treks

I agree with @Barry. Control module failure is rare no matter the vehicle, so the next thing to consider is the quality of the input data sent to the various control modules. Then again, with some experience, a good mechanic learns what sensor, switch, or circuit fails most often on any given application, which makes fixing the problem even easier. The other thing people forget is that a list of codes like the one @Barry posted is almost always misleading. In most cases, only the first, or sometimes the first two codes are the real problem- all the others are usually a reaction to the first one or two codes on the list. So if you fix those, all the others go away too, although in some cases, it may take a drive cycle or two before some codes will clear, depending on the nature of the problem and the application.

Anything is possible with Range Rovers simply because their electronics is so ridiculously complex. However, I often get that faults like the one you are showing are caused by loose or corroded battery terminals, and I would guess that something similar was the problem on your Range Rover

Any noise coming from the compressor is bad, but mechanical noises can sometimes be mimicked by a drive belt that is dry, sticky, or damaged. So, if the compressor is damaged and making a noise, it is likely that the system will not work as well as before. It may be worth the trouble to pop around to Barry's garage to let him check out the belt, and/or tensioner pulley(s), especially if the A/C system is working as well as it did before the noise started.

They want your money. There is no need to change the oil if it has not reached the end of its service life, which is usually 10 000 km, or sometimes more. Check your manual for details. However, it is a good idea to just start the engine once a week or so to keep the engine lubricated, but I wont keep the oil in the engine for longer than about two years, even if it had not done its allowable mileage.

Does the A/C still work?

I agree, and not intending any disrespect, but having "Sheikh" alone as a first name is not good enough. The "Sheikh" has to be followed by at least eight or ten other names.

Nothing so mundane. I would like to drive the latest iteration of the Moon Buggy- on the Moon. Seriously though, in my other life I am an astronomer, and driving a Lunar Explorer on the Moon would be the ultimate drive for me.

Doing that would not be wise. You may just be talking to the wrong guy, who might think you are accusing someone of corruption. They may be guilty of corruption, but no official likes to be reminded of it.

Many happy returns, @Rahimdad!

It seems that since @Barry arrived here, nobody on the forum is having car trouble anymore. I knew he was good, but it seems he is working himself out of a job by being this good!

In your case, the slightly wider tyres will have more rolling resistance, which could increase fuel consumption since the more friction there is, the harder the engine has to work to overcome the added friction. However, the increase in fuel consumption in unlikely to be so big that you'd notice it. ETA: NOTE TO ADMIN- I was going to explain about the benefits of increased traction, better braking, and improved steering response that wider tyres bring, but the way the page jumps, making comments disappear in mid sentence is more than I can handle. Can you fix it so the page stops jumping or redirecting, or whatever it is that causes comments to disappear goes away? Or is it just my computer that does this?

Over time the insulating material develops small cracks and weaknesses that are not visible to the naked eye. So, considering that electricity is much like water in that it will always follow the path of least resistance, it becomes easy to see how several tens of thousands of volts will jump through a break in the insulation to the point that is closest to a grounding point- which in this case, is the point on the cylinder head that is closest to a weak spot in the insulating material.

OK, so if the plugs are good, the most likely possibilities are either that the plug leads and suppressors are just old, or that the leads and suppressors are not OEM grade. Plug leads and suppressors do break down after a few years due to the constant heat they are exposed to, but replacing them with old, used leads that are likely just as old won't fix the problem. Best thing to do here is to replace the leads and suppressors with OEM parts.

Are you using the specified spark plugs, and/or are the plugs gapped correctly?

I'm sure I love Pink Floyd more than you do, and although I am glad Nick Mason is OK, I am super grateful that neither David Gilmour, nor Roger Waters are petrol heads. Just think how empty the world of music would be if the best guitar player, and one of the best composers in the world today, were to die in a silly car crash.

You've got it all wrong about the mirror. It is in fact a gun sight that is connected to a machine gun that is located between the tail pipes. If you don't want the machine gun, you can order a missile or grenade launcher instead.

To me it looks a bit like a ride-on lawnmower, but I'll bet money that it will look really good in the boss's parking spot.

I'm pretty sure the OP has the problem fixed by now!

This fault code, as almost any other fault is more likely to involve wiring issues than a defective sensor. Just replacing the sensor without checking and repairing issues like bad connections, high resistances, or intermittent loss of contact in the sensor's control system is like taking candy for a migraine headache. You need to take the car back to the mechanic who replaced the sensor, and demand that he perform continuity, resistance, reference voltage (if applicable), and ground connectivity checks on all the wiring that is associated with the crank position sensor. You will likely find that the issue was not a defective sensor, but a problem in the wiring. Or, as Gaurav suggested, take the car to Barry, who is a competent, professional mechanic who will find, and fix the REAL problem.

I think the real reason why off road clubs don't discuss rollovers is the fact that they don't want to admit that one of their members was driving recklessly. However, accidents will happen, but if a rollover was a real accident, there should not be problem with talking about it.

This is a great idea, and it has become big business in some of countries I've been to in the last ten years or so. I think you are on to a great thing but I can foresee that it might take a while to get off the ground in a country/culture where people don't have a culture of working on their own cars. Just keep pushing the idea- it is bound to take off!

One can only hope that the differentials on these "new" Range Rovers are redesigned. I remember that when a British team tried to cross the Darien Gap in South America a few decades ago, the whole enterprise had to be abandoned midway through because the diffs on their Range Rovers could not handle the terrain.

As far as I know, Mitsubishi never accepted responsibility for this issue anywhere in the world, and many owners were forced to repaint their cars themselves. There is no "fix" for this, except to have the clear coat removed and reapplied by a good body shop.

The only thing(s) I can add to @Barry's advice here is to check the manual for your car to see what will happen if you disconnect the battery. In some cases, the ECU (and/or) other controllers could lose vital memory or programming, which means that you have just made the problem worse. Also, bear in mind that a minimal current drain is normal. The radio and ECU's memories will draw about 30-50 milliamps. This is normal, and will not drain the battery overnight. If the current drain approaches 75-100 milliamps there is a cause for concern, but even this will not drain a healthy battery overnight. Current drains that cause a battery to run down overnight can be traced in the way @Barry described, but these current drains are also heavy enough to be traced by leaving the battery connected. Just figure out a way to attach the multi meter's probes to the battery terminals without disconnecting the terminals, which eliminates the risk of damaging the ECU.

Thanks, @Barry, for the kind words. You are right about our trade becoming redundant- in 20 years time people will go to see their computer engineers when their cars break down, and no longer their mechanics. I also agree about everyday being a school day, and there is no shame in consulting a manual. In fact, we would not be professional mechanics if we did not consult manuals and other technical literature from time to time. As for retirement- I will be retiring in a few years and die an astronomer, which I had been for longer than I had been a mechanic.