Gaurav

Dartz Prombron - not your daily auto magazine car

This is the same point auto experts in the last automechanika were discussing and realizing that aftermarket auto industry and auto servicing workshops should need to take adequate steps to keep pace with growing EV in the market

Well not really, maybe your date of birth is already sold. I checked and its available for many of imp dates if I wish to buy if I prefer 5 digits.......!

Also worth changing the radiator cap first (low-cost fix), as I think treks mentioned before because if the cap is no longer holding certain pressure to open and close then this borderline heating is probable cause. Then go with the thermostat change / checking Then go with radiator check / cleaning / change And last should be water pump change as it's inside the engine and most expensive repair.

You should better call RTA or Dubai Police to seek an advice, which seems quite legit in your case but better to check than assume. Read this today's GN article on same news: https://gulfnews.com/news/uae/transport/dh3-000-fine-for-carpooling-in-uae-1.2279736

Yes, I upgraded to better quality Standox German paint and hard wearing lacquer by paying a couple of hundred extra. So far Im happy after almost 2 years now, but the guy who painted become a non-friendly guy as per Rahim bhai experience last year. So yes, checking the previous work, paint booth setup, and type of paints they use always get you better results. Going to OP, German car uses different ways of painting the new vehicle like dipping the whole car in the paint couple of times than spraying that gives them a solid feel - that's what I heard. More technical savvy guys can add more reasoning to your question.

Amazing off-road terrain from Shuwaib to Iftar Bowl in Sharjah that offers an amazing mix of medium - tall dunes along with the surprise of small technical dunes and sticky pockets with soft sand. Plenty of opportunities to play and have good dune bashing or dune driving along these set of lovely red sand dunes. Advisable for seasoned lead driver along with intermediate drivers only. This area is not suitable for newbies/fewbies off-roaders. Minimum cars: 3 capable proper 4x4 cars with recovery points. Sharing the track of exact drive and terrain we followed. Starting: Shuwaib Waypoint: 24.823900º N 55.768604º E Finished: Iftar Bowl (Rifadah) Waypoint: 24.916928º N 55.740696º E Complete route track in GPX and KMZ file attached below - Enjoy. Shuwaib Iftar bowl.gpx Shuwaib Iftar bowl.kmz

Indeed it's a great move and I remember one of the jokes happened early this year on this exact issue. While transferring my Range whose ex-owner an investment manager and heading some blockchain related big things in Dubai. While giving the Range transfer paper to Wasl guys in renewal center, he said all this all will be online in next few years. To this response, the desk guy said "affirmatively" No, we need these papers and without this, we cannot even renew and staple all papers with a big grunt. We both were smiling and laughing inside. It's perhaps less than six months now......!

I had Nissan once and I know the heat gauge should be within two first lines close to C. Nissan's engine cooling system is built very strong and really doesn't overheat in UAE heat very easily. When I used to push my Patrol in 50+ heat in the desert it used to move little above the first line, similar to what you are experiencing in stuck traffic. So there is definitely something wrong, but nothing to panic as it's very minor movement and it returns to normal when you start moving and air circulation improves. For the gear thud, is something more worrying on what you are explaining that from 2nd to 1st downshift there is a big noticeable jerk, I will highly advise you to get the gear oil and gear oil filter changed ASAP, as all gear issue starts with bad oil. If this issue still persists, show it to some gear expert and ask them to diagnose it properly. Below are the three workshops I found from business listing who also give special pricing for carnity members, good luck and keep us posted.

No, he was on stock tires, on the contrary, my Mustang had wider tires and still doing the burnout in a straight line with proper steering control.

Of course, Poor Pajero's doesn't have a character of doing fault - beep beep beep - like Range Rover's after every 100 km from one fault to another fault. Yes, Pajero's are small and tight to hold themselves together and not leaking like Range Rover's everywhere like dogs taking a piss and marking their territories. Yes, Pajero's are boring and charmless of not keeping owner busy with the mechanic, parts shop and scrapyard and keep working flawlessly for years like a washing machine and a toaster - it's called reliability in some people dictionary. 😂🤣off course I'm kidding too 😂😂

OK, guys, this is a different scenario of lifting the front due to excessive torque like Fast and Furious cars, but what I mentioned was the car was moving ahead doing a burnout but not in straight line and slightly tilted on one side. I had my Mustang for 2 years and know how 450 hp in 1.5 ton body do the burnout in a straight line, plus that car owner knew that issue as a known problem since he bought and couldn't rectify that deformity probably due to expensive repairs.

I understood your concern and as per many online forums which suggest Dana 4.1 is the best for offroad, you also need to remember that Jeep has huge aftermarket parts market and they need to sell those parts by showing amazing videos. If I am in your place, I would test it for few sand off-road drives and see what diff good/bad this 29-31 is resulting and then jump to any conclusion. For the road, you can simply use the phone GPS to gauge the speed difference once and note that in mind so that you don't get fines. Remember the OEM parts that came with the vehicle may not be the best in performance, but made for best in reliability and long life usage. Switching to an aftermarket part may compromise those points to a great extent, so do it if it's an absolute necessity. If you can still climb Faya from the front like a walk in a park and from right slipface with little push, then do you really need any more upgrades......?

I totally agree, that some special need with manual or some other feature or option that existed only in import and non-gcc then it makes sense, but it shouldn't be a salvage title. And if you are a mechanic or workshop owner then buy salvage at dirt cheap and fix it yourself to proper safety standards.

Btw, while I was about to buy my Mustang, I drove one of my neighbors Mustang (US Spec) in Warqa by chance and while hitting full gas, the car does burn out very aggressive but while doing burn out car tilt on left and move fwd. I tried few times as he was my neighbor and then thought that in all 4-5 attempts I can't lose the steering control and no matter how much countersteering I correct car still tilt on left and move forward. Finally, this guy confronted that this is how the car has been behaving since he bought soon after the import and it seems some driveshaft balancing issue has not been corrected in the past. Apart from this everything is fine "bro"

If the doctor advised you to only buy that, do so as medicines are priceless. Or you can wait to find a clean one and be ready to pay an extra premium. It took me 4-5 months to find a Range without a donkey mileage and when I found it, I closed the deal in 1 hour. My biggest worry with import is the substandard repair that might cost me arm and leg after a couple of months, no matter how smartly I check or find the history but you can never find the background on how cheaply it has been repaired or how unsafe it can be for me and my family usage.

40k of 50k = 20% depreciation + no headache or fear of exploding or burning into flames due to a cheap fix 20k of 30k = 33% depreciation + 5k for bringing it back to GCC specs + repairs 20k of 35k = 42.8% depreciation overall + no peace of mind https://gulfnews.com/news/uae/transport/total-loss-cars-from-us-hurting-dubai-market-auto-traders-claim-1.1708567

I totally agree as my last car was 2012 Mustang 5.0 (GCC) and on same car I got saved by insurance reference that it is totaled car, another Mustang I was about to buy after getting tested in two places. And 5 out of my 10 friends mentioned above is driving Mustang. So buy with very long-term intentions, lol. One of the best reason to discourage non-GCC car I completely forgot to mention. If you are stuck with any rare issue or need a dealer support then the local dealer will not even look at you, let alone touching non-gcc car. I had Lexus GS430 EU spec and the car died on road without any warning, sent to Al futtaim and they didn't accept the car. Checked outside with 3-4 top notch garage, no one can diagnose. Then wrote a nasty letter to Lexus Japan and then they requested Al futtaim to attend the car and Lexus Japan supported Al Futtaim with all wiring and diagrams. Then Al futtaim figured out that immobilizer got a short circuit and resulted in total car shut off. Btw, this ordeal went for 1-2 months to resolve the wiring and got my car back. People here make endless stories that dealers scare and spread these stories to sell their GCC cars and often times import car dealer or owner swears million times that this car running without any issue, bla bla. To be honest local car dealers here are not evil, just to touch non-gcc car as they didn't make a profit on those cars but they are genuinely stuck with no wiring and diagrams support. And the moment they touch the car then it becomes their responsibility so they steer clear from that unwanted risk and problems, whose trace program itself can cost them a fortune to diagnose and fix.

Barry when you buy one and drive for a year or two and sell it successfully then you will go through the real learning process. I can go on with this topic until my fingers bleed, but I'll keep it short: Weather specs are only one worry and yes it does require alteration and modification and after that, you can safely enjoy non-gcc specs car in UAE. This process if you are not highly educated and mechanically well off then workshop here will rip you off and you will finish all saving you made by buying the non-gcc specs in one go. Secondly, as desertdude mentioned, all imports are either flood damage or accident written off, again you should have a real keen eye to identify a clean car among the bunch of lemons. And trust me used car dealer here are so smart in covering things up that even the seasoned eyes can get fooled. I got saved twice purely by good luck, when all my experience and knowledge said its cleaned and even the testing guys generated a clean title report. Lucky while getting the insurance come to know that it has been written off by Al Tayer and that's why no guarantee on 4 years model who supposed to have 5 years guarantee. Workmanship here to hide things can get to real hideous level sometimes in the automotive industry. So take no chance in such pass the bug game, or else you might get stuck with that bug for LONG LONG time. I know more than 10 friends who are still driving import purely because they can't sell it. Last but not least is the terrible resale value, as they depreciate faster than GCC cars and after getting it cheap, you will really regret selling at even cheaper resale value, as the market is always flooded with these imports and people are always desperate to knock them off and used car dealers are very competitively priced to drive these car prices lower every month due to endless supply from abroad. Long story short, I highly advise everyone that pay 10-15% extra and buy GCC cars, so you will enjoy the ownership and you will be able to sell it off at a fair price after you are done.

Very wise decision to stick to GCC, that's what we all believe in too here as we have learned by burning our fingers few times.

Your single and MOST important recovery tool that can help you get unstuck 75% of the time is the good full-size shovel. Not the foldable one, not the small spoon size for decoration, but the one laborer uses with a metal scoop and wooden or metal handle for proper displacement of sand. If you are lone surfer then I will highly recommend carrying two shovels, one with normal length and another one with longer length in case you need to reach deeper under the vehicle. Trust me in my 12 years of off-roading experience, I have seen people carrying the world in their car but except a proper shovel that alone can save the day so many times. See the last year desert training video in the gallery where we taught people getting unstuck from a crest with the help of shovel only. Second most important addon for self-recovery is the winch, that can pull you out from any sticky spot, provided you are ready to bury your spare wheel and hook the winch. Maxtrax recovery sand mats or a similar one you will only use when stuck in the super soft sand and if you are an experienced off-roader and know how to crawl out with engine LO power and constantly turning steering with the quick interval of accelerations up to 2k RPM, you will never need those tracks. I bought them too and hardly used once or twice out of fun and it's still eating dust. Last but not least advise for a lone surfer is to drive wisely and not be too adventurous, as mother nature always strike when you are least prepared.

Welcome zaidane, which year Z you got and how much you paid, as my cousin is after one of these too and looking for some ownership advise for road and track (if you do) both. He is a new license young lad, so getting strong resistance from the family.