Stumpy

Nothing, just embracing “Yalla push” 🤣

My approval from the “war and finance minister” is still pending, so there is still hope for the waitlist 😂

Great to see the same motley crew, 👍 we need some recognition for all these diehards who kept driving all summer.

So I can turn off the power at the source, if I have any problems with the compressor/switch/wiring etc I can turn the power off. I aways try to ensure there is multiple ways to make any powered accessories as safe as possible.

You must have had a tail wind to get that Jeep up to 88mph 😂

Well done @Mark B time for those new gears 👌

Thanks, yes definitely will watch the heat. Will bring my spare compressor tomorrow in case the temp switch goes off. @Bravoechohad the same compressor mounted in a similar spot in his GX460 by ARB. It got hot as they do but never shut off and his tyres were a lot bigger than mine so fingers crossed. otherwise we will have a BBQ tomorrow 😂

It’s a hell of a decision, I have been around 4wds for 35+ years now and the Japanese cars have always been the pick. I would probably get in trouble saying “i would buy a 10year old second hand Japanese car over a European or American in most cases”, so I won’t say it. 😅 My GX460 uses noticeably less fuel than my Pajero. Personally wouldn’t look at the 300 with the 4.0v6. It’s too much car for that engine (like the 4.0v6 in the patrol) the 250 series looks good, I think it will come with the 4.0 as a option as well. But will be a bit of a wait for delivery. if you are going to look at a GX for off road definitely get the bottom spec one. You can upgrade the suspension easy and it’s lighter without the electric rear seats, and the ventilated front seats. KDSS has been around for awhile now and is actually a very good system, so don’t be scared off taking it off road by a E11 salesman. The minister for war and finance will love the GX drive. Good luck

Hi mate, cheers, the environment here is definitely a consideration. there is a large air vent just below the compressor and the cavity it is in holds a large volume of air, probably better than the ARB case it was in previously. Will test it out on tomorrows drive. I ran a separate heavy feed direct from battery (inside a protective sleeve) with a 50amp resettable circuit breaker at the battery to protect the wiring and a 50amp fuse at the compressor end to protect the load. All wiring is marine grade tinned wiring as well as the joints. I will be installing a relay next week so that it’s not hot all the time at the compressor switch. I have seen the standard that professionals do here and it’s scary so I do my own wiring

I have a GX460 as well as my pardo. My version is the top one with the electronic height adjustable suspension. While it is extremely comfortable and has heaps of power the Pajero is a lot more suitable for our type of driving. the GX is my go to for long touring trips ( taking it to Oman next week) but has a bit to much plastic trim to use in the sand. that said you can get the lower spec with conventional suspension and build it into a beast with the right budget. They have the best petrol engine ever made by Toyota. Look up GXOR for inspiration

👌confirmed

Yep, this is a flush mount Anderson plug. i installed this a while ago as the power supply for my portable compressor,

Hi mate, yes the front diff was lowered as well, now have 2” suspension and 1”subframe drop on the front. front uses spacers on the subframe and strut spacers on the struts to give the extra 1”. I Would have to have a look at the gen2 to work out what’s needed with the torsion bars

Mostly personal preference but the V6 Engine bay is a bit to cramped, if this was the 3.2TD I would have a second battery and the compressor in the engine bay. there is lots of free space in the 1/4 panel plus it’s pulling clean cool air from the cabin, the engine bay cops at lot of sand and heat (over 90deg) so hopefully the compressor will last a bit longer in this location.

A small project that I have been putting off for a while. mounted the ARB compressor inside the rear L/H quarter panel. Lots of room even with the factory amplifier. had some left over sound deadening mat so put a bit in as well. took about three hours to do so nice little mod that frees up some of the limited space in the back of the SWB. Have a kill switch for it next to battery and the switch next to the air fitting but will install a relay and a switch in my dash next. (Just have to find a heavy duty 60amp relay)

1000km down and all is well so far, had to install 10mm spacers under the transmission mount as there was a bit of vibration from the tail shaft at higher speeds. Easy job just took me a few days to find something suitable. car drives the same, body roll and handling hasn’t changed, if anything it’s a bit better due to the new UCAs and trailing arm bushes. 👍👍👍👍

Is this on your gen 2, could be many things. Most likely if it’s coming from the front it’s the sway bar bushing or the torsion bar mounts. Could also be the shocks or the diff mounting. Try driving in 4l reverse at full lock, will tell you if the cvs are causing any issues, you can disconnect the sway bar and carefully simulate the same conditions with a raised wheel to see if it’s still happening.

Sorry @Ale Vallecchi have to remove myself, can’t make it this afternoon

The best mode is what works for you, as long as you feel in control 👍 You will find that in manual mode you get more control over the car, as you do more drives I would use it as much as you can so that you get a good feel for what’s happening, it will be come second nature soon enough and when you go back to auto it will feel like you are disconnected from the car 😂 the problem with all of our petrol engines is they are junk at low rpm’s, to unleash your petrols inner beast you need to let it rev 😂 or get a diesel

This is probably a topic that has been bashed around hundreds of times 😂 I would tend to disagree that it should be in auto, on the sand I nearly always use manual mode, only on long flat runs I will put it back into auto. the main reasons are control, engine braking and to save wear/heat in The transmission. 1. A automatic transmission can not predict what you are about to do so it will select a gear based on what the current needs are. This is great if you are on the road and the main concern is engine efficiency, not so good if you’re half way up a dune get a bit of wheel spin and decides to up shift. 2. When descending and the load comes off the transmission again it can upshift right when you need the engine braking to control your descent. A safety issue as the car starts to run away, you instinctively hit the brake and over you go. 3. A auto is a fluid pump, it works by converting hydraulic pressure into torque. It does this by pumping fluid through a torque converter. At low speed this converter is allowed to slip to allow the engine to build rpm. This slip is what generates the heat in the fluid. At higher speeds and in manual mode there is less slip and in some cases the converter will lock up. By driving in manual mode you control the slip and stop some of the heat being generated. Therefore you can stop your transmission overheating or getting damaged. I have seen many Pajeros suffer from the over temp gearbox, never had mine come anywhere near to the limit, all of them were driving in auto. just my 2c, happy to be proved wrong.

Hi mate, nope same old dented fuel tank, it’s on the list 🤣( very long list) as for approval I am trying to get it sorted as want to make sure it’s all above board. Took it to the inspection station and the inspector said no need for suspension upgrade but not convinced that’s right so still chasing it. by the rules you need approval for everything non standard, we would all fail 😂

Subframe drop done 👍, took a day and a half to install but well worth it I think. Did a f+ drive with @Ale Vallecchi on Sunday to test and suspension seams to move a lot better with the new UCAs and trailing arms. Didn’t lift wheels anywhere as much as previously. bit of a full on job to install yourself in the Dubai summer 🥵 but thanks to @Bravoechofor your help. (Only had to get the angle grinder out for one old mount bolt 😂, and to modify the air filter housing) comparison photo to a standard SWB added

Has anyone installed their own subframe drop and UCA’s. any tips or tricks you might have, mainly concerned with the front subframe, I have the radiator and power steering drop brackets as well but I think I might have problems with the engine intake hose contacting the TJM snorkel ducting. Would anyone know who would stock a good selection on silicone hoses that I could replace the standard intake with? I think I won’t need to do a wheel alignment with the forward UCAs as there is nothing adjustable there but the rear control arms will definitely need it. Has anyone done their own rear wheel alignment on their paj? will be tackling this next weekend just trying to get everything ready thank you

I Was having the same problem with my cronos switch. Loose all lights and could not reset without restarting car. Would also get the handbrake (abs) warning light come on when ambient temp was above 30ish. I removed the cronos switch and replaced it with one made in Australia (I am told cronos tried to copy the Australian one) all my problems are fixed, the new one works perfectly. new factory look switch old harness on the left, looks similar but the new one on the right has much better workmanship/quality parts.

Not applicable on Pajero, especially points 1 thru 7, you have to worry about all of them all the time 😂