sensor with a new O-ring seal into the engine block. Install the fastening bolt (1) for the CKP sensor. Check the harness for proper routing. Make sure that the wiring cannot come in contact with the exhaust manifold. Tighten the oil cooler lines at the engine block. Install the oil filter. Lower the vehicle. Recheck the engine oil level.
  15. First try free fix. Remove battery and and remnove O2 sensor and start the car for 2 min. Then switch off remove battery again and refix 02 sensor and drive for 1 - 2 days and see any change. If no improvement, also change new crankshaft sensor, very imp for fuel handling. This shud solve problem. Try fuel line cleaner additive on highway miles in half tank, they also actually work.
  16. Overheating indicate, in efficient cooling system. Which consist of: ( may be) Radiator blocked or choked Radiator leaking Radiator coolant reservoir bottle leaked and cant suck coolant when needed Check radiator and radiator bottle caps. It shud be air tight. Check thermostat if its opening and closing at right temp Check Viscose clutch fan (radiator BIG fan) Check AC fan (small one) Check water pump Check alternator.
  17. Mobil 1, all the way. Check OEM spec (like 70w p0, 140w 90 etc) and get Mobil 1 for same spec and im sure u and ur gear will be happy forever.
  18. NOPE, you can run it for a while onm temp fix like leak sealants and all from ACE. But it wont hold for long. Better to get new asap or else u might end up frying the engine by chance.
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