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treks

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Everything posted by treks

  1. treks
    @Technician I fully agree with you that people have the right to fix their own cars. That was never in dispute, but personal experience has taught that illegal copies of diagnostic software are often corrupted, and in one case (there are others, but I fixed this one) the user of an illegal copy wiped the operating system from his BMW when he tried to clear a code. I also applaud you for once being hired by MB without formal training, but here is the thing- Google is no substitute for formal training, and growing with new technologies over decades. Moreover, forums are more often than not, fraught with wrong diagnoses, speculation, guesswork, and the opinions of people who, apart from their own problem(s) with their own vehicle(s), have for the most part, no clue about what a reliable repair entails. An opinion is one thing, and everyone is entitled to one, but the owner of a repair shop, such as myself, can never rely on Google and Internet forums for information on how to perform repairs on a customer's vehicle. When a customer presents me with a problem on his vehicle, he relies on my training, knowledge and skill as a mechanic to resolve the problem, not my skills in internet research to find a solution that may, or may not work. The customer pays me, the owner of the shop, to resolve the issue, and comebacks are for my account, not the mechanic's account to whom I had assigned the job. Being self-taught is a great thing, but a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. You may know your way around an OBD system, but to suggest that all the average car owner needs to fix a/his car is a laptop and a ripped copy of some diagnostic software, is disingenious to say the least. You, as Technician, may know that a generic fault can trigger one or more vehicle-specific codes, and how to resolve the root cause of a code, but to seriously suggest that the average car owner in the UAE, or anywhere else for that matter, only needs a laptop and a ripped copy of software in order to decode the freeze frame data or code setting parameters where this has happened might create opportunities for DIY mechanics to make expensive mistakes. One example- an emission control -related code could be the result of using the wrong engine oil, and there may be nothing wrong with any component, circuits, or control modules. If you knew nothing about lubrication technology, would you be able to trace the cause of a damaged catalytic converter to unsuitable oil? If you didn't know that the molecules in synthetic oil are all the same size, and that the oil therefore provides better lubrication, would you be able to ascribe the code to excessive mechanical wear because the owner tried to save some money by using mineral oil, or would you try to find the cause elsewhere? Another example is the analysis of wave forms in ignition, and/or charging systems. You and I may know the difference between the electrical waveforms generated by two-, and three-wire Crank Position Sensors, or how long it should take a sine wave to decay in a defective alternator, but do you seriously expect the avarage DIY mechanic to know this? I also agree with you that we all have to start somewhere, but the cars we worked on in the early 1990's are as far removed from today's cars as a kite is removed from the Space Shuttle. The cars of 20 years ago simply did not have the miles of wiring, several hundred fuses, dozens of relays/control modules, or the thousands of electrical connections we see in modern cars. You cannot seriously expect a DIY mechanic to find a high resistance, out-of-spec reference voltage, loss of ground, or an open circuit in a modern German SUV with just a laptop and an almost-certainly outdated version of a diagnostic program in such a vehicle. At best, he may be able to extract a code or two, but without a wiring diagram, pressure to Hertz charts, or an oscilloscope (and the ability to interpret the data), the avarage DIY mechanic has no chance to find the cause of any problem, and even less so if the problem involves captive technology or diagnostic/repair information that is not available to the repair industry outside of the dealer network. In conclusion, I must say that a "professional" mechanic who relies on Google to find solutions to problems on internet forums should not be allowed to work as a mechanic. Period.
  2. treks
    "But to answer your original question, American or German? Japanese every time." Well, yes- if you want a leakproof engine, then Japanese is the way to go, no doubt about it.
  3. treks
    ".... they're overpriced and unreliable." As are most cars today...
  4. treks
    Bear in mind that cars with 17-,18-,19-inch rims usually have uni-directional tyres on the rims. This means that the tyre can only be used on one side of a vehicle, since the tyres were made to rotate in only one direction at high speeds. Therefore, these tyres cannot be fitted to the other side of the car, even if they are the same size. Rotating this tye of tyre to the other side of the vehicle will almost certainly cause catastrophic tyre failure, so have a good look at what type of tyres you have before you rotate them.
  5. treks
    One thing to learn how the software works, but something else entirely to interpret the data. A fault code in itself means nothing if you don't have a very good idea of the systems and fault setting parameters that caused the code to be set in the first place. In fact, unless you are a competent mechanic who understands the operating principles of the control systems that relate to a fault code, you probably have no business poking around an OBD system, much less trying to interpret the obtained data. Diagnosing fault codes, even generic codes of which there are more than 5000, is best left to competent technicians, and to suggest that illegally copied (ripped) software be used on any modern vehicle is the worst advice I have ever come across. There are simply no sources of free diagnostic software available anywhere, and some of the products mentioned - "Consult 3 for Nissan, VCDS for VW/Audi vehicles, and "Planet for Peugeot vehicles" are often pirated copies of proprietary software. As such, there is no guarantee that these programs won't harm a vehicle. These "products" should be treated with a great deal of circumspection, and especially by persons who are not skilled in automotive diagnostics.
  6. treks
    Hi husain1, The problem is unlikely to be more serious than wet wiring. The best thing to do would be to remove the bulb from the headlight, and allow it, and the connectors to dry out comletely before replacing the bulb. You can also coat all wiring and the inside of all connectors with a water-repellent spray. There are many brands available, but do not use any spray that contains graphite, since this will cause short circuits and blown fuses. Ask for a spray that is specifically designed to repel water.
  7. treks
    Myth about lifetime transmission fills There has been a lot of talk lately about “lifetime” transmission fills, so in this post I will take a closer look at this issue. Lifetime transmission fills have destroyed thousands of transmissions all over the world, simply because transmission fluid breaks down, just like any other lubricant. More importantly though, a new transmission has a lot of relatively rough wearing surfaces, which means that the metal particles that wear off internal components eventually end up in the fluid, where they are filtered out by the transmission filter. However, many “lifetime” transmissions do not have internal filters any more. Instead, they have fine metal mesh strainers or screens, and the problem with that is the fact that most metal wear particles are small enough to pass straight though the strainer where they can become stuck in the valve body, where they can cause hard and/or erratic shifting, or sometimes a failure to shift at all because they prevent valve shuttles in the valve body from moving freely. That is just one of the many problems with lifetime fills. Another issue is that since many transmissions do not have proper filters, metal wear particles are allowed to circulate freely, despite the fact that almost all transmissions have two more magnets in the oil pan to “capture” floating metal particles. In practice though, there is no guarantee that any magnet will always capture all metal particles, so in effect, the metal in the fluid turns the fluid into a sort of grinding paste that causes premature wear on the clutch packs, bearings, planetary gears, and small moving parts in the valve body. Then there is the problem of additives in the fluid that break down. Many car manufacturers claim that the fluid in their lifetime fills is fully synthetic. That may be true in some cases, but they are only telling you half of the story. The fact is that the word “synthetic” means nothing in itself, since even the best synthetic fluids do not offer enough lubrication on their own. All synthetic lubricants need additives like friction modifiers, anti-foaming agents, and corrosion inhibitors to protect against corrosion and mechanical wear, and there is no single additive that lasts forever. ALL additives break down over time due to the effects of heat, moisture and contact with oxygen, and while this breakdown process takes longer to occur in transmissions than in engines, it does happen, and when it does, it causes problems with shifting because the fluid no longer lubricates the transmission properly. One of the major manufacturers of transmissions, ZF, recommends that the fluid in their products be replaced every 80,000 kms, but car manufacturers have made it almost impossible to replace the fluid. It is certainly possible to replace the fluid when you start experience shifting problems, but the problem is that nobody knows how much fluid most modern transmissions take. Measuring the amount that comes out of a transmission when you remove the oil pan is only a part of the fluid charge- the rest remains behind in the torque converter and in the valve body, so you don’t know how much fluid to put back in. Overfilling a transmission is just as bad as under filling it, which means that unless you have diagnostic equipment with the correct software to measure the temperature of the fluid as you fill the transmission, you could accidentally destroy the transmission by overfilling it. Transmission fluid expands as it heats up, which means that a transmission must be charged with the correct amount of fluid, with the temperature of the fluid determining the exact volume of fluid required. In most cases, this temperature is about 400C, but unless you can measure this temperature accurately, you could end up over filling the transmission as easily as under filling it. A modern car transmission can take anything between 4.5 and 6 litres of fluid, but since you don’t have a dipstick to gauge the level with, you just don’t know how much, or how little fluid to put in the transmission. So is a lifetime transmission fill a bad thing? It is absolutely a bad thing because you cannot service such a transmission, and there is a good chance that the dealers don’t know how to service a malfunctioning transmission with a lifetime fill as well. Moreover, you don’t get a lifetime guarantee to go along with the lifetime fill, so you are basically on your own when the transmission fails if the car is not covered by a warranty- and that is a very bad thing indeed. Bottom line, change the transmission oil and filter every 50,000 to 60,000 kms irrespective of the car manufacturer or dealer advise of lifetime transmission fills. This is my personal advice based on burning my fingers twice by believing in the theory of lifetime transmission fills. Both the time all my internet research and consultation with top mechanics taught me this lesson.
  8. treks
    Hi husain1, Most causes of increased fuel consumption cause slow, gradual increases, for instance sparkplugs that cause progressively increased consumption as they wear away. The same goes for the air filter- it causes a gragula icreasin in fuel consumption as it clogs up over a long period. Sudden increases almost always happen as the result of something that has changed, such as fitting the wrong spark plugs during a service, filling the engine with the wrong oil, or the failure of a sensor or one or more injectors. You don't mention if you had the car serviced just before you noticed the increased consumption- if you did, I suggest you check the spark plugs to see if they are of the correct type, and if the gaps are correct. You also don't say if the car's performance has changed in any way. For instance, does it seem to have more power all of a sudden? Is it more difficult to start when it is hot? Is it idling as smoothly as before? If you can answer "yes" to any of these questions, there is a good chance that one or more injectors may be leaking, or that there is a problem with the mass air flow meter, manifold pressure sensor, or the throttle body. Any one of these sensors can cause a sudden increase in fuel consumption, but they will also affect the car's performance in some way. It may be difficult to start, or it may idle roughly or too high. Broken vacuum lines can also cause a sudden increase in consumption, but it will also affect performance, and especially how the engine runs at idle, and/or how it responds to throttle inputs. Sorry I can't be of more help with the information you provided, but please post more detais of other symptoms so that we can figure out this problem.
  9. treks
    I agree with @nutbolt on this one. The only reason why consumption figures were introduced all over the world was to supply the tax authorities with a means to calculate carbon, or emission taxes. Consumption figures by themselves mean nothing, since it is well known that they are based on tests by manufacturers under supervised conditions. There is no way the consumption figures of any car can match real-world results obtained under real-world driving conditions. It all about the taxes governments can raise, so everybody should actually be glad governments don't base emissions taxes on real-world consumption and emission figures. If they did, we would really be paying through the nose!
  10. treks
    Romel probably means the "carbon brushes" on the voltage regulator.
  11. treks
    Indeed, why do people buy fast cars- especially in Dubai, where the cops have some of the fastest cars on the planet to chase you down with! @taqir- you left out one obvious choice in your poll- what about people who buy fast cars because they appreciate the engineering and technology that go into such a car for their own sake? Moreover, In my opinion, buying a fast car just to come first in illegal street races demonstrates that the buyer of such a car is totally unsuited to the responsibility that comes with owning a fast car.
  12. treks
    It should work, but you need to be within range of a wifi spot.
  13. treks
    Hi Romel, This is strange, but charging system warning lights usually only comes on when the alternator is not generating power. In this case it sounds like the voltage regulator is not working at high RPM, but the warning light usually comes on at low RPM's, when the alternator is not spinning fast enough to generate the full charging current. In most Mazda's, the regulation of charging voltages happens in the ECU. This means you cannot have the alternator tested on its own. You need to take the whole car to a competent workshop for testing. The best thing to do would be to have the car checked for stored fault codes. Messing around with alternators on Mazdas is looking for trouble unless you know exactly what you are looking for, since accidental short circuits during testing can destroy the ECU.
  14. treks
    No problem, glad I could help!
  15. treks
    It is true that the detergents in diesel oil are stronger than those used in petrol engines, but that is because diesel oil detergents have to deal with combustion products that are completely different from those formed in petrol engines. In fact, some combustion products found in diesel engines do not occur in petrol engines at all, so by using diesel oil, you have no detergents that are designed to deal with petrol combustion products. Moreover, the friction modifiers in diesel oil are made differently, and while all friction modifiers contain zinc as the base material, it is the amount of zinc relative to other additives that make friction modifiers effective. It is also true that the total amount of additives in diesel oil is about twice that of petrol oil, so by putting the additional additive load on a petrol engine, you reduce the amount of available base oil by about 50% as well, which can have serious effects on the durability of the engine because there is less oil to carry the additives to where it is needed. One effect of this to raise the oil's temperature, which is very bad for the oil and the engine. While there are more additives, they are of the wrong type and proportions to what petrol engines require, so despite having more additives, you can destroy a petrol engine in less than 1000 kms. This is mainly because the detergents in diesel oil removes the lubricating film of oil on the cylinder walls in a petrol engine. This increases wear because the rings depend on this film both for lubrication, and to form a seal to contain the combustion pressure. Without this film on the cylinder walls, you get increased blowby, increased oil consumption, and a severe loss of compression. There are other problems as well. Diesel oil is generally thicker than petrol oils, which means that the extra effort it takes to pump the oil around the engine can increase the temperature of the oil to the point where additives start to break down. The general rule is that for every ten degrees you raise the oil temperature above the recommended max temperature, you reduce the useful life of the oil by about 50%. Add to this the fact that when the engine is cold, the oil might be too thick to pump around the engine, which means that for the first few minutes of operation, a petrol engine might not have sufficient lubrication to prevent extreme mechanical wear. You are far better off using the correct oil for your engine- using oil designed for diesel engines in a petrol engine is a very bad idea, and it WILL destroy your engine in very short order.
  16. treks
    Hi Calvin, There are only two ways in which a car can lose its oil. On way is if it leaks out, but then you would see the evidence on the ground. The other way is if it burns the oil, in which case you would see smoke from the exhaust, especially if as you say, you filled the oil only a few days ago. I think the most likely explanation here is that the car had been using oil over a long time (all cars use some oil), and since you don't use the car a lot, you probably forgot to check the oil regularly. It is also possible that the garage that changed your oil did not put in enough oil- this happens more often than you might think, so with too little oil, the engine started making strange noises. The fact that the oil light comes on at low RPM's means there is no oil pressure, and this can only happen if there is not enough oil in the engine, or the engine has the wrong oil in it. However, if the garage used the wrong oil, the oil would still be there- it cannot just disappear if there are no oil leaks, so the only logical explanation is that the garage did not put in enough oil. There is just no way that an engine can burn nearly 4 litres of oil in a matter of five days without you, or anybody else noticing the smoke this will give off. It is just not possible, so there is no other explanation than that the garage that changed your oil did not put in enough. I just hope that your engine is not ruined by now, but if it is, the only way to fix the damage is to rebuild, or replace it. Remember in future not to trust a garage when they do anything on your car. If you can, check that they did the work you paid them for.
  17. treks
    Hi Djamel, I am sorry to say, but many Altima's and Sentras have this problem, and not even Nissan seems to know what causes it. The OBD system often records a fault code related to the camshaft position sensor, but sometimes, it also shows fault codes for the crankshaft angle sensor, and at other times, it will show codes for both sensors, or no fault codes at all. In some cases, the problem goes away after replacing one or both of these sensors, but this might not apply to your car, since there seems to be no single cause of the problem. Nissan mechanics sometimes fix the problem by replacing the timing chain, but this is an expensive option, and it does not work in all cases. I know this is not of much help, but the fact is that even the symptoms are not the same for all cars with this problem. Nonetheless, replacing the cam and crank sensors seems to have the longest lasting effect, but the problem can return after a few days, or even the very next day. As I said, there is no single cure for this problem, but if I were you, I would do the following: 1.) Replace the camshaft position sensor, and see if it works. 2.) Replace the crank angle sensor to see if it helps. 3.) If neither replacements have any effect, have the ECU reprogrammed or replaced. This has is known to work in some cases , so it might work for you as well. 4.) You could also try keeping the ignition on for about 30 seconds before trying to crank the engine in the morning. In some cases, the fuel pressure regulator does not work in low temperatures, but by keeping the system pressurised for a period of time seems to make it work again, but this does not always work, or cure the problem permanently. In any case, it is a hassle to wait for 30 seconds before you can start a car, but replacing the fuel pressure regulator is known to have cured a few cases. 5.) In some cases, replacing the oxygen sensor cures the problem, but only when the check engine light has been coming on when the engine is cold. The really bad news is that in more than a few cases, nothing anyody does makes any difference, and even Nissan dealerships sometimes give up, which of course, does not help you at all.This is one of the most difficult problems to fix on any car, and the above solutions may, or may not work for you. Sorry I could not be of more help, but this is one of those issues that does not have a clear cause, or a difinitive solution, but can you keep us posted on what you find? Your solution might be of use to other members here who have the same problem.
  18. treks
    Hi ging, A good way to clean your fabric seats is to use a commercial carpet cleaner, but it is best if you remove the seats from the car. Most carpet cleaners spray a detergent onto the fabric, but they also suck the cleaner out of the fabric at the same time. This keeps the seats reasonably dry, and if you leave them in the sun for a few hours, they should be bone-dry, and ready to be refitted. If the seats are very dirty, you may need to repeat the process, but generally speaking, commercial carpet cleaners do an excellent job of cleaning seats You can also clean the carpets this way, but make sure you do not get the carpets sopping wet. Many cars have wiring running under the carpet and if you use too much liquid, you can get the wiring wet and cause short circuits. Only use enough liquid to dampen the capet. If you can't get hold of a commercial carpet cleaner, you can use any good quality carpet cleaning detergent, and a household vacuum cleaner to suck the foam out of the seats and carpets. This does not work as well as a commercial machine, but it does work. Roof liners are more difficult to clean, and it is often best to remove the liner completely to clean it. Most fabric roof liners can be dry-cleaned, but in my experience, it is often better to replace the roof liner because washing and/or dry cleaning often stretches the liner, meaning that it does not look good when you refit it. It is also a good idea to remove all the trim panels inside the car to suck out the dust that has collected behind them. Also vacuum the area under the dashboard, but take extreme care not to dislodge any wiring. The point is that by getting rid of as much dust as you can, the interior will remain cleaner for longer. As a final step, you can apply a dirt repellent to the seats. There are many brands available, and your local upholstery shops should be able to give you a good product. These products are excellent at preventing stains from setting, and spills are easy to just wipe off the seats if they are treated properly.
  19. treks
    No problem- glad to be of help.
  20. treks
    Hi AIAN, If the vibration only happens between 35-45 km/h, the problem is either related to the driveshaft that is out of balance, or the rear wheels that are out of balance. If the front wheels were out of balance, you would feel the vibration on the steering wheel. However, if the driveshaft itself is damaged, the vibration usually happens all the time, no matter the speed you are driving at. In this case, the problem is more likely to be damaged, worn, or broken joints in the drive shaft. In fact, this is known issue in FJ Cruisers, and Toyota has issued several technical service bulletins about it. If the driveshaft checks out OK, it is amost certain that the problem is caused by a defective torque converter. This is the most common cause of the vibration at low speed, and the only way to fix it is to have the torque converter replaced. You don't need to replace the entire transmission to replace the torque converter, so don't let the mechanic talk you into replacing the transmission. Another problem is the "lifetime" transmission fluid. There is no such thing, and at your mileage, you are already overdue for a fluid replacement. The problem is that many Toyota mechanics don't know how to do it, so you need to look for an independent workshop to do it for you. You may have to have to get the transmission flushed, but be aware that some types of flushing equipment use high pressure to work. This type of equipment can force solid particles in the fluid into the valve body, which can cause permanent damage to the transmission. Find a workshop that uses the transmission's own pump to flush out the old fluid, because this way there is a smaller chance of damaging the transmission. When Toyota speaks of a "lifetime" fill, they are talking about the life of the transmission, not yours. If you cannot replace the fluid, it means you cannot get rid of the wear particles in the transmission, which if you leave it long enough, will eventually clog the filter, starving the pump of fluid, which will definitely ruin the transmission. Besides, the fluid gets dirty, and the additives break down after a few years, which means that at some point, the transmission will no longer be getting the lubrication it needs to work properly. However, when you do replace the transmission fluid, use ONLY the correct fluid and filter, and only get it from the dealers. Anything else is likely to damage the transmission because it may not be specifically formulated for Toyota transmissions. I hope this helps, and please keep us posted since it may help other members as well.
  21. treks
    Hi Raouf, At the mileage you mention, it is not uncommon for wheel bearings to start failing. However, it is imposible to state a cost to repair, since sometimes other components like the stub axle get damaged as well, and if it is a 4WD, the damage can be really serious and expensive to repair. best to check and replace the other wheel bearings as well, before they fail and cause more damage.
  22. treks
    Hi jabbarali, I asssume the car has an automatic transmission? If so, then this kind of problem is almost always caused by dirty transmission fluid that causes some of the moving parts in the valve body to stick, thus causing the jerky shifts. The valve body is the part of the transmission that regulates gearshifts, and it is full of small valve shuttles, ball valves, springs, and other small moving parts that control and regulate the flow of the transmission fluid. So when transmission fluid becomes old, dirty, or contaminated, the fluid breaks down, and causes the formation of sludge, varnishes, and gums that can prevent critical parts from moving freely. This can also happen if the engine has overheated before you bought the car. The transmission fluid is cooled by a seperate circuit in the radiator, so if the engine has overheated, the excessive heat has destroyed the additives in the transmission fluid which can cause sludge to form, and so interfere with, or prevent the movement of critical parts. Your first step must be to check the colour of the fluid. If your transmission has a dipstick, pull it out and check to see if the fluid is dark in colour. If it is dark, the fluid is old. Fluid in good condition must be bright red, transparent, and it must not have a "burnt" smell. Sadly, the bad news is that replacing the fluid will not always fix this kind of problem, since old fluid can cause some parts to stick so much that the only way to free them is to have the transmission taken apart to replace sticking parts. Nevertheless, my advice would be to replace the transmission fluid with the correct grade and type for your car, and to see if this fixes the issue. You must also replace the filter, so I suggest you take your car to a repair shop because you need to remove the oil pan to access the transmission filter. However, do NOT have the transmission flushed with any sort of machine because if there is sludge present, the sludge could be forced into small oil passages where it could block some circuits permanently, and the only way to fix this is to replace the transmission. You may need to replace the fluid a few times to get rid of all the old fluid, but if you do not notice an improvement after the second fluid replacement, a third fluid replacement is a waste of money, and you will have to have the transmission repaired by a specialist repair shop. It is possible to replace the valve body alone, but this is usually just as expensive as replacing a complete transmission, which can cost thousands in any currency. NOTE: If the car jerks all the time while it is in first and second gear, the problem could also be caused by issues in the software that controls the transmission. The only way to confirm this is to have the car diagnosed with suitable diagnostic equipment to extract all the fault codes in the fault memory. I hope this helps you, but replace the fluid first before you do anything else, and please post the results of the fluid replacement. I would like to know how it turns out, and it may help other members with the same or similar problems.
  23. treks
    Hi Robert, I responded to your question yesterday, but the site seems to have swallowed it. Any way, here it is again. Does the wobble go from side to side? Do you feel it mostly on the steering wheel, or does it affect the whole vehicle? Are all the tyres the same size, type, and tread pattern. Are the wheels standard, or oversize? Does the wobble change in any way when you slightly deflate the tyres? Does the vehicle pull to one side when you brake or let go of the steering wheel on a level road? Have you had the propshafts checked for balance? Are there any strange sounds or noises at any time? It will really help me to diagnose the issue if you can answer these questions, thanks.
  24. treks
    Hi Robert, Can you explain the wobble in more detail? Is the wobble from side to side, or up and down, and does it affect the whole vehicle? Do you feel it on the steering wheel? Are there any strange noises or sounds when it starts to wobble? Does the wobble change when you slightly deflate the tyres? Is there a lot of free play in the steering? Does it pull to one side when you brake, or let go of the steering wheel on a level road? Does the wobble get worse or change in any way when you have passengers in the vehicle? Are the tyres brand new. or do you see areas of uneven wear on the tires? Are the tyres all the same size, type, and tread pattern? It will help a lot to diagnose the problem if you can answer these questions.
  25. treks
    Hi ging, Based on your replies to my questions, Intermittent fuel pressure drops is the most likely cause of the problem. It is likely that either the fuel pressure regulator, or the non-return valve in the fuel filter is defective, allowing the fuel pressure to drop to below the level required for the injectors to work. If the presssure regulator sometimes stitck partially open, it will allow the fuel in the system to drain back to the tank, and it would typically take 4-5 revolutions of the engine for the pump to pressurise the system sufficiently for the injectors to work. The fuel pump delivers fuel at a constant rate and pressure, and the job of the pressure regulator is to control the pressure when demand for fuel drops, such as when you decellerate, and the engine speed drops. So even if the pressure regulator is defective, the engine will run normally, since the fuel pressure keeps it open, and more than 98% of the fuel that is delivered to the system is returned to the tank via the regulator. It is entirely possible that when you switch off the engine, the regulator sometimes does not close all way, allowing the residual pressure to drop too low for the injectors to work. This will not trigger a warning light on start-up, since the fuel pump runs when you crank the engine. 2.) The non-return valve in the fuel filter could also be defective, causing exactly the same problem. Other possible causes could include intermittent failure the crank angle sensor, or cam shaft position sensors. This is unlikely though, but not impossible. Thus, my advice would be to first replace the fuel filter, then to have the fuel pressure regulator and its control system checked out if replacing the filter does not solve the problem.
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