Barry

Here is the official Mitsubishi service schedule, it is up to you to make sure the garage carries out the necessary work and no unnecessary work. The following maintenance intervals are based on the assumption of a vehicle which works under normal conditions, meaning, if you are a rally driver and do the Paris-Dakar every Monday, you may want to have an other maintenance plan… One more thing we assume is that you are going to do most of the work yourself, that will reduce the maintenance cost and you will know your Pajero much better. Weekly basis: Check engine oil level Check transmission oil level Check clutch and brakes fluid level Check power steering fluid level Check tires visually for defects and check their pressures. Check engine coolant level Check the battery for corrosion Once a year or 10,000 km: Change engine’s oil and filter Replace air filter if used in dusty area Inspect coolant hoses Inspect brake hoses Inspect brakes – discs and pads, replace if necessary. Rotate tires Inspect ball joints and steering components for grease leaks Inspect drive shafts boot for tears and grease leaks Grease the propeller shafts joints. Adjust the valves (diesel engines only) Check the differential oil level Check the transfer oil level Check the engine driving belt – replace if needed (dry/cracked) Inspect fuel system 3.2 diesel engine - check upper timing guide Every 2 years or 25,000 km (which ever comes first): Change automatic transmission lubricate and filter (2) Change manual transmission lubricate. (3) Change transfer oil (4) Change differentials oil (5) Drain, wash and refill the cooling system (with new coolant) Inspect spark plug cables Replace air filter Every 5 years or 100,000 km (which ever comes first): Replace timing belt (if any) Replace spark plugs Replace spark plugs cables The above maintenance plan is for a normal/light use. If you drive a lot under severe conditions, you may want to reduce that intervals by half. (1) Choosing the right engine oil viscosity depends on the weather in your area. For most areas, SAE 15W-40 will do the job (fits temp range from 0C to 50C), if you live in area where the temp is below 0, then you may consider SAE 10W-30, fits -20C to 40C or SAE SW-30 which works from -35 to 15C Engine oil capacity: V6 petrol engine: 4.9 liters. 2.8L diesel: 7.5 liters 3.2L diesel: NM/NP: 7.5L NS/NT: 9.8L (2) Auto transmission fuild: Capacity: NL: 8.5L, NM/NP 9.3L, NS: 9.7L, NT:10.9L Type: NL: Dexron 2 NM, NP, NS, NT: Diamond ATF SP 3 or equivalent. (3) Manual transmission fluid: 3.2liters of SAE 80/90W GL-5 gear lubricant (4) Transfer case oil: 2.8 liters of 75W-85W GL-4 gear oil (5) Differential lubricant: Standard: SAE 80/90W GL-5 gear oil Limited Slip: LS 90 (usually you will have a sticker on the diff if you have the LSD one) Capacity: Front: 1.2 liters Rear: 1.6 liters Please note that Mitsubishi recommended an oil change every 10,000 Kms. Don't let any garage scam you with 3k, 5k etc oil changes. Read the truth here,

Did I mention there's a solar powered welder in the trailer? If we can find it, we can fit it.

The apocalypse has come. The majority of the population has died. It's a dog eat dog world. What will you drive? Some things to consider, easy to find go anywhere ability Swapability of parts from other vehicles Simple, no need for 10 ecus Tough big enough to carry supplies Im going for a modified Lada Niva.

Nice car, nice review, but the thought of spending over 100k on a Honda that isn't a NSX makes my eyes water. What made you choose this over a RWD or AWD V8?

Pick a car, pick an engine. What is your dream engine swap and why?

Blob? The sierra was a blob but the fox body is classic 80s boxy style. Look at the ferraris and Lamborghinis from then, even the jap stuff like Silvia's etc, all sharp angular lines. A perfectly natural evolution for the time period. When you look at the other Fords from that time, mk2 Fiesta, mk3 escort, mk5 cortina, it fits right in as a range topper. The fox body is the car the XR3 should have been. The Gartrac G3 was the only thing that came close.

Never liked mustangs until I moved to uae but they’ve grown on me. I love a nice fox body.

I’m really in love with this right now, the nixie watch. It uses mini tubes to create a digital display.

Nice review Sri. This is the kind of thing I like to read. If someone is going to the desert they’re more likely to buy a car like this than a brand new patrol. Proper useful information.

I heard something about impound fees. It will all come out when detained in Dubai get on the case.

British tourist hits every speed camera on Sheikh Zayed Road in a rented Lamborghini Huracan and racks up 175,000 dhs in fines. https://www.bbc.com/news/world-middle-east-45085991?ns_source=twitter&ns_mchannel=social&ns_campaign=bbcnews&ocid=socialflow_twitter

Been watching this YouTube channel for a while, Garage 54. It’s an old Russian mechanic doing all sorts of crazy things, mainly in old Ladas. Nice break from the seriousness of life.

Pretty big hole in that donut.

I don’t think Lars deserves all the hate he gets. He was doing the right thing trying to protect artists rights. Dr Dre was also involved in the Napster case but you never see anyone giving him abuse over it. Have you seen mission to lars? It’s not the best piece of cinema ever produced but worth a watch for fans.

He didn’t flush it then, he just washed the inside of the case. To do a proper flush, you need to remove the oil cooler pipes and hook them up to a flushing machine with the transmission running. The purpose of a flush, when you change the oil you’re only changing half the oil. A lot of it stays inside the torque converter, pump, valves etc. so if you put in new oil it’s automatically contaminated as soon as you start the engine and it mixes with the remaining old oil. When you flush with a flushing machine, it pumps fresh oil through everything and cleans it properly. Dexol in Al Quoz are the best auto transmission specialists I’ve worked with in UAE. Maybe worth speaking to them.

Check what the oil is like. If it’s dirty, might be worth changing it. After that, you need to examine the pump and rack. Also worth having a look at the ball joints on the ends of the rack, sometimes the grease can come out if the boots split then they seize up.

Did you flush it or just change the oil? If you just changed the oil, it would help to change it again in another few thousand k to get the rest of the crap out.

Those bearings look nasty. Would be worth having a look inside the oil pump.

Not his first transplant either. He received a kidney years ago and had to get it replaced when it failed. And yes, total legend. There’s no BS with him.

Color of the CEL (Check Engine Light) has no bearing on the seriousness of a fault. The majority of vehicles have an orange light and could mean anything from your air filter is dirty to your engine is only running on 2 cylinders. Red lights are used for crucial systems like brakes, oil pressure, coolant temperature and if you see a red light you must stop and investigate. My advice is to pull into any garage and get them to read the codes then post them here and we can advise further.

I love old Peugeot’s. Spent a good part of my childhood in the back of 504 pickups but this is the first time I’ve seen racing versions. https://youtu.be/xbdqyIVf0lI