Gaurav

Hi Sandeep, welcome to carnity offroad club and good you asked such question beforehand. Although newbie desert drives are very safe and involve no much dune bashing other than crossing the dunes straight up and down, but such young passenger might be uncomfortable for long hours in their baby seat. Secondly, why don't you join first and learn the desert basics and then judge by yourself if it's gonna be comfortable for your kid or not for next drive?

You mean with the fats or w/o the fats....? Looking forward to seeing everyone's 10 year back images

@treks , @shadow79 , @DamasoSanoja please help and advise

With so much power it can climb Moreeb on two wheels quietly. Have I said "quietly" oh no what will happen to all doof doof fun to tell ppl im climbing. Maybe like an internal speaker of car drone noise, electric will come in future with external loudspeakers to replicate V8 and V12 rumble notes.

Seems like that driver wants to avoid that guy in front by going a little right and then entered the slip face and then while steering left and up he fought the gravity on soft patch resulting in a flip. However, the driver reaction after the flip tells another story: Either he is too happy to be alive Or did it on purpose (i doubt) Anyways lesson for bystanders that never come in between the path when someone is doing sideys (side sloping) as you never know what counter-action driver take in a spur of the moment which may result in a hazardous outcome.

Good luck for option 2 (best choice) and hope she gets well soon with all new organs. Is this in half cut you sourced, meaning you had a look at odometer reading or was it out of the car?

Very good observation, any more guesses guys.....?

Call Ahmed at Jabal Tokyo as he is the best importer for our shape Pajero stuff. 056 9675230

Even if it's his lucky day, all khaleeji (GCC) 3.5 are choked to death either by offroad abuse or by high mileage. Japanese import 3.5 get quickly exported to Oman and other GCC countries for big fat premium with internal super active contacts. Secondly, plonking 3.5 in place of 3.0 do your research if it fits on same engine mount or not. If not don't bother as RTA will not pass it unless job is 2 billion light-years % perfect or comes with wasta paper.

Hope this helps https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Pajero

OMG, that's very sad and surprising. On the bright side, plonking new Japanese import engine is far better than rebuild as your shape 3.0 engines are very easily available in shj. Must be around 2-3k tops with low mileage. Rebuilding this might cost you 1-5k depending on surprises what it holds underneath. Good luck and keep us posted.

WHAT, WHEN, WHERE, WHY, HOW, the hell in the world you can blow head gasket buddy........! Overheated and you drove on redline? Was there any leak develop that you ignored? Or any hosepipe busted? All are unlikely in this winter timing and that too on road usage.

What's wrong with Toyota designer to show fats like a sumo wrestler for a sports car........!

Slight correction Mitsubishi was also fully synthetic 5W30 blend, just confirmed from the picture from 16 July 2018 and resulted in ticking noise on 16 Sep 2018 in 2 months within roughly 1000 kms (3-4 offroad drives).

To best of my knowledge and experience seems oil issue (90%) or oil pumping failing that is not able to push the engine oil with required force. Although I'm just an end user and not technician, I will leave the floor now for an experienced technician to advise further. @Barry @shadow79 @treks what do you guys think.....? Sorry Hossein, no comments on Habtoor choice of LUKOIL but it didnt work out for my car and produced that loud ticking noise in less than 1000 kms, hence changed back to Mobil 1, my most trusted and favorite engine oil brand.

Hahaha, so freebie oil cant do really good tbh as its a lifeblood for your engine. You have to be very careful with the oil blend and brand for any car. From how long you have this Pajero? From how long you have this ticking noise? How many km is it driven? When did you last change the oil filter? Have you ever changed engine oil pump?

Change oil is highly recommended if noise is not going away after engine if fully warmed up. Maybe show to the same guy and ask him to fix it, as they have done the oil change. Is this the first time you hear this noise after the oil change.....? Then all the more reason to go back and give some love to that garage.

I'm using Mobil 1 - 0W40 fully synthetic blend instead of 5W30 semi-synthetic (recommended) blend to provide better all-around lubrication. I think Habtoor oil was LUKOIL (maybe) and cost me 150-160 dhs for 4 liters, next I changed from Mobil 1 Sharjah and it cost me 240 aed for 0W40, same in Mobil 1 Dubai cost 350+ Does your lifter noise goes away once an engine is fully warmed up......?

Which oil you used and from where you have purchased........? As it matters the most. I have shot one engine due to oil starving - god only knows whether it was sub-standard oil, or oil pump failed for few seconds

First and the foremost you aren't spamming and don't think that way, the core of Carnity is to share knowledge and help car owners on GCC specific cars. Unless you are selling fake passports, degrees, drugs, watches or self-promotion is considered spam here and get shot every 10 minutes. As per OP, this is the typical scenario of lifter starving of oil. If it only happens when the car is cold and goes away when it reaches idle temperature, its borderline acceptable. After my recent engine change, for the first time I have used Mitsubishi engine oil from Habtoor and after 2-3 weeks I got the worst noise while startup and it got reduced a lot after the warm but it has not stopped completely. So I changed back to my Mobil1 and never heard of noise again. So yes this could be because of the inferior quality of oil that fails to reach to the lifter on top due to varied viscosity at varying temperature and failing to lube the lifters and rockers. Pajero ticking.mp4

As discussed on the drive, it sounds like a vacuum leak from somewhere. New point added now that it stops when you touch the brake points it could be booster dying. I replaced my booster 20-30k kms back and once its dead brake will be very very hard, and you have to literally stamp on the brake pedal with full power to stop the car. The car will stop fine but braking distance increases by 20-30% due to a late reaction. If your brakes are fine yet, you can drive 3K (hopefully) or let some good mechanic test the leak and advice accordingly.

Check the fuse diagram and see if any relay is controlling the DRL (daytime running light) or fog lights and gently tap on those relay to see if that helps. Similar happened to my wife trailblazer when solid state relay failed and resulted in an exact same symptom of one side headlight failed. Those solid state relay doesn't have any clicking noise to identify if they are working fine or not. So my best bet would be to change that. In Chevrolet, it was costing me 350 and 30 days wait for special order, then I sourced same in scrap parts shop by scouting few hours and found one for 50 dhs.