chandrakumar

It looks mixture of beetle and bmw grill.

Hybrid or mix breed lol.

Let the proper mechanic diagnose it nicely following items for leak. Brake booster, brake master cylinder, brake pistons, brake caliper, brake fluid reservoir tank, brake line etc.

If still none found, then change the brake pad if its less than half. In some rare cases if brake pad is low and suppressing caliper too much that lower down the brake fluid level sensor to scream these message.

Normally spark plug should be changed at every 40k kms per service manual. But if you or previous owner got special long life type, then it depends on type of spark plug. Some last 60k some last 100k even.

AC vent must be blocked from internal blockage. You cant replace vent like that. You have to open the dash under neath and reach to duct to see what is blocking.

You just be having lght one??????

Read below, sourced from google. Same problem hapen with my sis in law rav 4.

seems to be a failed switch(vsv). seem to be common on rav4's. Toyota went ford quality on that switch. Here's 1 of a few fr a fellow tech.

1996 Toyota RAV4

Engine: 2.0 L / 4 cyl / Gas / DOHC

Fuel: Fuel Injection

Ignition: Distributorless

Trans: 4-speed Automatic Transaxle (Electronic)

Mileage: 164,000 mi

Emissions: OBD-II Compliant

VIN: JT3GP10V2W

Symptoms: MIL Lamp on

Occurs: Always

More Info: Test results included below

_______________________ CLOSED W/FIX _______________________

This one stomped me with all the vsv valves I have

replaced in the pass. It did show a little high on

resistance but the vacuum that was coming out is the same

as the new one. I did install a new vsv valve and the

moniters did run and no more ck engine lights.

_____________________ ORIGINAL MESSAGE _____________________

This car has the egr PO401 in it. I ck the egr with hand

held vaccum pump and it killed the engine. Ck for vacuum at

the egr valve and there wasn't any, ck and replaced

transducer. Now I have 20in of vaccum at egr valve, and the

egr valve is opening. I cleared the codes, test drove and

it sets a pending code quick. I went ahead and remove the

valve and all passages are open. You give it part throttle

and the valve opens, put in gear and load the engine and it

opens. You can see the map and o2 switch when you pull the

valve open a little. This is the first time I haven't been

able to fix a PO401 code on any car. I have ck for

bulletins in alldata, but nothing on egr valve. Its

something I am over looking and maybe you guys have run

across this before.

I hope thermostat is not at H after driving fo few minutes, that means car is damn HOT. If it resting thru out at H, then its a faulty gauge at dashboard and its a little expensive fix to change the instrument cluster. See in shj if someone can repair that.

Before that check all fuses and relay too.

Toyota Al futtaim uses Total 20w50 its not expensive oil......

You can get Mobil 1 (its expensive than total) and 100000% better than al futtaim oil.

Ok dear, sorry for your troubles. Lets do one step at a time.

Get a good electrician and ask him to check the wiring and trace where did short circuit happened. As due to this electrical short circuit AC fan must have switched off and car overheated and thrown all the coolant out of expansion bottle.

Your best bet to start with Engine main harness as you said all fuses are burnt so i am sure main wiring caught some earthing and starting blowing up all the fuses. Which is quiet weird and rare to see in Toyota's, they are good reliable car. Have you got some electrical job from aftermarket guys????? like music system, central lock, battery change or anything that involve fiddling with electrical wiring. Probably that guy you is the main root cause behind all this disaster.

Good luck dude.

You have to remove the car steering wheel fully and dismantle it piece by piece to reach to ignition. Little tricky job, good luck.

On 2005 year onward model you can fold (flat) / remove all the rear seats but not the front passenger seat. If this is a problem, you can fit most things between the front seats.

The seats are initially difficult to remove but you'll develop the knack for it. Always start by removing the head restraint and sliding forwards the seat in front.

Enjoy your new car!

Front seat has 12mm bolt at the base that can be easily removed within 10 mins for whole dismantling the seat.

I really doubt you can do that, if you pull the fuse then whole SRS system will be down and might record fault or warning light in computer ECU. For clearing which you need OBD scanner.

Check with dealer if they can help you with something more creative and doable stuff that works. Good luck mate.

Sheikh: be more friendly dude. Take it easy, take a chill pill.

Better change, welding will fix the crack but it might unbalance the car axle and it also might fail in RTA passing test.

It may not be brae, it may be your brake booster. get those checked first this time.

Get to puncture shop, you must have very minor puncture if not valve must be leaking ask that guy to change the valve.

Nope not at all, you must have hit some big stone or jumped foot path causing this. Its a big car so you must not have felt it as much you will feel in small car.

Check the engine oil if it turn milky with coolant mixing the you have internal leak and then engine head gasket need to be change.

Its a self test time, you cant do anything about it. If it increase it means it must be taking time in self testing the Air bag. Keep an eye if it throw some error or light keeps on full time then fault will be recorded in system and you can read it thru computer diagnostic and do the needful. Its quite early to react.

have you changed the stock suspension?