treks

...which is fine, as long as you don't use anything that was made in China, including the refrigerant.

As @desertdude says, the best thing is to do is to get an expert second opinion, because just slapping on A/C parts is never a good idea, and especially if the original mechanic was planning on slapping on a used compressor or other used parts.

Using the words "back-lash" and "pinion height" in the same sentence is just going to confuse the OP, who is a kid that seems to think Land Cruisers are sports cars. Stop it, please.

Why would anyone want to do burnouts with a Land Cruiser in the first place?

There was a time when I thought that some cars were better or worse than others, and I even had one or two favorite brands. Now when I look at a car, all I see is an overpriced, over rated, badly designed, unreliable, and mostly dangerous piece of crap. Sadly, some are still more or less so than others.

There will definitely be clearance issues. The only thing to do here is to strip it down, clean out all the gunk from the block, crank, cams, check and if possible hone the cylinders, (if not, re-bore), polish or regrind the crank, and fit new bearings, pistons, rings, and a new timing kit and oil pump. Then, pressure test the cylinder head, check, and re-seat all valves, and replace valve stem seals. Oh, and don't forget the tell the idiot not to do this again just after he pays you for all of the above.

Yes, unfortunately they do exist.

Why would you want to use an alternative oil in the first place?

I have never been a fan of soft-roaders. I once crossed much of the Sahara with a Unimog, and to my mind, there is nothing to beat it in sand.

Which is exactly what you get if you don't keep your wits about you when it comes to lubricants...

@Barry, here is a brief overview of the subject- https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/autotransfluid

I'm not getting involved in this thread, except to say that there is no such thing as a standardized ATF, no matter whether its Dexron 3 or not.

I won't miss the Merc B class. In my expert opinion, this class should never have seen the light of day in the first place.

I can do you one better. I once had a (previously owned) Triumph Chicane that did not have bearings at all. I put about 60 000 or so km on it before it started knocking, which was when I discovered that instead of metal bearings, it had pieces of leather on the con-rods and the mains. These "bearings" had little holes punched into them, presumably to aid in lubrication, but not only that, this engine had the shiniest crank I had ever seen.

I suggest you try and find a shop that can do an exhaust gas analysis, but they must check at least five gasses, with the most important being sulfur. The reason for this is that semi-synthetic oil contains some sulfur in the mineral base oil component of the blend, so if a properly calibrated gas analyzer finds high levels of sulfur in the exhaust gas, you will know that you are burning oil.

The only way that oil can disappear is because it is burnt in the engine if it is not leaking out Remember, all engines are designed to consume some oil, with the amount being burnt depending on the overall condition of the engine, but also on the type and formulation of the oil. Some brands and formulations work better on some engines than others, but the reasons for this is very technical and depends on many factors- from the fuel used to the condition of the spark plugs to the average ambient temperature and even the average humidity. However, changing to synthetic or even semi-synthetic in older engines can do what you describe, since all the molecules in these oils are all of the same size, unlike in regular oil where the biggest molecules can be ten times (or more) bigger than the smallest. In practice, this means that more oil can escape past rings that are no longer perfect, so changing to synthetic oil on an older engine might not always be a good idea. Also bear in mind that you will not always notice if the piston rings are marginally worn. The engine may still perform perfectly and there may not always be visible smoke from the exhaust, but again, if the oil is "thinner" than what the engine is used to, you will notice an increase in the rate at which the oil level drops. Hope this helps.

It would certainly be nice to be able to build stuff like this for a living, but I think that this particular machine is overly complicated, especially given the fact that it does not a proper steering system. I think that for the time and money spent on this thing, the guy could have done a better job. After all what is the point of being able to lift a wheel ten feet of the ground if you cannot steer that wheel, or the wheels that are on the ground? To my mind the whole thing is a bit silly.

Traction control uses the ABS system to work. If the ABS is disabled, the traction control will be too.

Your first mistake is wanting to use a used turbo. Your second mistake is not wanting to buy an engine that is designed to work with forced induction, and fitting that entire engine into the car you are inheriting. Your third mistake is wanting to turbo charge something that does not need it.

Ain't that the truth...

@Barry, you're not really expecting honest answers, are you? People like this base their business model on ripping off once-off customers, but I do hope all Carnity members see and read your comments on the ridiculous quotation this guy issued for a faulty idle control valve.

...especially using diesel oil in old push rod engines!

...and they look like a pile of Lego blocks as well.

This job was done way to cheaply, and as for where it is going... downhill, and very fast, too.

To borrow a phrase- This thing is as ugly as fek.