207_gti

the reason i ask if you had the brakes replaced is because they may have damaged an ABS sensor in the process

im not sure about the 307, but on the 207 its located behind the front bumper, just in front of the driver's side wheel arch....perhaps u can have a look there? first thing to do would be to take your owners manual and have a look where the fuse for the horn would be; perhaps it needs to be replaced

The AC has nothing to do with the cooling of the engine, it is only used to cool the inside of the car. if the car is over-heating it may be due to the radiator fan not working. or maybe a radiator leak? have you had a look to see if there is enough water in the radiator? have you had a look at the coolant level? another issue might be a faulty thermostat; in which case the car is perfectly fine, but the thermostat is taking a "hot" reading

is the check engine light on? the car might have switched to "limp mode" if it detected a problem such as a misfire, or if the timing has somehow been changed. best thing to do is to get urself an OBD-II scanner tool to check what kind of error codes come up from the car's ECU. that would make diagnosing the problem a lot easier

That error refers to a fault found with injector 1 Causes The causes could be any of the following: Bad injector. This is usually the cause of this code but doesn't rule out the possibility of one of the other causes Open in the wiring to the injector Short in the wiring to the injector Bad PCM Possible Solutions First, using a DVOM check the resistance of the injector. If it isn't within specs, then replace the injector. Check for voltage at the fuel injector connector. It should have 10 volts or more. Visually check the connector for damage or broken wires. Visually check the injector for damage. If you have access to an injector tester, activate the injector and see if it operates. If the injector operates, then you likely have either an open in the wiring, or a blocked injector. If you do not have access to a tester, swap the injector with another one and see if the code changes. If the code changes, then change the injector. At the PCM, remove the driver wire from the PCM connector and Ground the wire. (Make sure you have the correct wire. If you're not sure, do not attempt) The injector should activate Replace the injector

did u by any chance recently have your brakes replaced?

there are a few things to consider when buying new rims. u have to consider the size, the offset and number of nuts. the easiest thing to do is to get rims that match the stock rims

you will experience misfires, sometimes difficulty in starting the car

could be the power steering fluid, could also be the steering pump, or the hydraulic lines....how many km's on the car?

how many km's has the car done?

Good day people. I have a 2009 207 RC LeMans. I have decided to join as I feel its my job to make Peugeot aware of problems on their cars, to inform other customers that because Peugeot is not aware of these problems they end up costing the customers A LOT of unnecessary money, and to try and get Peugeot's TERRIBLE service to a better standard

yup, traction control is a safety measure. if you are just driving normally (i.e in a straight line) and it appears, then there is a faulty switch. if it is when your pulling away from standstill it can also be an indicator that you need new tyres

i would not recommend putting xenon bulbs in the standard headlights. xenon produces MUCH higher heat, and so you risk causing damage to the headlights. also, they require more power, if it messes around with your electrical system, you might even lose engine power. best thing to do is to search online and see if people have done it and if they have encountered any problems

on some cars it can take a little while before the gauge starts rising....if after 10 minutes of driving it has done nothing, have it checked out

locate the low current ignition fuse and see if it needs to be replaced

when the engine light comes on you will also be given a "depollution error" message. one way of clearing it would be to disconnect the battery for 5 minutes IMMEDIATELY after switching off the engine

its better to be safe than sorry....if, at any time, on any engine, u replace a major part, take at least 1000kms to run it in...no more than 120km/h and no higher than 4000RPM

yup check the owners manual or on the side of the tyre. it all depends on the tyre size and profile as well. on the 2009-10 207 the tyre pressure with the 17" rims and 205/45/ R17 tyres is 2.6 bar (38 psi)

so my latest little DIY project was to install a Boost Gauge. I picked up a PROSPORT 30psi / -30inHG 45mm gauge from http://www.rspec.co.uk for AED.260 + AED.27 shipping to UK address + Dhs41 shipping to Dubai (shipping was super fast; ordered it on Monday and received by Thursday). Project time: about 8 hours Total Cost : about AED.380 ill give step by step directions for those who wanna do the same but haven't got a clue where to start ok so i got the 45mm gauge because its the only size that'll fit in the DIN storage compartment, plus its only 30mm deep, so a nice compact little unit as you can see, the storage compartment get narrower towards the back, so the back of the 45mm gauge only just just makes it tools that i used: dremmel used this to cut and trim the plastic piece to cover the storage compartment double sided tape scissors sandpaper wire-stripper hobby-knife compass nylon vacuum hose (need it to be nylon as there is a risk of the normal tubing collapsing under the vacuum). 6mm OD, 4mm ID (AED.4/m) Push-To-Connect T-piece (AED.15) 6mm l 12mm ------ 12mm this is a fantastic little gizmo. you simply push the hose onto the hole and these little teeth grip onto the hose. to release you just push the blue thingy and pull the hose out. I needed this type of tee because with the 207s (and Mini's) we don't have a secondary line to tap into to get a boost reading. so, we need to cut the intake manifold pipe and get a reading from there. now, with the intake manifold pipe, you don't wanna mess around. if this goes wrong you will have no power-steering, no brakes, no clutch. so you really cant afford to skimp out on this part. and finally the boost gauge. very nice looking little unit. has a Swiss stepper motor with full 270 degree sweep so now to the part i enjoyed most; making it look good I cut up a tupperware container (if you are married or living at home, DO NOT use the woman's tupperware as you will be departed of your nutsack in the most violent manner possible ). at first i was gonna use perspex, but if u look at the storage thing from the side, you will see that it has a curve to. perspex is pretty tough, and in order to bend it you need to use a bit of heat. so the plastic container was the next option as it is pretty flexible. the cut piece to be used I then stuck this piece to the front of the storage compartment using double-sided-tape. once it was on i cut the majority of the excess off with the scissors and then used the dremmel to trim the remaining excess plastic. the tape and plastic stick about 3mm out. First i made a hole in the back for the gauge wires to fit through next was to make a hole for the gauge to fit into test fit the gauge i then wrapped the front and a bit more excess of the actual storage thing with carbon fiber vinyl and connect the wires to the back of the gauge. then fitted the gauge in i realized that the power wires for the gauge is far too short to reach the fuse box, so had to extend it. soldered some extra wire to each of the other wires, put some heat-shrinking on each, and then wrapped it all in a bit of tape So, here's how I went about with the whole installation. I wanted to get the hose through first before doing anything else to make sure I had enough of it. how much you need is dependent on whether you want to use a mechanical or electro gauge. with the mechanical ones, on a RHD car you will need at least 3m (10ft). With an electro gauge you don't need as much because the boost sender wire is already around 2m long (the closer you can get the boost sender to the source the better though). The problem on mine is that, because its a LHD the grommet I found is located on the left-hand-side, behind a panel, next to the clutch pedal BUT, this is where my problems started, and why the project took so long. on the other side of the firewall was this: and its hard plastic; so couldn't just poke a hole through it. So after a few more hours of trying to find a place I decided, "screw it, im gonna drill through the floor. Went through the floor right by the door and then up to the engine bay and made sure the hose wont rub on any moving parts. i also used contact glue to plug up the hole where the hose goes into the car Next was to cut the intake manifold pipe, and connect that and the vacuum hose up to the tee connecting the hose to the boost sender. the nylon tubing was a BUGGER to try and get onto the sender's nipple, so instead, i used a little bit (4cm) of silicon tubing to connect the sender to the hose. it still took a bit of effort, but eventually got it done also VERY important is this filter which goes between the boost source and boost sender. it is needed as the vapors which travel up in the pipe can/will damage the sender's electronics zip tied to make sure it wont come off Now for power. Connected the positive to a fuse, negative to a ground behind the clutch (same place my interior LED kit is grounded. Then it was another mission to find a fuse that only has power going to it when the car is started. after much fussing i figured to use the fuse for the cglovebox light. the wire for the gauge's light was also connected to this fuse. Tested everything to make sure it worked. Warmed the car up and took her for a drive. afterwards i disconnected the wires, rerouted them, tucked them away and connected it all up again. and were DONE!! after loads of frustration i still think it was worth it. learned a hell of a lot and i reckon it came out pretty sweet. i know it looks really empty on either sides of the gauge, but will use that space for switches for WMI and CRYo2 systems later

Good day people. I have a 2009 207 RC LeMans. I have decided to join as I feel its my job to make Peugeot aware of problems on their cars, to inform other customers that because Peugeot is not aware of these problems they end up costing the customers A LOT of unnecessary money, and to try and get Peugeot's TERRIBLE service to a better standard

I've decided to post this as I find it absolutely ridiculous that Peugeot does not even seem to be AWARE of some of these problems. I recently encountered a problem on my 2009 207 RC LeMans and after gathering A LOT of info and talking to people who are VERY knowledgeable about the 207 I had narrowed down the problem. I will discuss this issue as well. But when I spoke to Peugeot, I could see that the service manager had no idea about this problem, and I had to actually explain to him how this part works. Now, unfortunately for Peugeot, they have a long running issue; they sometimes produce and sell EXCELLENT products, but their after-sales-service is really not what it should be. Nor are they willing to listen to the customers and pass on the info given. I will discuss this more further on. Pretty much any Peugeot driver will, at some point or another, be plagued by the "Depollution Error" fault. Now, logic would tell us that this has something to do with some sort of pollution error. However, this is quite a generic fault and can include many issues NOT related to some kind of pollution issue. Often, when this error is produced the car will switch to "limp mode" in which case it opens up the wastegate and no turbo pressure is sent to the intake. Common problems which will cause this: 1. The blow-off valve (or diverter valve) is manufactured to withstand 1 bar (14 psi) of pressure. On a stock setup this is the pressure that the turbo supplies. However, the blow-off valve still fails. Inside it has a rubber membrane which at some point will tear. The problem is, if you take the car to Peugeot they will want to replace the ENTIRE turbo unit. If your car is out of its warranty period this can cost you up to AED. 10 000, and will take 3 weeks to ship from France. This is NOT necessary. The company that makes the blow-off valve is called Piersburg, and they make blow off valves for VAG (Volkwagen Audi Group) and these blow-off valves can be found in a range of VW, Audi, Skoda and Seat models. The blow-off valve in the VAG cars are manufactured to withstand pressure of up to 2 bar (28 psi) which makes it perfect for the 207's problem. Now the entire VAG unit will not fit on the 207, but all we need are the internals. So, all you need to do is to go to VW and purchase the blow-off valve, which will cost around AED.400. Then you just have to swap out the VAG unit's internals with that of the Peugeot's. 2. This is the problem I had recently. There is another valve called a "Depollution Canister Valve". The purpose of this valve is to control the burning of petrol fumes. Because petrol is a volatile substance, this means that it will evaporate easily. What this means to us is that there will be some sort of pressure building up in the fuel tank. To release this pressure, a valve is fitted on the intake manifold pipe. however, this valve only opens when cruising; i.e when turbo boost is not needed. But, when turbo boost is produced, this valve needs to close. Failure to do so will mean that the turbo boost will be sent to the fuel tank and not reach the intake side of the engine. When this happens the computer will automatically read this as a problem with the turbo. These valves sometimes do become a bit dirty resulting in the valve's piston becoming stuck. Unfortunately, there is no way of testing this valve and so we can only figure out whether or not this part is fault by replacing it. Again, Peugeot does not seem to be aware of this and so will want to replace the entire turbo unit. Instead this part can be purchased for AED.155 . In other cases, this valve can be reset by disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes IMMEDIATELY after switching the car off. But if he valve is really stuck, this will not fix the issue. 3. Yet another valve can cause major problems. The Boost control valve sometimes also stops working, which will cause excessive boost, or no boost at all. Replacing this part is also far, FAR cheaper than replacing the entire turbo unit 4. The car's computer controls the actuator, and the actuator control the wastegate. Sometimes, the nuts holding the actuator's arm in place comes loose, resulting in a fully opened wastegate, meaning no boost will be produced. Solution, tighten the nuts; or, if they are missing, simply purchase new nuts and tighten the arm Please note, this info applies for all the Prince THP engines (i.e the 1.6 turbos found in the 207, 308 and RCZ) Also, if the "Depollution Error" is produced, you can clear this fault by disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes IMMEDIATELY after switching the car off. If the error returns then we know that some action needs to be taken If anyone want more info about this or would like details on replacing the parts mentioned, and/or part numbers please don't hesitate to contact me. If you have any other questions I will try my best to help out To Peugeot: PLEASE start getting your act together. As a company you have had a bad after-sales service reputation for very long, and it is because of this that many people are told NOT to buy Peugeot cars. A very important thing to remember for ALL businesses is that it's easier to keep a customer than to make a new one. If so many people are having issues with your after-sales service then it really is saying something; and those customers will only be eager to pass on the info to others. Also, it is unacceptable that in the event of major parts such as a turbo kit having to be replace that you do not have any of these units in stock. You should, AT THE VERY LEAST, keep 2 or 3 of such major components in stock. That way, customers would not have the added frustration of having to wait to have their car repaired. My reason for this post is to inform both customers and Peugeot of problems and possible solutions; and to give you as a company issues from my perspective as a customer. If you simply pay attention to this info you will start having a much better service record and will save both the customers and yourself huge amounts of time and money.

which 207 have u got? ive got the 207 RC LeMans which came with Bridgestone Potenzas 205/45/ R17 ...FANTASTIC tyres which gave the 207 superb handling. however, when it cam time to change tyres, peugeot did not have these tyres. which i find ridiculous to be honest. instead, they offered me Michelin tyres. BUT when they wanted to get them, they were out of stock. So instead I had to go and hunt down for the tyres. Eventually I found some really nice Pirelli P-Zero Nero 205/40/ R17 (note they have a slightly lower profile to the original bridgestones) for AED.555 each. also, VERY good tyres and in some markets the 207 is actually factory fitted with the 205/45/ R17 versions of these.

how does the car switch off? does it simply go off or does it sound like its choking?

if it is possible that the windows can still move downwards, keep the buttons in until it reaches the bottom, and then keep buttons pressed for 10 seconds; this will reset the control module. if u cant do that, u can try the wd40 method. but what happens when u press the buttons? does the window move at all, do u hear the motor working?