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Hi Derick, Let me share with you my personal experience in used cars. 1. I have owned 2 new cars and more than 10 used cars 2. I agree with Ethan who mentioned earlier (3-5 years) because the price of the car drops more than 30% and it is still considered new (usually 1 shape older than the newest one) 3. I don't renew a car ( 1 year or less) so that I don't lose much in the depreciation besides that I love to change cars 4. Honestly, I have never thought like this; any car I feel like I want to own and it is within the budget, I am buying it regardless the resale hassle ( I prefer getting a car to enjoy the ride, rather buying a car that I don't like to sell it easily) Whether the used car is in UAE or elsewhere it always needs the following criteria to obtain a sweet ride : 1) a little bit of luck + 2) an average experience in cars (mechanically) in order to determine abnormal sounds in the engine, suspension, dent or delays in the gearbox + 3) checking the exact model reviews online which will be a main factor to chose your future car ( some cars have serious major problem from day 1) + 4) patience to get a clean neat car + 5) try to stay away from dealers or third parties trying to sell you a car 5. You can get a price guideline from Dubizzle + or - , putting in mind that there are 4 types of people listing their carsFirst type: normal people selling their personal car (recommended)Second type: well known dealers i.e (al nabooda, gargash,...)Third type: unknown dealers (mainly in Al Aweer) ‎Fourth type: dealers listing unavailable cars with a very low price to drop the market for a specific period to buy from the first type (personal) with a cheap price and resell it in their showroom 6. Recommended to get a private sellers car and get a test drive; if you feel it's clean, then it's time to take it for a full check up (best place in the agency) Again stay away from dealers because they refurbish the car and polish it, so all the visible parts will give you the feeling and the impression like it's a brand new car, however it might be your nightmare that will never let you go again for this experience.‎Good Luck and I hope I've covered everything you wanted to know.

Just to lighten things up a bit 391595

Why would you spend extra money changing 3 sensors when only one is possibly faulty? That's a very main dealerish attitude towards repair. The correct procedure would be to scan the fault code memory and see what it says. If a sensor has an intermittent fault, there will be a code logged towards it. If no codes are logged, the vehicle should be driven whilst plugged into the diagnostic tool and live data monitored and recorded so you can see exactly what's going on when the fault occurs. Even this doesn't mean a sensor is faulty. The wiring must be thoroughly inspected along the complete length from the transmission to the ECU. I have seen similar faults occur where 'mechanics' change and change various sensors but the fault still exists when the real issue was damaged sheathing causing the wires to the sensor to short circuit and send the vehicle into limp mode which was reset by turning the vehicle on and off again.

@Technician, I could not have said it better myself...

Running without a thermostat will help the engine to run cooler initially but it's not something I would recommend as a long term solution. It's a last resort technique used when the thermostat fails and you need to keep the car running while you're waiting for one to be ordered in or you're having another overheating problem which you're waiting to get sorted. Without a thermostat, it will take the engine longer to warm up which means you're using more fuel, a bit like driving round all the time with the choke on (if you're old enough to remember chokes). Because you're using more fuel, it can cause the spark plugs to foul up which will affect running. The oil will take longer to reach operating temperature which means it's not doing it's job properly and may cause premature engine wear, bearing failure, piston ring failure etc. If you have an overheating problem, the only real solution is to find the root cause and fix it. Removing the thermostat is just burying your head in the sand.

For Pajero thermostat, go with GCC specs thermostat as it set to open at around 68-71 degrees and same has been engraved on the thermostat metal outer body. One that says above 78 - 82 is not GCC specs. These few degrees difference will make a big difference in keeping Pajero tad hotter in slow non-moving traffic in extreme summers or at high speed above 120 in day time. Is your Pajero AC cuts off after 120 in night temperature as well....?

Hi Luqman, @ethan is right, and Pajeros can, and do overheat very easily. Along with the viscous fan, I would also have the thermostat replaced, but only with an OEM part. You may also want to fit a thermostat that opens a little sooner than the standard unit- just ask the salesman at the dealer to check the opening and closing temperatures of the thermostats that fit your model, and take the one that opens at the lowest temperature. What ever you do though, NEVER fit a non-OEM thermostat on a Pajero.

AC will be switched off on slightest overheating in almost any car. So as a first point of concern as summer months are coming and we started hitting 37-38 degrees already, this seems a usual behavior to kick in if Engine cooling is not optimum. Get the radiator coolant check, if its too old and rusty replace to new one. Dont use water as it increase the rusting chances, use proper green or better red coolant. Ask mechanic to check the viscose clutch fan is working or not, as when car slightly overheat this main radiator big fan (viscose fan) supposed to run faster to bring the car temperature down. I assume here when car hit above 120, load on engine is more and that in turn produce more heat due to weak engine cooling system and to reduce engine load car computer shuts off the AC rather than car getting overheat.

Flushing an engine is not a bad thing in itself, but it should not be required on a 2015 model. If any sludge is found at this point, the better option would be to find and correct the cause, instead of relying on flushing agents to prevent continued sludge formation. The biggest problem with flushing agents is the fact that you can't get all of it out of an engine after an engine flush and oil change. The remaining flush may help to help keep the engine clean, but it also dilutes the fresh oil. I would only ever use a flushing agent if there is actual sludge present, and then change the oil twice to make sure all the gunk gets removed. A great way to prevent sludge is to use a fully synthetic oil, since it does not oxidize as easilly as regular mineral oil. It may be more expensive, but it lasts nearly twice as long, and you get almost double the lubricity of mineral oil.

Hi Arran, The problem you describe is a known issue on Ford Edge models, and it is caused by the failure of sensors inside the transmission. It can be any one of three sensors- the transmission speed sensor, the turbine sensor, the pressure sensor, or all three, so it would be wise to have all three sensors replaced. It is strange that the dealer would tell you to merely switch the engine off and on again. While this resets the sensors and the circuits they control, Ford has issues a TSB about this issue, and the dealer should have known better, since this problem is a dangerous condition to have on any car.

Milo has done a good job in posting almost every possible scenario and his experience, really like reading these type of opinionated thread so that I learn something new: That in dubizzle unknown dealers are putting cars at low price to break the car market price....! WOW and Super Crap....! In general, how many of you car owners have the used cars in dubai?All the time used car, never bought a new yet and dont plan to.How many years old that car was when you bought it?Average 5 years, but I buy older than 10 years also if its clean and gonna be my second car that will be used less for shcool run or weekend drives only.For approx how many years you keep the used cars? I keep for average 3 years and then switch to another brand to taste more carshow do you make out which used car in uae is a good buy or a lemon?Service history, service history and service history. Everything else is a gray area (usually lies).How do you find out justified price of any used car?Search 5-6 similar cars from different online advertisement sites and you will get the average price.how to find out genuinely used cars for sale in uae and not from fake dealers?You will feel the love of car or the attitude, as dealers will talk only business language and personal deals will always have their personal story or condition to tell: Like carry strollers in trunk, having sunglasses in glove box, keep air freshener on the AC duct, having tissue box at passenger seat etc. you will have some sign of personal use in the real owner car deals.

Dear Mitsubishi Pajero Owner's I have the whole 'Workshop Repair Manual' for Pajero which cover all the models from 2007 to 2013 models. This includes procedures step by step guidance, with step by step Removal & Installation, Trouble Codes which is difficult to understand & how to repair what to repair, This Mitsubishi Repair Manual Covers complete Petrol Engine, Diesel Engine, Automatic & Manual Transmission, Transfer Case, Periodic Maintinance, Specified Lubricants, Parts & Sensors location, Body Repair etc. I can also help you out for reasonable Pajero used Parts, Wheel Rims, Body Parts, Used Tires etc etc. You can contact me through this website i can get back to you. Thanks