desertdude

And people say jap eco boxes are cheap to maintain

My ex boss Peter Gladstone was running the chase vehicle on this, it is what is as mentioned,as I have worked on similar projects myself, let say you can design an obstacle or off road course to make even a rav4 a very mean capable vehicle and vice versa, so yeah mostly marketing hype.

Just stay away from sheeps this time around and you should be ok. As the saying goes, fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on me.

Nah I was just saying how these supercar manufacturers con people into thinking their car is rarer than it actually is this driving up the price. This obviously works because these cars are now selling for twice the original price of a new one. I think a dream fpr all those people who buys cars where resale value is a big factor in their decision. Me personally have never given a rats ass about depreciation or don't think I ever will. As for unicorns, what exactly defines one. Seen plenty of one off cars Ive seen here, for example the famous West Coast built 2 door Range Rover Stormer, which was a drawing of a concept car by LR but then west coast went and built one out of a new Range Rover sport. The whole episode is available to watch om YouTube. Also I saw the original Pimp mobile here. The Stutz Prote. Bet many people don't know what it is or what it even looks like! I'll see if I can find the pic I took and post it later in thr day. Also does a Alpina B7 count? Seen that do. Go to Cars and Drivers garage in Deira and it never fails to have some weird and rare cars in their in for some work. Seen all of them there Lucky for me my buds shop is very close by and I visited it often

Personally I think the LS 430 Ultra was the peak of the non Rolls Royce and Bentley luxury sedans. The 460 not a big fan of the looks inside and out.

Check PM, hope its still relevant

I've had great luck with iCarsoft scanners, they are cheap around 350dhs and they cover the entire manufacturer line up with regular free updates over the net. They are built tough and will interrogate all your systems and give you as many live readings as possible ( no fancy graphs though. For example I get 90 plus live reading just from the engine alone. Has paid for it self 10 times over by now and my two other buddies who also have L322s have access to it. Don't let its looks fool you. It might look dinky with a tiny screen and just a few buttons but it goes through your entire vehicle with a toothcomb. Even reads my headlight ECUs They are built tough and very portable, oil and water proof with a hard rubberized coating, so you can just chuck them in your car dash and not worry about it. Mine is always in the driver side door pockets because I like to plug it in and drive and just mess or observe the readings on various parameters, only thing is it can't program or flash. Now I feel naked if I don't have it with me. Also its also backs up as a standard OBD II reader so you can use it with any car. As you are keeping your Jero long term and you have a L322 I would strongly suggest you buy one for each and keep them onboard. You are welcome to bring your L322 to my place and give my icarsoft a test drive. Only thing I dunno if it will read your older pajero, maybe get in touch with them and make sure. My JLR one goes back to 1999, Didn't work on my 1998 P38. I was lucky they had the one I wanted available on souq so I didn't have to mess around with international shipping and shit. Just search for iCarsoft on souq there are always a few available there, if not maybe get in touch with the seller and see if can bring in the i909 and i930 for you. If still not they are always there on ebay for around a $100 https://www.icarsoft.com/Product/s-338-iCarsoft_Multi_system_Scanner_i909.html https://www.icarsoft.com/Product/s-332-icarsoft_multi_system_scanner_i930_for_landroverjaguar.html

You know this limited number supercar thing is a bit of scam to make their car seem a bit more rarer so they can up the price. Every since vinwiki came out people have been tracking cars by their vin numbers and almost always more cars are counted than the manufacturer said they will produce. I think La Ferrari is one of the biggest culprit of that.

Have a diagnostic reader plugged in and see what codes its throwing, then take it from there, from described symptoms could be anything from a dead dying MAF sensor, IAC valve to janky ignition coils. Avoid any place that starts to instantly throw parts at it without getting a diagnosis first. Om a side note everybody nowadays should have diagnostic readers in their toolkit. They have become pretty cheap now. Form a couple of 100dhs for specific car brands to 30-50dhs for a generic obdII reader

Our resident mech Saleem is not in favour of anything with a bit of style and not made in Japan, surprised he didnt try to change your mind to go for a corolla or sunny instead so take his advice with a grain of salt. IMO Merc would be a better choice since its more common and more bits and bobs including after market available for the Merc, also generally Mercs are said to be more reliable than Audis. Although A4 is a better looking and more snazzier car IMO at the end of the day. Get what make you happy, you only live once. Test drive a few examples of both and see which one you like better and go for that. What would you rather have a smile on your face everyday or a few extra coins in your pocket.

I officially hand my title of grumpy old man to you for life. Congratulations

That's the thing Barry, a lotta things you know from back home don't translate here. Heat and dust can do weird things to mechanical bits and electrics. Also I'm thinking older cars were much simpler and really didn't require much juice. Most were around 60amps with low CC numbers. Newer cars specially high-end ones are very power hungry. They have huge 100-110amp batteries with big CC numbers with massive generators/dynamos. And for some even that is not enough and they need a second battery like most modern Mercs. And if the battery is not in top notch condition, even though it has enough power to start and run the car. The car goes nutty throwing all sorts of lights, errors and acting funny. So all this extra strain I guess kills them faster. I had my D1 for 8 yrs and P38 for 6 and only towards the end of both I changed my batteries. My current range rover came with a dying battery so I popped in a used one from a buddy who had replaced his from a merc, that battery that didn't work in thr merc lasted me a year in the Range Rover and I think it only died because at that time I hardly used the car at al. Not more than 2-3 minutes of slow driving every two or three days just to get some groceries from near the house

I think Airbus will sue you for calling their most exceptional creation a Boeing A380!!!! Lol

So a "plane car" that doesn't actually fly and looks as if it was built in a shed in Ajman with big dings and dents on the fuselage and crappy bondo work. I really don't see the point to be honest.

Let the P38A guru set you straight. Your steering pump I'm pretty much guessing is almost 20 yrs old now and while in reverse, Uturn or any crawl driving situation you are at low rpms and pump is not what it used to be and weaker than it used to be, so it won't work as efficiently resulting is a stiffer steering at low rpms. If the fluid level is correct and its humming when you turn then its on its last legs anyways. Replace your steering pump with a new one, not used but new and it should get better. Or look on top of the steering box there is a 14mm( If I recall ) checknut, loosen that a bit and in the middle of that is much smaller a hex/torx nut, loosen that ever so slightly, like 15 - 20 degree turn, some steering fluid might also leak out but thats normal, that will loosen up the steering, check steering if it is to your liking, can take several attempts or have another pair of hands to help you out. Once you are happy and the amount of resistance, tighten the 14mm nut but side effect of that is you may now have slop in your steering. But you can come try to get a middle ground where you have minimal slop and steering stiffness is to your liking. That adjustment in the steering is there as the worm gear in the steering box wears away you develop slop or dead play in the steering over the years to get rid of that you tighten that and it reduces the tolerances between the gears. a lot of old skool cars that use the traditional worm gear steering box setup have this. I personally hate slop in the steering and dont mind a slightly stiff steering and in my 98 to get rid of it the adjustment it was fully tight which made the steering stiffer than normal cars but I didn't mind it as it didn't have any free play at all. I do miss my many P38s, contrary to popular belief one of the most reliable and cheap cars to maintain I've ever had. Never know in the future a nice clean one at the right price comes along. This time maybe turn it into an weekend warrior. I've always wanted to do that but always thought they were too elegant and civilised to be bashed around in the desert.

It wouldn't help answering that question if you already don't know the answerto that. As advised get a second opinion from a second shop and even a 3rd opinion from a third. If it is really smoking, then yes the engine needs to be opened up and rebuilt, which in turns equal to a lot of $$$$$$$ Or just keep on driving it as is. Keeping an eagle eye on oil and coolant levels. OR sell it. Still having a hard time believing such a low mileage motor is smoking. Good luck

I/we meant 2nd opinion, not option, big difference. If you want a somewhat informed response from the members you'll have to answer the queries posed by them including me. I'm still not sure how a motor with only 55k is smoking unless something drastic has happened to it, which was previously asked and there was no answer from you. It could be something simple as a blocked PCV pipe causing blowback or a blown head gasket. No one will know or make an educated guess unless there is more information passed on from your side

What's the history of the car? Do you have it since new? Couple of years or just bought it. Hard to believe a motor with only 55k kms on it is already smoking. Did you drive it without oil, overheat it etc etc etc. Also I'd get a second opinion.

Check your PCV system, the most ignored thing in these parts. Look it up if you dunno what it is.

Body kit for the new Zuk Jimny. I like the little G

No nothing funny, Italian cars specially the Lancia are like this, need regular expensive maintenance. I knee someone who hap to scrap a perfectly good older manual transmission Alfa Romeo because the clutchplate was worth more than the value of the car itself. So he said screw it and scrapped it.

Believe it or not Ive had a chance to buy this ans many other cars which now demand a high price at dirt cheap throw away prices. When the whole jap import scene just started and the Afghanis and Khans had no idea what they were bringing in. If only I knew all this cars would go up in value not so long after. A particular one I remember was a 1984 Mercedes 540 SEC coupe, guy was asking 7k would have sold for 5k . Nice clean low kms fresh import. Then of end of line soft dash RRC for 5k which I skipped too.

Lancia Integrale. Stopped making it because it's a Lancia and breaks down every 500mtrs

Old GPS systems were like this, remember this is almost 20yrs old, which other car even had a GPS 20yrs ago.

Well just because its a Pajero doesnt mean its like yours, its a different generation Pajero with a lot of differences. Well depends on how sensitive and how your car is setup. Slight chances of failing emissions tests if a car uses downstream O2 sensors, and throw up a CEL but since the old jeros like yours and gauravs dont seem to have none, don't think it will be an issue.