So I have had a bit of a setback,
Clutch went out, very happy to report that 90% of the vibration from the gear box was due to failed motor mounts. For those who are interested, in my particular car there is a distinct relationship between motor mount height, and trans mount height.
Think of it as a triangle. If the front is too low, the rear (Trans) will be too high. The design of the drive shaft allows some leeway in this relationship as its a dual CV carrier bearing style, however if ........ brand mounts are used, then ........ trans mount should be used.
As the motor mounts melted, the angle of the transmission became high and it left its 1 degree tolerance from true and it started vibrating bad. The old mounts looked perfect installed, and honestly I scored a good deal on the mounts from a friend in the US, so I was changing them just because I had new ones. Good thing I am paranoid. The new mounts are designed to work with a stock transmission mount. Same friend had one in his stock pile so he is shipping it, and aramex should deliver a box full of goodness next week.
The previous mounts, which were 60a durometer polyurethane melted. Stuff happens so I put in some UMI mounts and if they ever melt (1/4" steel) its time to leave Dubai forever, because everything else will melt too..
While at it I put in an ACT T1S-G02 Twin disc clutch and a Tilton 6000 series throw out bearing. Also mounted my ported and beautifully painted FAST 92 Intake manifold, and because The heat socks over my spark plug wires wasn't holding up well I went ahead and installed a set of Acell Ceramic wires. Should be bulletproof.
The stock clutch in a 2006 Cadillac CTS-V is a 74 lb monster dual mass fly wheel. I had replaced that for a 54 lb rotating mass LS7 setup. The ACT T1S-G02 tips the scales at 36 lbs and the engine is VERY rev happy all the way to redline. It also makes for really easy up and down shifts and rev matching. All in all, it has a bit of neutral noise, and the throw out bearing which I highlight below is the only thing keeping it from being perfect and light clutch pedal.
I also upgraded the stock bushing with a bronze bushing that eliminated absolutely all the slop in my hurst shifter.
I still have a 1/4" high in my drive line(1/2 degree from true but well within tolerance) so it makes some NVH into the cabin, but when my stock mount arrives (I have an after market one that was paired to the engine mounts) it will be flawless and vibration free. There is no danger with that little bit off, but I am a stickler for details so I'm taking care of it while I am able.
Problem I am having now is the Tilton 6000 series uses an elastomer type of seal (cheap to replace if it goes wonky) but the good brake fluid I can find here, Redline RL100 seems to have an additive that makes the seal swell a bit, which increases pedal effort substantially. Its not the master, as I am running a 3/4" bore Wilwood, All GM hydraulics have been purged from the car.
With the previous 2 clutches in the car the Redline RL100 always caused a stiffer pedal, but seemed to last longer. For those unfamiliar with the nightmare that is GM hydraulics, Ill be happy to explain via PM, but to sum it up get rid of it and go full after market. Your wallet won't be happy, but your mechanic will be. I was bleeding the hydraulics about every 3 weeks like clockwork due to cooked fluid. Now its never going to happen again as everything is stainless steel race quality hardware, lines, master cylinder and throw out bearing with the paticular clutch I choose are all fully end user(me) serviceable. The throw out bearing is rebuild able, as is the clutch.
So I am looking specifically for ATE 200 Dot4.
Motul contains the same additives that Redline RL100 does, so I cannot use the RBF 660 which is quite common, but the ADNOC etc Dot 4 isn't very good for the temps the throw out bearing operates at.
I am as per Tilton instructions limited to 550f or lower rated fluids in general as they don't have the additive to swell the seals.
Any ideas on where to find some?
PS to the MODS, I do watermark my photos as well as image protect them, I hope this won't bother anyone. There is a link to my personal instagram on the water mark. It is unaffiliated with anyone at all except me, as I have recently just got done dealing with someone who has stolen my photos and used them for commercial interests I had to take precautions. If it bothers anyone I will not post pics, but as it's my personal account, I don't see the harm, but as they will eventually be tied to a business endeavor in the states protection is paramount. The image links are to my smugmug account, which is also my personal and unaffiliated with anyone but me image hosting account. Feel free to browse at some of my previous mods
I know its a long winded way to ask where to get good brake fluid, but its been a busy week Saluki Motorsports did a bang up job on the maintenance as I have been swamped this week, they did the install for me. Between starting my masters in aeronautics, clutch failure and planning for paint and interior work, plus a potential startup in the states soon I have been a busy guy.
Hope you enjoy the pics.