Javier M

So this is basically a lease with an option to buy. They just put a different name.. 🤣 They will make a lot of money, they just want you to keep paying them that monthly payment and at the end if you did not exceed the mileage agreed you can exchange it for another car or buy the car. At the end they will get more money from you. Plus you must maintain it with them.

Hopefully this will alleviate some traffic 🤔

I think this will fit very nicely to the pajero. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PFS2T2V/ref=twister_B07PK8FN7G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I think you mean this one: https://www.amazon.com/Superior-58-0550B-Sport-Steering-Wheel/dp/B00029KA7C/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=steering+wheel+wrap&qid=1563968655&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Just be careful not to smell too much of it or else..... TbksUS7.mp4

They also sell stickers (I'm not sure how long they will last though) https://www.amazon.com/Tire-Stickers-White-Wall-Yourself/dp/B01N10IA0Z/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2ZDNZ0Q6TGLVA&keywords=white+wall+tire+paint&qid=1563862344&s=gateway&sprefix=white+wall+tire+%2Caps%2C361&sr=8-10 https://www.amazon.com/Port-wall-White-Portawall-Insert/dp/B07T2VNR22/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?keywords=white+wall+tire+paint+roller&qid=1563862523&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr2 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Anvil-Car-Motorcycle-White-Wall-Tyre-Tire-Paint-250ml-Cruiser-Hot-Rod/253912781831?epid=9024424994&hash=item3b1e619407:g:UigAAOSw4DJdNoYN&vxp=mtr https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tyre-Whitewall-Machine-Redwall-Paint-Roller-Applicator-8mm-Paint-Bottle-New/172986713641?hash=item2846cfc629:g:E0AAAOSwal5YIlUn&vxp=mtr

remember to use the delicate skin foam, you don't want to irritate the windshield.

I had a similar issue when I replaced the salik tag for the jeep. I took it to grand service station for steam washing and asked the guys if they can remove it, they did a good job, I don't know what they did, but maybe you can do the same on the next washing.

They did, I am sure they had to, there was no space with the 6.2 L engine at the back.

2020 CHEVROLET CORVETTE STINGRAY PRELIMARY SPECIFICATIONS ENGINE Type: LT2 6.2L V8 VVT with direct injection and Active Fuel Management (cylinder deactivation) Bore & stroke (in / mm): 4.06 x 3.62 / 103.25 x 92 Block Material: A319-T7 cast aluminum with cast-in iron cylinder liners and nodular main bearing caps Oiling System: Dry sump-type (7.5-qt. capacity); includes oil-spray piston cooling Oil Type: Dexos 2 0W40 synthetic Cylinder Head Material: 319-T7 cast aluminum Combustion Chamber volume: 59cc Compression Ratio: 11.5:1 Valvetrain: Overhead valve, two valves per cylinder; dual-equal variable valve timing Valve Size (in / mm): 2.13 / 54 hollow (intake) & 1.59 / 40.4 sodium filled (exhaust) Fuel Delivery: Direct injection with Active Fuel Management: Max pressure: 2,175 psi (15 Mpa / 150 bar) Firing Order: 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 (all cylinders); 1-7-6-4 (with deactivation) Throttle body: 87mm single bore (electronic) ECU: GM E99 (32-bit processing) Horsepower (hp / kW @ rpm): SAE-certified to 495 / 369 @ 6450 rpm (with performance exhaust) Torque (lb.-ft./ Nm @ rpm): SAE-certified to 470 / 637 @ 5150 rpm (with performance exhaust) TRANSMISSION & AXLE Type: M1L 8-speed dual clutch (DCT) CHASSIS & SUSPENSION Front Suspension: Short/long arm (SLA) double wishbone, forged aluminum upper and cast aluminum L-shape lower control arms; monotube shock absorbers (46mm /); Magnetic Selective Ride Control 4.0 available on Z51. Adjustable front lift with memory is available Rear Suspension: Short/long arm (SLA) double wishbone, forged aluminum upper and cast aluminum L-shape lower control arms; direct-acting stabilizer bar; monotube shock absorbers (46mm); Magnetic Selective Ride Control 4.0 available with Z51 Steering Type: Bosch/ZF variable-ratio rack-and-pinion with electric power assist; includes Active Steer Stops with available Magnetic Ride Control 4.0 Steering ratio: 15.7:1 Turning Circle (ft. / m): 11.6 m (std.) , 11.1 m (with FE4 Magnetic Ride Control) Brake Type: Front and rear E-boost-assisted discs with Brembo four-piston/two-piece front calipers and four-piston/monobloc rear calipers With Z51 – Front and rear E-boost-assisted discs with Brembo four-piston monobloc caliper at front and rear Brake Rotor Size (in / mm): Front: 12.6 x 1.18 (321 x 30) , Front: 13.3 x 1.18 (345 x 30) – with Z51, Rear: 13.6 x 1.02 (339 x 26), Rear: 13.8 x 1.06 (350 x 27) – with Z5 Wheel Size: Front: 19-inch x 8.5-inch (w/5 x 120mm bolt pattern) , Rear: 20-inch x 11-inch (w/5 x 120mm bolt pattern) Tire Type and Size: Stingray: Michelin Pilot Sport ALS, Stingray with Z51: Michelin Pilot Sport 4S, Front: 245/35ZR19, Rear: 305/30ZR20 ^Do not use summer-only tires in winter conditions, as it would adversely affect vehicle safety, performance and durability. Use only GM-approved tire and wheel combinations. Unapproved combinations my change the vehicle’s performance characteristics. For important tire and wheel information, go to: my.chevrolet.com/learn/tires/ or see your dealer. EXTERIOR DIMENSIONS Wheelbase (in. / mm): 107.2 / 2722 Overall Length (in. / mm): 182.3/ 4630 Overall Width (in. / mm): 76.1 / 1934 Overall Height (in. / mm): 48.6 / 1234 Track (in. / mm): (front) 64.9 / 1648 , (rear) 62.4 / 1586 INTERIOR DIMENSIONS Headroom (in. / mm): 37.9 / 962 Legroom (in. / mm): 42.8 / 1086 Shoulder Room (in. / mm): 54.4 / 1381 Hip Room (in. / mm): 52.0 / 1321 WEIGHTS & CAPACITIES Dry Weight (lb. / kg): 3366 / 1530 Cargo Volume (cu. ft. / L)^: 12.6 / 356.8 ^Cargo and load capacity limited by weight and distribution.

Why not doing the front too? that way it will even out the ground clearance for front and back.

Hi guys I will miss this one I don't feel well and prefer to stay home. Sorry for the last minute change

I don't think the stiffness will go away, this comes with thicker springs 🤔

I have worked in automotive manufacturing and all manufacturers would sell the parts to the car companies so they would just put them in a box that said Nissan, Toyota, Mitsubishi, etc. but the manufacturers would also sell them as other brands but it was exactly the same part inside. With the only exception that the "genuine brand" part would sell twice as expensive. Granted, there are quality standards that "some" car companies would require to the manufactures, but once that is set they would have the same production standards to all products.

2900-3100 seems excessive for a simple oil change, 80km doesn't seem to be mayor service (besides the possible brake pads replacement) but even on the first month of the service contract they are charging you almost the same amount. Seems they are forcing you to take the service contract. I guess you'd have to go with the contract if you want to keep the warranty. If it's off the warranty I would say take it somewhere else. It's just not worth it. I've also heard from some friends the Toyota maintenance prices are a ripoff. I would like to hear from Toyota owners here. land-cruiser-prado-150-series.pdf

This is so confusing 😩

Its not allowed to be imported because there are not many parts in those markets for the montero/pajeros LOL but I get why they changed the name to montero if I was back home I would never buy something called Pajero

I don't think so, specially dragon mart bargains.

I would not buy only based on the type of LED. A 5D would not necessarily be better than a 3D. You need to look into the Lumens delivered per watt used and the color temperature, I would get something with a color temperature between 5000K to 6500K. Less than 2000K: gives off a dim glow of light, similar to what you might find from candlelight; best for low-light areas where ambient illumination is welcomed 2000K-3000K: gives off a soft white glow, often yellow in appearance; best for living rooms, dining rooms, bedrooms and outdoor spaces 3100K-4500K: gives off a bright amount of white light; best for kitchens, offices, work spaces and vanities where task lighting is needed 4600K-6500K: gives off a bright amount of blue-white light, similar to that of daylight; best for display areas and work environments where very bright illumination is needed 6500K and up: gives off a bright bluish hue of light, often found in commercial locations; best for bright task lighting

Today I would like to talk to you guys about the different types of extinguishers that are out there to stop a fire in your car. I dont think is mandatory for companies here to train their employees on how to put out fires, back home it is mandatory to go through training with the fire department. First, I would like to explain the elements of fire, for some of us this might be basic but there are still some people that may not be aware of what is required for a fire to start. For a fire to start it needs 3 things: Heat: A heat source is responsible for the initial ignition of fire, and is also needed to maintain the fire and enable it to spread. Heat allows fire to spread by drying out and preheating nearby fuel and warming surrounding air. Fuel: A fire needs a fuel source in order to burn. The fuel source can be anything that is flammable, such as wood, paper, plastic, fabric, or chemicals. Once the fuel element of the fire triangle is removed, the fire will go out. Oxygen: Air contains about 21 percent oxygen, and most fires require at least 16 percent oxygen content to burn. Oxygen supports the chemical processes that occur during fire. When fuel burns, it reacts with oxygen from the surrounding air, releasing heat and generating combustion products (gases, smoke, embers, etc.). This process is known as oxidation. If you remove any of these elements you will not have fire. Types of Fire Class A fires: These are started by combustible and flammable materials, such as wood, paper, trash or plastics. If a car has any of this material inside, it runs the risk of a class A fire. Class B fires: are started by a flammable liquid or gas. This includes sources such as gasoline and oils with petroleum, as well as propane and butane. A class B fire is one of the most common in cars. Class C fires: The fuel sources for these are typically electrical, such as faulty wiring. Again, this can certainly take place in a car, as there are many electrical components. An electrical fault in your vehicle can lead to a class C fire. Class D fires: These flames are started by a combustible metal, such as magnesium or potassium. A class D fire is generally not something you have to worry about taking place in a car. It is recommended to have in your car an ABC type extinguisher because, as the name implies, it will work on the fires that are most likely to take place in a car, classes A, B, and C. How to put out a fire with a conventional fire extinguisher. Always secure the fire extinguisher It is always important to have your car extinguisher secured via a bracket or other safety mechanism. Keep in mind that if it is not properly secured and you crash or roll over you will have big and heavy object hitting your head. A very inexpensive way to secure it would be to use velcro and industrial adhesive to hold the extinguisher in place Non conventional fire extinguishers

This is the best. What works for me is to drink lots of cold water ONLY. I have tried many things like energy drinks or caffeine but they messed me up. Maybe because I never drink coffee or things like that, the only caffeine I drink is from the occasional soft drink.

I would just take it to a shop to be checked, in the long run it saves you so much headaches. There is no price for my peace of mind. Before I buy a used car I like to look at the statistics of failure rate of important components like the transmission, engine or electricals. I like to use sites like carcompliants.com where I can see the complains for each model and helps me determine the clunkers.