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About Byron

  • Rank
    Carnity Drifter

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  • Gender
  • Location
  • My Car
    2006 CTS V
  • Designation
  • Expertise
    Avaition mechanic, ase certified dual master auto and diesel mechanic.

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  1. Byron

    Where to find ATE brand fluids?

    I will just order it next week. Went to RAK to have a look around and didn't find any there either. I give in to the postal system, what sucks is that I will pay more for shipping than the fluid is worth in the end. -Byron
  2. Byron

    Where to find ATE brand fluids?

    Both of those places don't sell any oil, brake fluid etc. They sent me to Sharjah, and apparently nobody has ever heard of brake fluid, clutch fluid, brake oil, dot 4 high temp or any combination of the above including one place insisting I was mistaken in thinking my brake fluid should ever be changed. Tazweed nope, Golden car nope, Ramy doesn't even sell it. Someone here sell it. The hunt continues. Please gents unless you actually know where to get it, please don't send me on a wild goose chase. I wasted an entire morning driving in circles. I don't want to ship it from the US or Germany if I don't need to. -Byron
  3. Byron

    Where to find ATE brand fluids?

    Thank you Gaurav, But do they sell the ATE 200 fluid? I guess I will figure out tomorrow morning. Ill call Ramy in deira and the other shop in the morning. I have doubts as Tazweed doesn't have a functional website and ramy has everything needed for at 4x4, but nothing for my car. -Byron
  4. Byron

    Where to find ATE brand fluids?

    Any particular sport parts shop? I've been through about 30 so far and have yet to locate any. Can you please link me to where you have personally found it? -Byron
  5. So I have had a bit of a setback, Clutch went out, very happy to report that 90% of the vibration from the gear box was due to failed motor mounts. For those who are interested, in my particular car there is a distinct relationship between motor mount height, and trans mount height. Think of it as a triangle. If the front is too low, the rear (Trans) will be too high. The design of the drive shaft allows some leeway in this relationship as its a dual CV carrier bearing style, however if ........ brand mounts are used, then ........ trans mount should be used. As the motor mounts melted, the angle of the transmission became high and it left its 1 degree tolerance from true and it started vibrating bad. The old mounts looked perfect installed, and honestly I scored a good deal on the mounts from a friend in the US, so I was changing them just because I had new ones. Good thing I am paranoid. The new mounts are designed to work with a stock transmission mount. Same friend had one in his stock pile so he is shipping it, and aramex should deliver a box full of goodness next week. The previous mounts, which were 60a durometer polyurethane melted. Stuff happens so I put in some UMI mounts and if they ever melt (1/4" steel) its time to leave Dubai forever, because everything else will melt too.. While at it I put in an ACT T1S-G02 Twin disc clutch and a Tilton 6000 series throw out bearing. Also mounted my ported and beautifully painted FAST 92 Intake manifold, and because The heat socks over my spark plug wires wasn't holding up well I went ahead and installed a set of Acell Ceramic wires. Should be bulletproof. The stock clutch in a 2006 Cadillac CTS-V is a 74 lb monster dual mass fly wheel. I had replaced that for a 54 lb rotating mass LS7 setup. The ACT T1S-G02 tips the scales at 36 lbs and the engine is VERY rev happy all the way to redline. It also makes for really easy up and down shifts and rev matching. All in all, it has a bit of neutral noise, and the throw out bearing which I highlight below is the only thing keeping it from being perfect and light clutch pedal. I also upgraded the stock bushing with a bronze bushing that eliminated absolutely all the slop in my hurst shifter. I still have a 1/4" high in my drive line(1/2 degree from true but well within tolerance) so it makes some NVH into the cabin, but when my stock mount arrives (I have an after market one that was paired to the engine mounts) it will be flawless and vibration free. There is no danger with that little bit off, but I am a stickler for details so I'm taking care of it while I am able. Problem I am having now is the Tilton 6000 series uses an elastomer type of seal (cheap to replace if it goes wonky) but the good brake fluid I can find here, Redline RL100 seems to have an additive that makes the seal swell a bit, which increases pedal effort substantially. Its not the master, as I am running a 3/4" bore Wilwood, All GM hydraulics have been purged from the car. With the previous 2 clutches in the car the Redline RL100 always caused a stiffer pedal, but seemed to last longer. For those unfamiliar with the nightmare that is GM hydraulics, Ill be happy to explain via PM, but to sum it up get rid of it and go full after market. Your wallet won't be happy, but your mechanic will be. I was bleeding the hydraulics about every 3 weeks like clockwork due to cooked fluid. Now its never going to happen again as everything is stainless steel race quality hardware, lines, master cylinder and throw out bearing with the paticular clutch I choose are all fully end user(me) serviceable. The throw out bearing is rebuild able, as is the clutch. So I am looking specifically for ATE 200 Dot4. Motul contains the same additives that Redline RL100 does, so I cannot use the RBF 660 which is quite common, but the ADNOC etc Dot 4 isn't very good for the temps the throw out bearing operates at. I am as per Tilton instructions limited to 550f or lower rated fluids in general as they don't have the additive to swell the seals. Any ideas on where to find some? PS to the MODS, I do watermark my photos as well as image protect them, I hope this won't bother anyone. There is a link to my personal instagram on the water mark. It is unaffiliated with anyone at all except me, as I have recently just got done dealing with someone who has stolen my photos and used them for commercial interests I had to take precautions. If it bothers anyone I will not post pics, but as it's my personal account, I don't see the harm, but as they will eventually be tied to a business endeavor in the states protection is paramount. The image links are to my smugmug account, which is also my personal and unaffiliated with anyone but me image hosting account. Feel free to browse at some of my previous mods I know its a long winded way to ask where to get good brake fluid, but its been a busy week Saluki Motorsports did a bang up job on the maintenance as I have been swamped this week, they did the install for me. Between starting my masters in aeronautics, clutch failure and planning for paint and interior work, plus a potential startup in the states soon I have been a busy guy. Hope you enjoy the pics. -Byron
  6. That's not a bad's in Kazakhstan so should take her a good long while to go visit and come back. 😁 I like your thinking. -Byron
  7. Ultimately I'm going to be throwing an LSA on it, it's why I'm building to take 500-600. I can source a tr6060 with adapter, but then I'm off in fabrication land. Exactly where I don't want to be. Looking around at RPM transmissions I can order everything when I'm back stateside this Dec and just drag it in my suitcase and get er done. Wonder how the wife will take having a transmission in the living room lol. Just need enough cold beverages and my shop manual. -Byron
  8. It already is noisy. I guess in December I'll have everything in hand and just do it myself. Either way I'm ordering a stage 2 rebuild kit. After talking to many places here that either want too much money, or have zero experience and want too much money I'll just get off my duff and get'er done myself. It's not rocket science, a T56 is probably one of the easiest transmissions to rebuild. Only downside side to doing it that way is having to plan around future mods, as I was optimistic about doing it while my car already had the trans out. It's not a terrible thing to drop out later. Maybe 2 hrs tops. It's dead simple. -Byron
  9. Byron

    TV boxes in UAE

    I have a Mac mini that is wonderful. Full on computer, HDMI out and we stream everything on it, and do homework with the kids. Perfect win.
  10. Byron

    good locations to data log.

    I use HP Tuners Pro. Rolling road? is that slang for Dyno? Or he has a good place in the middle of nowhere? -Byron
  11. I have just shy of 200k kms on the current gear box. New bearings and seals, key ways and blockers may not be a bad idea at this point to continue the longevity of the drive train. Plus I'm almost convinced my input shaft bearing needs to be changed. Is this something that cannot be accomplished safely in Dubai? I would't be surprised given the lack of overall knowledge I see displayed at many of the "Tuning" shops. Its why I don't trust anyone with the tuning of my car here. Then again, sometimes I have also been shocked to find quality service. I try to keep an open mind until I see for myself. -Byron
  12. Any places in Dubai qualified and do good work on manual gear boxes? I'm doing my clutch in a week or two and I want them to have a look at and freshen up the gear box. -Byron
  13. Byron

    good locations to data log.

    Not looking to break any laws. But a solid 1-2-3 gear pull at bouncing off my rev limit is hard to accomplish sometimes...... within the space provided. I'll head that general direction. I usually don't participate in such things, but there is only one good way to test the tune. Unfortunately I need a few miles of uninterrupted space to accomplish that. 🤣 Thanks! -Byron
  14. Byron

    good locations to data log.

    Hi guys, I'm struggling to find good safe spots to run the car at max and get some data logs for my HP tuners to refine my current tune. Any good roads between Dubai and Abu Dhabi with less or no cameras? I need to hit my rev limiter a few times, and I need some space to do so. I'm not drifting or anything crazy, just monitoring my fuel and air ratios etc, and while a dyno tune is good, they don't help tuning for drive-ability. I am in the fine tuning, fuel economy and overall smoothness of the car. I am trying to refine my tune a bit, before final modifications. Any suggestions on locations that would be suitable? Desert roads or remote places where I wont be bothered or bother anyone doing what I need to do to get the data. Maybe in the northern emirates? Any suggestions are most welcome. PM me some pins please! -Byron
  15. Byron

    Hi all.

    Hi guys, Alf over at U-Fix-it garage pointed me towards this place. Looking around a bit and it seems pretty nice. I have an older 2006 CTS-V1 that has been modified a bit. Mostly suspension and rear end, long tubes and high flow cats plus tuning. Total list of things changed is KW Var 3 coils, 5 lug conversion, 2010 Camaro SS rotors, poly bushings, poly cradle mounts, new drive shaft, LS7 clutch setup, wilwood master cylinder, long tube headders into high flow cats and a H pipe, new head lights, short throw shifter, I also run a Ford 8.8 irs rear end with DSS axles, tuning, cold air intake tube I built and various other little changes. I do a very good portion of my own manitenance whenever possible. I also own a tech 2 if anyone needs it. -Byron Click the link below to a high quality exhaust video with DB meter reading.