treks

The weight of the engine acts on the springs and shocks anyway, no matter how the torsion bars are tensioned. Maybe you should find out where the car was fixed and go and ask the people there what they found?

Sometimes, and depending on the fault, some TDC's will reset automatically when the ECU senses that the fault is no longer present, such as the fault you created when you disconnected vacuum lines. As @Barry said, find a decent mechanic that can do a proper scan of the car's fault memory, because sometimes, some faults can be stored as "pending" codes that need to be registered by the ECU for a set number of times before a CEL light will come on.

This particular Rolls is probably the most boring hearse ever designed. But I suppose that for as long as there are rich people who have a need for status symbols, there will be cars like this on the road.

I'm not sure what to think, because in bad light, this thing could be mistaken for any number of BMW or Audi models. In fact, I have never believed that these types of vehicles can be called "off-road vehicles", since none of the manufacturers of these types of vehicles have any idea of what goes into an off-road vehicle. To my mind, they should all stick to what they do best- build high end, high performance, two seater super cars.

I would not advise using thinners, because it will almost certainly destroy the finish on the dashboard. What I once did was stick a couple of layers of newspaper over the dashboard for a couple of weeks- it looked horrible but it soaked up the petroleum-based volatiles as they evaporated. If this works and you want to use something to protect your dashboard, use it sparingly, and not often or you might end up with the same issue again.

Millions of people use cockpit sprays without ever having any sort of problem, but many people also use it wrong. The best way to use this stuff is to spray a bit onto a micro-fiber cloth first, and then to wipe the surface with the cloth, thus transferring the spray onto the surface in a very thin layer. Of course, removing old layers of the stuff regularly is also a good thing, but in my experience, many people think that if a thin layer is good, plastering it on is ten times better...

If you have been using Cockpit spray and leather conditioner there is nothing you can do except to stop using it, and to wait for all the volatiles to evaporate from the residue on the dashboard and seats.

One could say "What were these idiots thinking?", but perhaps one should say that "Idiots generally don't think".

I have found that some of the gunk people spray on their seats and dashboards to make them look "nice and shiny" contains volatiles that stick to interior glass surfaces when the stuff evaporates. No matter how many times you remove it, the the oily film will reappear the next time the car interior gets hot, so if you are using any type of interior spray, stop using it and see what happens. If this is what is causing the problem, it will go away by itself eventually, but in the meantime, try covering the dashboard with some impermeable material that will stop the volatile material from getting onto the inside of the windscreen. In one case I remember, my client had to replace the dashboard because the previous owner of the car had used so much dashboard spray over a long period that the entire foam structure had become saturated with the stuff.

I usually do the opposite. I usually disable the radios on my cars because to me a radio is a distraction and especially when someone in the car wants to listen to blaring music. In fact, I have never has a working radio in any of my cars for the last few decades.

...and if you dig a little deeper, you will find that all of these so-called Toyota-approved "accessories" are rip-offs of genuine Toyota parts made in China by unskilled laborers.

Fusion, you say Gaurav? Perhaps, but I think you left the "con" part out.

An excellent example of how a silk purse can be turned into a pig's ear...

The cross-hatch pattern actually does two things- As Barry correctly points out, the score marks hold a small quantity of oil to lubricate the rings, but this same quantity of oil also serves as an additional seal to help contain the combustion pressure. However, the angle at which the hatching occurs on the cylinder wall is very important- too small and the oil is scraped off by the rings, and too big, the combustion pressure pushes the oil reserve out past the rings. Also important is the depth of the hatching, and by the looks of it, the hatching in the picture of the cylinder that @Barry posted is a little on the deep side, unless it just looks that way because of the lighting angle.

How come Admin has only two and a half stars?

Solar panels work with UV light, so if the parking garage is lit with fluorescent lighting, the battery conditioner will work because fluorescent lights emit reasonable amounts of UV light.

It's never a good idea to disconnect a battery for any length of time, since the ECU could lose its Keep Alive Memory. The best thing to do is to connect an intelligent trickle charger to keep the battery fully charged if you are going to be away for along time.

You are joking, right?

To my mind, there is very little point in making the software available to millions of mechanics who have no idea how the basics on most cars work. Take the USA for instance- in that country, there are no standardized training modules available, so if someone wants to be mechanic there, the best that person can hope for is to be taught what the mechanics in the shop know, which in my experience is often woefully inadequate. The only standardized thing is the written multi-choice exams, with no practical testing of a candidate's knowledge/skills/insights involved. There are other countries where the training of mechanics is even more inadequate, so I can't see the advantages of making dealer-grade software available to mechanics who are more skilled at rolling in their own dung than they are at diagnosing everyday problems. And don't get me started on mechanics who don't know what the the CAN bus system is, what it does, and why it is so difficult to find issues in the system, even with dealer grade software/equipment.

This must be the most ill-conceived car design ever...

You really need to have a real mechanic look at your car. Worn ball joints will often do what you describe, but they are not always noisy, and replacing the shocks won't fix the problem, which is something some mechanics in the UAE should recognize.

He actually meant "ball" joints, which are the gizmos that connect the wheel hub (aka steering knuckle) to the control arms.

You and me, maybe.

Doing it yourself is probably the best way to go, and since it is noisy already, you may as well go the whole hog and replace everything that can be replaced.

In my experience it's never a good idea to only replace some parts, and especially bearings. If as @Barry says, it ain't broke, don't replace anything unless you replace everything, and even then there is no guarantee that the gearbox won't be noisy.