shadow79

if people while servicing their cars notice when it's rised they could make out some more places where they could put shackles like thick chassis beams under the car they too are solid but definitely not on the shock struts

Not everything used is good or gonna last I have seen people expect to buy seals , gaskits break pads pipes also used... service items should be bought new or even aftermarket

Pump properly repaired is almost equal to a new pump price Better roll the dice and get a used one and hope that it wasn't abused earlier... Don't forget to flush the old fluid out before putting it in

Still better than the service manual of panamera it's 45000 pages of crazy things heard that Boeing manual has 50k pages....

Only the top aluminum arm is for around 1500 genuine new. try to get some good quality bush it will be cheaper and try to change your driving habit of the way you accelerate from stand still.... should last you bit longer....

If you buy few Pajeros in different colors might be cheaper than putting that on one Pajero....such things could be breaking the bank...

The bigger the rims get...the thinner the tire wall gets why do you want to experience each and every pot and hole on the road...

Sludge builds up because 1 you using the oil beyond it's due change time (most people are from this category) 2 your engine for some reason is running pretty hot thus cooking up the engine oil (almost all cars only have a oil light to indicate pressure but usually almost none of them have a engine oil temperature gauge if you have and know how to read and respond to it then you can avert many situations) 3 you using the oil which is low in rating for the required car's application... If you dislodge that not all of it will end up out while draining some will be there to stick to the oil strainer and some might actually be sticking in those vain like oil lines which will later on invite trouble....

this is just a light case of sludge i have seen worse those pictures are somewhere in the seederbox but you can google them too

If you remove the oil fill cap you can peak in to it or a even better view would be when the valve covers seals need to be changed at that time you can have a better view of the situation...

If you really have reached to the point where such sludge has built up in the engine then it's a very bad idea to dislodge them and risk having your oil strainer chocked ultimately depriving the engine of oil

Don't forget to plan before hand where you gonna stick it first as there is no meaning in getting a 50 inch bar and having a 24 inch space in the bumper....

It's becoming a heap of shit after few consecutive model's...a friend has a 15 model went together for a small round and we weren't even far from the road and it was oozing coolent from the reservoir....

Going at 120 then press that clutch and stick the stick at 3rd while giving it full throttle....the carb feeding the thirst no cutoffs....

They say me to be good...so I am working on trying to be good lately 😀...

If any check engine light is on then it's best to get it scanned and post the codes here so we can guide from there...

The blower motor would only reach a certain rpm only and if the intercooler is having a scoop vent that will be highly effective in dissipating the heat...

Sentras have a common problem with the fuel pump nozzle it just cracks when it gets old you should also be having increased fuel consumption due to the leaking joint...my advice would be to get the seat removed and open the pump hatch and watch for leakage signs

Just change the shocks with the pardo and you should be all set with the gx

Initial diagnosis was engine oil leakage from between the engine and transmission....if I had included the Piston set who knows he would have showed up next year then....

Told the customer to bring main and converter seals weeks ago when he dropped it atlast almost half an hour ago the phone rings and surprise it's him enquiring if he can get the car by night as he needs to go to abu Dhabi tonight....

Have experienced it in quetta there it's really common but still whenever it happened everyone around me used to run to open ground where as I was usually trying to gasp if it was in my head or really things were shaking many times my relatives used to run and then come back to get me...but still it didn't register in my head what actually was happening...

@Barry you already hit bullseye

Baja seems rings like sugar to ears...

It completely normal for AC to blow cold air in 30 seconds to a minute depending on the type and size of system most of the factory service manuals recommend that the evaporator temperature be recorded in idle rpms after the cars rpm is raised up to 1500 to 2k for 3 to 5 minutes that means that the refrigerant should be in full circulation... Those vapors could be a sign that the thermostat is set at very low temp or in some cars that the evaporator thermostat is bad and is not cutting out when reaching the desired temperature...to check that you have to open bonnet and monitor the clutch (if it's a clutch driven compressor) while in idle it should regularly disengage and re-engage if it's a direct drive compressor then you have to get a diagnosis machine and read live data of air conditioning ECU from there monitor the evaporator temperature sensor and AC duty cycle percentage both should be inversely proportional....now about the screeching noise could be the clutch bearing going bad could be the belt going bad could also be a sign of overcharged system There could be a blockage in the system which the compressor overcomes Could also be that something is broken in the compressor that when not in the right place stopes or make it harder for the compressor to start pumping refrigerant